Kenevo Official 2020 Kenevo Owners Thread

[Alexbn921]

The best seals are from Push. The best damper is from avalanche suspension.

Butter smooth and bye far the best damper I've ever ridden.

 

[Jason M.]

What’s the Boxxer doing that you want to improve? I would send it to NSR racing for a damper upgrade, that will make it better in every aspect.
Or do you just want the aesthetic of the big gold Fox?
What about a Dorado instead?

Hello ebikerider I just want to have more adjustability on my charger 2.1 damper. I am currently looking at Push HC97 or avalanche.

 

[sp00n]

The dropperpost seem to be to short for me 34.9 x 160mm...i need something like 190/180 minimum,cuz i like the seatpost slam down.
Call a lot of specialized retailers but nobody know witch brand can fix in to the seat post tube.
I wonder if u know any suggestion...with out grinding the bolts of the shok-link!

Check out my overview page:

Dropper Seatposts

sp00n.net

Measure your current saddle height from the top end of your seat tube to the middle of the saddle rails, and then also measure the available space inside your seat tube. Preferably with a fixed seat tube, but a measuring tape would also work (if you manage to hit the blocking bolts).

Then enter the minimum travel you want in the first filter box, the saddle height in the second, the available space in the third, and also tick the "activator" checkbox as well. You should then see a list of the dropper seatposts that should still fit in your frame (no guarantees though!).

Grinding down the bolts gives you another 2-3cm of available space inside the seat tube.

 

[SL76]

Check out my overview page:

Dropper Seatposts

sp00n.net

Measure your current saddle height from the top end of your seat tube to the middle of the saddle rails, and then also measure the available space inside your seat tube. Preferably with a fixed seat tube, but a measuring tape would also work (if you manage to hit the blocking bolts).

Then enter the minimum travel you want in the first filter box, the saddle height in the second, the available space in the third, and also tick the "activator" checkbox as well. You should then see a list of the dropper seatposts that should still fit in your frame (no guarantees though!).

Grinding down the bolts gives you another 2-
3cm of available space inside the seat tube.

@sp00n Thank you so much 4 your suggestion!!!just order One -up components 34.9 x 180mm travel...cuz they produce the shorter dropperpost on the market...right now i got 34.9 x 160mm travel from Specialized(i dont know the brand...manic?or whatever)
I keep Finger crossed!!! the 2cm extra travel hopefully do not compromise the insertion in bike frame...with out touching the bolts.
Grazie.
""Sorry for my rusty english lenguagges"". ; )
Cheers.
SERGIO

 

[sp00n]

Prego.
The OneUp dropper post lineup is still the one with the lowest stack heights as far as I know.
I was able to fit a 170mm v1 OneUp in my S2 frame, but I did have to grind the bolts to make enough space for it.

 

[SL76]

Prego.
The OneUp dropper post lineup is still the one with the lowest stack heights as far as I know.
I was able to fit a 170mm v1 OneUp in my S2 frame, but I did have to grind the bolts to make enough space for it.

@sp00n just for the info ,today finally i recived the One-up 34,9 x 180mm travel...but cuz i didn t wont to gring the bolts in the end i decided to return it,,,also the angle between the frame and dropperpost was too close...so i didn t wont to risk it(220 Euro)...i will use the specialized Ircc 160 travel(just 7 cm out of the frame)...and with that money go to Fnale to see the EWS!!!XDXDXD

Grazie sp00n...

 

[sp00n]

Note that you could reduce the travel and thus also the total length of the OneUp dropper posts by 10mm or 20mm:

V2 DROPPER TRAVEL ADJUSTMENT

Things You Will Need 6 Travel shim pins (included with dropper) Slickoleum (included with dropper) Strap wrench (for collar if beyond hand tight) Clean cloth or rag Assembly time, approximately 10 minutes. Difficulty: Easy. Drop tuning can be done on-bike, almost tool free and without removing...

int.oneupcomponents.com

 

[sp00n]

Is there a Small Parts / Pivot Parts schematics for the Kenevo, like there is for the Levo?
Most of the parts seem to be the same, but at least the seat stays for the Kenevo are different.

I couldn't find anything on the Specialized page (not even the infos quoted below), nor in this forum.

Click above for the post

Click above for the post

 

[Jason M.]

Is there a Small Parts / Pivot Parts schematics for the Kenevo, like there is for the Levo?
Most of the parts seem to be the same, but at least the seat stays for the Kenevo are different.

I couldn't find anything on the Specialized page (not even the infos quoted below), nor in this forum.

Here you go

 

[sp00n]

Here you go

That's just the user manual though (which also came along with the bike itself) and contains none of the small / pivot parts schematics.

 

[Mcharza]

That's just the user manual though (which also came along with the bike itself) and contains none of the small / pivot parts schematics.

Try these

 

[sp00n]

Try these

Almost, these are for the Kenevo SL, not the "regular" one.
While again, some parts are shared among the bikes, others are different.

Where do you get these kind of information? Is this something only (registered) dealers have access to?

 

[Mcharza]

Almost, these are for the Kenevo SL, not the "regular" one.
While again, some parts are shared among the bikes, others are different.

Where do you get these kind of information? Is this something only (registered) dealers have access to?

Sorry for the wrong manuals, I have gotten those from here.
Hope someone has the right manuals.

 

[ebikerider]

Hello ebikerider I just want to have more adjustability on my charger 2.1 damper. I am currently looking at Push HC97 or avalanche.

I would choose Avalanche over the Push product any day.

 

[sp00n]

Hello and thank you for reaching out! Sorry to hear you aren't having any luck finding the schematics for the Kenevo! Looking into our resources the only information I am finding is the owners manual with all of the torque specs and such, but as you said it unfortunately does not show a blown up diagram of the bike itself. With that being said the pivot bolts on that bike will have their own specific part number that I am happy to provide. I am not totally sure why there is not a blown up schematic for the bike and I apologize that I do not have one to send you. I will attach the owners manual I am viewing just to make sure you have the same one. If you are worried about misplacing bolts or anything if you are taking the pivots and such apart I would advise making sure you keep the bolts organized and maybe even label them to keep from causing any issues. Again apologies that we do not have the schematic you are wanting. Please reach back out to me if you have any additional questions. Have an awesome weekend!

Herp Derp

 

[Geo Alber]

Hello, For those with Mullet Kenevos are you running the flip chip in high or low? I switched to high to lessen the increased slackness from the fork, but wondering if it might corner better in low. Also on my Ohlins DH fork it recommends 200mm of space to the lower crown for 180mm of travel.. Seems like a lot of extra stack height.

 

[cozzy]

Low. But I have a boxxer with a2c of 580mm. I recall the dh38 had a really big a2c when I was researching them.
What offset crowns did you go for out of interest?

 

[Geo Alber]

I got the 46mm offset. I think I am going to try it in low.

 

[Nikolaos Tsivis]

Hello everyone.

I had to change the cabling for the dropper post yesterday. What a pain...

Had to dismantle battery, dropper, rear wheel, chain, cranks, rear shock to loosen the cable holders on the brace, chainstay pivot, motor cover from the harness side, disconnect wiring, remove motor...

Then, figure out this loop the cable is doing within the frame. Since I had everything dismantled, I changed the cabling for the rear mech too. Finally, I put back everything together .

A good 2.5 hours start to finish.

Next buy: REVERB AXS AND FULL GX AXS EAGLE KIT.

Brgds/Nikolaos Tsivis

 

[Christian]

Hello everyone.

I had to change the cabling for the dropper post yesterday. What a pain...

Had to dismantle battery, dropper, rear wheel, chain, cranks, rear shock to loosen the cable holders on the brace, chainstay pivot, motor cover from the harness side, disconnect wiring, remove motor...

Then, figure out this loop the cable is doing within the frame. Since I had everything dismantled, I changed the cabling for the rear mech too. Finally, I put back everything together .

A good 2.5 hours start to finish.

Next buy: REVERB AXS AND FULL GX AXS EAGLE KIT.

Brgds/Nikolaos Tsivis

You will never go back to cables!

 

[cozzy]

I didn't bother with the stupid dropper cable loop going around the motor. I just poked it down the hole by the shock then hooked it up out the seattube.
It obviously reduces the amount of adjustment you have, about 3" or so, but it's set for me and is fine. Lighter lever action also without the loop.

 

[nB2000]

Hello everyone.

I had to change the cabling for the dropper post yesterday. What a pain...

Had to dismantle battery, dropper, rear wheel, chain, cranks, rear shock to loosen the cable holders on the brace, chainstay pivot, motor cover from the harness side, disconnect wiring, remove motor...

Then, figure out this loop the cable is doing within the frame. Since I had everything dismantled, I changed the cabling for the rear mech too. Finally, I put back everything together .

A good 2.5 hours start to finish.

Next buy: REVERB AXS AND FULL GX AXS EAGLE KIT.

Brgds/Nikolaos Tsivis

More on that here:
And

Build Your New Frame

support.specialized.com

There’s a cable routing pdf link there.

Maybe it’ll help someone.

 

[Nikolaos Tsivis]

More on that here:
And

Build Your New Frame

support.specialized.com

There’s a cable routing pdf link there.

Maybe it’ll help someone.

Hello and thank you!

Very nice and helpful vid but concerns a different bike.

The tip I would give is to finish the dropper post and remote assembly in full prior assembling back the motor.

I would also suggest to take a photo of the wiring on the motor prior unplugging everything, although pretty straight forward.

Brgds/Nikolaos Tsivis

 

[nB2000]

Hello and thank you!

Very nice and helpful vid but concerns a different bike.

The tip I would give is to finish the dropper post and remote assembly in full prior assembling back the motor.

I would also suggest to take a photo of the wiring on the motor prior unplugging everything, although pretty straight forward.

Brgds/Nikolaos Tsivis

Ah sorry, I'd forgotten that this forum is for both Kenevos - I'd imagine Specialized MAY have a video / manual like that for yours too. Anyhoo seems like you worked it all out fine. Quite an achievement. I was quoted 4 hours by a shop to change the brakes on a KSL because the rear involved dropping the motor.

 

[sp00n]

Ah sorry, I'd forgotten that this forum is for both Kenevos - I'd imagine Specialized MAY have a video / manual like that for yours too. Anyhoo seems like you worked it all out fine. Quite an achievement. I was quoted 4 hours by a shop to change the brakes on a KSL because the rear involved dropping the motor.

I changed the rear brake hose without removing the motor, it works, but is a bit finicky.
The dropper post cable on the other hand was a total PITA. I did eventuall manage to route it without removing the motor as well, but it is something I want to avoid at all costs in the future if not absolutely necessary.

I'm also attaching the PDF that helped me do it here. I found it someplace in this forum, and while it's not for the Kenevo specifically, the MY2019 Levo uses the same cable routing.

Also, this video shows the PITA procedure with the motor still installed:

 

[cozzy]

I upgraded from my boxxer thanks to the merlin sale with 45% off a set of fox 40's
Some 2022 grip2 29" with a 52mm offset for £1099. OEM so no stickers. I can live with that.
Didn't need them, but I do love a bargain.

I may look at getting it dropped to 190 or 180mm but will ride it first to see. Although not for a few months as I don't ride in the winter.

I have had to change the brake adaptor as I didn't realise that rockshok postmounts are for a 200mm disk & fox for 203mm.
Such a good bike. The pole voima will likely be the next one, but for now, this is just brilliant.

And my dh bike, just because.

 

[Dpickin1]

I rode the stock suspension for 2.5 years as it was totally decent unless you have tried custom tuned setups. With the stock setup, I would constantly blow through the rear travel on smallish drops and was always paranoid about that.

^ few months ago I splurged and got an E-Storia which was a ridiculous upgrade and worth every penny. Recently I converted my Boxxer to a custom coil setup through a local tuner and holy shit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is a different bike. It makes riding soooooo much better as it is literally ready and capable of dealing with anything that comes along. Confidence inspiring is the best way to put it. It is like good brakes that you do not have to think about because they just work every time (Saints with 220 rotors for the win)! One less thing to think about and get distracted.

To anyone on the fence as to whether suspension upgrades are a worthwhile upgrade, I would say YES THEY ARE.

 

[Waverid]

I would choose Avalanche over the Push product any day.

Agreed on Avalanche over Push. I used to work with Daren at a bike shop and reached out to get product suggestions and he never replied after several atttempts. I did a factory rebuild of a fox float rear shock for my stumpjumper. It was meh. I sent the same shock to Craig at Avalanche. He answered my emails, answered my phone calls, and made that same fox float feel leagues better. I felt like the bike had 10mm more travel and rarely bottomed.

Now I own a Kenevo w/ Craig's custom rear coil over. It increased travel to 190mm and the last 10mm is bump stop. Shock feels amazing. When I redo the fork I will absolutely have Craig's damper system and hybrid spring installed.

Go with Avalanche.

 

[sp00n]

Has anyone tried fitting a 38t chainring on the Kenevo?
I have a 36t, which is already pretty close to the chainstay, so it might not fit at all.

 

[Alexbn921]

Has anyone tried fitting a 38t chainring on the Kenevo?
I have a 36t, which is already pretty close to the chainstay, so it might not fit at all.

I don't think it would fit. Even a 36 is pushing it. My 34x10 tops out around 29mph. Not sure how much more you need.