Cube one77 2025

Thanks for the replied everyone, very helpful!

I'll have to weigh up the cost of the base model + suspension upgrades vs the next model up.

To be honest I'm happy with the basic 36 Rhythm on my current bike so will also look into how the Float AWL compares to that (and if the AWL would take the Marz Z1 coil conversion kit as I really miss my old Marz 66 coil forks)

Still got a good while to think about it anyway, as I said it wouldn't be until the new year if I do decide to go electric.
 
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MeatBike said:
Thanks for the replied everyone, very helpful!

I'll have to weigh up the cost of the base model + suspension upgrades vs the next model up.

To be honest I'm happy with the basic 36 Rhythm on my current bike so will also look into how the Float AWL compares to that (and if the AWL would take the Marz Z1 coil conversion kit as I really miss my old Marz 66 coil forks)

Still got a good while to think about it anyway, as I said it wouldn't be until the new year if I do decide to go electric.
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No probs mate. This place is amazing for any info, help, advice and general chat about this bike.
Keep an eye out for posts on here as they are always useful and can help with your decision come the time you're ready to pull the trigger.
 
SIG84 said:
No probs mate. This place is amazing for any info, help, advice and general chat about this bike.
Keep an eye out for posts on here as they are always useful and can help with your decision come the time you're ready to pull the trigger.
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Definitely, I read through all 33 pages and it's a goldmine of info! Seems like a really great community of riders who have the Cube (and I'm sure it's the same for the other manufacturer sections too) :)
 
mintyjim said:
Not seen this version before and now I have a 180 air shaft I can’t return because it’s out of the bag and now slathered in suspension grease.
Not a happy bunny.
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You have the Fox 38 Rhythm, which uses a different air shaft, 180mm available for that one also.
 
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Any tips on how to remove the dropper? I tried pulling there is not enough cable movement to allow that.
Do I need to open the headset? Tried pushing with my hand but the cable doesnt seem to move inward
 
You might need to pull and feed a bit the cable near the bb where it exits and enters the frame. IMO don't force it
 
Hi Folks, first ride on my 177 today! I bought it ages ago, as I was getting to the end of my rehab for my broken shoulder and after 6 weeks off the bike, I was looking forward to getting back on it at the first Australian Sea Otter festival on the 24th October. I started pulling all the race bits off the Cube 160 that has done so well over the last 4 years and swapping the bits I didn't want from the 177 to the 160......that was fun for an old guy....I enjoyed the swapping and fitting thing! There were a few parts that need to be ordered....I need a new free hub because I wanted to run my Race Face wheels instead of the aluminium/cheese alloy wheels that come standard on Cubes. I also wanted to use the Shimano gear set and shifters as I had not used those since I swapped out my 140 back in 2021. Then the tyres had to be swapped out for the Michelin that I prefer and so on and so on. I have included a piccie of both bikes mid parts swapping. Anyway, the day after I picked up the 177, I did some crazy thing stepping over an obstacle and rolled my ankle.....but we all know that it will hurt for a few hours and by tomorrow it will be starting to get back to normal and by the end of the week, good to go...........right? Maybe not......the MRI said two tendons torn away from their mounting points and the anterior ligament with major tear, possibly needing surgery! Surgeon says 3-6 mth recovery! Got a second opinion from a sports physiologist who works with rugby players, etc and after he has worked his magic, we are now 7 weeks in and I did my first ride today....no surgery, no treatment other than a machine called a "Game Ready" (so many good jokes in there.......) and a "boot". Road riding only for a month, building effort and distance and then slowly back on the trails by Xmas! Anyway, liked the 177 today. All the stuff I swapped works well but I hate the flat bars so some 30 mm rise bars on the way and I need to do some fine tuning on levers and seat post, but so happy to be back on it.......now can we get to the last two races of 2025 in mid-December?????
IMG_4863.jpeg
 
GrantCube said:
Hi Folks, first ride on my 177 today! I bought it ages ago, as I was getting to the end of my rehab for my broken shoulder and after 6 weeks off the bike, I was looking forward to getting back on it at the first Australian Sea Otter festival on the 24th October. I started pulling all the race bits off the Cube 160 that has done so well over the last 4 years and swapping the bits I didn't want from the 177 to the 160......that was fun for an old guy....I enjoyed the swapping and fitting thing! There were a few parts that need to be ordered....I need a new free hub because I wanted to run my Race Face wheels instead of the aluminium/cheese alloy wheels that come standard on Cubes. I also wanted to use the Shimano gear set and shifters as I had not used those since I swapped out my 140 back in 2021. Then the tyres had to be swapped out for the Michelin that I prefer and so on and so on. I have included a piccie of both bikes mid parts swapping. Anyway, the day after I picked up the 177, I did some crazy thing stepping over an obstacle and rolled my ankle.....but we all know that it will hurt for a few hours and by tomorrow it will be starting to get back to normal and by the end of the week, good to go...........right? Maybe not......the MRI said two tendons torn away from their mounting points and the anterior ligament with major tear, possibly needing surgery! Surgeon says 3-6 mth recovery! Got a second opinion from a sports physiologist who works with rugby players, etc and after he has worked his magic, we are now 7 weeks in and I did my first ride today....no surgery, no treatment other than a machine called a "Game Ready" (so many good jokes in there.......) and a "boot". Road riding only for a month, building effort and distance and then slowly back on the trails by Xmas! Anyway, liked the 177 today. All the stuff I swapped works well but I hate the flat bars so some 30 mm rise bars on the way and I need to do some fine tuning on levers and seat post, but so happy to be back on it.......now can we get to the last two races of 2025 in mid-December?????View attachment 170541
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Oh, sorry....the bike is/was a 177 race 800 and is now fitted with fox 38 fork, fox float X Performance elite shock, Shagura brakes, etc
 
1000029905.jpg


Hi
This is my One77 TM 2025. I'm 174cm tall and I deliberately chose size L. I like the seatpost angled downwards, so every frame "shortens" a bit. I don't like high cockpits, though. Instead of changing spacers, I turned the stem upside down, and now it's fine. I also don't like matte paint, but I covered the bike with protective film and now it shines :)

I was wondering what to do with the drivetrain, but I ended up replacing the derailleur, cassette, and chain from GX Axs with Shimano 5100/XT shifter/KMC chain. It works just as well as the electronics and costs a fraction of the price of Axs.

I also replaced the tires with Maxxis Assegai 2.6 exo+.

As for the cranks, I'll probably replace them with shorter ones, but I'll test them out for a while.
 
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A couple of days ago, I can across a post that had a diagram of the headset cups and which way to position them for slack or steep....now I cant find it! Anybody else seen it and can point me in the right direction?
 
I lifted this from the Acros website

Slacker steering angle 63.8° (more stable)
The upper cup notch faces towards the rider
The lower cup notch faces the direction of travel

Steeper steering angle 64.4° (quicker steering)
The upper cup notch faces the direction of travel
The lower cup notch faces towards the rider

1762323194012.png
 
Beaker2135 said:
I lifted this from the Acros website

Slacker steering angle 63.8° (more stable)
The upper cup notch faces towards the rider
The lower cup notch faces the direction of travel

Steeper steering angle 64.4° (quicker steering)
The upper cup notch faces the direction of travel
The lower cup notch faces towards the rider

View attachment 170614
Click to expand...
thats the one!..........THANKYOU!!!!
 
Quite a way off if I get one, but what part is needed to allow you to use a normal stem and spacers?
 
You can run a normal stem and spacers without changing anything but if you want to tidy the head set up this post has the info you need

Cube one77 2025
 
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Just spacers, but you probably need a minimum of 2cm of them to leave space for all the cables going into the headset.
 
Any tips/tricks to silence the rattling motor cover? Double sided tape? Voodoo? We are talking about the stock cover, not the fancy skid plate.
 
Kepa said:
Any tips/tricks to silence the rattling motor cover? Double sided tape? Voodoo? We are talking about the stock cover, not the fancy skid plate.
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Not sure how the cover fits but I would imagine 3M VHB tape would work. I used it to stick the downtube protector back on my Roscoe and it hasn't budged since.

 
I had a closer look at the cover and found the culprit: the only screw holding the cover in place was loose. Some loctite should do the trick 👍

I also have the same strategy as Davvee, couple of straps to secure the cover, though it has never fallen.. and the upper strap also secures the battery cable for headlight.

In bike bikeparks I tape the battery cover in place —> keeps the mud and especially the water outside between the rides, you know, power washing before entering the gondola.
 
Kepa said:
I had a closer look at the cover and found the culprit: the only screw holding the cover in place was loose. Some loctite should do the trick 👍

I also have the same strategy as Davvee, couple of straps to secure the cover, though it has never fallen.. and the upper strap also secures the battery cable for headlight.

In bike bikeparks I tape the battery cover in place —> keeps the mud and especially the water outside between the rides, you know, power washing before entering the gondola.
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FYI, both the plastic white thing at the bottom can be pushed in/out, and the screw at the top can be screwed in/out. You can adjust these to get the cover really tight, personally I haven't had any rattling from the cover all year.
 
Kepa said:
Any tips/tricks to silence the rattling motor cover? Double sided tape? Voodoo? We are talking about the stock cover, not the fancy skid plate.
Click to expand...
I have this stuff - from work - it's the Bee's Knees Toffee Tape. It's a very tacky sticky resin. Quite thick. Like a super glue double tape.
 
Hi, I have a question about the 100nm update. After updating, I have 750W available, but only 85nm. I've searched the forum and saw that this topic has been discussed before, but I haven't found an answer on how to fix the problem. Reinstalling and deleting the bike from the app didn't help. Has anyone found a solution to this problem?
 
kubus177 said:
Hi, I have a question about the 100nm update. After updating, I have 750W available, but only 85nm. I've searched the forum and saw that this topic has been discussed before, but I haven't found an answer on how to fix the problem. Reinstalling and deleting the bike from the app didn't help. Has anyone found a solution to this problem?
Click to expand...
Did you actually uninstall and re-install the app? Or did you just remove the bike and then add it again?
Only asking this, as uninstalling the app and re-installing it worked for my illusive 100nm update.
 
Eyuplad said:
Did you actually uninstall and re-install the app? Or did you just remove the bike and then add it again?
Only asking this, as uninstalling the app and re-installing it worked for my illusive 100nm update.
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Yes, i did everything that's you said
 
AFAIK some bikes need to be authorised by Bosch to allow the 100Nm
Ask your local dealer and get them to connect the bike to Bosch system
 
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