Levo Gen 4 Specialized Gen 4 Levo - Official Thread

[erider1]

does anyone know if you can change the order of power levels on the screen , it goes
off
eco
auto
trail
turbo

i dont Like going through auto to get to trail so I would like like this.

off
auto
eco
trail
turbo

so far I have not heard, I have similar issue with the auto mode, I would like to re-order and also be able to remove all together; have opened a thread about that..

 

[erider1]

So in practice there seems to be no penalty for riding in class 3. If you are riding in class1 when you hit 20mph you can feel the power cut, but if you are riding in class 3 you seem to have full power up to 20mph and then reduced 250watts up to 28mph before assistance cuts. On flats and down hills getting to 28mph pretty easy, but add a hill and you can feel that power reduction above 20 mph... in others words you don't floating at 28mphs up hills.

Cutting off power in class 1 at that 20 mph (~ 19.7 mph) is in my view view way worse than the reduction of power above 20mph in class 3.
I have 130miles on bike and have not yet tried the class 3 riding (but will soon). However on every ride I get frequently to and over the 20mph speed threshold and power cutting and coming on is so disruptive. Such a harsh feeling (always thinking about Specialized slogan supernatural .. and how farther away from truth it could not be).
Anyway specialized really needs to do some software tweaking and monitor rider wattage and if rider pushing high output around that magical 20mph and motor assistance frequently coming on and off, that should be a signal for the bike to allow that class 3 speed dynamically (even if temporarily). Actually anything other than the constant on / off motor assistance is better. There are the options:
1) allow speed up to 28mph dynamically; or rider can turn 28mph support by simple sequence
2) lower motor output below threshold of rider power (let rider power "win")
3) turn of motor assistance completely... I have done than...when riding flats in eco and this phenomenon happens, I have just turned power off completely until my output dropped to sub 20mph (this happens most of the time rather quickly).. so this solution is least desirable..
BUT IN MY VIEW THIS IS THE WORST DRAWBACK OF TUBBO LEVO GEN4... POWER MANAGEMENT AROUND 20MPH SPEED LIMIT...

 

[erider1]

Hi, are there others who have a lot of rattling sounds coming from the front of their Levo Gen 4 bike?

I have gone over and disassembled the entire front of the bike and put it back together, but I can't find the cause of what is making the noise.

Thanks in advance!

Yeah, as someone said, I have thrown away that nonsense pouch inside the battery compartment.
Removed the SWAT tool inside the fork and installed regular stem cap.

Make sure the pinch bolt on the fork is tightened- mine was not when picked new... and was rattling.
Also there is noise and creaks when bike on ground and you just push is back.... slowly rolling back. As motor moves backwards is creaks pretty bad but is seems consistent with other 2 bikes I compared.. so probably normal.

 

[Hitorogoshi]

Ride mine for the 1st time 2 days ago.
I have noticed the same "drop power" as you discribed....
I have 2 battery and it seems the "drop power" is a battery issue

With the battery supplied with the bike i can feel the " lack of tork" especially in stip climb!!!
I was really disaponted as i was thinking that is was the way the motor work ...
I did the same lap with my spare battery and it was night and day, and the bike felt strog everywhere and the smile of my face couldn't go....

sounds like a connection issue for sure

 

[braaten22]

sounds like a connection issue for sure

Not a connection issue, but a battery issue

 

[Gropec]

sounds like a connection issue for sure

Nope!!
Rode today too, and same issue:
One battery is fine and the other is not working properly.
And it is the same battery which is always working well

 

[Zimmerframe]

Nope!!
Rode today too, and same issue:
One battery is fine and the other is not working properly.
And it is the same battery which is always working well

Are both batteries exactly the same ?

I seem to remember in the manual it lists two versions of the battery (slightly different numbers), presumably different suppliers.

 

[braaten22]

Nope!!
Rode today too, and same issue:
One battery is fine and the other is not working properly.
And it is the same battery which is always working well

Here Are the info from my batteries, what does it say on yours?

 

[Gropec]

Not a connection issue, but a battery issue

Yesssss!!!!

Are both batteries exactly the same ?

I seem to remember in the manual it lists two versions of the battery (slightly different numbers), presumably different suppliers.

They are strictly the same !

 

[Gropec]

Here Are the info from my batteries, what does it say on yours? View attachment 161341

 

[Gropec]

View attachment 161342

This is the bad one

 

[braaten22]

looks like You uploaded picture of the same battery twice? At least when looking at det number in the white square at top right corner?

 

[Gropec]

looks like You uploaded picture of the same battery twice? At least when looking at det number in the white square at top right corner?

 

[braaten22]

View attachment 161343

Thanks, really apreciate! Looking forward to test the bike tonight with the other battery. Fingers crossed!

 

[Gropec]

Thanks, really apreciate! Looking forward to test the bike tonight with the other battery. Fingers crossed!

Let us know !!!!!

 

[Zimmerframe]

View attachment 161343

Both yours look the same type.

 

[DylanJM]

So there’s 840wh and 852wh versions out there?

 

[WatermanJim]

Let us know !!!!!

Thinking you might try adjusting the battery reciever. I heard in a review that the bike was cutting out and they had to make this adjustment. the screws are under the rock guard. Good luck.

 

[braaten22]

Thinking you might try adjusting the battery reciever. I heard in a review that the bike was cutting out and they had to make this adjustment. the screws are under the rock guard. Good luck.

I have done that also, and it makes no sense if the bike function with 1 battery and not the other, then it rules that one out

 

[luna87824]

Cutting off power in class 1 at that 20 mph (~ 19.7 mph) is in my view view way worse than the reduction of power above 20mph in class 3.
I have 130miles on bike and have not yet tried the class 3 riding (but will soon). However on every ride I get frequently to and over the 20mph speed threshold and power cutting and coming on is so disruptive. Such a harsh feeling (always thinking about Specialized slogan supernatural .. and how farther away from truth it could not be).
Anyway specialized really needs to do some software tweaking and monitor rider wattage and if rider pushing high output around that magical 20mph and motor assistance frequently coming on and off, that should be a signal for the bike to allow that class 3 speed dynamically (even if temporarily). Actually anything other than the constant on / off motor assistance is better. There are the options:
1) allow speed up to 28mph dynamically; or rider can turn 28mph support by simple sequence
2) lower motor output below threshold of rider power (let rider power "win")
3) turn of motor assistance completely... I have done than...when riding flats in eco and this phenomenon happens, I have just turned power off completely until my output dropped to sub 20mph (this happens most of the time rather quickly).. so this solution is least desirable..
BUT IN MY VIEW THIS IS THE WORST DRAWBACK OF TUBBO LEVO GEN4... POWER MANAGEMENT AROUND 20MPH SPEED LIMIT...

None of that happens with my class 3 Shimano EP801 motor.....

 

[cleoent]

None of that happens with my class 3 Shimano EP801 motor.....

Prob not enough power to get you to 20 mph.

 

[emtbeast]

Are you guys with battery issues riding an S-Works or the regular Levo, the battery you posted is the SBC-B26. Could the S-Works come with the SBC-34, maybe someone with an S-Works can check?

 

[Hitorogoshi]

I have done that also, and it makes no sense if the bike function with 1 battery and not the other, then it rules that one out

it could still be a connection issue, have a good look at the connection ports on each battery and perhaps post some pics.
But yes, you could also have a faulty battery. Nothing spez won't just change without an issue. So get it sorted.

 

[braaten22]

it could still be a connection issue, have a good look at the connection ports on each battery and perhaps post some pics.
But yes, you could also have a faulty battery. Nothing spez won't just change without an issue. So get it sorted.

My bike also Worked 100% with the second battery yesterday. Once i put in the other it starts power drop out almost imidit so def the battery is the issue.

I have the pro model

 

[cleoent]

Are you guys with battery issues riding an S-Works or the regular Levo, the battery you posted is the SBC-B26. Could the S-Works come with the SBC-34, maybe someone with an S-Works can check?

For me Sw

 

[Gropec]

For me Sw

Sw for me too

 

[Power1tobe]

My bike also Worked 100% with the second battery yesterday. Once i put in the other it starts power drop out almost imidit so def the battery is the issue.

I have the pro model

I have had hundreds of Lithium ion batteries, you most likely have a bad cell then and could probably have figured this out a lot faster with a multimeter. Its not uncommon in the manufacturing process to get a bad cell but it crazy this was caught on test. The batteries can also go bad just sitting, regardless glad you found the issue.

 

[Power1tobe]

None of that happens with my class 3 Shimano EP801 motor.....

He said he wasn't running it in class 3 so of course its gonna cut. If he just places it in Class 3 this wont happen.

 

[kawamaha]

The real pink one has arrived..

Turbo Levo 4 Comp Alloy

Der Specialized Science Club stellt vor: Das Levo 4. Ein derart innovatives E-Mountainbike, dass du dich darauf in einen Rad fahrenden Cyborg verwandels...

www.specialized.com

 

[erider1]

swap the rear wheel then.

He said he wasn't running it in class 3 so of course its gonna cut. If he just places it in Class 3 this wont happen.

Yes, for that message I posted I said I was not in CAT3 speeds (28mph). In Cat3, the speeds above 20mph are being supported, which I tested positively this weekend (other issue arises there however and it is lack of gears, ...hard gears; wished we could run 38T chainring on Gen4 (38x10) ; but that is unrelated to motor tuning).
Back to Cat1 (20mph) speed limit and abrupt power cuts around 19.7mph. Because the motor has quite some resistance, when producing power, it is felt very strongly when motor suddenly disengages. Especially when a human is pushing high watts. My view at this is, if the 20mph speeds are achieved primarily by RIDER and with some assistance of motor then there should be some override in algorithm to not cut the motor when 20mph is reached. and perhaps just sustain the motor support. Basically when I am working hard and I am the main producer of watts usually around 300w and motor is adding somewhere between 100-300, could the algorithm learn of that fact and just maintain the assistance, rather than cut off when speed reaches the threshold. Then it would be up to the RIDER to get above 20mph with his effort. This could be assessed by algorithm and power assistance adjusted perhaps every 10 seconds or so and would amount for much better feeling ride around that 20mph.
Or simply allow us to set the CAT3 speed for these situations with single push of button when riding.