Bafang M500 and M600 motors
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
TCFlowClyde
Active member
I agree 15-20% would have been a nicer, more efficient safety threshold to extend the battery life overall...I'll get myself home, even if I miscalculate my range, the extra 10-15% would be a welcome BMS upgrade. I'll take the risk
thaeber
Well-known member
Dude! 369,8 km/h!!! Thats damned fast buddy!
markvanhaze77
Member
I managed to bust my M600 spider (and chainring). Any ideas which ones I can get as a replacement? The Yamaha ones seem similar but maybe somebody has experience with this before I end up ordering it on Aliexpress and wait 3 weeks.
Puschtrale
Active member
Could you find out if the controller works with standart display of the m500?Does anyone happen to have any info on the pinout and signals from the DP C240 B/W keypad? Not looking to replace the display as it’s fine ((and IMO most other Bafang displays kind of suck sitting way over the bars..), but the goofy shape of the keypad is annoying. Would love to replace it with something less prone to getting ripped off the bars, something like this ideally, but not sure if the keypad itself is actually ‘smart’/sending CAN commands or is simple gnd/5v etc. Anyone looked into this before?
En AliExpress la venden. € 18,20 20%de DESCUENTO | Adaptador de platos y bielas para motor central Bafang, accesorio para Motor de 32T, 34T, 36T, 38T, 40T, M500/M600/G520/G521Torque, 104
Does anyone happen to have any info on the pinout and signals from the DP C240 B/W keypad? Not looking to replace the display as it’s fine ((and IMO most other Bafang displays kind of suck sitting way over the bars..), but the goofy shape of the keypad is annoying. Would love to replace it with something less prone to getting ripped off the bars, something like this ideally, but not sure if the keypad itself is actually ‘smart’/sending CAN commands or is simple gnd/5v etc. Anyone looked into this before?
Looks like it's documented here:
Bafang_M500_M600/CANBUS at main · OpenSourceEBike/Bafang_M500_M600
Contribute to OpenSourceEBike/Bafang_M500_M600 development by creating an account on GitHub.
github.com
With the pertinent bit being this section near the top:
Code:
HIGO-B5-Female:
────────┐
/ 1 5 │
│ 2 │
\ 3 4 │
────────┘
1 Orange: VCC
2 White : CL
3 Brown : P+
4 Green : CH
5 Black : GND
Bit Rate 250 kBit/s
Level matching:
L9 L5 L3
0 0 0 : FF FF
1-2 1 : 40 1F
3-4 2 1 : 2C 1A
5-6 3 2 : EC 13
7-8 4 : AC 0D
9 5 3 : 8C 0AIf I'm reading that correctly then it suggests that it is sending canbus commands, rather than just simple switching, i.e. there's a specifc code being sent for each level, rather than just an 'up' or 'down' switch. Can't quite get my head round how that works for a 9 level config but the 5 level to 3 level mapping makes sense to me.
I'd love a different pad, as the standard DPC240 pad unit just feels too fat and clunky to me, and I can't switch assistance levels for sudden climbs as quickly as I'd like.
EDIT: Pah, I spent ages formatting that little table, and it gets messed up as soon as I post!
captainhightop
Active member
I've not taken mine apart, but just because the comms back from the head unit to the controller in the drive is CANBUS, doesn't mean you can't use a different switch to the HMI/screen.Looks like it's documented here:
Bafang_M500_M600/CANBUS at main · OpenSourceEBike/Bafang_M500_M600
Contribute to OpenSourceEBike/Bafang_M500_M600 development by creating an account on GitHub.
With the pertinent bit being this section near the top:
Code:HIGO-B5-Female: ────────┐ / 1 5 │ │ 2 │ \ 3 4 │ ────────┘ 1 Orange: VCC 2 White : CL 3 Brown : P+ 4 Green : CH 5 Black : GND Bit Rate 250 kBit/s Level matching: L9 L5 L3 0 0 0 : FF FF 1-2 1 : 40 1F 3-4 2 1 : 2C 1A 5-6 3 2 : EC 13 7-8 4 : AC 0D 9 5 3 : 8C 0A
If I'm reading that correctly then it suggests that it is sending canbus commands, rather than just simple switching, i.e. there's a specifc code being sent for each level, rather than just an 'up' or 'down' switch. Can't quite get my head round how that works for a 9 level config but the 5 level to 3 level mapping makes sense to me.
I'd love a different pad, as the standard DPC240 pad unit just feels too fat and clunky to me, and I can't switch assistance levels for sudden climbs as quickly as I'd like.
EDIT: Pah, I spent ages formatting that little table, and it gets messed up as soon as I post!
Does the github repo have the wiring from the switch to the display too (the purple one)? It's a six pin connector, and there are 3 buttons. So could we use any 3 button individually switched controller? It all depends on how those switches work, are they basic digital inputs or some kind of resistor based network where each combination of switches gives a different resistance?
The documentation for the CA Slim aux input has a lot of info, I've attached it to this post so you can have a look.
I certainly agree that the bafang one is very vague though. I'm using the DP160 on my E10:
It is quite tall and the clamp breaks easily (I've 3D printed a hacky replacement for it). The whole display is a rocker switch, so it's very easy to press however.
On a side note, I've got a couple of ESP32 modules with onboard CANBUS that I was toying with the idea of using to make a headless type HMI with just some switches on the bars, but not got around to it yet (too many projects!). As the CA switch seems to work on voltage threshold (not discrete digital inputs), it would easy to use without modification. I'm not totally sure how the On/Off works on the controller either unless it's the same as the BBSXX where you just short a connection.
Alternative switch (a bit spendy though and not sure if it would be adaptable):
Might be some useful details here on how it's wired:
Creo Remote Control DIY
Hi everyone, I was able to get this working and put a test ride on it. Everything works as expected. The remote (Specialized PN S194200007) let's you run up "+" the modes 0 (no assist), 1, 2, 3 and back down again with the "-". Also intact is the Turbo button at the top which takes you from any...
electricbikereview.com
Last edited:
I've not taken mine apart, but just because the comms back from the head unit to the controller in the drive is CANBUS, doesn't mean you can't use a different switch to the HMI/screen.
Does the github repo have the wiring from the switch to the display too (the purple one)? It's a six pin connector, and there are 3 buttons. So could we use any 3 button individually switched controller? It all depends on how those switches work, are they basic digital inputs or some kind of resistor based network where each combination of switches gives a different resistance?
The documentation for the CA Slim aux input has a lot of info, I've attached it to this post so you can have a look.
I certainly agree that the bafang one is very vague though. I'm using the DP160 on my E10:
View attachment 84067
It is quite tall and the clamp breaks easily (I've 3D printed a hacky replacement for it). The whole display is a rocker switch, so it's very easy to press however.
On a side note, I've got a couple of ESP32 modules with onboard CANBUS that I was toying with the idea of using to make a headless type HMI with just some switches on the bars, but not got around to it yet (too many projects!). As the CA switch seems to work on voltage threshold (not discrete digital inputs), it would easy to use without modification. I'm not totally sure how the On/Off works on the controller either unless it's the same as the BBSXX where you just short a connection.
View attachment 84065
Alternative switch (a bit spendy though and not sure if it would be adaptable):
View attachment 84068
Might be some useful details here on how it's wired:
Creo Remote Control DIY
Hi everyone, I was able to get this working and put a test ride on it. Everything works as expected. The remote (Specialized PN S194200007) let's you run up "+" the modes 0 (no assist), 1, 2, 3 and back down again with the "-". Also intact is the Turbo button at the top which takes you from any...
I assumed the diagram above was for the purple connector. The shape is correct, as is the number of pins. Maybe I'd assumed poorly though!
Is the DP160 just wired to the green connector?
captainhightop
Active member
Yes it just goes straight into the green connector (on the main bus cable).
I think the green is a HIGO B5 and purple is a HIGO B6
captainhightop
Active member
Okay, so I was curious and tried to work out what the connections were at the switch end (purple 6 way HIGO)
All I did was test for continuity when each switch was pushed and this is what I got. I suppose the next step would be to try this with a 6 way HIGO into a breadboard and some switches. I don't fancy cutting the cable up on my only spare HMI though, so will have to order some connectors. If it is as I suspect just individual digital inputs any 3 switch cluster could be used with the correct wiring. I'm not sure what's going on with pins 1 and 2 linked together though.
Excuse the crappy schematic as it's the first time I've used KiCAD (planning on learning it though).
All I did was test for continuity when each switch was pushed and this is what I got. I suppose the next step would be to try this with a 6 way HIGO into a breadboard and some switches. I don't fancy cutting the cable up on my only spare HMI though, so will have to order some connectors. If it is as I suspect just individual digital inputs any 3 switch cluster could be used with the correct wiring. I'm not sure what's going on with pins 1 and 2 linked together though.
Excuse the crappy schematic as it's the first time I've used KiCAD (planning on learning it though).
Huh! Good work!
So I'm guessing this means that whatever hangs off the purple connector is just a trio of simple switches, and that whatever hangs off the green connector is what's responsible for translating those switch inputs into canbus commands. So as long as we've got a display with a purple connector input, we can hang pretty much whatever we like off it.
This plus the current activity that's happening over at Endless Sphere suggests we're on the brink of some pretty interesting developments in M500/M600 world!
thaeber
Well-known member
Maybe worth to wait for this?
That's what I (and I think @captainhightop ) already have. I'm not a fan of that remote and the screen is really crap in sunshine, not to mention that the underbar nature of the clamp has always felt a bit weird to me. I don't hate it, but I do feel like it could be better.
@thaeber that looks neat, but I still think that the buttons are in the wrong orientation, i.e. they should be horizontally placed rather than vertically. It's a bit like underbar dropper levers vs those weird ones that sit around the bar, with the latter being ergonomically rather awkward. Do we have any idea how much that's likely to cost?
I might have to do a bit of CAD to mockup (and 3d print and try out) some possible button layouts, though I can't help but feel that accomodating a brake lever, a dropper lever and 3 buttons might be rather challenging and I'm really not sure that I'm clever enough to work out how to do it!
everything has long been invented, you just need to copy the best:
Giant Reign E+ 2022
That’s perfection.
Waynemarlow
E*POWAH Master
Yup the whole Giant setup is really cool, even the App seems to work well.
captainhightop
Active member
That is a very nice design, I can print TPU and PLA/ASA/PETG easily, so if I can find small enough reliable switches, I may have a chance at pulling something like this off (assuming my assumptions regarding the individual nature of the switches are true).
Any recommendations for low profile microswitches? Maybe harvesting some from old nintendo switch remotes that my kids have destroyed?
Don’t know if the giant switch is available and not to expensive. Maybe we can use that one and just adapt the wiringloom.
Yeah, that's really cool. Possibly a little wide for my tastes, but that sort of low profile design is perfect.
I'd have thought we'd want to use something like this:
High IP rating and relatively large. Your idea of canibalising a game controller is probably a good, if expensive, one!
Waynemarlow
E*POWAH Master
We tried one at a Giant Dealer and you need the small raised bit to be that length as its more of a push and pull rather than a push down on a button, for your gloved finger to really feel the raised section. Really nice setup and the bikes themselves are equally as well thought out.
captainhightop
Active member
I've got a few of those in my electronics box, I'll be using them to test if I can simply switch those signals as the investigation seems to suggest.I'd have thought we'd want to use something like this:
High IP rating and relatively large. Your idea of canibalising a game controller is probably a good, if expensive, one!
Need to order the HIGO first though:
Oh, so it sort of rotates around the bar, like a really short throw throttle?
I've got a few of those in my electronics box, I'll be using them to test if I can simply switch those signals as the investigation seems to suggest.
Need to order the HIGO first though:
Looks like this listing might have them also:
1.66￡ |Mini J Signal Connector Cable for Bafang M500 M600 Mid Motor PAS Sensor & Display & Light Waterproof Line|Electric Bicycle Accessories| - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
www.aliexpress.com
captainhightop
Active member
Good call, I was looking for that link, but couldn't find it in my history
Waynemarlow
E*POWAH Master
No there's three buttons there by memory, just the outer two you almost had to drag the button to make it contact.
captainhightop
Active member
Ordered 2 lots of the 6 pin and 2 lots of the 5 pin as I also want to play around with my CANBUS modules at some point (from AliExpress)
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