Fuel EXe Official Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[Mteam]

Yea thats it, when I start out with assistance off there is no drag. If I turn the system off while on a ride, there us a lot of drag. Strange.

Maybe when the motor is hot there is drag, or something magnetic that causes the suck down. Dunno.

NopeIts not that,its just you feeling the loss of 100w (or whatevr) that the motor was giving. Its not drag,its just you having to pedal harder to make up for the loss of motor assist.

 

[yase]

Yeah what I meant was using what’s already displayed on other pages but make a custom segmented top and bottom instead of the default pages mix and match one top segment and one bottom segment from various pages into one additional page that can be toggled through

Clock, distance travelled and elevation of the ride would be nice

 

[Swingset]

Does anyone know if the big "TREK" logo on the downtube is a removable sticker or is it actually painted on? Mine is covered w frame protector so I can't check.

I was looking at the EXe graphic on the top tube when I wrapped it. It looked pretty baked into the paint and not removable. FWIW.

If anyone can make me a matching 'S' I would love to ride a SEXe. That would drive my wife absolutely nuts.

 

[wizard604]

For those of you who are interested exactly how the harmonic drive motor works here's a video for you. Now you'll be able to 3D print your own motor in case you have a breakdown on the trail

 

[Gd3fit]

My bike was missing the clip for the lower guard to hold it without a battery. LBS ordered it and it came in pretty quickly. I dropped the bike off for the night to get the chainring torqued to 50nm also. They said they'd check the lower shock mount for play if it needs replaced... unsure if this will be done proactively or if they'll only replace the lower bolt when there is an issue.

 

[Moe Ped]

Starting to wonder if Trek are actually incompetent or just badly managed, ordered a spare battery for my exe.

It came in and was then told they need to get the brackets so 3 weeks later yesterday, the brackets come in, but neither the battery or the brackets have the screws included for mounting the brackets, and they (sold separately) are on back order with no eta.

This is an official Trek store.

 

[Mteam]

Starting to wonder if Trek are actually incompetent or just badly managed, ordered a spare battery for my exe.

It came in and was then told they need to get the brackets so 3 weeks later yesterday, the brackets come in, but neither the battery or the brackets have the screws included for mounting the brackets, and they (sold separately) are on back order with no eta.

This is an official Trek store.

my money is on incompetent......

I presume there's nothing special about the screws, so can you just take the screws out of your original battery and go to a hardware shop and buy some similar ones? might be quicker (and undoubtedly cheaper) than waiting for trek.

 

[njatherton]

My bike was missing the clip for the lower guard to hold it without a battery. LBS ordered it and it came in pretty quickly. I dropped the bike off for the night to get the chainring torqued to 50nm also. They said they'd check the lower shock mount for play if it needs replaced... unsure if this will be done proactively or if they'll only replace the lower bolt when there is an issue.

There is an issue with the bottom shock bolt. Apparently Warranty dept are looking into it. And my batteryless clip was missing too. LTBS ordering one for me under warranty.

 

[Gd3fit]

my money is on incompetent......

I presume there's nothing special about the screws, so can you just take the screws out of your original battery and go to a hardware shop and buy some similar ones? might be quicker (and undoubtedly cheaper) than waiting for trek.

Also I believe a backup battery typically does not come with the handle/bracket part, that is sold separately. Unsure if screws are supposed to be

There is an issue with the bottom shock bolt. Apparently Warranty dept are looking into it.

Yeah thanks I mentioned I saw the TSB, but their reply was a little confusing I should have asked for clarification. I think he said it was being ordered from Trek but no ETA. As of now they will check for play, but I guess if there's nothing then we will wait for the replacement lower bolt/bushings to come in and then get it replaced.

 

[njatherton]

Also I believe a backup battery typically does not come with the handle/bracket part, that is sold separately. Unsure if screws are supposed to be

Yeah thanks I mentioned I saw the TSB, but their reply was a little confusing I should have asked for clarification. I think he said it was being ordered from Trek but no ETA. As of now they will check for play, but I guess if there's nothing then we will wait for the replacement lower bolt/bushings to come in and then get it replaced.

The problem with the bolt is that it has too much thread which has a narrower diameter than the body of the bolt. Trek have a bolt which has a much shorter thread/longer body which would fix the problem. Meanwhile, I have put a single layer of electrical tape over the thread that is inside the shock bushing. Seems to work.

 

[Emailsucks98]

ordered a spare battery for my exe.

It came in and was then told they need to get the brackets so 3 weeks later yesterday, the brackets come in, but neither the battery or the brackets have the screws included for mounting the brackets, and they (sold separately) are on back order with no eta.

This is an official Trek store.

The battery comes from TQ (through Trek) but the handles are a separate Trek sourced product. Not saying it makes sense, but I don't get the impression Trek planned on selling a lot of full-power TQ batteries aftermarket. After someone brought it up here, I checked with my local Trek store and they confirmed the handles are sold separately at $10/each. It did take them some research. Happy to hear you got yours. I'm excited about the potential of this bike with two batteries.
I am sure you can get those bolts at your local hardware store for $2 (half the price of "Trek Bolts" ©)

Not sure about your area, but where I live we have Trek Stores where they sell nothing else. I get the impression they get a bit more training.
I actually bought mine on a work trip, from bike shop that caried several brands, not a Trek-only store. They were fine, but I've found a few things with the build I wasn't stoked about. This week, put new brakes on, which involved removing the TQ display to route the hose. I found the M3 fastener on the display was way over-tightened and not lubed at all. I had to slot it with a dremel and remove with a flat head screw driver. replacement screw was .30c.
Point being, I would not trust that shop to touch this bike again. But I also have local mechanics with WC experience. You get what you pay for.

 

[jgusta]

Anybody with any experience with Fox Float X on Fuel Exe that comes stock on 9.7 model? I just got the bike and few rides in and just can’t get the shock to feel right despite using most all the travel with trail riding, all travel with jumps and running between 30-33% sag max. Rear end just feels a bit harsh to me and almost too “sporty” and firm in feel when jamming the descents. Makes bike feel steeper than it is or what I would like it to feel. I replaced the stock Fox Rhythm 150 fork with my Lyrik 160 Ultimate (added air and compression from normal to offset “forward riding rear end” ) from another bike and bike still feels perched forward too much when descending. For reference my other bikes are Rail 170/155 w/coil, Hightower 160/150 and Honzo 120

 

[Swingset]

I have one- little confused though- if you are getting full travel then that's the best you can do for lessening the 'steep' feel. I did stroke mine to 152mm and I feel it helps a bit. I also put a 160mm kit into the Fox 36 and took tokens out.

 

[Flow81]

NopeIts not that,its just you feeling the loss of 100w (or whatevr) that the motor was giving. Its not drag,its just you having to pedal harder to make up for the loss of motor assist.

Not quite. I definitely have drag, like the clutch is engaged.

Also, my motor runs hot, and then cuts the power. Today I climbed in max/boost mode around 900ft vert in 17mins, and the system cut the power to 50% of before, presumably because the motor is too hot. At that point the motor was actually uncomfortably hot to the touch.

Motor does not cool down to “normal” performance capability for the rest of the ride, and I have erratic power delivery for the rest of the ride.

I am thinking I could have something like a dragging clutch creating excessive heat, which forces the thermal management to kick in, and cutting the power. This could obviously have excessive drain on the battery too.

Granted, I ride in the Southern Hemisphere, with temps in 25-30C (80-86F) range. But surely this should have been tested? Anyone having issues with the motor running hot? Or feelings of clutch dragging when you turn the system off whilst coasting on a flat surface on a ride?

 

[KevinNY]

This week, put new brakes on, which involved removing the TQ display to route the hose. I found the M3 fastener on the display was way over-tightened and not lubed at all. I had to slot it with a dremel and remove with a flat head screw driver. replacement screw was .30c.
Point being, I would not trust that shop to touch this bike again. But I also have local mechanics with WC experience. You get what you pay for.

I believe the display is factory installed. You can watch some unboxing videos on YouTube. I'm sure your LBS did not have to install the display.

My display was over tightened as well.

 

[wizard604]

Anybody with any experience with Fox Float X on Fuel Exe that comes stock on 9.7 model? I just got the bike and few rides in and just can’t get the shock to feel right despite using most all the travel with trail riding, all travel with jumps and running between 30-33% sag max. Rear end just feels a bit harsh to me and almost too “sporty” and firm in feel when jamming the descents. Makes bike feel steeper than it is or what I would like it to feel. I replaced the stock Fox Rhythm 150 fork with my Lyrik 160 Ultimate (added air and compression from normal to offset “forward riding rear end” ) from another bike and bike still feels perched forward too much when descending. For reference my other bikes are Rail 170/155 w/coil, Hightower 160/150 and Honzo 120

I'm have the 9.7 with Float X and it feels great to me. Running 28% sag seated. Maybe you're too used to the coil on your other bike. To me it feels pretty plush for an air shock but it will never match a coil. Maybe you can try to let the air out and air it back up in 30psi increments making sure you equalize the positive and negative chambers by compressing the shock several times as you go.

 

[ryandoubleu]

Not quite. I definitely have drag, like the clutch is engaged.

Also, my motor runs hot, and then cuts the power. Today I climbed in max/boost mode around 900ft vert in 17mins, and the system cut the power to 50% of before, presumably because the motor is too hot. At that point the motor was actually uncomfortably hot to the touch.

Motor does not cool down to “normal” performance capability for the rest of the ride, and I have erratic power delivery for the rest of the ride.

I am thinking I could have something like a dragging clutch creating excessive heat, which forces the thermal management to kick in, and cutting the power. This could obviously have excessive drain on the battery too.

Granted, I ride in the Southern Hemisphere, with temps in 25-30C (80-86F) range. But surely this should have been tested? Anyone having issues with the motor running hot? Or feelings of clutch dragging when you turn the system off whilst coasting on a flat surface on a ride?

You should take it in for warranty right away. I ride my bike on high most of the time and on steep elevation which has never resulted in overheating

 

[Emailsucks98]

You should take it in for warranty right away. I ride my bike on high most of the time and on steep elevation which has never resulted in overheating

Today I climbed in max/boost mode around 900ft vert in 17mins, and the system cut the power to 50% of before, presumably because the motor is too hot.

@Flow81 I agree, take it in for warranty, somethings not right. I did 2000' up in 30 minutes today, all at boost/300w. Granted it was cold, and body weights vary, but your bike shouldn't be struggle with a climb like that. I had 45% battery left at the summit.

 

[jgusta]

I have one- little confused though- if you are getting full travel then that's the best you can do for lessening the 'steep' feel. I did stroke mine to 152mm and I feel it helps a bit. I also put a 160mm kit into the Fox 36 and took tokens out.

Thanks, definitely interested in the overstroke for travel, especially 10mm. How do I do that.

Gonna try repressurizing/equalizing the shock in case not done properly by installer

 

[Swingset]

Take the two 2.5mm spacers out. You will need shorter flat head screws though. I recall them being M3.

There is vid on YouTube that shows this.

 

[jgusta]

Take the two 2.5mm spacers out. You will need shorter flat head screws though. I recall them being M3.

There is vid on YouTube that shows this.

Thanks! No change with re-equalizing shock. Dropped to 33% sag (removed 5 psi) but used all travel on short steep trails, no jumps. So volume spacers I need. Thanks for tip! How many 2.5mm spacers internally, 2?

 

[Mteam]

Not quite. I definitely have drag, like the clutch is engaged.

Also, my motor runs hot, and then cuts the power. Today I climbed in max/boost mode around 900ft vert in 17mins, and the system cut the power to 50% of before, presumably because the motor is too hot. At that point the motor was actually uncomfortably hot to the touch.

Motor does not cool down to “normal” performance capability for the rest of the ride, and I have erratic power delivery for the rest of the ride.

I am thinking I could have something like a dragging clutch creating excessive heat, which forces the thermal management to kick in, and cutting the power. This could obviously have excessive drain on the battery too.

Granted, I ride in the Southern Hemisphere, with temps in 25-30C (80-86F) range. But surely this should have been tested? Anyone having issues with the motor running hot? Or feelings of clutch dragging when you turn the system off whilst coasting on a flat surface on a ride?

That does not sound right, take it back.

There is an error code for an overheating motor (according to the manual) , so it might not be an overheat problem you have if you didnt see the error

plus there are more error codes than just the above relating to overheating - check the manual

 

[Trudo]

Hi,

There's a Speedi speed limit hack now available for the Fuel EXe. Does anybody try one ?

SPEEDi - E-Bike Speed Limit Increaser by NLS Components

Shop our mechanical e-bike speed limit increaser. Electric bike speed limiter removal. Designed, manufactured and tested in New Zealand. Compatible with e-bikes from Specialized, Trek, Giant and more. Easy to install and remove. We ship internationally.

nlscomponents.com

 

[jgusta]

I have one- little confused though- if you are getting full travel then that's the best you can do for lessening the 'steep' feel. I did stroke mine to 152mm and I feel it helps a bit. I also put a 160mm kit into the Fox 36 and took tokens out.

You know how many volume spacers come stock in the Float X? Spacer clips or actual Fox spacers in different thickness? Added more air to fork and some HSC to fork that helped minimize that forward sensation some on some steepish DH/FR lines tonight. Used to 200mm dropper on other bikes, so going longer dropper from stock may help too, at least from positional stance sense on DH’s

 

[dannyb]

Maybe a fit issue? Stem length, bar backsweep and rise, seatpost fore/aft, etc. can make a huge difference in that feeling.

 

[jgusta]

Maybe a fit issue? Stem length, bar backsweep and rise, seatpost fore/aft, etc. can make a huge difference in that feeling.

Definitely true. Have pretty much same cockpit set up as on my Rail with exception of 45 stem vs 40 on Rail and 170 vs 200 dropper. Bars same width/sweep with just a tad more rise. Positioned back nicely. Even the front wheel raised a bit on a steep climb tonight. Bike really doesn’t feel steep or forward much at all when climbing, more neutral feeling. Only feels steep when on DH’s, much more than 64.2 degrees as suggested with 160 fork. Added another 5psi to fork tonight and HsC on jumps, steep pitches that helped some. Back end (rear suspension) still feels a bit too stiff and harsh to me with exception of smoother hardpack flow trails. My low back has been stiff as a result and I am used to riding steel hardtail at times. Hopefully shock breaks in more and eventually sit in the travel a little easier/more. Running 33% sag (20mm) with ride gear on and full travel without harsh bottom out yet, so pretty progressive suspension it seems like, more than Rail.

 

[Emailsucks98]

@jgusta I’m not sure what to tell you, but stick with it! I spent most of last season on a 160/170 propain tyee, coil rear. Amazing bike! So I was concerned the I wouldn’t get along with the Fuel, but it’s working out well. It sounds like you’ve checked all the boxes, including bar height- these frames have short head tubes.

Maybe try less sag? <30% R is my preference, then adjusting the front to balance. This bike reminds me of an Evil I once had, where you could get the same sag with +/- 10psi, but it rode so much better set up for support...firm, poppy, progressive.

 

[jgusta]

@jgusta I’m not sure what to tell you, but stick with it! I spent most of last season on a 160/170 propain tyee, coil rear. Amazing bike! So I was concerned the I wouldn’t get along with the Fuel, but it’s working out well. It sounds like you’ve checked all the boxes, including bar height- these frames have short head tubes.

Maybe try less sag? <30% R is my preference, then adjusting the front to balance. This bike reminds me of an Evil I once had, where you could get the same sag with +/- 10psi, but it rode so much better set up for support...firm, poppy, progressive.

Thanks for feedback and shared user experience on bike, encouraging! I will stick with it of course. The bike is just beautiful, gloss grey to black fade and love the e-integration on it. No motor cut out at 20 mph or on DH’s makes for seem less transition of momentum while jamming mellow graded descents at least. Fairly amazed the range of little battery as well. Can get a bit more vert/miles than I typically would on my heavy ass Rail w/625 battery. Riding Fuel EXe in colder temps so likely affecting performance of air shock vs coil on Rail as well.

 

[Frankyspec]

I have the Trek Fuel EXe 9.7 and my other half has the Orbea Rise M10. The Trek Fuel EXe only has 50 Nm / 300 Watts whereas the Rise has 60 Nm+ (this can be changed in settings). I really like the power delivery of the Fuel -- is very natural and engages and disengages very smoothly. The EP8 RS on the Rise isn't as smooth or natural. The EXe in Boost will hang out at 300 watts for a long time in climbs. I'm not sure exactly what the Rise is doing because the on bike display doesn't provide that info but I feel like the Orbea might have slightly more power going up hills but isn't that noticeable. What is noticeable is the Trek seems to provide more low cadence power, smoother roll on and roll off and is SUPER quiet. 99.9% of people I ride with don't even notice my bike is an eMTB. The Rise is noticeably loud and there's no hiding that it's an eMTB.

Both are great bikes! I really like the motor system in the Trek more than the Orbea, but I like the Orbea frame and build (M10 XT) more than my Trek (9.7 Mix of mostly SLX with XT derailleur). To me, the Orbea feels a little more lively and snappy.

Hello,

What is your experience regarding to range differences between both bikes?I am considering the Fuel Exe 9.8 XT vs Rise M10 model 2023…also climbing abilities?

 

[CJaMTB]

I am curious why you would shorten the shock stroke and the travel? I have a medium EXe and I am also 5'6 with about 28 inch inseam, it fits just fine. As for pedal strikes, I came from a bike with a very low BB so this seems like heaven.

It's just an option, if I get the 29" rear wheel causing problems. I don't want to mullet this bike, but ride a lot of steep tech, with rocky drops and such, so reducing rear travel could reduce instances where the rear wheel hits my ass, if that does in fact turn out to be an issue. Plus, I have the skills to ride a shorter travel bike!