Fuel EXe Official Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[njatherton]

Would something like an adjustable Hiplock wrapped around bottom work?

 

[DancingWithMyself]

Mine went quiet at about 4-500kms.

It wasJust the lowest 2 gears.
At First i thought the chainline is Off.
But the noises disappeared at one point After the chainring has worn in.

Never experienced such thing on other bikes. And indeed, the Chainline is strange on the EX-e.

With 12 gears the chain should be straight at Gear 6. But in fact the chain runs straight at gear 4.

Thats imo the reason for the Grind in process thats needed before its getting quiet.

"Strange" is being very kind. I'd argue the chainline is off at 55mm, unless you are running Transition. If you've got a spider, you can space it back to 53mm with chainring spacers and different chainring bolts and see if that helps.

You could also try a Wolftooth ring instead of the stock.

If you're going to fool with spacing, I'd look at running a bash ring as well. Just have to remove the outer portion of the chain guide, but the bash ring will mostly serve that purpose. If you want to go down this route, you want 2mm chainring spacers and, I think, problem solvers 10mm double chainring with guard bolts. Thankfully, they are dual hex. Have some showing up soon and will report back.

Same bash ring works for 32 and 34 tooth, and I'd think about whether you want to jump to 34T. I didn't, but am curious.

I don't have the the noise issue and 2mm probably won't make that much difference, but needlessly making the chainline even worse in larger cogs to accommodate Transmission just irritates me.

 

[DancingWithMyself]

Hi all, if you see the attached photo, there's what seems to be a bit missing from the crank bolt from the chain ring side of the exe, maybe also a crack? I can't remember what it's meant to look like. Anyone else had this issue or can provide guidance? thank you

View attachment 120940

Plastic on mine cracked, but not near that bad. More of a hairline fracture. Thing still intact. E*13 confirms it's cosmetic.

At least for the very first EXe's that arrived last Sept/Oct, something weird is going on with the cranks and bolts. I tried to source a replacement because I'm OCD like that and I was thinking it might create some creaking.

If you went to E*13 website, bolts that looked like they should fit were CSS30-113. But they don't fit. Pitch is correct and they screw in, but plastic around bolt head too large and they don't sit flush. E*13 confirmed these were the correct bolts as far as they were concerned. This was about 4-5 months ago. Haven't checked or inquired since then.

Called Trek about an app issue about a week ago. Asked them about the bolts. They said no bolts available, and that if there was an issue, the solution would be to get with your dealer and you'd likely get a new crankset!?!?

Love Trek for giving us this amazing bike and super grateful they abandoned stupid proprietary shit like reactiv and knock block, but it seems like they still snuck something stupid in under the radar . . .

 

[DancingWithMyself]

--- EXe Battery security & theft ---

Has anyone considered replacing the m5x0.8 8mm oem battery frame screw (one or both) with more secure screws such as torx or torx with pin in the middle?

If I stop to eat or at a store, I secure my bike to my vehicle using a robust chain/lock to the hitch but the $800 battery only takes a 4mm hex (which is in the top tube tool) and 2 minutes to remove.

Battery not all that much different from a nice shock, fork, pair of brakes, etc. Can run a cable through the wheels, but all these components and more are sitting ducks.

Whenever I start worrying about things like this, I remember the wisest thing I've ever heard about bike theft: Pretty much any lock will stop an opportunistic thief, but no lock will stop a professional thief.

That said, I definitely use a little strap lock like the one pictured whenever I'm doing something like leaving a bike in a rack at a bike park for restroom, food, etc. They are super hand for things like that. Mine's a combo lock. When I was Killington last year, walked past as some guy realized somebody had walked off with this bike.

 

[farang]

Battery not all that much different from a nice shock, fork, pair of brakes, etc. Can run a cable through the wheels, but all these components and more are sitting ducks.

Whenever I start worrying about things like this, I remember the wisest thing I've ever heard about bike theft: Pretty much any lock will stop an opportunistic thief, but no lock will stop a professional thief.

That said, I definitely use a little strap lock like the one pictured whenever I'm doing something like leaving a bike in a rack at a bike park for restroom, food, etc. They are super hand for things like that. Mine's a combo lock. When I was Killington last year, walked past as some guy realized somebody had walked off with this bike.

Good points, someone could easily lift a shock, axs derailleur, or dropper post with ease as well. I went ahead and bought m6 x20mm tamper proof screws for $12 just as peace of mind.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

What are the headset specs on our EXes, both upper and lower? Thanks!

 

[njatherton]

Fuel EXe - Official Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

I picked up my baja yellow 9.8 XT ‘M’ today – 18.6kg out of the box & tubeless (incl. see-thru frisbee on rear wheel). Ordered in December, arrived at LBS roughly 2 months late. It is equipped as specified online at time of order, except for Charger 3 on the Lyrik. Also came with the...

www.emtbforums.com

 

[njatherton]

What are the headset specs on our EXes, both upper and lower? Thanks!

Fuel EXe - Official Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

I picked up my baja yellow 9.8 XT ‘M’ today – 18.6kg out of the box & tubeless (incl. see-thru frisbee on rear wheel). Ordered in December, arrived at LBS roughly 2 months late. It is equipped as specified online at time of order, except for Charger 3 on the Lyrik. Also came with the...

www.emtbforums.com

 

[Canyon Shawn]

^ Thanks!

 

[njatherton]

--- EXe Battery security & theft ---

Has anyone considered replacing the m5x0.8 8mm oem battery frame screw (one or both) with more secure screws such as torx or torx with pin in the middle?

If I stop to eat or at a store, I secure my bike to my vehicle using a robust chain/lock to the hitch but the $800 battery only takes a 4mm hex (which is in the top tube tool) and 2 minutes to remove.

Ok, I had a brainwave...you could replace one of the bolts with a m5 eyebolt then wrap a bike chain lock tightly thru it & around the frame thus the eyebolt can not be unscrewed.


Just a thought.

 

[farang]

For those with a full size battery (not range extender), I've found the perfect carrying case for it; even better than the battery case included with EVOC e-ride packs.

It's originally designed to carry 4 beer cans, which equate to the length of the TQ battery. It has waterproof zippers, insulated/padded, and has lots of configurable straps on every side. It's also very well made.

I think it's a pretty good price for what it is.

All Products

STASHERS Modular Insulated Adventure Bags, Hiking Bags, Bike Bags, Frame Bags, Handlebar Bags, Insulated Bike Bag, Bike Cooler, Can Cooler, Tube Cooler, Cooler Bag, Beer Bag, Bikepacking Gear, Can Sling, Can Sleeve, Cycling Bag, Tool Bag, Gear Bag, Kayaking Bag, Bicycle Bag, Bicycling, Bikes...

getstashers.com

 

[Gd3fit]

Do you keep it on the top tube?

 

[farang]

Do you keep it on the top tube?

You certainly could but I keep mine in my backpack for long rides. Gives me extra security with the padding, waterproofing, and minimizes heat/cold exposure. I know the battery is IP67 but I don't think the exposed connection plug is.

 

[Swingset]

Fuel EXe - Official Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

I picked up my baja yellow 9.8 XT ‘M’ today – 18.6kg out of the box & tubeless (incl. see-thru frisbee on rear wheel). Ordered in December, arrived at LBS roughly 2 months late. It is equipped as specified online at time of order, except for Charger 3 on the Lyrik. Also came with the...

www.emtbforums.com

After a few weeks of use my I9 headset has appeared to cure a very intermittent click, creak, crack from the stock headset. Who knows, it could be an installation quirk but quite happy with it so far.

 

[DancingWithMyself]

^ Thanks!

I had some headset creaking I ended up resolving, I think mainly with a cane creek subassembly/compression ring. Although I wasn't overly impressed with the construction of the bearing seats.

Just FYI, my notes on bearings from when I dug into it are below. I'd be shocked if you couldn't run a normal cane creek lower bearing without any issues, but what's spec'd is slightly taller. I'd at least check to make sure you're not getting any rubbing at the bottom of the steerer tube. I didn't dig further on depth of lower bearing seat vs whatever is standard. IF it matters, maybe some of these other headsets match the stock lower bearing.

I'm running a cane creek race with the stock bearing, for whatever that's worth.

• FSA Bearing
• Upper is MR122
  • 30.15 x 41 x 6.5 mm 36/45º
  • 1 1/8" cane creek identical
• Lower is MR127
  • 40 x 51.8 x 8 mm 36/45º
    
    • This is different from a 1.5" cane creek lower bearing
      • MR127 is 1.5mm taller and constructed slightly differently

I don't think the slight construction difference with the M127 makes any difference. Google for an image.

 

[Balboa]

I brought my bike to the LBS last week after approximately 1000kms. I still feel drag when pedaling without assistance when the motor is warm or when I biked a bit longer without assistance. Switching it off and on doesn't result in a solution. On longer and steep climbs the motor didn't deliver the full 300w when selected and became too hot to touch. There was no notice on the screen. Waiting for 15 minutes to cool down the engine resulted in full power again. But when it was hot again, there was again not more then 200w. I'm fairly fit and do deliver 250w myself for longer time without any problem. Lately there was also a clicking noise coming form the TQ motor. The LBS claimed a warranty at Trek.

I received the range extender a week for my holidays. I find it funny that the screen says 150% battery when turned on, but the RE is not any way close for 50% extra power. It gave my enough battery for my rides though.

Hopefully they will exchange the motor. I do love the bike and hopefully I can use it soon without these problems.

 

[Emailsucks98]

I brought my bike to the LBS last week after approximately 1000kms. I still feel drag when pedaling without assistance when the motor is warm or when I biked a bit longer without assistance. Switching it off and on doesn't result in a solution. On longer and steep climbs the motor didn't deliver the full 300w when selected and became too hot to touch. There was no notice on the screen. Waiting for 15 minutes to cool down the engine resulted in full power again. But when it was hot again, there was again not more then 200w. I'm fairly fit and do deliver 250w myself for longer time without any problem. Lately there was also a clicking noise coming form the TQ motor. The LBS claimed a warranty at Trek.

The TQ display screen that shows rider watts/assist watts is good to check here. While climbing a 5500' ride yesterday I felt like the motor (and myself) were suddenly, seriously dragging, even in boost. I went to that display page and it showed me as putting out 0w (I was at nearly max effort) and the motor was putting out only 50w in boost. This lasted only a moment, then suddenly everything was fine- the motor and I both were putting out 150w+. Everything worked great for the remainder of the 5.5hr ride.

I think the display showing 0w probably indicates an error with the torque sensor. Either that, or it's sort of an overheat mode. If it's a temporary, intermittent issue I'm not worried, but I am going to keep an eye on it, and also check in with my dealer. Perhaps the torque sensor can be recalibrated via a firmware update (?)

 

[BuzzCanada]

The TQ display screen that shows rider watts/assist watts is good to check here. While climbing a 5500' ride yesterday I felt like the motor (and myself) were suddenly, seriously dragging, even in boost. I went to that display page and it showed me as putting out 0w (I was at nearly max effort) and the motor was putting out only 50w in boost. This lasted only a moment, then suddenly everything was fine- the motor and I both were putting out 150w+. Everything worked great for the remainder of the 5.5hr ride.

I think the display showing 0w probably indicates an error with the torque sensor. Either that, or it's sort of an overheat mode. If it's a temporary, intermittent issue I'm not worried, but I am going to keep an eye on it, and also check in with my dealer. Perhaps the torque sensor can be recalibrated via a firmware update (?)

There is something going on with the torque sensor on this motor. The rider wattage being displayed is out between 20-30 percent. That's not good and a indication of something being amiss. I've checked versus my Garmin pedals as have multiple people on this forum. I'm waiting to see if Trek/TQ come clean with what's going on. The input wattage is critical as it determines motor assist. If the torque is estimating wattage incorrectly then who knows if you're even getting the proper wattage assist. At the moment it's not a deal killer but I am getting a little anxious with the system as TQ has gone quiet and Trek does not seem to be taking any of this seriously. A serious bike company allows it product to display wattage out 30%? 2023 and no way to check firmware version? 2023 and no OTA firmware updates ? Already had the display die and my motor has begun to display weird behaviors and sounds. The sprag clutch may be an issue in all this. Who knows. Trek in my opinion should take a page out of Specialized boom and develop the software for the motor and have control over the product in their bikes. It's becoming obvious this system is far from refined and it's beginning to show. But I'm cheering for them, and I hope they get serious and come clean and solve or explain what's going on.

 

[mitea]

Thing is there isnt any usual torque sensor in this motor because there was not enough space left to mount one. I read that they somehow caculate the rider tourque by some patented algorithm. Daniel Thiel also mentioned that in a podcast I listened to lately.

 

[Mteam]

The TQ display screen that shows rider watts/assist watts is good to check here. While climbing a 5500' ride yesterday I felt like the motor (and myself) were suddenly, seriously dragging, even in boost. I went to that display page and it showed me as putting out 0w (I was at nearly max effort) and the motor was putting out only 50w in boost. This lasted only a moment, then suddenly everything was fine- the motor and I both were putting out 150w+. Everything worked great for the remainder of the 5.5hr ride.

I think the display showing 0w probably indicates an error with the torque sensor. Either that, or it's sort of an overheat mode. If it's a temporary, intermittent issue I'm not worried, but I am going to keep an eye on it, and also check in with my dealer. Perhaps the torque sensor can be recalibrated via a firmware update (?)

I had similar the other day - while climbing my power input was being measured as around 80w, when normally I would be putting in around 200w, and so the assistance that the motor gives was correspondingly low. Earlier in the ride everything had been working as normal. I have recently got the range extender battery, and when this issue occurred was shortly after the bike had switched over from using the range extender for power to using the main battery, and that switch over occurred on a steep climbing section.

I fixed the issue by stopping, switching the bike off, wait 30 seconds and switched it back on again, after this it started registering my power correctly (at 200w) and all was normal again.

I put the issue down to the system incorrectly calibrating the torque sensor when it switched over from the range extender battery to the main battery, but I'm just guessing really. Either way it wasnt a big deal. Will keep and eye on it and see if I can reproduce it.

 

[Mteam]

There is something going on with the torque sensor on this motor. The rider wattage being displayed is out between 20-30 percent. That's not good and a indication of something being amiss. I've checked versus my Garmin pedals as have multiple people on this forum. I'm waiting to see if Trek/TQ come clean with what's going on. The input wattage is critical as it determines motor assist. If the torque is estimating wattage incorrectly then who knows if you're even getting the proper wattage assist. At the moment it's not a deal killer but I am getting a little anxious with the system as TQ has gone quiet and Trek does not seem to be taking any of this seriously. A serious bike company allows it product to display wattage out 30%? 2023 and no way to check firmware version? 2023 and no OTA firmware updates ? Already had the display die and my motor has begun to display weird behaviors and sounds. The sprag clutch may be an issue in all this. Who knows. Trek in my opinion should take a page out of Specialized boom and develop the software for the motor and have control over the product in their bikes. It's becoming obvious this system is far from refined and it's beginning to show. But I'm cheering for them, and I hope they get serious and come clean and solve or explain what's going on.

The TQ rep has said in a previous thread that the power measurement is not as accurate a proper power meter would be, and it shouldnt be used as an accurate power meter. In my opinion it doesnt matter whether the power measured is absolutely accurate, as long as its consistent. ie it can measure 20% less than the correct power and that is fine, as long as its always 20% less than the correct power. If one day (or 1 minute) it measures 20% less than you are putting in , then the next it measures 5% more , then that is when you will have problems

 

[BuzzCanada]

The TQ rep has said in a previous thread that the power measurement is not as accurate a proper power meter would be, and it shouldnt be used as an accurate power meter. In my opinion it doesnt matter whether the power measured is absolutely accurate, as long as its consistent. ie it can measure 20% less than the correct power and that is fine, as long as its always 20% less than the correct power. If one day (or 1 minute) it measures 20% less than you are putting in , then the next it measures 5% more , then that is when you will have problems

I disagree with with a number of items. First off, if the rider wattage is nothing more than a “guess” you do not create a screen showing wattage in increments of 1. It’s the same as having an inaccurate fuel gauge or speedometer. Any engineer knows that when you give a number you are implying accuracy. I use a power meter as do most people that are tracking fitness levels and VO2 Max. If the power is inaccurate they should not imply that it is a power meter. A better solution would have been having no numbers and only bars indicating effort level. If this is not to be used as a power meter then it should not be able to connect to a cycle computer as such which it can. I used this initially and connected it to my Garmin head unit and knew instantly that something wasn’t right. There is a torque sensor in there. They had to use something in house to do it and calibrating it to read rider wattage correctly should be doable. Now, if they want the system to estimate a lower rider input they can do that in the background as part of the algorithm but the actual wattage should be displayed properly as is the speed, cadence, and battery percentage. If the unit is unable to display wattage properly it should be turned off, and it should not be sharing itself out as a power meter and this should have been communicated. I’ve had other ebikes and different motors and connected my Garmin to their motor power meters and got correct rider wattage. Now wattage may not be important to you and many people on here, but there are many of us that see this as a big fail. It’s a little sloppy. That being said, I love the system, I just want them to get this sorted out. Nothing but love for everyone here.

 

[BuzzCanada]

Thing is there isnt any usual torque sensor in this motor because there was not enough space left to mount one. I read that they somehow caculate the rider tourque by some patented algorithm. Daniel Thiel also mentioned that in a podcast I listened to lately.

Watched the podcast! Thanks. Very interesting. He does say there is a torque sensor but an in house one rather than a off the shelf one. Thanks for the info though.

 

[mitea]

Watched the podcast! Thanks. Very interesting. He does say there is a torque sensor but an in house one rather than a off the shelf one. Thanks for the info though.

You're right. For those of you that are interested here is the podcast The Future of eBike Technology? – TQ Drives

Sensor topic starting at 21min. But the whole podcast is very interesting to get to know how much effort the put into any details of the motor to get that natural ride feeling.

 

[Bom6erm4n]

I seem to remember that the original motor in my bike didn't have the adjusters, but the next two motors both have had them. That could mean that certain of the original motors supplied to Trek in OEM spec didn't have the adjusters? (Perhaps because the mounting gaps were known and assumed to be in tolerance, but it seems several bikes creak out of the box) All "aftermarket" or replacement ones will have because they are universal.... I suspect this because there is an "extra" mounting bolt in the box along with the two that fir the EXe. Manufacturers don't throw in random extra bolts.

I got my Bike back from my Dealer and got a new Motor now with the width-adjustable Motormounts and the clicking noise is gone
They talked to TQ and they said it was a running change and the early bikes / motors came without the adjusters.
There is no official document or bulletin from Trek / TQ to inform the Shops about that they got the info only after calling them.

On the positive side TQ sent out a new motor within 1-2 days after my dealer contacted them which is quite good. I was only 1 week off the bike

 

[Balboa]

I brought my bike to the LBS last week after approximately 1000kms. I still feel drag when pedaling without assistance when the motor is warm or when I biked a bit longer without assistance. Switching it off and on doesn't result in a solution. On longer and steep climbs the motor didn't deliver the full 300w when selected and became too hot to touch. There was no notice on the screen. Waiting for 15 minutes to cool down the engine resulted in full power again. But when it was hot again, there was again not more then 200w. I'm fairly fit and do deliver 250w myself for longer time without any problem. Lately there was also a clicking noise coming form the TQ motor. The LBS claimed a warranty at Trek.

I received the range extender a week for my holidays. I find it funny that the screen says 150% battery when turned on, but the RE is not any way close for 50% extra power. It gave my enough battery for my rides though.

Hopefully they will exchange the motor. I do love the bike and hopefully I can use it soon without these problems.

LBS just informed me that Trek ships a new motor to them. Still curious about the 'real' problem. I don't think the problem was a torque sensor because the power loss and drag were there for more then a few moments.

 

[BuzzCanada]

LBS just informed me that Trek ships a new motor to them. Still curious about the 'real' problem. I don't think the problem was a torque sensor because the power loss and drag were there for more then a few moments.

Possibly the clutch ?

 

[BuzzCanada]

You're right. For those of you that are interested here is the podcast The Future of eBike Technology? – TQ Drives

Sensor topic starting at 21min. But the whole podcast is very interesting to get to know how much effort the put into any details of the motor to get that natural ride feeling.

To be honest the podcast actually made me feel better about what’s going on there. I got the feeling they are really trying to refine the motor and the system as a whole. The webinar series for dealers is an important start. It really is an amazing system and I am completely sold on it. They’re close to having it perfect and it sounds like that is the goal for them.

 

[Cell4soul]

The TQ display screen that shows rider watts/assist watts is good to check here. While climbing a 5500' ride yesterday I felt like the motor (and myself) were suddenly, seriously dragging, even in boost. I went to that display page and it showed me as putting out 0w (I was at nearly max effort) and the motor was putting out only 50w in boost. This lasted only a moment, then suddenly everything was fine- the motor and I both were putting out 150w+. Everything worked great for the remainder of the 5.5hr ride.

I think the display showing 0w probably indicates an error with the torque sensor. Either that, or it's sort of an overheat mode. If it's a temporary, intermittent issue I'm not worried, but I am going to keep an eye on it, and also check in with my dealer. Perhaps the torque sensor can be recalibrated via a firmware update (?)

Did you do 5,500’ on a single battery, or is that with both of your batteries?

 

[Emailsucks98]

I used both batteries, used 90% of #1 in eco/trail mode. Once I put #2 in a was in boost for the rest of the day. AQI of 110 and 8000’ elevation, was not feeling awesome but we got it done!

I rode with a dude on a sweet new transition relay. He was fitter than me and was able to get the entire ride done with the one 430w battery. We concluded the bikes had pretty similar efficiency though.

The drop in the #1 battery is where I had the assist drop & tried restarting