If you mean demo as in bringing it home and riding it fully, you are right. I meant just riding it around there area to try it out, base on my experience they were okay with that.
Fuel EXe Official Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
George_KSL
Active member
18,6 KG for that build Cell4Soul? Crazy nice. No corner cutting, solid wheels, solid rear tyre casing, X2 shock, no weight weenie crap anywhere and still such a nice weight. Trek must have made the frame very light since that's about half-kilo less than I would have believed.
My KSL feels fat now :- ). Enjoy the cool build!
My KSL feels fat now :- ). Enjoy the cool build!
TheRed
Member
Got me wondering where I can trim fat. I'm weighing in at 19.5kg/43lbs and running:
E13 carbon bars
E13 plus stem
E13 LG1 Enduro carbon wheels
E13 Grappler Enduro tyres
Ergon SM Enduro saddle
Hope Tech3 E4 brakes
The std TranzX dropper
Std shock
Lyrik Ultimates
Mainly XT groupo
E13 alloy cranks
I wouldn't bother just replacing parts for the sake of only saving weight. If something breaks or wears out then by all means find a lighter replacement,or if you have something better/lighter lying around not being used then fair enough,,but just spending a lot of cash on light parts to save grams is (imo) not worth it.
Having said that,the following would be obvious and cheapish places to start
- you can save a bit by swapping the seatpost, a 31.6 diameter post and a shim could save weight. Maybe 100g to be saved
-lighter cassettes are available,maybe 100g to be saved over an xt cassette.
- tyres could be lighter - but tyres are a very personal choice, could save a lot of weight here,but you will end up compromising on puncture protection.
-cranks, could save 100 ish g by using carbon cranks
The cassette would be the obvious choice from the above when yours wears out,but given cassettes are consumables,would you want a more expensive cassette?
Chasing low weights is an expensive game of diminishing returns.
I have a 9.5 turning up next week, I'm going to swap some parts over with some better stuff I have lying around,but I expect the weight will still come in around 19.5 to 20kg.
Will be standard 9.5 spec except for the following
-fox 38 factory fork and RRP mudguard - heavier than stock
-maxxis assegai exo + on front- heavier than stock
-maxxis dhr ii DD on the rear - heavier than stock
-raceface turbine r stem-lighter than stock
-raceface next r carbon bars -lighter than stock
-sram axs mech-about the same as stock
Will replace the (enormously heavy) cassette with a lighter one (xt or e13 probably)when it has worn out in a few months time
May replace the shock witha float x2 I have spare, if I don't like it, but this will be heavier than stock.
May replace the brakes with magura mt7,but will give the stock brakes a fair go first.
All this should make the bike perform better than stock,but prob no lighter,and will cost nothing because I have all these parts already. Will sell off some of the stock parts and get a bit of money back
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The Reverend
Member
The original Bontrager tyres are Ditchfinder 2000 series. I found them utterly treacherous, especially in the wet.
Went for a trusted DHF / DHR option, exo plus casing and 2.5" front 2.4" rear and it has opened the bike up wonderfully.
I'm running inserts for good measure and they just grip and mob through everything. Very happy!
George_KSL
Active member
It's the wheelset + tyres, your set is 600-700 grams heavier than his setup just because of those two +/-. 100 grams at alloy cranks but that's about it, rest is meaningless. And there's your difference :- ).
If you would add 38/ZEB and X2 you would get close to 20KG just like I expect MTeam's build.
LG1 wheelset + GrapplersEnduro on both ends ("Assegais in DD casing") is rather bomb-proof bikepark worthy setup.
I always forget just how much wheelset + tyres make until I calculate it again. The reason all brands weight their stock builds with some 900 gram paper crap.
The Reverend
Member
I did. It looks ace but with the low stack the bike has coupled with the low bar rise and slightly rolled back set up, I didn't like it.
Went for One Up Components 35mm ride bars an RF Turbine stem.
It's personal for everyone I'm sure.
prolix2
Member
There are a couple of posts about this previously in this forum, around post number 530 or so. There are several videos on YouTube if you search for trek TQ motor noise. Mine occurs After I’ve downshifted and catching cadence up to the speed of the bike, with very minor torque applied, or no torque applied from my peddling, the sound goes away when you’re applying enough torque to activate the motor.
You could easily climb 2,000’ of fire road over 4.5 miles, just not sure about the time
If you were in AZ or wanted to make the trip out, I’d be happy to let you ride mine. We have some awesome trails and great temps right now. I can ride my wife’s Turbo Levo SL. We would ride Hawes in Mesa, AZ. Let me know if you want to make the trip, living in SoCal, you would be really stoked on these trails.
If you were in AZ or wanted to make the trip out, I’d be happy to let you ride mine. We have some awesome trails and great temps right now. I can ride my wife’s Turbo Levo SL. We would ride Hawes in Mesa, AZ. Let me know if you want to make the trip, living in SoCal, you would be really stoked on these trails.
Thanks. I am happy with the weight. I was really hoping to get it down to 40 lbs (18.18 kilos), but I won’t notice the extra 1/2 kilo.
Thanks! I’m in the PNW and absolutely love my rail. But I think I would enjoy the fuel exe more. Especially if I could swap out range extenders if I needed.
That happened to me one time about 3 minutes into a ride. I turned the bike off and on and it worked after that.Hi all,
Got an error code whilst riding today after a short climb: error 4414 batt hw
Looked it up on the TQ error code document (well what do you know, it isn't there)
it can be found here for reference: TQ ERROR CODES
anybody else experienced this error code? I turned the bike off and on again, rode, crashed and it never came back.
I took the bike back to the store the next day. The service department checked all the wire connections for loose wires. They found one wire that might have been loose but not by very much if at all. They were not sure that was the problem.
I’ve put about 120kms on the bike since then with no recurrence.
Thanks for the offer. I would love to if I had the time, but would also prefer to ride it on my familiar trails, which will give me the best comparison. I still like my Rise, but always have the itch to try something new.
The Reverend
Member
This might have been asked previously, but has anyone managed to fit a decent and effective bashguard on the fuel Ex-e?
The chainguide mounting bolts are not ideally placed to make that work and I hate having the chain and chainring exposed like they are...
The chainguide mounting bolts are not ideally placed to make that work and I hate having the chain and chainring exposed like they are...
Hitorogoshi
Active member
Hitorogoshi
Active member
to the dealer unfortunately.... only down side to this platform currently
Kinger
Well-known member
Has anyone tried fitting 5Dev eCranks on their EXe?
Not a fan of the eThirteens. Praxis were alright on my KSL.
Love the 5Dev products.
From what I know the TQ is an isis interface and might work with these:
Not a fan of the eThirteens. Praxis were alright on my KSL.
Love the 5Dev products.
From what I know the TQ is an isis interface and might work with these:
5DEV eCranks - Specialized
Ride with confidence! Introducing 5 Dev's new 7075 Alloy Cranks for the Specialized Levo and Kenevo eBikes. Our exclusive design will greatly reduce crank strikes when climbing through technical rock sections. Carbon ebike Cranks. Replacement eBike Cranks.
ride5dev.com
Fieryavenger
New Member
The carbon E13 cranks have a self extractor. This is straight from Trek’s website and referenced on E13‘s website somewhere in the user manual.
”E*thirteen Crank Arms E*spec Race Carbon, 165mm length, w/Self Extractor Bolt, Black, E*Thirteen Part Number CS4LRM-102”
Strangely, it it’s unclear for the 9.7. Under the 9.7 it lists a ”crank” and ”crank arm”, one with and one without a self extractor. Maybe it depends on which part number you happened to get.
“E*thirteen E*spec Plus, with Self Extractor, 165mm length, Black, E*Thirteen Part Number CS3LPM-110”
”e-Thirteen Crankarm e-MTB e-Spec for Fazua, 55mm Boost Chainline 170mm Arms”
Moe Ped
Well-known member
Finished my build fitted a 160 air shaft and gold Fox decals on the forks, really like this bike it does everything really well.
Below are pictures with the 170 travel (red fox decal) and updated with 160 air shaft (gold fox decal)
Below are pictures with the 170 travel (red fox decal) and updated with 160 air shaft (gold fox decal)
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My size large 9.5 just arrived, stock without pedals it weighs a couple of grams over 20kg.
Interestingly, it came with the shimano deore 4 pot brakes, I was expecting tektro 4 pots, so thats a pleasant surprise. And it also came with a shimano xt derailuer, when the spec sheet says it should come with a deore derailluer.
Anyway, it will stay stock except for
-fox 38 fork
- raceface next r bars
-raceface turbine stem
- sram axs gears
- maxxis assegai exo + & maxxis dhri doubledown tyres
I'll wear the cassette out and replace with something a lot lighter, I may swap the wheels for my dt swiss hx 1501 set.
edit: heres a quick pic with the forks ,bars, and mech fitted, apologies for the scruffy garage
Interestingly, it came with the shimano deore 4 pot brakes, I was expecting tektro 4 pots, so thats a pleasant surprise. And it also came with a shimano xt derailuer, when the spec sheet says it should come with a deore derailluer.
Anyway, it will stay stock except for
-fox 38 fork
- raceface next r bars
-raceface turbine stem
- sram axs gears
- maxxis assegai exo + & maxxis dhri doubledown tyres
I'll wear the cassette out and replace with something a lot lighter, I may swap the wheels for my dt swiss hx 1501 set.
edit: heres a quick pic with the forks ,bars, and mech fitted, apologies for the scruffy garage
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DBSwiss
Member
Hello everyone. I had my Trek Fuel EXe 9.8XT now for 25 days and so far I put about 190 miles on it. I really like the ride feel as it responds pretty much like a normal MTB. I also ride a 2022 Stumpjumper. Of course the weight difference is 12 lbs. but on the trail it seems to disappear. The bike is very well balanced hops very easily due to the short chain stays and is stable due to the weight but also the 2.5” tires. The bike also feels rock solid. I had a chance to ride a Levo SL a few times and to me the EXe feels a lot better. I am 5’7”, 160 and I got a medium. I dropped the fork pressure about 10 psi from the recommended setting which improved the ride. The integrated carbon handle bar is very wide at 820mm and very stiff. I may need to cut or replace that. The motor assist is extremely natural in low and medium settings. The high setting is strange. It seems to come on very strong at first and then cut out. Not sure if that is a software issue Or normal But I could not find a good setting for the high mode. Ride mostly in low and med.
The app is very good but it always takes long time to start up or it doesn’t start at all on my iPhone 13. I stopped using it to record the rides and just use it to set the motor variables. Maybe some early kinks that will improve with the next update.
i would recommend you protect tha paint somehow, before the first ride. I have the Mulsanne Blue which looks awesome but the paint seems to be too hard and chips easily. I rode it a couple times before putting on some helicopter tape on the chain and seat stays and already had a couple chips.
What worries me however is the grinding noise I am hearing now coming from the motor. The same noise that has been described here earlier in this thread (I read through all of it). It is only intermittent now and very difficult to reproduce but it has me worried given some of the stories on here. I also saw that my cranks are the AL cranks and not the carbon ones as spec’d on the 9.8XT version. I even asked the shop when I picked up te bike if the bike had any substitutions due to supply chain issues, and they said no. Not great from Trek. I bought it from a factory store. I checked the major components but not the cranks. Just read about it on the thread here last night and checked them. I really like the bike but am considering returning it within the 30 day period Due to the motor risk and waiting a bit until TQ works out the kinks or check out the Fazua60 system. Dropping the bike off tomorrow To get the motor checked. let’s see.
The app is very good but it always takes long time to start up or it doesn’t start at all on my iPhone 13. I stopped using it to record the rides and just use it to set the motor variables. Maybe some early kinks that will improve with the next update.
i would recommend you protect tha paint somehow, before the first ride. I have the Mulsanne Blue which looks awesome but the paint seems to be too hard and chips easily. I rode it a couple times before putting on some helicopter tape on the chain and seat stays and already had a couple chips.
What worries me however is the grinding noise I am hearing now coming from the motor. The same noise that has been described here earlier in this thread (I read through all of it). It is only intermittent now and very difficult to reproduce but it has me worried given some of the stories on here. I also saw that my cranks are the AL cranks and not the carbon ones as spec’d on the 9.8XT version. I even asked the shop when I picked up te bike if the bike had any substitutions due to supply chain issues, and they said no. Not great from Trek. I bought it from a factory store. I checked the major components but not the cranks. Just read about it on the thread here last night and checked them. I really like the bike but am considering returning it within the 30 day period Due to the motor risk and waiting a bit until TQ works out the kinks or check out the Fazua60 system. Dropping the bike off tomorrow To get the motor checked. let’s see.
prolix2
Member
Perfect post. Matches my observations exactly. I also have a turbo levo SL and your observations are right I think. My grinding noise started at about 30 miles. I’ve had my bike to two dealers, including a company store and they both did the same kinds of updates and firmware etc. but neither has made a difference. The last dealer is supposedly interacting with Trek and TQ to try to get some kind of answers. When I took it to the second dealer to inquire about returning it before the 30 day date, they said they would extend the return time however long it took to make the bike right or to decide that it was not fixable, and I could return it. The first shop said they talked with Trek a lot and their final decision was that it might take 150 miles for the sensors to calibrate. My opinion is that neither trek nor TQ really know what’s going on with these motor sounds, and don’t want to replace the motors unless they really have to, and are hoping that the customer will give up. I now know how to reproduce the grinding sound reliably and would be interested in trying another bike to see if I can do it and whether it’s a universal phenomenon that is so intermittent that people don’t notice it, or whether it’s just a few motors.
rdbowden
Member
I had a thought on the TQ motor grinding noise that has been reported by some owners. What if it is a combination of the type of shock, the settings of the shock, the weight of the rider, the cadence of the rider, the derailleur type, the derailleur cutch setting, the selected gear and the rapid drive 108 hub? Possibly a positive feedback between a slight pedal bob and the TQ internal clutch? Does the TQ have some sort of internal clutch? Trek has never indicated they found anything wrong with a TQ, like excessive wear.
I think one post indicated the shop could reproduce it on a new bike, so that would negate my theory. It would be interesting to see if it only occurs with RockShox Super Deluxe Select or Ultimate shocks. I am not saying there is anything wrong with any of the components, but it is the combination of components, setup and rider is causing the issue. Just google the Tacoma river bridge collapse for example of how things can go wrong when a combination of things happen just the right way.
I think one post indicated the shop could reproduce it on a new bike, so that would negate my theory. It would be interesting to see if it only occurs with RockShox Super Deluxe Select or Ultimate shocks. I am not saying there is anything wrong with any of the components, but it is the combination of components, setup and rider is causing the issue. Just google the Tacoma river bridge collapse for example of how things can go wrong when a combination of things happen just the right way.
Waiting for the same black 9.5, also had a Caterham 7 for 15 years (sadly now sold). Brilliant car
I've owned the car for 20 years now,it doesn't get much use these days, too much traffic, too many speed cameras etc.Waiting for the same black 9.5, also had a Caterham 7 for 15 years (sadly now sold). Brilliant car
mitea
Member
How does that work in general? Do you get the full money back? What will trek do with that bike then? Repair and sell as used bike. Just curios since I'm new to the mtb universe
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