100% because it is a trail bike, not an enduro or DH bike
Dji avinox- Amflow - Discussion
- Thread starter Farmernz
- Start date
xtraman122
Well-known member
Well it’s not an Enduro focused bike so I don’t know why they’d be comparing it to those.
Came across a guy on a PL Carbon on the weekend, who had fitted 170mm Fox Podium Forks, Fox DHX2 Coil shock, Mulleted DT Swiss Carbon wheels, Hope Gravity Stem, Gold TRP Evo pro brakes and Renthal Carbon Bar.
He pulled up next to me doing a stopie and pivoted 180 degrees, so had some experience. We chatted for about 10 min about our bikes. His comment was he felt he had created the best Enduro EMTB he had ridden, but he could definitely feel some flex in the frame, that was far less on his Mondraker Enduro MTB.
He actually didn't mind the flex. But what he felt made it the best, was the lightness, and the power out of the corners. The lightness enabled him throw the bike around quicker like his MTBs. The power out of corners enabled him to close gaps with others in front.
Out of the box the Amflow is a Trail bike, with Enduro capability. But the bike can made very Enduro capable, very easily, but the frame is not Enduro stiff. For some that is a positive. Others a negative.
I always say the same. For 90% of riders, the Amflow can be easily upgraded to out bike them. They will never out ride it. But if charging downhill is your jiz. The Amflow will do it fine, but other bikes designed for this riding, will do it better.
My comment to this guy with his PL Carbon, was this. Great bike. But for what he spent. He should have started with the Black/Gold PL Carbon Pro.
Oh BTW. He was running Maxxis Minnion DHR 2, with DD casings on both back and front. I thought this a little odd, as the Assegai is a brilliant front tyre.
He pulled up next to me doing a stopie and pivoted 180 degrees, so had some experience. We chatted for about 10 min about our bikes. His comment was he felt he had created the best Enduro EMTB he had ridden, but he could definitely feel some flex in the frame, that was far less on his Mondraker Enduro MTB.
He actually didn't mind the flex. But what he felt made it the best, was the lightness, and the power out of the corners. The lightness enabled him throw the bike around quicker like his MTBs. The power out of corners enabled him to close gaps with others in front.
Out of the box the Amflow is a Trail bike, with Enduro capability. But the bike can made very Enduro capable, very easily, but the frame is not Enduro stiff. For some that is a positive. Others a negative.
I always say the same. For 90% of riders, the Amflow can be easily upgraded to out bike them. They will never out ride it. But if charging downhill is your jiz. The Amflow will do it fine, but other bikes designed for this riding, will do it better.
My comment to this guy with his PL Carbon, was this. Great bike. But for what he spent. He should have started with the Black/Gold PL Carbon Pro.
Oh BTW. He was running Maxxis Minnion DHR 2, with DD casings on both back and front. I thought this a little odd, as the Assegai is a brilliant front tyre.
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unfortunately non standard: Buy Amflow PL Headset - AMFLOW Store
Albertocsoares
Active member
Yesterday, while riding with a friend on his Amflow (trying to keep up with him—that thing flies!), he fell on a tight turn. When we tried to lift the bike, the motor kept spinning along with the wheel. He turned it off and on to try to reset it, but the wheel kept running and the bike kept trying to shift.
We figured out what happened: when he fell, he pressed the shifter unintentionally, and due to the Free Shift function, the bike kept trying to complete the shifting procedure.
I found that a bit dangerous — it could hurt your fingers or hand in the process. It should only shift when the bike is moving upright, not when it’s lying on the ground and being lifted.
We figured out what happened: when he fell, he pressed the shifter unintentionally, and due to the Free Shift function, the bike kept trying to complete the shifting procedure.
I found that a bit dangerous — it could hurt your fingers or hand in the process. It should only shift when the bike is moving upright, not when it’s lying on the ground and being lifted.
That's not how the free shift works. The derailleur must actually shift and draw power from the motor, to cause the motor to run. He has damaged something when he fell for the motor to continue running.
If the derailleur is drawing power continuously and continuously trying to shift. It has been damaged. It shouldn't keep trying to complete the shift. Mine certainly doesn't, if the shift can't be made, because the wheel is stationary. The derailleur just moves, leaving the chain on the wrong gear. I just press shift again when the wheel can move, and the chain shift 2 gears. Just turn the bike off, disconnect the derailleur cable, and take it to a bike shop that services SRAM transmission.
If you disconnect the derailleur and the motor still tries to run. Then you have damaged the motor or the cable. You need to take it to an Avinox dealer.
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John_likes_bikes
Well-known member
It could be he damaged the shifter and it continuously sent a signal to shift. Free shift only spins the wheel for a set time when triggered.
The other thing I've seen is when the derailleur positioner is damaged, and the derailleur keeps moving, thinking it's been impacted, and trying to move back into the correct position.
Each time it moves, triggers the motor to spool.
Each time it moves, triggers the motor to spool.
exactly. That is why I ordered Velduro so I can enjoy a 170/170mm setup ... somehow an e-dh bike
'At least" maybe you should ask a credible question.
will never exist in reality, you are asking them to answer an imaginative question.
That is also imagination based since software may not solve the issue
They have addressed the rattle already, and later models do not have the same issue as earlier releases.
BULLSHIT. They rattle.
John_likes_bikes
Well-known member
After now putting a few hundred miles on the "newer" version of the Avinox and really trying to pay attention to motor noise I'm confident saying what I hear isn't a rattle in the sense of what we're used to from past motors, ep801 for example. It's silent in braking bumps, smaller repetitive type trail input, where older motors distinctly rattled. What I hear is more of a clunk, like what we talk about with the clutch engaging on hard, square impacts. Slightly different and more distinct than what you get with the Sidekick (which will affect my overall experience with noise) but similar to my ear as a comparison. Drops/jumps with "proper" lands or I don't go to flat are silent, landing flat you get the clunk.
I think the randomness of the motor noise, infrequent rather than all the time, actually makes it more noticable. Where as when I ran an ep801 it rattled in a slight breeze, the noise was constant no matter the terrain and eventaully blended into the background.
I think the randomness of the motor noise, infrequent rather than all the time, actually makes it more noticable. Where as when I ran an ep801 it rattled in a slight breeze, the noise was constant no matter the terrain and eventaully blended into the background.
Hey team,
Hope you are well
I’m getting a DJI bike soon (Rogue) and the wheel set I was planning on using has Centerlock rotors. Has anyone fitted the speed sensor disc to a centerlock rotor? I assumed it was 6 bolt only, but watching a Megamo video I see this;
Might just be sandwiched in?
Hope you are well
I’m getting a DJI bike soon (Rogue) and the wheel set I was planning on using has Centerlock rotors. Has anyone fitted the speed sensor disc to a centerlock rotor? I assumed it was 6 bolt only, but watching a Megamo video I see this;Might just be sandwiched in?
Yes it is. The brake surface and socket of centerlock brake disc is planar (at least the left looking side) so a sandwiched sensor ring comes to rest exactly the same distance to the sensor as it would be if it is mounted on a 6-bolt disc.Hey team,
Hope you are well
View attachment 168938
Might just be sandwiched in?
It's not a magnetic plate. So as long as the distance to the speed sensor on the frame, is the same as a 6 bolt hub, which it should be if you sandwich it against the rotor. It will work fine.
Hey guys,
so I had a fairly low speed crash into a tree stump on my amflow pl yesterday and after an inspection of the bike I found no sign visible sign of frame damage. Probably rode for about another 15-20 mins after that. Anyway when I got home after my ride I realised the headset was a bit loose. I've taken the bike into my LBS as the down shift paddle was also loose and wouldn't down shift, but unfortunately they wont get to look at it till tomorrow and was wondering what the likelihood of the headtube area been damaged from the crash? I've gathered that Amflow warranty doesn't cover the frame incase of a crash. Just hoping its all good as I have only had the bike for 7 weeks.
so I had a fairly low speed crash into a tree stump on my amflow pl yesterday and after an inspection of the bike I found no sign visible sign of frame damage. Probably rode for about another 15-20 mins after that. Anyway when I got home after my ride I realised the headset was a bit loose. I've taken the bike into my LBS as the down shift paddle was also loose and wouldn't down shift, but unfortunately they wont get to look at it till tomorrow and was wondering what the likelihood of the headtube area been damaged from the crash? I've gathered that Amflow warranty doesn't cover the frame incase of a crash. Just hoping its all good as I have only had the bike for 7 weeks.
If no visible damage, you are probably fine. You would have heard it break if it did, makes a hell of a noise
The factory specs are loose enough on slow impacts things give a little. You are probably fine. And did the right thing, Not riding it further and having it looked at
Right there. But they offer a crash replacement that is cheaper than full price
Oh that's good to know. I wasn't that worried until the young fella at my bikeshop said he needs to check it because the carbon is weak or something along those lines. Can a loose headset cause damage while being ridden even if it was only for a short while?
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one guy here rode with it very loose, and he was over the recommended weight limit, for a long time. still riding it. did cause some paint cracks.
you? who knows. i have no idea how you rode. but im guessing you are overthinking it
dudes a fool
Mine doesn't. The noise I had was completely elim inated by sorting the brake hose and tightening up the battery bolts. My bike rides silent now.
Gordon
Can I have a pictures of entire battery, Thks
Tks a lot, could I see the PCB? Thks
Noticed today a major Norwegian bikeshop is starting to sell Amflow and spare parts which means under norvegian warranty regulations and Consumer Purchase Act which gives 5 years warranty.
Interesting
Interesting
No problem of course if the price is suitably loaded to take account of Norwegian warranty regulations.Noticed today a major Norwegian bikeshop is starting to sell Amflow and spare parts which means under norvegian warranty regulations and Consumer Purchase Act which gives 5 years warranty.
Interesting
I compared with US and UK and the price is around the same since NOK is very weak at the moment NOK 75.00 and 115.000 and the shop is not a tiny backyard shop.
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