What did you do to your EBike this week?

Gila Man said:
I may have to look into that misting fan. Our garage was 92* yesterday and we haven’t even hit the constant triple digit days yet. I realize it won’t be as great as a/c but I’m too “thrifty” to pay the electric to cool the garage.
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It’s could have a finer mist like a proper misting system, but you know how dry it is here. It’s not like you’re going to actually be wet unless you’re 3’ away from it. Definitely made wrenching yesterday significantly more comfortable. Recommend, especially when you consider it’s battery powered and portable.
 
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Rebuilt the leaking lever, now ready to go back on the bike for another 7000 miles. Definitely one of the more fiddly jobs I've done, refitting the lever spring took three you tube tutorials & two hours, most of which was spent looking for the spring.

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Ever since upsizing my Lewis rotors from 200 to 220 front and rear, I’ve been dealing with noisy brakes in the rear. I’m so far down the road of finding a permanent solution, that I’m putting back on the 200mm rear rotor; if only to confirm a baseline.

While I’ve been impressed with the Lewis LH4 brakes, I haven’t been so much with their rotors. I’ll probably try different rotors, but putting back on the 200 rear rotor will be a good test for now.

I will say-when I run the 220 rear rotor I need to use a +20 spacer on the caliper. I can’t help but ponder the caliper spacer factoring into the creation of the resonance (howl). 🤔 Caliper bolts right to the frame with the 200 rotor.

Saved 35g in unsprung weight. 😐

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All I can say is that we have Swissstop Catalyst Pro 220 rotors front and rear now with Swissstop D27 RS pads but previously with Shimano D03S pads, never had any noise issues with either. Only switched to D27 pads because they last longer. I know that's no help to you.
 
Try a thicker disc, it will vibrate at a different frequency, so it will not respond to the particular set of circumstances that, on your bike, is causing your current disc to vibrate.
 
Today I changed the two complete drivetrains on our Trek Rails
- Chain
- Cassette
- Front chain ring
- RD jockey wheels


My Trek Rail 9.7 was very overdue : I still had the original chain since purchase fitted, over 2 years ago and 1,300 miles later : when I lined up the old chain against the new chain, it was almost a complete link of stretch difference :oops: It explains why shifting was very jumpy 😝


On my sons Rail 5 : Trek did an interesting choice, instead of going for a Microspline hub for his 12 speed, they chose to go with a Shimano HG hub meaning there is only one cassette choice available : a SunRace CSMZ800. This will probably be the only time I'll change the cassette before he outgrows this bike but defo a strange product choice from Trek there!


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I took it to a wonderful local bike shop:
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and had them give it a full service. I could have done most of the work myself, but I have far too much to do at the moment and with today's temperature hitting 36°C, I wasn't exactly eager to spend hours in the garage.

They trued the wheels (which were rubbing slightly against the fenders), replaced the Kiox mount that had broken in a fall, updated the firmware, changed the brake pads and brake fluid, gave the bike a thorough cleaning, and cleaned the motor.

Now it's a completely different bike: much quieter and smoother to ride.

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My wallet is a little different too... €130 lighter.
 
Yearly inspection for my leased bike, new brake pads and a chain. Normally i do everything myself but this yearly inspection is mandatory. 150€ for parts and labor, luckily it’s included in my “subscription”.
 
steve_sordy said:
Try a thicker disc, it will vibrate at a different frequency, so it will not respond to the particular set of circumstances that, on your bike, is causing your current disc to vibrate.
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I don’t think I can go thicker than the 2.2mm that the Lewis is, but I’m thinking to a different rotor design would also deliver a different resonant frequency.

While changing back to the 200 rotor it looked like the 220 rotor might not have been sitting absolutely flush on the hub. I block sanded the hub surface to make sure the 200 rotor was mated 100%.

Did a quick bed-in around the parking lot, and there was no noise. I’m going to do a quick test ride tomorrow morning at Dreamy Draw/Phoenix Mountain Preserve before work, mostly to test a different suspension setup before I head up to Sedona this weekend. I’ll see if the rear brake stops complaining. 🤞🏻
 
Powerslider said:
I don’t think I can go thicker than the 2.2mm that the Lewis is, but I’m thinking to a different rotor design would also deliver a different resonant frequency.

While changing back to the 200 rotor it looked like the 220 rotor might not have been sitting absolutely flush on the hub. I block sanded the hub surface to make sure the 200 rotor was mated 100%.

Did a quick bed-in around the parking lot, and there was no noise. I’m going to do a quick test ride tomorrow morning at Dreamy Draw/Phoenix Mountain Preserve before work, mostly to test a different suspension setup before I head up to Sedona this weekend. I’ll see if the rear brake stops complaining. 🤞🏻
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Following up-Rear brakes were dead quiet on m 8 mi test run yesterday. Sedona this weekend will be the big test, but I'm feeling confident.
 
Look what I did to my ebike this week! :eek:
Top tube gouge.webp

That is the carbon fibre top tube on my frame-wrapped Santa Cruz Vala 90, that I have had less than 5 weeks! Yikes ! :eek:

I was out clearing a trail using my folding saw as a slasher. I returned to my bike, which was leaned on a tree, slashing as I went. As I got close, I did something that caused the bike to start to fall over. I reached out to stop it with my nearest hand. Unfortunately it was the hand holding the saw! From top to bottom in the picture the gouge is about half an inch long. Not sure what I'm going to do with it yet. I'm sort of hoping the framewrap will heal itself, as its proponents are fond of saying. But I think this may be too much of an ask.
 
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steve_sordy said:
Look what I did to my ebike this week! :eek:
View attachment 187038
That is the carbon fibre top tube on my frame-wrapped Santa Cruz Vala 90, that I have had less then 5 weeks! Yikes ! :eek:

I was out clearing a trail using my folding saw as a slasher. I returned to my bike, which was leaned on a tree, slashing as I went. As I got close, I did something that caused the bike to start to fall over. I reached out to stop it with my nearest hand. Unfortunately it was the hand holding the saw! From top to bottom in the picture the gouge is about half an inch long. Not sure what I'm going to do with it yet. I'm sort of hoping the framewrap will heal itself, as its proponents are fond of saying. But I think this may be too much of an ask.
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Damn. Sorry brotha.
I skipped my chain stay off a rock in a fall a while ago. I took off the protective film, wet sanded the area; and reapplied film. Looks a lot better now. The carbon is dark, so it'll look better once you remove all the flaky material and re-wrap it. Good luck.

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steve_sordy said:
Look what I did to my ebike this week! :eek:
View attachment 187038
That is the carbon fibre top tube on my frame-wrapped Santa Cruz Vala 90, that I have had less then 5 weeks! Yikes ! :eek:

I was out clearing a trail using my folding saw as a slasher. I returned to my bike, which was leaned on a tree, slashing as I went. As I got close, I did something that caused the bike to start to fall over. I reached out to stop it with my nearest hand. Unfortunately it was the hand holding the saw! From top to bottom in the picture the gouge is about half an inch long. Not sure what I'm going to do with it yet. I'm sort of hoping the framewrap will heal itself, as its proponents are fond of saying. But I think this may be too much of an ask.
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Ooh, that's not pretty. But at least if you crash it now more scars will matter less.
 
Powerslider said:
Damn. Sorry brotha.
I skipped my chain stay off a rock in a fall a while ago. I took off the protective film, wet sanded the area; and reapplied film. Looks a lot better now. The carbon is dark, so it'll look better once you remove all the flaky material and re-wrap it. Good luck.

View attachment 187040
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Ouch! Finger nail paint and 800 grit emery, then 1600 grit.
 
Topped the tyres up with 30ml of OKO both ends as I'd had a few punctures lately (non that didn't seal), I counted 8 in the rear last time I washed it and thought I'd better get some more sealant in before I pushed my luck a little to far.
 
Bought two of these for our Cycplus AS2 PRO tyre pumps directly from the Oz Pumpa website. Screw directly into the pumps so don't have to use the pump to Schrader extension hose included with Cycplus pumps. Pack nicely into our EDC kits with the other get you-home stuff. Took a week to arrive.

Clik Head for Fumpa pumps Clik Head for Fumpa pumps

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Finally spent some time and cleaned the front calliper pistons on the Magura's. I had 1 sticky piston causing the brake to squeak when riding. Now its back to be awesome.
Did get a little oil on a brake somewhere, but didn't notice until the start of the ride Sunday, a riding buddy had brake cleaner in his van! Awesome, stuff, Holt's car stuff, far better than the bike stuff we get.
 
VWsurfbum said:
Dont your legs / feet hit them?
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Photos are deceptive - the bottles are within the inside of the crank arms. So feet dont hit them and nor do calves/legs. The only time my knees rub them is if i'm standing peddling up a steep incline and moving the bike sideways. Otherwise no issues.

I was recently in a 90 klm gravel race (over 2,000 vertical metres) and needed to carry more water. For the event I strapped an extra water bottle on top of the top tube using the SKS anywhere mounts which was quite effective . I did buy a hydration pack for the event , trialed it and hated it. So I reverted to plan B......the SKS mount for a temporary solution.

I subsequently bought Wolf Tooth double bottle cage holder to try as a more permanant solution.......and to save the crown jewels in the event of a stack and landing on top of the SKS mount.

I'm entering a 4 day event in October (circa 190 klms and over 3,300 metes of climbing) so I am trying to sort out the water situation before the event.
 
Picked the hottest day of the year to change a tyre that refuses to blow onto the bead. 🥵🤬
 
RustyMTB said:
Picked the hottest day of the year to change a tyre that refuses to blow onto the bead. 🥵🤬
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I’ll skip all the measures you probably went through to set that bead…how did you eventually get it?

Similar issue (months ago with a friends tire) , bead wouldn’t set. Moved the tire around, squished the tire, removed the valve core, added soap and water …nothing. FFS

I cranked up the psi on the bike cave compressor to 150psi. Finally got it.

I wonder if a thin and narrow foam “O” ring might help with the initial blast of air. I used one of those back in the 70’s to set tires on car rims. Never tried the explosive gas method.…yet 🤷🏼‍♂️
 
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