No prices were quoted in your post.
Dji avinox- Amflow - Discussion
- Thread starter Farmernz
- Start date
Yes I did NOK use a currency converter.
What are US and UK prices for bikes that comply with Norwegian warranty regulations?
RickBullotta
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
I'm a bit confused about weight specs. They claim a 19.2 kg weight for the pro build, but in the USA, only the 800wh battery is available. I was under the impression that the lower weight was only with the 600wh battery. Anyone have any insights?
Possibly I have misunderstood what you mean, but what I am trying to say is that if the bike is bought in another country, Norwegian warranty do not apply, which are the best in the world, now that the prices are about the same and it is sold by a Norwegian dealer, it could be interesting. There are several who have imported from China and are trying to flip them but no one wants to buy since Norwegian warranty will not apply.
The build quality of that battery is embarrassing.
I got the Carbon Pro in February 800Wh, Large. I weighed it at just under 21KG with pedals and not set up tubeless.
Bogdan_CH
Active member
I'm literally curious what makes you say this.
Albertocsoares
Active member
Mine weighed 21.2 kg, with pedals, CushCore in the rear, and liquid in both tires
You're wrong, you only have to remove all the stickers and you'll realize that it's assembled quite efficiently. It is tightened with two bolts for the entire length, excellent soldering and welding of the elements. Nothing is clear from the picture, at first it also seemed very simple to me.
I see where you're concerned about battery quality which is important! It’s always good to be aware of how well they are made. I’m curious, though, what specifically led you to that conclusion about the battery's quality from just the photo, so I can see if there’s something I might have missed
Higher expectations.
It's a very sturdy thing. Everything is normal
There are two huge full-length bolts. Everything is very tightly held together
I guess if you're okay with it that's all that matters. Good luck.
Gauss Guzzler
Member
Guys, don't feed the trolls. They'll always double-down with their nonsense.
If you have anything constructive to say. Say it. Otherwise your dentist buddies and The Levo Thread is that way ------->
xtraman122
Well-known member
Yeah what a weirdo this guy is. Just drops ominous thoughts with zero actual reasoning behind forming any of those opinions. I’d argue you couldn’t possibly even asses the quality of a battery based on that little information in a picture.
Yes and aptly nicknamed, the comments posted by "weirdo guy" seem to indicate an agenda rather than than reliable information about the actual subject. A shame to see what is a waste of time, with comments are not constructive or objective.Yeah what a weirdo this guy is. Just drops ominous thoughts with zero actual reasoning behind forming any of those opinions. I’d argue you couldn’t possibly even asses the quality of a battery based on that little information in a picture.
RickBullotta
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
I'm dangerously close to pulling the trigger on a Pro build. The only remaining question is the wheelset/hubs. Does anyone know if they OEM a name brand hub or is some in-house or off brand hub?
They are an in inhouse hub. I'm not a fan. I kept the front carbon rim and replaced the hub. I got a 27.5 Raceface Alloy rear wheel and fitted a DT Swiss 350 clone rear hub, as I wanted a mullet. So carbon front. Alloy rear.
But it was less than AUD$150 to replace both hubs. I laced them up myself.
But it was less than AUD$150 to replace both hubs. I laced them up myself.
pretty sure I found where they buy them from, a guy posted the link at this site. Xaimen is the name I believe, and its their ultra light hubs. I have no problem with their hubs.
Was going to go that route and lace my own caron rim. Then someone posted a EX 1700 27.5 for 80 bucks on ebay. was a take off never used and true. So im doing the same as you. Less me keeping the stock front hub.
Not a brand well known if the information I found is credible. But he quality s there. They use good bearings and it would not hold me back.
The spokes are a little too light in the rear, I relaced my wheel with Sapim Strong spokes and I quit breaking them. The factory spokes are identical to dt swiss alpine 3s double butted and a Sapim spoke you cannot find replacements for. Other than Amflow can sell you some.
JuliusVonFelden
New Member
Hello Amflow Customer Support,
I'm considering using the Amflow Carbon Pro mainly as a commuter. I'm wondering if I can fit a lighter, shorter travel fork? I'll be on size medium and I am 65kg.
Thanks, JVF
I'm considering using the Amflow Carbon Pro mainly as a commuter. I'm wondering if I can fit a lighter, shorter travel fork? I'll be on size medium and I am 65kg.
Thanks, JVF
@JuliusVonFelden
I am currently struggeling with the same bike setup: primarily as touring machine for flatland use. My problem is mainly the "front shifted" seating position of nowadays trail/enduro bikes. Front shifted here: the horizontal distance of seating position relative to the bottom bracket. The smaller this distance is the more you of your upper body weight you are forced to support by your hands and this can lead to numbness in your hands really fast. So if you shorten your front suspension your upper body will be further tilted to the front with its mentioned implications. While this can be somewhat remedied by heightening the handlebar this comes with worse aerodynamics. Besides, for each centimeter of front suspension missing you loose roughly a third of a cm of bottom bracket height which also may come with nasty surprises if leaning into curves while pedaling and riding a plushy setup. Maybe better to up the pressure of your fork or use volume spacers to reduce travel instead of putting a shorter fork in.
I am currently struggeling with the same bike setup: primarily as touring machine for flatland use. My problem is mainly the "front shifted" seating position of nowadays trail/enduro bikes. Front shifted here: the horizontal distance of seating position relative to the bottom bracket. The smaller this distance is the more you of your upper body weight you are forced to support by your hands and this can lead to numbness in your hands really fast. So if you shorten your front suspension your upper body will be further tilted to the front with its mentioned implications. While this can be somewhat remedied by heightening the handlebar this comes with worse aerodynamics. Besides, for each centimeter of front suspension missing you loose roughly a third of a cm of bottom bracket height which also may come with nasty surprises if leaning into curves while pedaling and riding a plushy setup. Maybe better to up the pressure of your fork or use volume spacers to reduce travel instead of putting a shorter fork in.
JuliusVonFelden
New Member
Thank you for your reply. This analysis of the issue is very insightful and instructive, and makes me aware of the impacts on the kinematics that will effect how the bike rides. Appreciated.
Have you tried replacing a spoke ? What an amazing PITA. I think they must have used locktite at the nipples. A nightmare to remove.
Also a local bike shop tried to service the hub, and struggled to get parts. Maybe things have changed.
So sure they work fine. But I want a hub I can get parts easily and cheaply from an online store. I use the Koozer Hubs. The Koozer 350, is a DT Swiss 350 clone. I did a thread on them. They have been fantastic. All spares, (bearings and freehub) available on Aliexpress.
This is my Koozer 350 after 1000km on the Amflow. Everything in perfect order. Just re-greased and reassembled.
singletrackminded
Active member
I ran the update today. It was somthing like 00.13---(I did not right it down).
singletrackminded
Active member
I typical use as specific tool, an in-line slim coupler, where I can cut the exting hose at the caliper and attach the new brake hose to it and pull in the old hose to pull through the new one. I have notice with the Amflow that the exising hose does not want to move easily( lots of resistance). Do you think this alternate approach would work, short of dropping the motor? Trying to keep it as simple as possible.
@ singletrackminded
Replaced the brake hoses a while ago and noticed (I did remove the motor first) that the rear brake hose was bunched together with the sensor cable using cable ties. So if you just pull the the hoses blindly theres a good chance the coupler will drag the cable binder with it and damage the sensor cable. Motor removal is easy, nothing complicated here.
Replaced the brake hoses a while ago and noticed (I did remove the motor first) that the rear brake hose was bunched together with the sensor cable using cable ties. So if you just pull the the hoses blindly theres a good chance the coupler will drag the cable binder with it and damage the sensor cable. Motor removal is easy, nothing complicated here.
