Yeah that’s the idea, I will check with a local expert to build a 12s1p 21700 battery!
Bafang m820
- Thread starter Vsoria
- Start date
mike_kelly
E*POWAH Elite
I think jim posted drawings in the lightcarbon 930 thread.
There it is a big connector that uses two screws. Charge/discharge are the biggest pins in both sides
you know where i could find an adapter to use this battery? By adapter I mean, the male connectors that goes to the motor with the xt30 and that goes to the charge port.
I’ve found an old btf014 version but sold without charger nor adapter
in theory, lower current, less heat, with the higher voltage.
It depends which frame you want and if you wanna go custom and if you want a range extender
CEF50. My plan is that the battery should not exceed the weight of 3kg. I buy the housing itself and I will give it to a friend to make me a battery. I need range and weight no more than 3kg. I will add that the engine will be unlocked to speeds above 25 km / h
that's why I'm thinking whether it's better to use 36V or 43V.
that's why I'm thinking whether it's better to use 36V or 43V.
You have a bigger choice of bms with 36v, but you can also easily find 43v bms.
For the speed, I guess you will require a high power, so more amps with 36v. You will probably go for 3 or 4p so it shouldn’t be a problem I guess if you take good cells. Even 10A cells, will give you 3x10x36=1000W+ in 36v, which is more than enough
If you buy a 720W battery, give an empty case to a friend, then your battery will weigh 3 kg. But you need to figure out how to fix it in the frame.
Interesting! Similar to bosch emtb
Guys, I see the stickers with 43V but the serial number starts with 036. What’s yours ? Is it just irrelevant ?
In this thread, it looks like there is consensus, that 36V and 43V are exactly the same, apart from the FW difference. Is there any proof, that this is correct? Usualy, motors for different voltages are wound differently (different stator and rotor - different number of magnetic poles) so with the rated voltage, output speed will be the same. Contoller can be the same, and it can be reflashed with different FW, so it will accept another voltage range. But this doesn't mean, that performance will be identical. For example, with different voltage applied, max power of the motor can be in different cadance ranges, than designed.
So, do we know, that the actual stator and rotor of 36V and 43V motors are the same?
So, do we know, that the actual stator and rotor of 36V and 43V motors are the same?
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temon10
Well-known member
wow 52v battery? so it will work with 48v battery
temon10
Well-known member
so what charger u use?
Hey guys, do you notice a motor rattle, when coasting on rough ground? I did the first run today, without a battery and there was quite an annoying rattling sound present. It was quite pronounced. I would say it is very similar to EP8 rattling noise (based on what I read and saw on youtube). It sounds like a loose ball bearing is hitting something. it is not chain slap and also nothing in my frame rattling. It feels like an empty hollow downtube amplifies the noise and makes it even more annoying.
Any similar experiences?
Any similar experiences?
temon10
Well-known member
It rattle but not as loud as EP8. Still tolerable for me.
@brbr did you find any suitable light?
I am also interested in this. So far, I found this one:
www.bike-discount.de
It has 5.6w, so it should work OK.
It is StVZO compliant, meaning it has a sharp cut off line. It is great for the road riding, but It might not be the best for the trails..
Its big brother, pro-e 140 also has a high beam, but the wattage is to high. IMO, to have something trail worthy, we will have to splice the connection from the battery and use step down DC/DC to lower the voltage.
I am also interested in this. So far, I found this one:
PRO-E 110 E-Bike Front Light
Includes handlebar bracket for 31.8 mm and 35 mm diameter bars, a GoPro-compatible universal adapter and a fork mount for maximum flexibility. Light what you want, where you want. Features - ACID Pro-E 110 E-Bike Front Light LED...
www.bike-discount.de
It is StVZO compliant, meaning it has a sharp cut off line. It is great for the road riding, but It might not be the best for the trails..
Its big brother, pro-e 140 also has a high beam, but the wattage is to high. IMO, to have something trail worthy, we will have to splice the connection from the battery and use step down DC/DC to lower the voltage.
seems nice but only 550 lumen, that's low in full darkness.@brbr did you find any suitable light?
I am also interested in this. So far, I found this one:
It has 5.6w, so it should work OK.PRO-E 110 E-Bike Front Light
Includes handlebar bracket for 31.8 mm and 35 mm diameter bars, a GoPro-compatible universal adapter and a fork mount for maximum flexibility. Light what you want, where you want. Features - ACID Pro-E 110 E-Bike Front Light LED...
It is StVZO compliant, meaning it has a sharp cut off line. It is great for the road riding, but It might not be the best for the trails..
Its big brother, pro-e 140 also has a high beam, but the wattage is to high. IMO, to have something trail worthy, we will have to splice the connection from the battery and use step down DC/DC to lower the voltage.
I think I will go for Magicshine mj906s, not extra expensive but it seems very good
in france the best products are from K-Lamp France
thanks, I've send them a message to know if that would be ok to plug that on the motor
