were you able to do this without taking the cranks/chainring off?
Fuel EXe Official Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
gmoss
New Member
I wrapped mine without taking the cranks off. I use Invisiframe.
Emailsucks98
Active member
I’ve gotten my EXe back with the motor replaced. New motor has quite a bit of resistance when back-pedaling, anyone else experienced this? It’s fine when pedaling forward, working well otherwise.
Canyon Shawn
Active member
More likely, it’s the rear hub.
Shouldn't be the rearhub, because the pedals should just rotate backwards without turning the chain ring at all, so the hub shouldn't come into it.
I'd ride it and see if it frees up with a bit more use
njatherton
Member
Cranks over-torqued??
Emailsucks98
Active member
It's definitely the motor, resistance is there with the chain removed. Pedals forward great.
@njatherton, I'll check the crankarms.
@Mteam, picked it up thursday and just had 3 great days of riding on it, so yeah I think I'll just roll with it....
Treksurfer
Member
I mainly only drive with the range extender and have recently been getting the following error message more and more often: comm err 0465 batt. The tq error code table says: "Restart the system. Contact your TQ dealer if the error still occurs".
Has anyone in this group had this problem?
Has anyone in this group had this problem?
Scarboroguy
New Member
I'm wondering the same. self extracting? Anyone?
The crank arms?
They are ISIS and you need an ISIS crankarm puller to remove them. Something like the Park Tool CCP-44 will work. If you need to remove the chainring, you need an ISIS BB tool like the Park BBT-22. You also need the blue shield to protect the lockring seal from the BB if you are removing/installing the lockring.
Scarboroguy
New Member
OK got it. Appreciate the info.
Unscrew the display, and lift it out of the frame, underneath you'll find two cables coming from the display, one goes to the remote, just unplug it from here and then remove the remote from the bike.
wheelsx2
New Member
I switched to e*thirteen Helix Race E*spec 160mm. One benefit of getting new crank arms was that they have self extracting bolts.
Went to the 160mm, stayed for the easier on/off.
gmoss
New Member
Anyone have issue with the Trek app not opening without phone signal? One ride area has no service and the app won't go past the opening screen. Can't track my ride.
Whelp, nevermind, I did another search and found the answer. I thought I broke something but turns out that is how it works.
gmoss
New Member
Yep, had to adapt to a different method to clean and lube my chain. LOL
DBSwiss
Member
had an error code 49E indicating a torque sensor failure when I tried to start a ride. The bike shop updated the firmware on the motor and the issue went away. On this latest firmware version, the bike has never felt better. Much smoother power delivery. I wonder if there was an issue with the software related to the torque measurement.
latest software version is 1.6.157. Before, I was on 1.4.132 since last October.
latest software version is 1.6.157. Before, I was on 1.4.132 since last October.
Integralnz
New Member
Hey Fuel Exe Mega Fans,
Long time reader and finally bought an EXE 9.7 second hand here in NZ. $6000NZD or about $3500USD or 2800GBP, so I have some budget to spend on modifications. I live in Queenstown NZ and ride all of the local gravity trails and throw in some longer trail rides as well. This will be my '1 Bike' apart from a hardtail that gets used when I travel by plane for work. The bike is totally stock and has only done 344km. I have ridden it a few times and am ready to start tinkering. I prefer to make changes 1 at a time so I'm reaching out to owners who have modified their own bikes and am seeking advice on where to start. Here are the modifications that i am considering and some rough NZD values.
1, Increase fork travel from 150mm-160 mm. $100 air shaft
2, Increase rear travel from 140mm-152mm. No cost to remove spacers
3, Install LSC adjuster on rear shock. $80
4, Fit 27.5 wheel to rear 'Mullet style' $100 second hand wheel
5, Replace stock tires with something beefier $100/end
6, Replace 150mm dropper with 180mm OneUp $200 on special in NZ (V2)
7, Fit 155mm cranks to keep clearance with mullet set up $???
If anybody would care to share their advice and put these upgrade options in order of priority according to their own opinion or experience I would be stoked to receive advice.
Thanks in advance!
Long time reader and finally bought an EXE 9.7 second hand here in NZ. $6000NZD or about $3500USD or 2800GBP, so I have some budget to spend on modifications. I live in Queenstown NZ and ride all of the local gravity trails and throw in some longer trail rides as well. This will be my '1 Bike' apart from a hardtail that gets used when I travel by plane for work. The bike is totally stock and has only done 344km. I have ridden it a few times and am ready to start tinkering. I prefer to make changes 1 at a time so I'm reaching out to owners who have modified their own bikes and am seeking advice on where to start. Here are the modifications that i am considering and some rough NZD values.
1, Increase fork travel from 150mm-160 mm. $100 air shaft
2, Increase rear travel from 140mm-152mm. No cost to remove spacers
3, Install LSC adjuster on rear shock. $80
4, Fit 27.5 wheel to rear 'Mullet style' $100 second hand wheel
5, Replace stock tires with something beefier $100/end
6, Replace 150mm dropper with 180mm OneUp $200 on special in NZ (V2)
7, Fit 155mm cranks to keep clearance with mullet set up $???
If anybody would care to share their advice and put these upgrade options in order of priority according to their own opinion or experience I would be stoked to receive advice.
Thanks in advance!
DBSwiss
Member
I am having the same issues. It comes lose over time and needs to tightened again. I decided to just buy the tools needed and start doing it myself.
Canyon Shawn
Active member
Forget about the LSC adjuster on the rear shock. I don’t care what anyone says, it offers so little adjustment that it’s not even perceivable. And I am an extra pro motocrosser and I know how to tune suspension. If you want a really good shock pick up a 2024 Fox X2 air shock. One click of LSC in that shock is noticeable. You can pick one up pretty cheap because Fox is replacing, under warranty the previous version with the new version. And people are selling them. I bought mine for $200USD brand new. They are totally redesigned on the inside and they are now a very reliable shock. I love mine and I cannot find a fault with it. Just set it at the recommended settings for the psi you need to get 30%. That is a very good starting point and the only change I made was add a click of LSC. As with any new shock, make sure that you chase 30% sag as the shock breaks in. For the fork, you can install a Marzocchi Z1 coil kit in the Fox Rhythm 36, assuming that you guys got that fork in New Zealand with the 9.7. When choosing the correct spring, make sure you calculate in the extra weight of the bike, compared to a non-bike. At 180 pounds ready to ride, I chose the green spring. That weight is at the very low end of the green spring. But, it works perfectly for me because the EXe is around 8 pounds heavier than a regular trail bike. I set it up at 160mm. That suspension combination is amazing! I found the stock suspension to be very out of balance, with way too much weight on the front end. What’s nice about the coil kit is you can adjust some of that out with the preload adjuster. A Oneup carbon fiber handlebar is also a great choice for smoothing things out.
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Emailsucks98
Active member
@Integrainz, that's a good list. I would do the tires & fork airshaft first. Of course if you eventually go mullet, you'll need another rear tire then- but the stock tires really hold this bike back. I would do the dropper soon after that (re-use the stock cable housing). Get a new remote at the same time, and see if you can go more than 180mm. I'm running a 210.
Shorter cranks mainly benefit people living in areas with rocky/tech trails. It wasn't a big improvement for me (other than that they didn't come loose frequently like the stock cranks did).
Shorter cranks mainly benefit people living in areas with rocky/tech trails. It wasn't a big improvement for me (other than that they didn't come loose frequently like the stock cranks did).
gmoss
New Member
I would move to 160 fork before changing cranks. This pedal strike thing is new to me and I plan on moving to a 160 fork before trying anything else. But, you may be right, mullet may bring you back down a little. Still, would do the ithers first. Tires are always a personal thing. I have swapped out everything but shock and drivetrain on mine. It was harsh in stock form, no fun at all.
wheelsx2
New Member
+1 on coil option. Not only do you get coil, you get adjustability from 150-170.
At a minimum though, check your stock fork for the number of tokens. Mine came with 3 installed and just removing them made it much better.
Regarding the Float X. If you feel the shock has too much compression damping, you can pop the plastic cover off and turn the adjuster with needle nose pliers. Given how rarely you need to change this, once set, this is easier then getting the knob.
Also regarding the Float X, I was having trouble getting decent travel even though sag was way 30%. I removed the 1 installed volume reducer and that helped but still very limited. Like 80% or less travel used, no matter what I hit. For me, removing one of the two 2.5mm stroke shims pretty much solved the problem. Now I am using closer to 90% of travel and it feels much more plush and similar to the coil sprung front fork. I technically have 146mm travel rear, but I never come close to using that.
At a minimum though, check your stock fork for the number of tokens. Mine came with 3 installed and just removing them made it much better.
Regarding the Float X. If you feel the shock has too much compression damping, you can pop the plastic cover off and turn the adjuster with needle nose pliers. Given how rarely you need to change this, once set, this is easier then getting the knob.
Also regarding the Float X, I was having trouble getting decent travel even though sag was way 30%. I removed the 1 installed volume reducer and that helped but still very limited. Like 80% or less travel used, no matter what I hit. For me, removing one of the two 2.5mm stroke shims pretty much solved the problem. Now I am using closer to 90% of travel and it feels much more plush and similar to the coil sprung front fork. I technically have 146mm travel rear, but I never come close to using that.
Scarboroguy
New Member
Welcome to the site. Now head to the nearest police station and turn yourself in for Grand Larceny.
Canyon Shawn
Active member
I moved to a 160mm fork and it didn’t help with the pedal strikes. I have 5 broken ribs to prove it. The best thing you can do is just be aware of it. I was being lazy. I don’t like shorter cranks, so I’m not going to go that route.
gmoss
New Member
It won't hurt. Haha, and I will move to the high setting. I have been pretty good at watching my feet coming from a woods racing background, but this bike is a good bit lower than I am used to. Plus, I don't think this shock holds the bike up as well as it should. Will be moving to an X2 as soon as I can.
Canyon Shawn
Active member
The X2 is a good move. The LSC adjuster does help hold the rear up in its travel.
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