Crestline x DJI - RS 181 SPECTRE Edition

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MTB_MIKE said:
Installed the chainring and cranks and turned the cranks on the bike stand and notice a good amount of resistance on the motor. Even back pedaling was a lot of resistance.

I haven’t turned the bike on yet since I don’t have a fork or wheels setup for it yet, I was just spinning the cranks. Do u guys notice this also? I have had an EP8, Bosch Gen 4/5, Specialized motors and none of them have any resistance when backpedaling and had very little resistance pedaling forward.

Please let me know if you guys experience the same thing or perhaps there’s something wrong here.

PS, installed the wired battery, perfect fit but I haven’t turned on the bike yet 😂, hope it works

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My cranks back pedal freely. Check the rubber boot on the back of the Helix-R crank arm. It can rub the surface behind it. Seen this on another DJI Crestline.
 
I added two layers of shrink tube to the exposed areas of the derailleur power cord because I didn’t like how dainty and vulnerable it is! The two layers of shrink tube in the two expose areas make the wire much more stiff, and obviously thicker, which makes it almost the diameter of a brake line. (Not flopping around in the wind) It looks much better in my opinion and fills the frame pass through hole better as well.
I also installed Cannondale frame cable grommets as they are much higher quality than the ones provided and I had them from a previous build.
I also didn’t like how the derailleur power wire stuck out by the drop out, which made it very vulnerable for getting snagged. So I installed a plastic cable hold down using a stainless M5-0.80 x 20 bolt that goes through the factory hollow dropout fastener, and the nylon lock nut fits perfectly inside the drop out allen fastener on the inside so you only have to tighten the bolt on the outside, while the inside dropout allen holds the nut from rotating.

IMG_2656.jpeg IMG_2653.jpeg IMG_2661.jpeg IMG_2654.jpeg IMG_2655.jpeg IMG_2659.jpeg IMG_2658.jpeg
 
AlumiPro said:
I added two layers of shrink tube to the exposed areas of the derailleur power cord because I didn’t like how dainty and vulnerable it is! The two layers of shrink tube in the two expose areas make the wire much more stiff, and obviously thicker, which makes it almost the diameter of a brake line. (Not flopping around in the wind) It looks much better in my opinion and fills the frame pass through hole better as well.
I also installed Cannondale frame cable grommets as they are much higher quality than the ones provided and I had them from a previous build.
I also didn’t like how the derailleur power wire stuck out by the drop out, which made it very vulnerable for getting snagged. So I installed a plastic cable hold down using a stainless M5-0.80 x 20 bolt that goes through the factory hollow dropout fastener, and the nylon lock nut fits perfectly inside the drop out allen fastener on the inside so you only have to tighten the bolt on the outside, while the inside dropout allen holds the nut from rotating.

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Thanks for that idea !
 
AlumiPro said:
I added two layers of shrink tube to the exposed areas of the derailleur power cord because I didn’t like how dainty and vulnerable it is! The two layers of shrink tube in the two expose areas make the wire much more stiff, and obviously thicker, which makes it almost the diameter of a brake line. (Not flopping around in the wind) It looks much better in my opinion and fills the frame pass through hole better as well.
I also installed Cannondale frame cable grommets as they are much higher quality than the ones provided and I had them from a previous build.
I also didn’t like how the derailleur power wire stuck out by the drop out, which made it very vulnerable for getting snagged. So I installed a plastic cable hold down using a stainless M5-0.80 x 20 bolt that goes through the factory hollow dropout fastener, and the nylon lock nut fits perfectly inside the drop out allen fastener on the inside so you only have to tighten the bolt on the outside, while the inside dropout allen holds the nut from rotating.

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Have you ridden it yet? Curious how you like the sidekick hub?
 
And for anyone that doesn’t like the crank arm small gap on the drive side, I took my crank gap cap to my bench belt sander and sanded it down until it would fit without rubbing the chainring lock ring.
You can see it in my previous pic.
 
Scford said:
Quick rip today, ~2200ft, little over 6 miles, mostly all boost with turbo a couple times to make the steep climb cake. Used about 32% battery.

First couple rides were 160/160 configuration. Today was 180/170 as I don’t have a 180mm airshaft at the moment. I definitely prefer the 180 setup, the 160 feels like you’re hitting a limit that shouldn’t be there. The bike just feels like it has more to give but it’s locked out.
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Nice! yeah, I see little point in the 160mm suspension setting. ..... 180mm Crestline is an exceptional thing.
 
Scford said:
Have you ridden it yet? Curious how you like the sidekick hub?
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Not yet! 😬
Finished the build late last night and playing with ALL the crazy Avinox settings this thing has!
Bleeding brakes and beading rotors today. Going to give the Galfer purple E-Bike Maven pads a try this round.
As much as I want to go rip on this thing, I don’t like to rush a new build. I want it set up as perfectly as possible for myself and the first ride.
I can already tell I am going to love the smooth/auto shift. It’s soooo cool!! One of the reasons I purchased my Anakin V2 MTB was because the gearbox it has is able to shift without peddling, which is a huge game changer for the terrain I ride.

IMG_2663.jpeg
 
For those of you installing Ride Wrap. They designed this kit without the chain stay guard installed, so the chain stay drive side Ride Wrap piece has to be cut into three different pieces and resized to accommodate the perfectly designed Crestline chain stay protection.
I also designed and cut several custom pieces for other places on the frame that Ride Wrap didn’t provide because they make their kits so you can install all the pieces without disassembling anything. I discovered on my last Crestline that due to the VPP suspension layout and the swing arm being extremely close to the shock tunnel, on a few occasions I had small rocks come off the rear tire and get jammed in between the inside of the swing arm and the outside of the shock tunnel. While the suspension is cycling the little rock will sit there and chew into the paint primer without you knowing! (It requires the perfect size little rock for this to happen) So I designed and cut Ride Wrap pieces to go on the inside of the swing arm and the outside of the shock tunnel in the hidden areas, it requires removing the upper suspension link bolt to swing the swim arm away to gain access to these areas. This proved successful on my last Crestline.
I keep the Ride Wrap backing paper from the custom cut pieces so I can recut more if need be later on.

IMG_2660.jpeg IMG_2664.jpeg
 
Anyone know how to set the time to standard 12hr? Or does it have to be set on 24hr? I can’t find how to change it and have gone through all the settings. Figured it would be in with the Units options menu.
FYI, my AXS dropper purchased with this frame already has an available firmware update…..might want to check yours.
 
AlumiPro said:
And for anyone that doesn’t like the crank arm small gap on the drive side, I took my crank gap cap to my bench belt sander and sanded it down until it would fit without rubbing the chainring lock ring.
You can see it in my previous pic.
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Suffice to say none of the 2 gap caps fit out of the box? The derailleur power cable saver is a good idea, that looked problematic flapping in the wind!

All of this is the content we need. Not some BS about other bikes and motors, and people whining about their bike being better!
 
John_likes_bikes said:
All of this is the content we need. Not some BS about other bikes and motors, and people whining about their bike being better!
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😂 AGREED.
John_likes_bikes said:
Suffice to say none of the 2 gap caps fit out of the box?
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I only had the one gap cap that came with my SRAM 90 cranks. Which was know where near large enough to go over the chainring lock ring. But after sanding it down a lot, it closes up the small gap. Which doesn’t really bother me but I had the gap cap so I figured why not.
 
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AlumiPro said:
Anyone know how to set the time to standard 12hr? Or does it have to be set on 24hr? I can’t find how to change it and have gone through all the settings. Figured it would be in with the Units options menu.
FYI, my AXS dropper purchased with this frame already has an available firmware update…..might want to check yours.
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Lol, this is driving me crazy too. Haven't figured it out yet.
 
Anyone, especially those in US, figure out how to enable Class 3 mode? Based on couple friends who also have DJI Avinox system bikes in US, Class 3 mode isn‘t there in the app.
 
AlumiPro said:
I added two layers of shrink tube to the exposed areas of the derailleur power cord because I didn’t like how dainty and vulnerable it is! The two layers of shrink tube in the two expose areas make the wire much more stiff, and obviously thicker, which makes it almost the diameter of a brake line. (Not flopping around in the wind) It looks much better in my opinion and fills the frame pass through hole better as well.
I also installed Cannondale frame cable grommets as they are much higher quality than the ones provided and I had them from a previous build.
I also didn’t like how the derailleur power wire stuck out by the drop out, which made it very vulnerable for getting snagged. So I installed a plastic cable hold down using a stainless M5-0.80 x 20 bolt that goes through the factory hollow dropout fastener, and the nylon lock nut fits perfectly inside the drop out allen fastener on the inside so you only have to tighten the bolt on the outside, while the inside dropout allen holds the nut from rotating.
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Thanks! This is very helpful, much better than bike shop build would do. Do you mind sharing detail on the plastic cable hold piece?
 
Im missing the speed limit option too. Pretty frustrating. I was texting with Troydon on Thursday about it. He said it should be there based on the current software. He said he would email dji (avinox). I haven't received an update yet.
 
I set up several things in a previous menu, one being the 28mph. But now I can’t seem to find that settings menu. Even on the phone app.
I’d like to turn off the button beep sound, I saw this option once before but can’t seem to find it now. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
AlumiPro said:
I set up several things in a previous menu, one being the 28mph. But now I can’t seem to find that settings menu. Even on the phone app.
I’d like to turn off the button beep sound, I saw this option once before but can’t seem to find it now. 🤷🏻‍♂️
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That’s right 💡…..swipe up on the screen! For more setting options…..no more beeping when I push buttons.
I took the battery from 18% to 6% beading the rotors, got them nice and hot! That was fun in the neighborhood darkness.
I also noticed the motor produces a dim blinking light that glows through the voids in the bash guard onto the ground.

IMG_2678.jpeg
 
Anyone else live in eastern U.S. states waiting for delivery? Delivery date is tomorrow but UPS tracking hasn‘t shown any progress for 5 days, last scanned was 7/30 Tacoma, WA. Seems shipment was prepared by BikeFlights.
UPS customer service is no help.
 
BikingBad said:
Anyone else live in eastern U.S. states waiting for delivery? Delivery date is tomorrow but UPS tracking hasn‘t shown any progress for 5 days, last scanned was 7/30 Tacoma, WA. Seems shipment was prepared by BikeFlights.
UPS customer service is no help.
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Reach out to Bikeflights. They are really helpful. Great company.
 
Posvar1 said:
Reach out to Bikeflights. They are really helpful. Great company.
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Bikeflights sent me same UPS tracking info I already have access to. Useless.

Update: Finally updated, arrived at neighboring state, all‘s well, whew!
 
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BikingBad said:
Anyone else live in eastern U.S. states waiting for delivery? Delivery date is tomorrow but UPS tracking hasn‘t shown any progress for 5 days, last scanned was 7/30 Tacoma, WA. Seems shipment was prepared by BikeFlights.
UPS customer service is no help.
Click to expand...
i have the same issue last scan 7/30 and still no movement as of today i called troydon he instructed me to call bike flights i get no response back from bike flights hopefully it just shows up fingers crossed lol
 
Suns_PSD said:

This High Pivot Avinox used .70watts/ meter (27m/ km). I guess DJI power (some in turbo mode) mode combined with HP drag will do that.

He also said repeatedly that the pedals were sort of to pretend pedal and that the bike, even in the lower settings just rocketed off.

There IS a pattern forming here. I'm not 100% sure yet, but I think that a Bosch with a 600watt battery with no high pivot idler BUT instead Sidekick hubs (which also roll great, further assisting in efficiency), is going to give me the right combination of <50#s (w/ coil suspension, DH tires, pedals & tools), no engine rattle, long range, built in bash guard, exceptional suspension behavior & still have a distinctly bicycle like feel for my AM trails. Still would like to see a definitive efficiency test between the upcoming CX-R vs the Avinox to know for certain.

I thought what this tester said in his comments was really interesting: "The sync phase of the power support on the Bosch is more in sync with the rider. The DJI and GoBao have a motor that sits ahead of the pedal input, so turning the power down probably won't do much. Not the Asian manufacturing style at this point, they like assistive ebikes not bikes that are assitied. I've tried enough now to say that Bosch have got the power syncing right. DJI not yet, which gives it that motor bike feel."

* worth noting is that he only used 40% of the battery, and the DJI has been known for showing less watts used at first then usage accelerating later just like Tesla does to impress the user, in a nonlinear manner.
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There's a guy on the Crestline facebook group that got 7000ft with 19% left on eco/trail. That's 2100mtr in metric terms which as wildy good. So I think the DJI can be turned down to get efficiency out of it....
 
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