Fuel EXe Official Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
All good stuff
There's more suspension discussion on Antonio's blogspot for November 2022 here:
(scroll down below the BMC bike info)
Linkage Design
linkagedesign.blogspot.com
here's an excerpt -
"In the graph of the Leverage Ratio we see how the system is progressive (2.6~2.15), quite good figures for a model of this type, but that do not stand out too much compared to its direct rivals. With 16% progressiveness, the system is not optimized to work with a spring shock absorber, but nowadays there are shock absorbers with hydraulic systems to avoid bump stops, progressive springs and many options when it comes to adjusting them, so it cannot be done either. discard this option. In the standard mounts, Trek offers several options: RS Superdeluxe and Fox Float X in the mid-range and high-end models, and a Fox Float DPS in the cheaper version. The size (230x60mm) is very well chosen and the Medium LR (2.33:1) is very low, an important detail for heavier users. Finally, we must mention that Trek has made it very easy to change the rear travel, with a 230x65mm shock absorber, the travel goes up to 151mm of travel and apparently you can continue using the Low position, since the frame has room to spare in the area of the straps. The progressivity remains the same, but even so I think it's an interesting option and that it allows for slightly more aggressive assemblies..."
dannyb
New Member
Very interesting!All good stuff
There's more suspension discussion on Antonio's blogspot for November 2022 here:
(scroll down below the BMC bike info)
Linkage Design
here's an excerpt -
"In the graph of the Leverage Ratio we see how the system is progressive (2.6~2.15), quite good figures for a model of this type, but that do not stand out too much compared to its direct rivals. With 16% progressiveness, the system is not optimized to work with a spring shock absorber, but nowadays there are shock absorbers with hydraulic systems to avoid bump stops, progressive springs and many options when it comes to adjusting them, so it cannot be done either. discard this option. In the standard mounts, Trek offers several options: RS Superdeluxe and Fox Float X in the mid-range and high-end models, and a Fox Float DPS in the cheaper version. The size (230x60mm) is very well chosen and the Medium LR (2.33:1) is very low, an important detail for heavier users. Finally, we must mention that Trek has made it very easy to change the rear travel, with a 230x65mm shock absorber, the travel goes up to 151mm of travel and apparently you can continue using the Low position, since the frame has room to spare in the area of the straps. The progressivity remains the same, but even so I think it's an interesting option and that it allows for slightly more aggressive assemblies..."
Note that the quote has the wrong dimensions. Our shocks are 205x60, not 230x65.
Also I spoke with Trek corporate and going beyond 60mm rear stroke is untested and could void warranty.
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Treksurfer
Member
here is the data from my Deluxe Select+ from the Fuel EXE-e 9.5
Treksurfer
Member
Does anyone have the trailhead data of a Fuel EX-e with RS Super Deluxe Ultimate shock?
steveL
Member
Hi All,
I have a Trek Fuel EXe 9.8 and I am loving it. I haven't really had issues with it outside of the things noted in the forum; the chainring lock needed to be tightened. Thanks to the forum for identifying that issue so that I knew what the solution to the creaking was.
I am wondering if people are having issues with the paint? I have the deep smoke color(black) and it is really susceptible to scuffing and in places the paint has chipped off. I'm not overly concerned about paint in general, I have 250 km on this and the paint is marked up. I am concerned about what it will look like in a year or so as it only got ridden for 3 weeks.
My bike is now in bed for the winter as our temperatures drop to minus 16C and stay below freezing all day. I can hardly wait for spring.
Steve
I have a Trek Fuel EXe 9.8 and I am loving it. I haven't really had issues with it outside of the things noted in the forum; the chainring lock needed to be tightened. Thanks to the forum for identifying that issue so that I knew what the solution to the creaking was.
I am wondering if people are having issues with the paint? I have the deep smoke color(black) and it is really susceptible to scuffing and in places the paint has chipped off. I'm not overly concerned about paint in general, I have 250 km on this and the paint is marked up. I am concerned about what it will look like in a year or so as it only got ridden for 3 weeks.
My bike is now in bed for the winter as our temperatures drop to minus 16C and stay below freezing all day. I can hardly wait for spring.
Steve
mitea
Member
Isn't that a warranty issue?
I would doubt it, it's just wear and tear, that's what frame protection tape is for. Just like if the frame cracks because a rock hits it, that would not be warranty, might be covered under a crash replacement scheme though.
Warranty would be if the paint is peeling off without any external influence.
But I'm just some bloke on the internet ,so could be wrong...
DBSwiss
Member
i have the same paint observations On my blue 9.8XT EXe. My bike had two chips down to the frame after just 2 rides. Paint seems very hard. I did add some helicopter tape to chain and seat stays to protect them going forward and I put on the down tube protector that came with the bike. Did you get the correct carbon cranks? mine Came with Al cranks.
Swingset
Active member
Did a bar swap last night. When I was loosening the screw on the remote I had that low feeling that the screw was stripping. Sure enough the threads on the screw were shot. The head of the screw jammed in the bore on the remote and the screw cocked in the 'nut' and it striped the threads. The nut is essentially a thin steel sheet. I found some stock in my garage and with some sawing, drilling, and tapping made myself a new one. Amazingly I had a good stainless 3mm replacement screw laying around.
Be very gentle if you do have to adjust or remove the remote. Its pretty wimpy. Don't back the screw off any more than needed to slip it on or off the bar.
Be very gentle if you do have to adjust or remove the remote. Its pretty wimpy. Don't back the screw off any more than needed to slip it on or off the bar.
Emailsucks98
Active member
Steve, since the bike's down for the winter, I'd suggest putting some ride wrap on there. Their kit covers the entire frame and will probably hide some of the damage by creating a new self-healing clear top coat. I wonder if you could wet-sand some of the scuffs with 1500-2000.
I might have preferred the mulsanne blue but the deep smoke was available sooner and I do like it. While night riding last night, I notice when you hit it with bright light you can see the carbon weave through the paint. I think it actually looks better with the ride wrap.
LuvnmyEXE
Member
Hi - what ridewrap did you choose, gloss or matte? I have the same deep smoke frame color and am trying to decide.
Emailsucks98
Active member
Gloss, quite happy with it. A hairdryer and watching all their videos made the install pretty painless. The Downtube piece required some trimming.
Bjeast
Member
Good to know you like the gloss! I ordered that, but am waiting for the bike. The store I bought my 9.8 from is sourcing a new stem and carbon to replace the silly (to me) one piece carbon bar/stem thing that looks cool, but doesn't allow you to tweak ... anything.
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Emailsucks98
Active member
Right on- somebody here suggested asking your shop to not install the shuttle guard on the downtube. I think it goes on with adhesive, and I had to trim the ride wrap around that piece on mine. Not a big deal- seems redundant to have the shuttle guard over ride wrap...
Had a great ride on mine last night. Feezing temps and steep rock rolls!
Swingset
Active member
My preconceived notions of this bike keep getting shot. I have a 150 foot vert climb up a very steep, straight, 90 degree V groove. At the bottom of the groove is super fine sand about two tire widths wide. On the sides its super hard. If you try and stay in the bottom you will spin out in the sand, try to stay on one of the angled sides and the edge knobs let go. Boost grade for sure. You have to wobble back and forth from one side to another just before the rear side knobs let go. Takes a bunch of finesse on power and weight distribution to clean it. On my Decoy I could get it about half the time. Both times on the Exe I have cleaned it pretty easily. Plenty of power and the bike is really nimble. Seems like the quality of torque for me is much more usable with the gearing than outright twist at the motor on my Decoy.
Beyond impressed. Think I will let the 30 day grace period go by and install the RideWrap this weekend.
Beyond impressed. Think I will let the 30 day grace period go by and install the RideWrap this weekend.
Bjeast
Member
I think that ship has sailed re the shuttle guard! The bike is sitting in the shop, ready to go except for the stem and bar!
Free_Tibet
Member
I have the 9.7 in Grey+Black and the paint top coat definitely scuffs up very easily and started to look very tatty after a couple of rides (in the areas where the full Frameskin film wasn't covering). And I had some chipped paint areas too.
So I used some extra paint protection film to do all the areas the Frameskin kit didn't cover, including around the complex BB area, as that is black in colour and was really starting to look scuffed up just from washing. Yes, it took a bit of time, and yes it is a bit OCD
... but hey, it is an expensive bike and it will be nice to have it looking as good for as long as possible (and of course for any potential future resale when the Project One colours become available 
).Free_Tibet
Member
Re the large rubber shuttle guard piece... in case anyone is wondering... I successfully took mine off and repositioned it and it stuck down perfectly again. (I did this as it had been applied by Trek out of alignment with the frame and the lower guard piece.
Apart from looking wrong, the offset positioning was stopping me from fitting my Frameskin film correctly (as the Frameskin pattern assumes the shuttle guard piece is in place and literally fits to within 1-2mm of the edge of the shuttle guard).
So I carefully peeled the rubber shuttle guard off and then repositioned it to it's correct position. It has stayed stuck down perfectly since... but of course YMMV.
DancingWithMyself
Member
The paint durability is very subpar. The paint durability, the small pivot bearings, the headset top cap, and the lower shock mount are my only gripes. And, at least on the Matte Penny Flake, there is no Pantone or other color code for touchup paint because of all the layering.
It's a gorgeous color, but swing and a miss as far as practicality. Contrast to Santa Cruz where you can literally go to myperfectcolor.com and search by the name of your bike and order touchup paint.
And before everyone tells me to install RideWrap, that doesn't excuse the brittleness of the paint, and the fact Ridewrap might be a really good idea only makes the fact they don't have a frame only option even more annoying.
It's a gorgeous color, but swing and a miss as far as practicality. Contrast to Santa Cruz where you can literally go to myperfectcolor.com and search by the name of your bike and order touchup paint.
And before everyone tells me to install RideWrap, that doesn't excuse the brittleness of the paint, and the fact Ridewrap might be a really good idea only makes the fact they don't have a frame only option even more annoying.
Swingset
Active member
I stroked my 9.7. ordered a 160 air spring for the fork. Very simple install. Then took the air can off the rear and took the 2 2.5mm orange spacers out of the shock. My incredible luck with screws continues as I found a couple of 3mm shorter flat head screws to compensate for the lack of travel spacers. Checked the clearance with no air and it looks good. So I should be 160x l52 now. Give it hell tomorrow and report back.
Bjeast
Member
Look forward to hearing the report!!!!
Nick314
Member
I ride way faster on my own than with my regular group, so considering this as I'm a little 'over' the 24kg of my Cube. I love it, but would like something more nimble. I also live 30mins from Bike Park Wales where the Cube is knackering to control on the descents.
Has anyone got one of these yet?
I did exactly the same to my 9.7 and took it for a spin today. Can't say I noticed a difference (I've only done 3 rides so far and I think I need a volume reducer in the rear), but it was a cheap upgrade and sets me up for more knarly rides in the future.
If that was done from the factory when they built the bike, I would demand a new frame. That is a complete hack job. I just installed a new shock on my 9.5 and it fit with no problems.
At 6’1” (187cm) and with a 34” (86cm) inseam I'm kind of torn between sizes here.. Trek and some other kind fellows recommended an L, some say the XL would probably be too large, some say the L would be too tiny, and some champs around the internets are in the pleasant "you should know what size you need... lol.. don't buy one if you can't figure it" group.
Well; around where I live there's no Fuel Exe in sight to take for a test ride. My gut tells me L might be just great. Is my gut lying to me?
Well; around where I live there's no Fuel Exe in sight to take for a test ride
. My gut tells me L might be just great. Is my gut lying to me?
dannyb
New Member
At 6’1” (187cm) and with a 34” (86cm) inseam I'm kind of torn between sizes here.. Trek and some other kind fellows recommended an L, some say the XL would probably be too large, some say the L would be too tiny, and some champs around the internets are in the pleasant "you should know what size you need... lol.. don't buy one if you can't figure it" group.
Well; around where I live there's no Fuel Exe in sight to take for a test ride
Many (not all) fit experts suggest modern frames have become too big for the designated size. Today's "small" was called a medium or even large 10 years ago.
Your Mountain Bike Is Probably Too Big for You
The long-low-slack trend has produced bikes that handle fantastically, but versatility and fit have suffered
www.outsideonline.com
Also look for Lee McCormack content on bike fit for some interesting reads.
Bjeast
Member
Wow, I hate to muddy the water, but I'm right between a medium and large, and I went with the large 9.8. The emdium just felt a bit too small. But... I'm putting on a shorter bar stem to decrease reach. I could have gotten away with it, but decided to go large. I hope I haven't made a mistake, but I guess we'll see!At 6’1” (187cm) and with a 34” (86cm) inseam I'm kind of torn between sizes here.. Trek and some other kind fellows recommended an L, some say the XL would probably be too large, some say the L would be too tiny, and some champs around the internets are in the pleasant "you should know what size you need... lol.. don't buy one if you can't figure it" group.
Well; around where I live there's no Fuel Exe in sight to take for a test ride
Here's the geometry geeks comparison of my S3 Enduro and the large 9.8 XT EXe in low position.
Geometry Geeks
The world's biggest open geometry database. Find bikes by name or numbers. Easily compare bike geometry side-by-side.
geometrygeeks.bike
Emailsucks98
Active member
That’s the problem right there
My .02c, there is no “correct fit” on a mountain bike, it depends on terrain, riding style, skills & priorities. Most all of us could go up or down a size and enjoythe pros/cons of each.
IMO Trek confused things with their “Frame size number/letter”. If they called the “L” a 17” or maybe just an S3 or whatever, it’s be more intuitive. I suppose the frame size number is really the horizontal intersection of reach and stack… but the low stack/HT length on these frames makes the reach look artificially long. If you’re increasing fork travel or running spacers under the steam you can take 1-2cm off Trek’s reach.
I’m glad I got to ride both a M&L before buying. The L actually feels pretty close to my M propain Tyee and M/L Chromag Wideangle.
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DancingWithMyself
Member
I'm your size (186cm). Mostly arms and legs, with really, really long arms (197cm wingspan). I am on a large with a 50mm stem (single 5mm spacer) and 35mm rise OneUp Bars. I am very happy with my choice. However . . .At 6’1” (187cm) and with a 34” (86cm) inseam I'm kind of torn between sizes here.. Trek and some other kind fellows recommended an L, some say the XL would probably be too large, some say the L would be too tiny, and some champs around the internets are in the pleasant "you should know what size you need... lol.. don't buy one if you can't figure it" group.
Well; around where I live there's no Fuel Exe in sight to take for a test ride
I think you are making a mistake staring with reach, especially since, like me, you are always in between a L and XL. I always start with HTA, wheelbase, rear center, and BB drop. Then I look at reach, stack, and STA and do some math to make sure I can get the seated and standing positions I want.
Very dependent on what you're going to ride and your style of riding. I ride the EXe a lot locally (i.e., not the long and really steep (fall line) descents). On the other hand, I almost never ride my Banshee Titan locally. Have large 5010 and EXe and XL Banshee (basically 1300 wheelbase). Feel very comfortable on all of them for what I use them for most of the time.
If you want playful and are looking at large, make sure your bar and stem combo are going to allow you to run them with very, very minimal spacers to preserve the reach (i.e., factor in replacing that stupid one-piece bar).
Obviously all my opinions, but hope it helps.
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