Cassette removal tool is easy to hold the chainring.
SZZS specific CEF50-main thread (initial builds and troubleshooting related only)
- Thread starter TCFlowClyde
- Start date
TCFlowClyde
Active member
- Thread starter
- #3,753
Yes, I find it's a tad more tight for my SZZS headset. I do by feel with a small socket wrench to minimize over torquing and then back off a hair rather than my bigger torque wrench.
kaylee.s
New Member
For those of you with diy batteries. What do you do about the battery canbus? Originally I was sent the wrong cable and there was nothing to plug my battery canbus into. This made my bike go to a deep sleep after about an hour. I had to plug it into the charger to wake it up. Do those of you with diy batteries suffer from this too then?
I was afraid of something like this, but haven’t had any issues. Only thing missing is the battery information, charge cycles etc. Battery percentage can be seen on the display, but that is probably straight from voltage.
Yozha
New Member
Hi evrybody. I want to build a lightweight e-bike with a 48V 480WH battery. Question about the fork... If you think about weight, then RockShox Lyrik Ultimate is preferable, but there are problems with the bb height and the frame itself is designed for a stroke of 170 - and this already presupposes ZEB Ultimate 170...
What do you recommend for a light e-bike ZEB or Lyrik?
What do you recommend for a light e-bike ZEB or Lyrik?
Yozha
New Member
Another question about forks: is it necessary to choose E-optimized or is it acceptable to take a regular model?
Is the height of the Zeb so much higher than the Lyrik?
Or are you interested in the 160 or 170mm travel?
I think many users here have installed 160mm - I will do the same for the time being, but I still have a 170mm fork on the shelf.
I'd rather go towards Lyrik than Zeb to save weight. my 170mm is also a zeb though
Regarding the e-bike-specific fork: I don't think that's necessary. Compared to a normal enduro bike, the system weight is maybe 4kg heavier. I think the difference is more for the "uphill flow".
Personally, I would buy whatever is cheaper
I try lyrik ultimate before then swap to fox 38, my bike handling feel totally different. Will be getting ohlin 38 this weekend. Hopefully will feel better. Lyrik n zeb weight difference only 200 gram. I will go for zeb after test out lyrics for 1 months. Again its all depends what of trail u are riding. My its mostly technical with lot of rock. 30% sag n use up 80% travel most of the time. So i stiffness allow me to more confident.
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voigtkampff
New Member
What problems with bb height you have in mind? I use Yari upgraded to Lyrik Ultimate 170 and it performs fine. This was also the most cost-effective option. I guess the difference between Lyrik and Zeb of the same stroke is mainly the stanchion diameter, which affects stiffness and weight, so Lyrik will be slightly less stiff and lighter. I didn't care about e-optimized, the bike is not much heavier than the typical enduro bike.
Yozha
New Member
Recently there have been many reports of the destruction of engine protection. I attributed this to the fact that the bike becomes lower with a 160 mm fork. I'm not a young rider anymore)) 160 mm travel suits me better. I won’t jump from jumps and bike parks are rare here. Rather, these are dynamic descents along winding mountain paths created by cows and sheep - our local trail bidders)) Stone sections are sometimes encountered, but I do not prefer a neat descent along them to a fast flight))
Yozha
New Member
What is the weight of the fork in ruseltate? Did you get a new fork and upgrade kit or was the fork used?
CarolinaCrawler
Active member
Your build really fascinates me. I would love to know the full build specs. Truly incredible getting that spec under 20kg!
greeting. do you have any picture of the cover?
voigtkampff
New Member
Ah, the engine cover... I think this is rather the problem with poor engine cover design (gen 1 & 2). I don't know how gen 3 will perform in this regard, but there seems to be a hope that it could be fixed. I wouldn't link this to any particular fork, I guess people install bash guards in analog bikes for the same reason. I expect this to happen mostly with wrongly timed jump over the log or rock, not during the regular descent.
voigtkampff
New Member
The weight is roughly the same as the regular Yari - Charger weights approximately the same as Motion Control, the same for DebonAir C1. My Yari/Lyrik weights 2.05kg.
I bought a new Yari RC during black weekend sales for ~369$, upgrade kit for ~380$, this is approx. 2/3 price of a new Lyrik Ultimate C3
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yari and lyrik have the same chassis, the difference is in the interior. I bought a new zeb select 29 170mm MY 2023 for 250 eur, weight 2.2kg. I, with 93 kg and an ebike, ride Zeb at 45 psi. the fork works great.
TCFlowClyde
Active member
- Thread starter
- #3,770
Luv'n my 180 Zebs. And 38s in general
A little heavier 220 g -/+ for a beefy trail-enduro rider. Just depends on your trail needs and style. New Zeb internals plush like velvet and buttery smooth for big and small bump compliance. 
20% improvement 
with the buttercups over old. Makes a nice compliment to the burlier CEF50 frame IMHO.
I'm usually a Fox guy too.
A little heavier 220 g -/+ for a beefy trail-enduro rider. Just depends on your trail needs and style. New Zeb internals plush like velvet and buttery smooth for big and small bump compliance. 20% improvement with the buttercups over old. Makes a nice compliment to the burlier CEF50 frame IMHO. I'm usually a Fox guy too.
First i upgrade my carbon to T800 grade initially was 700 standard that was 200 gram saving then include carbon 480wh battery.
Wheelset = dtswiss 240 + 350 sapim cxray spoke + oem carbon rim
Groupset xx1 cassette + xo axs
Dropper one up v1 170mm
Handle bar OneUp rise 35
Stem Renthal Apex
Pedal Deity Tmax
Brake Magura combo F caliper MT7 + R caliper MT8 + lever MT5 + HC3
Saddle OEM specialized power saddle titanium rail.
Chainring china aluminium 34T
Invisible frame protection about 200gram full wrap.
Shock ohlin coil
Fork 38 factory
Cushcore on rear wheel.
Tire assegai front n panaracer enduro rear tire.
Weight = 19.5kg, without pedal n invisible frame protection should be sub 19kg.
TCFlowClyde
Active member
- Thread starter
- #3,772
On the CEF50 motor covers. Since they're custom fit SZZs plastic cover, it's not the more durable Bafang plastic apparently, I and others went with DIY upgrade options.
I choose to take my broken Gen 2 cover and layer carbon fiber over it. So far, 3 months of rocky roll overs and step-ups that would have obliterated Gen 1 and 2 and likely 3, it still exists with only minor scratches.
I argue that it might worth it to find a professional fabricator that already makes E-mtb bashguards either in the US/CAN and/or the EU to taylor make a true bash guard to fit over the SZZS plastic cover which helps shed dust and water from the electronics and motor mount space.
It could be either aluminum or carbon. I suggest to get a dozen CEF owners together from this group thread and be willing to pay the fabricator $50-100 USD to make a batch. I recommend someone take the lead and get a few peeps (6 minimum) on either continent and get an upgrade to end the worries of the poor quality SZZS motor cover material.
As @mike_kelly has suggested in the past, we are ultimately a DIY group. Use the power of interested parties to leverage collective consumer purchasing power to create a much needed, durable upgrade!
I choose to take my broken Gen 2 cover and layer carbon fiber over it. So far, 3 months of rocky roll overs and step-ups that would have obliterated Gen 1 and 2 and likely 3, it still exists with only minor scratches.
I argue that it might worth it to find a professional fabricator that already makes E-mtb bashguards either in the US/CAN and/or the EU to taylor make a true bash guard to fit over the SZZS plastic cover which helps shed dust and water from the electronics and motor mount space.
It could be either aluminum or carbon. I suggest to get a dozen CEF owners together from this group thread and be willing to pay the fabricator $50-100 USD to make a batch. I recommend someone take the lead and get a few peeps (6 minimum) on either continent and get an upgrade to end the worries of the poor quality SZZS motor cover material.
As @mike_kelly has suggested in the past, we are ultimately a DIY group. Use the power of interested parties to leverage collective consumer purchasing power to create a much needed, durable upgrade!
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Can we 3D print out using ABS material? Since abs its flexible but i am not sure about abs 3D print. If the same as our car bumper, i am sure it will last.On the CEF50 motor covers. Since they're custom fit SZZs plastic cover, it's not the more durable Bafang plastic apparently, I and others went with DIY upgrade options.
I choose to take my broken Gen 2 cover and layer carbon fiber over it. So far, 3 months of rocky roll overs and step-ups that would have obliterated Gen 1 and 2 and likely 3, it still exists with only minor scratches.
I argue that it might worth it to find a professional fabricator that already makes E-mtb bashguards either in the US/CAN and/or the EU to taylor make a true bash guard to fit over the SZZS plastic cover which helps shed dust and water from the electronics and motor mount space.
It could be either aluminum or carbon. I suggest to get a dozen CEF owners together from this group thread and be willing to pay the fabricator $50-100 USD to make a batch. I recommend someone take the lead and get a few peeps (6 minimum) on either continent and get an upgrade to end the worries of the poor quality SZZS motor cover material.
As @mike_kelly has suggested in the past, we are ultimately a DIY group. Use the power of interested parties to leverage collective consumer purchasing power to create a much needed, durable upgrade!
TCFlowClyde
Active member
- Thread starter
- #3,774
Most won't have access to a 3-D printer. Doubt the quality could get the durability needed.
There are already several bashguards fabricators for the Levo available commercially...they just fit it over the existing motor cover...just Google to check them out and ask I they could modify the Levo mounting tabs to fit our 3 bolt areas.
masahirov
New Member
Hi Yozha
In the first place, the recommended fork length for CEF50 is 572mm according to AtoC. For a 29er fork, a 160mm stroke is best.
I use a 160mm ZEB and have no problems with handling and stability. The BB height is now 345mm.
masahirov
New Member
I broke the engine cover on my second ride. I didn't hit it directly, but the tree branch that the front wheel rolled up broke it, so I don't think there's any point in worrying about it. It will definitely break. lol
TCFlowClyde
Active member
- Thread starter
- #3,777
170 mm is spec for 29er on the CEF50. Mine is a 27.5 + tire and get a comparable AC. It's taller. So,I knew I could go up to over-stroke it to 180. Plus, I overstroked the rear to 165 mm (a minor controversy in this thread
). All goooood 8 months in. I use the 44 OS (better trail) which seems to carry through berms with agility, and is stable in DH chunk, and surprisingly well balanced on sharp switchbacks. But true a lot have gone 160 mm and some have even dropped to 150 mm with the 29er front.
The frame has good adaptability. I'd argue "best" is a relative term. Most don't want long-travel. I did!
I tried to emulate the Transition Relay, the burly PNW 38 fork Enduro version 170/170...(an awesome stealth machine). It's worked as well as I hoped! 
In essence, travel is just another variable that on the CEF50 trail bike spectrum and seems to handle all well. IMHO 170/170 does seem to be the sweet spot for Enduro riders (I'm just a heavy, weak one). 160/150 works for most trail in general, while 150/150 likely shines for lighter-duty trail. This frame, paired with M820 is a platform for all sub-trail categories.
SZZS just MAKES sh$tty plastic motor covers and could give better (more precise)tech support. I look forward to getting a few more years on this puppy waiting for better battery chemistry to drop the overall wet weight to 40 lbs....a true break through for sure!
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voigtkampff
New Member
when I add headset spacer between plastic-alu cone and headset cover, I make a cutout with scissors similar to the alu element underneath it. otherwise it will definitely cut into the cables (esp. the electrical ones). one 0.25mm spacer is not enough, 2 or 3 will be needed
voigtkampff
New Member
it took almost whole day but I finally managed to squeeze the foam tubing into the chainstays to prevent the cables from rattling. here's a trick I used: I wrap the tube in the slick office tape to decrease friction with rough inner carbon/resin surface. I put some PTFE grease on the outside of the tube, slide the tube down the cable and then rotate it into a spiral around the cable, decreasing its diameter and increasing stiffness, making it less likely to slide on the cable. then, I pull the cable together with the tube into the chainstay, pushing the tube from the engine side.
it was probably the most exhausting part of the build, but cable rattling is gone. the problem I see is that it is a single-use solution, so changing the cables will require removing the foam and then going through all this pain again (but once I discovered the "algorithm" it's not that hard). there's also a possibility the tubes might get stuck...
it was probably the most exhausting part of the build, but cable rattling is gone. the problem I see is that it is a single-use solution, so changing the cables will require removing the foam and then going through all this pain again (but once I discovered the "algorithm" it's not that hard). there's also a possibility the tubes might get stuck...
voigtkampff
New Member
same for me. on one side it seems to be tightened higher than usual, on the other I know there's a piece of plastic inside that will eventually deform. setting this right is very problematic
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