Giant calum
Member
Unplugged it for 8hrs plugged back in and it's now charging...ffs
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I rode today battery is down to 75%. I am timing how long till charged to 100. Will post backUnplugged it for 8hrs plugged back in and it's now charging...ffs
1 hour 15 minutes to 99% on bike. Seems about same as before update. Maybe taking battery off first charged cleared it?I rode today battery is down to 75%. I am timing how long till charged to 100. Will post back
Thanks for the test. I didn't have time yet to ride/charge test. I did describe the LED behavior in my previous post thread page 95.1 hour 15 minutes to 99% on bike. Seems about same as before update. Maybe taking battery off first charged cleared it?
The battery light indicator when I turned on bike went full then nothing then one by one till 5 bars never seen that before.
Don't know, the motor settings at least for me reset if I remove the battery and press the power button or leave the bike without the battery for a prolonged time(overnight). When I press the power button without the battery all LEDs light up briefly(like there is charge left somewhere in the system that's being drained).I had the knight rider LEDs also while charging and when I have pressed the on button. After that I checked the motor settings and they were gone. Could it be just a reset signal?
Thanks it's good InformationI have just published a video on my youtube channel where I talk about the problem of this latest update, I tell you that I have discovered the way to enter the application without necessarily having to update the ebike.
In this case, what you have to do is enter the application by putting the phone in airplane mode, once this is done, the application asks you to connect the bluetooth and you have to do it like this but always in airplane mode, by doing so you can enter your ebike without the Mandatory need to update your ebike
I had no idea that this solution had already been given in this forum, it just occurred to me to try the formula since I thought that if the application is not connected to the internet it would not know that there is an update, so I did it and it worked, I was not sure that it would work since there are applications that make it a condition to also be online.Thanks it's good Informationcould help someone, although this was already pointed out a few times in this thread. Maybe we should have a sticky post with such info at the start of the thread.
If you know which post is the most explanatory, just find the post and click on report and we can copy the post into a new thread and make it a sticky in the Giant section.Thanks it's good Informationcould help someone, although this was already pointed out a few times in this thread. Maybe we should have a sticky post with such info at the start of the thread.
RogerIf you know which post is the most explanatory, just find the post and click on report and we can copy the post into a new thread and make it a sticky in the Giant section.
Alternatively, just write a new post about it and we'll watch out for it and make it a sticky or it could be added to the existing sticky :
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Everything about the 2022/2023 Giant Reign E+
Hi, Compiling my notes on the bike here to help others decide if this is the right bike for them and help others with setup. Please add additional details/corrections/links as responses and I will update this first post. Rob's video: Weight: 2022 E+2 = 25.9kg out of the box (tubes no...www.emtbforums.com
Remember that the motor settings are currently reset to default. Maybe you have lost your personal preference set with the app?Yesterday I did a ride and also felt as If the motor had a bit less oomph as before
Thanks for the heads up, I know...my all preferred setting for fun rides was 175% at 60Nm to 70Nm, always felt great for almost all conditions. I definitely know how it felt and yesterday it felt lacking, almost as if the motor had some kind of resistance. I also did check and change settings mid ride.Remember that the motor settings are currently reset to default. Maybe you have lost your personal preference set with the app?
Thanks for the heads up, I know...my all preferred setting for fun rides was 175% at 60Nm to 70Nm, always felt great for almost all conditions. I definitely know how it felt and yesterday it felt lacking, almost as if the motor had some kind of resistance. I also did check and change settings mid ride.
BTW I am doing a long term analysis of the 625Wh and 800Wh battery consumption that I might release when In the right format. I test different settings and so have a pretty good feel for even subtle changes. So far more than 60 rides with different stats.
Yes you are right my torque settings are a bit lower, but as said before I have an analysis of several rides where torque settings were possible, and today's was bellow the average for comparable settings on previous rides.I also had the impression that Launch has tuned down a bit with the latest update.
Had to increase it up from 3 to 4 in Mode 3 (Active) to get the same feeling as before.
Looks like you have redued Torque and Launch to save some Battery? While this is a very good option to do so, it makes your results hardly comparable. But nevertheless interesting to see what other riders prefer.
I did some testing with these settings and they work pretty well for mixed alpine terrain with uphill trail riding:
100 / 150 / 200 / 300 / 400
50 / 60 / 70 / 85 / 85
2 / 2 / 3 / 5 / 7

Are you saying manually changing the circumference gave you a faster speed before cutoff or it just thinks it’s doing a certain speed when cutoff? But it’s really only doing 25klm anyways?Hope u get well dude, an interesting fact about the cut off speed I realized and now remembered I also need to edit in my review somewhere back in this thread. I was seeing different cutoff speeds with my bike in different modes. Usually it was a bit lower than 25kmh.
Don't know what others were/are using for measuring speed, but I used my thrusty Garmin Fenix 6 watch that I had connected with the bike.
I always thought the speed I see on the watch was GPS speed, well the truth was far from reality. The show speed was the speed based on the connected bikes wheel circumference settings in the cadence/speed sensor. Will explain further...
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The first time I became suspicious was when mid ride I glanced at the watch saying "wheel size calibrated" or something like that. I was like, ok great, didn't bother with it to much.
Well the next ride was a fast one, pushing hard, where I thought the bike had gone crazy, it was assisting up to 27kmh when it cutoff.
Then I started to deep dive into my Garmin and the bike sensors and also did some testing. To my surprise the cadence/speed sensor of the bike has a setting for Manual or Auto wheel circumference calibration in Garmin, that was set to Auto. As this is an mtb it is possible that the Auto calibration on rough terrain isn't very accurate. That's exactly what happened, The saved settings were wrong an so was the displayed speed. During my first test attempts with different max out wheel circumference settings I even thought I have free tuning, as the speed shown was close to 38kmh...but comparing it to GPS speed that was around 25ish I realized the point of everything.It crazy how the mind works when it's fixed on an idea.
I have then set the sensor calibration to Manual and manually entered the correct circumference and since then the cutoff speed was always the same. It is possible that this can/did happen with other cycling computers or third party devices connected to the bike,...etc...
Maybe someone will also have a revelation like me...![]()
I think you got the point.Are you saying manually changing the circumference gave you a faster speed before cutoff or it just thinks it’s doing a certain speed when cutoff? But it’s really only doing 25klm anyways?

Do you think they will deal with riders outside of the UK? Probably not, I think I have seen on Fb someone reporting that he was turned down as he was not from the same country.