Cube one77 2025

RRP Proguard rear with extender should keep the vulnerable lower swing arm pivots relatively free from the worst of the slop.

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I will tell you my experience of operation, about a week with my cube stereo hybrid one77. I fixed the knocking of the battery by putting a regular sponge for washing dishes under it and the frame, I had to press hard to snap the battery into place. The bike was creaking, these were the shock absorber mounts and the lower suspension bolt at 18 Nm. Accordingly, I tightened all the bolts with a torque wrench and thread lock. The left, and then the right crank began to unscrew. I also tightened them with thread lock. Also, the connection of the motor and the frame creaked, I had to unscrew the bolts one by one and put them on the thread lock. And yesterday the creaking appeared again, this time it turned out to be the rear axle. At the moment, the bike no longer makes any creaks or sounds, except for the knock of the brake pads. If anyone has any other information, then share it)) Because yesterday I spent a lot of time trying to figure out that the creaking was made by the rear axle)

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So I've done the update and as I use boost less than 5 percent of my rides I've went for
Eco+
Tour +
EMTB
EMTB +
I have to say I'm struggling to see the benefit of the EMTB+ it still feels way too powerful on anything that not super steep

Can anyone tell me what the supposed benefits of EMTB + are over EMTB?
I read some sort of traction control?
Thanks
 
deertrackdoctor said:
So I've done the update and as I use boost less than 5 percent of my rides I've went for
Eco+
Tour +
EMTB
EMTB +
I have to say I'm struggling to see the benefit of the EMTB+ it still feels way too powerful on anything that not super steep

Can anyone tell me what the supposed benefits of EMTB + are over EMTB?
I read some sort of traction control?
Thanks
Click to expand...
I also tried it and it has an obvious advantage. It turns the pedal almost one turn. This helps a lot with technical climbs. But otherwise, I agree that it is like a turbo mode. Only more controllable.
 
Eifice said:
I also tried it and it has an obvious advantage. It turns the pedal almost one turn. This helps a lot with technical climbs. But otherwise, I agree that it is like a turbo mode. Only more controllable.
Click to expand...
Ah so you can ratchet the cranks on tech climbs and rock gardens ,I will give it a try out
 
If anyone is looking for cheap fender, I use this Cube Acid MUD Blocker Front Fender on my rear wheel which cost 18€. It's too short for rough, and muddy conditions, but if you need something that will protect swingarm bearings, and prevent mud from collecting on the engine, I recommend it :)

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Be careful with over loctiting the clevis shock bolt.
Torqued properly but rounded when removing just now, even though the first few turns were ok.

I had to use a bolt extractor in the end. It was so glued in that I broke my die handle and had to then resort to a ratchet wrench and 3/8 socket to get the bastard out!
Might order two as spares.
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As a side note, my bike’s been whisper quiet since all the tweaks/checks were done.

Again though, the low BB is such a pain.
I’ve taken off my composite Burgtec pedals and fitted an ancient set of Hope F20’s because they’re 15mm versus about 17/18mm on the Burgtecs.

I’ve replaced about 14 pins on the Burgtecs in 450 miles of riding and plastic outer is slowing disappearing from rock strikes.
At least the pins are available in any decent hardware/machine shop.
 
I've fitted 145mm "pinnd" cranks, doesn't change much from my cheapo 140mm cranks but they look a lot nicer.

On my second big weekend of riding, amazing day yesterday riding spines and natural pumptracks in Digne Les Bains.

Hitting the bike parks now, massive day in Les Orres. I've done a bit of maintenance on the bike and I think my suspension has broken in properly now. I've said here before the bike isn't that plush, I take it back now having reduced my pressures a few psi front and back, and opened up the compression 1-2 clicks, the bike has been plowing through brake bumps and rough stuff.

 
In case anyone is interested in more video of riding this bike (especially since the torque/power update), I recorded some top-to-bottom-to-top footage at my local trails today (sorry for the camera angle being a smidgen lower than I’d like). I don’t pretend to be any good/fast, but this bike certainly makes you feel like you are now :)
 
On the previous ride video, where was the camera mounted. The perspective was from above the rider but surprisingly in a fixed position as if it was not mounted on a helmet.

As far as I am concerned... keep the trail footage coming. I am starting to do my riding in central Europe ( I live in Kona HI and travel for my sports) I hope to get familiar with the different riding areas. I have a trip in the works for Germany, Switzerland Italy and France late August so trying to suss out the areas.
 
Not been to hemlock on my cube yet. Might have to venture up on Wednesday. Wish my cube was as quiet as yours tho.
 
Ndanger said:
where was the camera mounted.
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Although I have used a chest mount in the past, all of the videos I’ve recorded on this bike have been with the GoPro mounted underneath the visor on my Fox Profame RS full face lid. Pic below was from today.
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KernowMTB said:
I'll risk it & report back ;)(y)
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Good news. The 750ml Compact Twist bottle fits ok. Just.!!
The top cap of the bottle misses the shock piggy back resevoir by the width of a rizla paper. Took it for a proper ride over the weekend & had no issues with interference. I'm chuffed with that. Thanks to all who contributed advice :) :)(y)

1st.jpg (y) 2nd.jpg
 
KernowMTB said:
Good news. The 750ml Compact Twist bottle fits ok. Just.!!
The top cap of the bottle misses the shock piggy back resevoir by the width of a rizla paper. Took it for a proper ride over the weekend & had no issues with interference. I'm chuffed with that. Thanks to all who contributed advice :) :)(y)

(y)
Click to expand...
On analog bike ( Commencal Meta AM) I had the same problem and it was resolved by rotating mount point and adapter on the bottle. Works fine for 3 years, might be a solution here. .
 
KernowMTB said:
Good news. The 750ml Compact Twist bottle fits ok. Just.!!
The top cap of the bottle misses the shock piggy back resevoir by the width of a rizla paper. Took it for a proper ride over the weekend & had no issues with interference. I'm chuffed with that. Thanks to all who contributed advice :) :)(y)

View attachment 165197 (y) View attachment 165198
Click to expand...
A rizla. Now there’s a measurement!

Depending on the moulding of the bottle and the lid will determine if the to cap sits high like yours or low so the fact it still fits even in the worst position it could be in is good news as I may buy one as a second or even main bottle knowing this now. The 590 always ends up finished before the end of a ride and I don’t always have drinks in the car which can be a pain.

Thanks for rolling the dice!
 
You could also buy another bottle with a different lid, I have one without the dust cover.

Well, 3rd day of bike park, the frame has done well, no issues at all. Parts have been more frustrating:

1- Centerlock rear disc came completely loose.
2- Shimano brake wouldn't accept new pads after the other ones got vaporised, had to leave some mineral oil out at the lever.
3- Rear kryptotal punctured.
4- Swapped to my spare wheel, the original Newmen one, blew 3 spokes after 2 runs bearing in mind this wheel has done a handful of rides...

So yeah, would definitely recommend DT H1700 wheels that haven't even needed a true despite a hard life.
 
Andrew8200m said:
A rizla. Now there’s a measurement!

Depending on the moulding of the bottle and the lid will determine if the to cap sits high like yours or low so the fact it still fits even in the worst position it could be in is good news as I may buy one as a second or even main bottle knowing this now. The 590 always ends up finished before the end of a ride and I don’t always have drinks in the car which can be a pain.

Thanks for rolling the dice!
Click to expand...
Lol. No worries.
Go for the 750 & you'll be fine ;)
 
After 1200 miles my rear Tacky Chan on my 177 is needing replacement. Whilst I've been happy with it so far, any recommendations as to a better replacement tyre?
 
Raptor said:
After 1200 miles my rear Tacky Chan on my 177 is needing replacement. Whilst I've been happy with it so far, any recommendations as to a better replacement tyre?
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haven't tried it, but from what I've read the Big Betty is rated as an excellent rear to match a front Magic Mary. Slower rolling than the Tacky Chan but better braking.
 
GDAS said:
haven't tried it, but from what I've read the Big Betty is rated as an excellent rear to match a front Magic Mary. Slower rolling than the Tacky Chan but better braking.
Click to expand...
+1 for the Big Betty. I run one on my hardtail with a MM up front and I really rate it. It’s a lot like a DHR2, if you like those.
 
Raptor said:
After 1200 miles my rear Tacky Chan on my 177 is needing replacement. Whilst I've been happy with it so far, any recommendations as to a better replacement tyre?
Click to expand...
If you dont mind Specialized tyres then there is the Butcher and at around £20 a pop if you shop about they are a bargain.

Besides that, Hans Damph isnt too bad either. Not a fan of the DHR2 and I have a pair of them on one of my bikes but that could just be the whack geo and the added weight of a small child on the top tube making things feel a bit sketchy.

I absolutely loved the Argotal on the rear BUT as with everything it depends where and how you ride.
 
I replaced my tacky chan with heavier casing, super downhill. Last ride ended in severe puncture, luckily the rim was spared, thanks to cushcore.
 
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