Fuel EXe Official Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[Gd3fit]

I got my Bike back from my Dealer and got a new Motor now with the width-adjustable Motormounts and the clicking noise is gone
They talked to TQ and they said it was a running change and the early bikes / motors came without the adjusters.
There is no official document or bulletin from Trek / TQ to inform the Shops about that they got the info only after calling them.

On the positive side TQ sent out a new motor within 1-2 days after my dealer contacted them which is quite good. I was only 1 week off the bike

Sorry if you already answered this but when did you purchase your bike or is there a way to find mfg date? I should probably check mine but I don’t think I have any noise down there.

 

[Cell4soul]

I used both batteries, used 90% of #1 in eco/trail mode. Once I put #2 in a was in boost for the rest of the day. AQI of 110 and 8000’ elevation, was not feeling awesome but we got it done!

I rode with a dude on a sweet new transition relay. He was fitter than me and was able to get the entire ride done with the one 430w battery. We concluded the bikes had pretty similar efficiency though.

The drop in the #1 battery is where I had the assist drop & tried restarting

View attachment 121982 View attachment 121983

Awesome ride and thanks for the info. I can do about 40 miles and 5,000’ with both my batteries. I only use mid level and boost.

 

[Gd3fit]

Just a PSA regarding the Sram UDH stop on the seat stay of the carbon frames - this part is very fragile. The UDH says 25nm torque, but I would not suggest that much. Enough where it doesn’t move and maybe hold the udh with your hand while torquing hand tight. The reason I say that is because I gouged my EXe 9.7 this way.
Corporate Trek local replaced it under warranty though - took about a week total.
I did use a torque wrench left hand threaded, but it seems like this was an issue on the Rail as well as I saw a thread on that.

 

[KevinNY]

Just a PSA regarding the Sram UDH stop on the seat stay of the carbon frames - this part is very fragile. The UDH says 25nm torque, but I would not suggest that much. Enough where it doesn’t move and maybe hold the udh with your hand while torquing hand tight. The reason I say that is because I gouged my EXe 9.7 this way.
Corporate Trek local replaced it under warranty though - took about a week total.
I did use a torque wrench left hand threaded, but it seems like this was an issue on the Rail as well as I saw a thread on that.

View attachment 122071 View attachment 122072

I'm curious wow that happened. Was the UDH on the inner side not seated properly when you were tightening to 25nm?

 

[Gd3fit]

I'm curious wow that happened. Was the UDH on the inner side not seated properly when you were tightening to 25nm?

It was seated against that stopper. I just began torquing down slowly (left-handed) and the UDH ended up pushing through the carbon stop (think counter clockwise movement like the left handed thread) before the torque wrench hit the 25nm. I immediately stopped when I saw the UDH move, but it was too late. In hindsight I should have 1) tried holding the UDH while torquing and 2) just torqued by hand as I realize now 25nm is a bit too much.

Trek Rail - Carbon Frame Crash Damage

I suffered a minor disaster this weekend whilst riding up at my local trail centre in Hamsterley Forest. I manged to snag a branch whilst descending and it got pulled up into the derailleur and through the rear wheel. I stopped as quickly as I could but the damage was already done, half a dozen...

www.emtbforums.com

This thread shows some seat stay issues related to the seat stay hanger drop out area on Trek Rail

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Mine is getting a new motor today. A couple months ago I got a couple of error codes. I was able to clear those codes by doing a reset. I brought it into my girlfriends bike shop to get the firmware updated. And her mechanic said that Trek is going to give me a new motor. The bike has always preformed flawlessly. So, I hope I’m not opening up a big can of worms. Her mechanic is very good. But, is there any thing that I should make him aware of, that he may not know, when it comes to changing a motor?

 

[Swingset]

Just a PSA regarding the Sram UDH stop on the seat stay of the carbon frames - this part is very fragile. The UDH says 25nm torque, but I would not suggest that much. Enough where it doesn’t move and maybe hold the udh with your hand while torquing hand tight. The reason I say that is because I gouged my EXe 9.7 this way.
Corporate Trek local replaced it under warranty though - took about a week total.
I did use a torque wrench left hand threaded, but it seems like this was an issue on the Rail as well as I saw a thread on that.

View attachment 122071 View attachment 122072

The joint design has too much going on. Those thin carbon blades look pretty weak. I realize that they have been doing it a long time and its their IP but its not great from a structural standpoint.

 

[Flow81]

Monster post, so hold tight. An update on my 10 month ownership:

So I am on motor #3, all the way in South Africa. I have an early 9.7 (Aug'22), probably one of the 1st batches to come out of the factory. Major notable issues were, 1. Geo mess-up / lower bb than advertised / changing BB height on geo-charts = not-fit-for-mullet; 2. the Float X knock; 3. Screen death by moisture; 4. I am on my 3rd motor

I was already properly scratchy on day 1 when I measured 9 shop bikes and my own and realised the BB was 341 in high instead of the launched 349 BB. I had such great mullet-plans. The lower BB made the bike un-mulletable, as 330mm BB-height is just not safe. I had a big fight with them, and they dismissed me with "tyres stretch, so every bike is different, and I am measuring wrong". Trek didn't acknowledge this and just changed the BB to 341 on the geo charts, no comment.

So I am on a small frame full 29er, 160 cranks, high setting 160mm fork. Luckily, the bike rides really well in 29er.

Trek however, has been great in the warranty process, no questions asked, so thank goodness for that. Maybe its a new strategy? Cut costs by lowering QC levels, have a liberal warranty process, fix when necessary, no questions asked to patch up customer satisfaction. It is a thin line balance though.

Motor 1 had 2 issues: 1. Presented considerable drag in no assist mode or even in lower watts, and 2. was woefully under-measuring my input watts (torque-sensor issue). I would do 300 watts input on my brother's bike, and only 180 on my bike. Trek replaced the motor.
Motor 1 details: Art no 329587.0105, year 2022, SN500006168 (this was the version with no frame-width adjusters)

Motor 2 had same drag issue: Presented considerable drag in no assist mode or even in lower watts. Trek replaced the motor.
Motor 2 details: Art no 329587.0200, year 2022, SN500009433 (with frame-width adjusters)

Motor 3 is much better, with almost no drag, and the torque sensor seems more in-line with what I would expect my outpu to be.
Motor 3 details: Art no 329587.0200, year 2022, SN500009288 (with frame-width adjusters)

Seems that the running hardware updates are documented in the last 4 digits of the "Art No" on the motor. Would be interesting to see if the 2023 motors end in different to my ".0200".

Regarding TQ drag: from Bikeradar Scott Solace Gravel eRide 10 first ride (TQ) review: "What is noticeable is some resistance as you pedal. I didn’t notice this so much when I rode the similarly equipped Scott Lumen".
"This meant I either needed to slow down to benefit from the electric assistance or pedal harder to get above the 26kph limit to stop feeling any resistance from the motor."

I really like how the bike rides, and the TQ system is really perfect for my needs. Just a shame that lots of early buyers were test guinea-pigs helping Trek do prototyping. Crowd-prototyping perhaps? I don't like it. I don't like it one bit

My hypothesis is that the early motors had loads of tolerance variation in internal motor parts, hopefully TQ have sorted the QC process, and are putting out in-spec motors more consistently.

Lastly, lots bike manufacturers are going to TQ. Which is good, because TQ have much larger budgets, incentives and pressure to improve the system. Hopefully they keep supporting us early-adopters and we don't end up on the forgotten landfill!

Here's to the OG's, that are paying the schoolfees

 

[Bom6erm4n]

Sorry if you already answered this but when did you purchase your bike or is there a way to find mfg date? I should probably check mine but I don’t think I have any noise down there.

I bought my bike in Feb 2023 at a small Bikeshop here in Germany. I don't know how long the bike was sitting there before i bought it. They said it was their 2nd or 3rd Fuel Ex-e they sold. With the poor availablity at that time it's likely my bike was one of the first batches.

On page 81 Post #2427 i listed the numbers which were on my original motor.
Art. Nr.: 329587.0104
Year: 2022
SN: 500002556

 

[Balboa]

@Flow81 Good to know that the third motor is OK. I bought mine in September 2022 and did noticeable feel drag without motor assistance. Within a week I hope to have the bike back with a new motor.

I think that the early models have more chance on production problems as this was the first emtb with the TQ motor. Now there are more and hopefully the study the defective motors to solve these problems.

 

[Emailsucks98]

@Flow81 good info. Not directed specifically at you, but I think it's often overlooked that nearly all motors have issues.
My TQ has been a dream compared to my previous shimano-powered Norco.
One of my riding buddies has a Bosch that started smoking and has been in the Trek shop for 2+ weeks waiting on Bosch warranty.
Another friend with a Kenevo is on his 3rd motor.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Mine is getting a new motor today. A couple months ago I got a couple of error codes. I was able to clear those codes by doing a reset. I brought it into my girlfriends bike shop to get the firmware updated. And her mechanic said that Trek is going to give me a new motor. The bike has always preformed flawlessly. So, I hope I’m not opening up a big can of worms. Her mechanic is very good. But, is there any thing that I should make him aware of, that he may not know, when it comes to changing a motor?

I got my bike back yesterday and rode it home for like 4 miles. I swear it has more power in High mode, with the new motor. That’s the only mode I rode it in because it’s up hill all the way home. And when I got home, I realized that the motor settings had reverted back to default. So, I wasn’t even at full power. I’ll take it for a 30 mile single track ride this weekend and see how it goes. The only thing I don’t like about getting a new motor is the odometer and all your settings revert back to default.

 

[kmag]

Hey,
Was out out riding today, after finally getting all of my new parts installed.
And I am experiencing a knocking feeling through the crank arms when I apply high torque. It feels like it is coming from the motor. (Yes, the crank arms are torqued)

I have swapped out the stock e13 carbon cranks (which kept coming loose) with some EEwings. there is a notch on the end of the motor spindle which is suppose to line up with the crank arm. But the eewings notches do not line up at 12/6. (The align 1/7)
I read somewhere about the motor feeling rough if they are not aligned?
I stopped mid ride and restarted the bike, but no luck.
Anyways, has anyone else experienced something similar?

 

[DugT]

Hey,
Was out out riding today, after finally getting all of my new parts installed.
And I am experiencing a knocking feeling through the crank arms when I apply high torque. It feels like it is coming from the motor. (Yes, the crank arms are torqued)

I have swapped out the stock e13 carbon cranks (which kept coming loose) with some EEwings. there is a notch on the end of the motor spindle which is suppose to line up with the crank arm. But the eewings notches do not line up at 12/6. (The align 1/7)
I read somewhere about the motor feeling rough if they are not aligned?
I stopped mid ride and restarted the bike, but no luck.
Anyways, has anyone else experienced something similar?

I think I read in this thread that if the crank arms are misaligned, the motor mechanism will figure it out and smooth out but first it has to be ridden for at least twenty miles.

 

[Mteam]

I think I read in this thread that if the crank arms are misaligned, the motor mechanism will figure it out and smooth out but first it has to be ridden for at least twenty miles.

It doesn't need to be ridden for 20 miles, just a few hundred meters is enough for the motor to work out that the cranks have been installed in different positions

 

[Flow81]

I got my bike back yesterday and rode it home for like 4 miles. I swear it has more power in High mode, with the new motor. That’s the only mode I rode it in because it’s up hill all the way home. And when I got home, I realized that the motor settings had reverted back to default. So, I wasn’t even at full power. I’ll take it for a 30 mile single track ride this weekend and see how it goes. The only thing I don’t like about getting a new motor is the odometer and all your settings revert back to default.

Sounds great! Would be cool to know what your motor serial and art no is? It is on the top of the motor, so to you have to loosen the motor mount bolt to see it.

 

[mitea]

From the printed FW Update Report my LBS gave me I see mine was initially programmed 24.May and my Motor SN is 500005xxxx

Seems TQ already produced lots (50k+) of Motors in the meantime

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Mine is getting a new motor today. A couple months ago I got a couple of error codes. I was able to clear those codes by doing a reset. I brought it into my girlfriends bike shop to get the firmware updated. And her mechanic said that Trek is going to give me a new motor. The bike has always preformed flawlessly. So, I hope I’m not opening up a big can of worms. Her mechanic is very good. But, is there any thing that I should make him aware of, that he may not know, when it comes to changing a motor?

I got my bike back yesterday and rode it home for like 4 miles. I swear it has more power in High mode, with the new motor. That’s the only mode I rode it in because it’s up hill all the way home. And when I got home, I realized that the motor settings had reverted back to default. So, I wasn’t even at full power. I’ll take it for a 30 mile single track ride this weekend and see how it goes. The only thing I don’t like about getting a new motor is the odometer and all your settings revert back to default.

So, I did 23 miles of mostly singe track this morning. My new motor definitely has more power. And, it doesn’t seem to be so dependent on high pedal RPM to provide good power. Best part, on one steep mile long climb that gains about 750’, I used only 1% more of the battery than I usually do. And, with more power, I climbed it in one gear higher than I normally do. So, I’m more than happy with that.

 

[Gd3fit]

Hey all, since it was briefly mentioned before regarding a day pack of tools and things to have with you when riding further from the local trails, I wanted to get some input on what I should have with me in the truck if I’m doing a longer day trip. For example a 3 hour drive to trail head type of thing.

Some have mentioned crank puller. Isis crank tool, trek blue sleeve thingy. I have Oneup tool in the cockpit and a hand pump on bike. I would bring a floor pump with me, the charger and inverter. Change of clothes, any other not so obvious stuff I should consider? It would be a solo trip if that changes things too. Haven’t done something like this before so I figure I’d ask here since the community is great here.

 

[KevinNY]

Hey all, since it was briefly mentioned before regarding a day pack of tools and things to have with you when riding further from the local trails, I wanted to get some input on what I should have with me in the truck if I’m doing a longer day trip. For example a 3 hour drive to trail head type of thing.

Some have mentioned crank puller. Isis crank tool, trek blue sleeve thingy. I have Oneup tool in the cockpit and a hand pump on bike. I would bring a floor pump with me, the charger and inverter. Change of clothes, any other not so obvious stuff I should consider? It would be a solo trip if that changes things too. Haven’t done something like this before so I figure I’d ask here since the community is great here.

You only need the blue sleeve if you also bring a spare chainring (or spider) to swap in case the one on the bike gets damaged. However, the blue sleeve is just a safety measure to not damage the seals but, in a pinch, the sleeve is optional.

Here's some things to keep in mind:
* Safety gear (Helmet, etc.)
* Water, hydration, energy bars, etc. One thing never to neglect is water and nutrition. Don't get stuck on a long trip without it.
* Alcohol to clean up (like rubbing alcohol, not the drinking type, unless you want the drinking type then that's on you. LOL)
* Set of shoes and socks (in case you get soaked)
* Shift cable (unless you have electronic, then spare battery)
* Dropper cable (unless you have electronic, then spare battery)
* Brake pads (or change to new pads before you go if yours is already worn)
* Extra quick links (or new chain)
* Chain lube
* Chain breaker (probably already part of your Oneup tool)
* Set of allen wrenches (or your Oneup tool can suffice in a pinch)
* T25 in case you need to tighten rotor bolts (or your Oneup tool can suffice in a pinch)
* New Tire - or a used tire is better than nothing. I once had a huge slash that was not fixable. Or maybe a tire patch but that won't stick to well unless you clean the spot really good.
* Tire sealant
* 8mm allen in case pedals become loose (happened to me). Normally pedal is torqued to 30+ Nm depending on the crank arms you have. Loose pedals = stripped crank arm threads.
* Shock pump

Good luck with your trip.

 

[Emailsucks98]

@Gd3fit Good tips from @KevinNY

I think this topic is kinda like camp coffee, we all learn through experience what works for us.
My own approach is I don't bring much in the car, but I do check my bike out pretty frequently and I carry most of what I need to get myself out of the woods.

If I had to suggest 2 things, spare masterlinks and presta valve cores are small, inexpensive and there's really no work-arounds when they fail if you're not carrying spares.

As far as checking the bike out:

• At home before every ride: check tire pressure, clean & lube chain, check headset
• Monthly or so: check crank-arm bolts, pedals, axles & rotor bolts for tightness, check brake pads
• Quarterly: check pivots, sag, check tire side lugs
• 6 months: brake bleeds & pads, suspension maintenance if required (<yearly), new tires likely needed

On the bike- I carry

• OneUp EDC tool and 70cc pump. Inside the pump I carry a complete valve stem with core, a valve core tool, bacon strips, extra 5mm & 6mm bolts, 12spd master link & zip ties.
• Tubolito tube stuffed in the battery compartment
• In my pack I carry a Wolfooth 8-bit pack pliers which has another 12spd masterlink, a Lezyne Co2blaster with 2 cartridges and more bacon strips, $10 bill and some dogshit bags.

 

[Mteam]

You only need the blue sleeve if you also bring a spare chainring (or spider) to swap in case the one on the bike gets damaged. However, the blue sleeve is just a safety measure to not damage the seals but, in a pinch, the sleeve is optional.

Here's some things to keep in mind:
* Safety gear (Helmet, etc.)
* Water, hydration, energy bars, etc. One thing never to neglect is water and nutrition. Don't get stuck on a long trip without it.
* Alcohol to clean up (like rubbing alcohol, not the drinking type, unless you want the drinking type then that's on you. LOL)
* Set of shoes and socks (in case you get soaked)
* Shift cable (unless you have electronic, then spare battery)
* Dropper cable (unless you have electronic, then spare battery)
* Brake pads (or change to new pads before you go if yours is already worn)
* Extra quick links (or new chain)
* Chain lube
* Chain breaker (probably already part of your Oneup tool)
* Set of allen wrenches (or your Oneup tool can suffice in a pinch)
* T25 in case you need to tighten rotor bolts (or your Oneup tool can suffice in a pinch)
* New Tire - or a used tire is better than nothing. I once had a huge slash that was not fixable. Or maybe a tire patch but that won't stick to well unless you clean the spot really good.
* Tire sealant
* 8mm allen in case pedals become loose (happened to me). Normally pedal is torqued to 30+ Nm depending on the crank arms you have. Loose pedals = stripped crank arm threads.
* Shock pump

Good luck with your trip.

Also spare derailer hanger

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Guys, this topic isn’t really EXe specific. I’m sure there are other places around here to discuss what should be brought on a ride.

 

[Gd3fit]

Guys, this topic isn’t really EXe specific. I’m sure there are other places around here to discuss what should be brought on a ride.

Sorry didn’t mean it for it to be off topic. Reason I asked is because there were EXe specific things I never considered before due to it being an e-bike and having some known issues like the cranks coming off. I mentioned crank puller thingy and blue sleeve since others said they bring those.

The added information is very helpful though and I have a solid checklist now. Thanks to those that chimed in.

 

[Jack of All Trails]

Hello all. I am looking at getting a new headset for my exe. Maybe Cane Creek or something. Has anyone replaced theirs? If so what did you buy? I am not even sure of the specs I need. lol. Any help or guidance greatly appreciated

 

[Psythepie]

@Jack of All Trails this is what I bought, by far a better product than the original

 

[Swingset]

I9 for me. What's to say? Works. Maybe slight improvement on a creak.

 

[levity]

I9 for me. What's to say? Works. Maybe slight improvement on a creak.

Cane Creak

 

[DugT]

What improves with a better headset?

 

[Emailsucks98]

Wolftooth sells an IS41 top, I've been very happy with their headsets on other bikes.

Meanwhile, a fine weekend....

https://live.staticflickr.com/video/53130762816/088ef07214/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo1MzEzMDc2MjgxNiwiZSI6MTY5MjU4NDQ2NiwicyI6IjZjYWIxMWRiZjE0NDhkYThlN2JjMjBiZjg2MzAwMzRlMjdjZjMzNTEiLCJ2IjoxfQ