Annoying Rattle from Turbo Levo

[thewrx]

I have a new model turbo levo (base model) and have quite an annoying rattle in the lower part of the frame somewhere. Its become very noticeable recently, previously it was just apparent riding on single-track, now it rattles at the slightest imperfection or seam on the road. I can't replicate the rattle off the bike, even with a rubber hammer its not audible. My guess is its something with the brose motor, but there doesn't appear to be any issues like squealing like the other youtube videos of common motor issues.

Thoughts? suggestions on what I should check or diagnose or check? I hate having my bike at the shop for weeks for stupid issues with a bikeshop that doesn't know about these bikes.

-d

 

[gipsy]

Check front wheel spacers...

 

[laustin956]

mine was the seat rails on post

 

[Mikerb]

Probably the most common cause of a rattling noise on a levo is the headset which is easy to strip and reset....I know you said you thought it was coming from the bottom of the frame though so check the brass screw that holds the battery in place and the small bolts that secure the motor covers. As above the torque spacers on the front wheel can rattle, again easily rectified by packing a bit of grease behind them. Failing that the only other cause of a rattle low on the frame I can think of would be if the cable clip of the motor to battery cable is loose. You can easily check that by removing the non drive side crank and motor cover.

 

[Simoto123]

I had a rattle that sounded something like cable tap, it developed after a couple of hundred miles. It was a sharper sound though, more of a crack than a tap. In common with what mikerb says, my issue turned out to be the headset.

 

[Letford]

Check the cassette mines always coming loose and rattling.

 

[Mikerb]

I think the reason for the headset rattle is that is takes a bit of riding before the sealed bearings find their ultimate seat position. So as they do that the top cap torque reduces and you get play in the headset. I had to do mine twice over about 150 miles but since then I have not had to touch it. Setting the top cap torque is not as simple as with cone bearings because you can continue increasing torque without seizing the steering. So you need to tighten only until you have removed any play and the best way to test that it to hold where the headset meets the fork yoke, apply the front brake and rock the bike back and forwards against the brake. A good final test is to lift and drop the front end of the bike. There should be no rattle!!

 

[thewrx]

so think i found it, or at least one of the major rattles. The damn cassette! The 3-4 largest sprockets were just rattling away. Once I took off the rear wheel and checked each sprocket they are loosy goosy.

I was planning on going with a DH cassette and derailleur for a tighter gear spread, but not 2 weeks before xmas dammit. Probably just get a new chain, and stock rear cassette for now, and go ahead put on my 2+ praxis front that I have laying around.

 

[thewrx]

How likely do you think it is that I have stripped my free hub???? I was reading that most of the cassette rings ride directly on the free-hub, vs just the first few.

 

[Mikerb]

If its an XD driver all the sprockets are joined together...ie the cassette is one piece. The splines of the XD driver only engage on the large sprocket end of the cassette not through all sprockets like a shimano driver/cassette.

 

[KennyB]

My 2020 Comp is Shimano type so doubt the base is XD.

 

[Mikerb]

My 2020 Comp is Shimano type so doubt the base is XD.

Ah...you are right!. It is probably a SRAM PG 1130 cassette which is non XD. So a fully splined driver. In that case the OP has either had the lock ring come loose or the cassette was installed wrong in the first place ( missing spacer washers).

 

[Glen]

I had loose cassette & it made a dreadful sound until I tightened it. Also, not so much a rattle but the specialized dropper post can clunk a little in the seat post part of the frame.

 

[Mikerb]

There seems to be differing views on how much torque to apply to the locknut. SRAM and Park Tools say 40nm....others say just tweak it up!

 

[Binhill1]

I think the reason for the headset rattle is that is takes a bit of riding before the sealed bearings find their ultimate seat position. So as they do that the top cap torque reduces and you get play in the headset. I had to do mine twice over about 150 miles but since then I have not had to touch it. Setting the top cap torque is not as simple as with cone bearings because you can continue increasing torque without seizing the steering. So you need to tighten only until you have removed any play and the best way to test that it to hold where the headset meets the fork yoke, apply the front brake and rock the bike back and forwards against the brake. A good final test is to lift and drop the front end of the bike. There should be no rattle!!

Play in my headset on levo expert tightening not taking it out and bolt is pretty tight . Can't believe the condition of bearing cups etc after 1200miles . Is there a detailed online manual anywhere no mention of the headset at all in one I got with bike

 

[Mikerb]

I found unlike cup and cone bearing types that the adjuster bolt does not stiffen the steering and therefore determine how much torque to apply. To remove the play it was certainly more than I havd experienced on previous bikes. If you cannot get rid of the play maybe you need a new star nut because it is slipping.

 

[Binhill1]

I found unlike cup and cone bearing types that the adjuster bolt does not stiffen the steering and therefore determine how much torque to apply. To remove the play it was certainly more than I havd experienced on previous bikes. If you cannot get rid of the play maybe you need a new star nut because it is slipping.

Yes I've never had any problems with tightening a headset. This is a new set up no star nut it bolts to the bottom of the swat tool holder tighten it from below. I'm thinking top bearing may be worn okay till 3 rides ago .

 

[thewrx]

Yes ended up being stripped cassette on the inside splined hub side, combined with that almost all the sprox are just separated with plastic spacers. Oh and chain was stretched pretty bad too.

Got a new sun 46/11 cassette, kmc chain, and praxis 36 tooth; and back riding hill country trails.

 

[Binhill1]

Yes I've never had any problems with tightening a headset. This is a new set up no star nut it bolts to the bottom of the swat tool holder tighten it from below. I'm thinking top bearing may be worn okay till 3 rides ago .

Turns out needed bigger spacer in head stack due to wear in bearing not great after 6 months really.