Crestline x DJI - RS 181 SPECTRE Edition

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MTB_MIKE said:
In a Lab, I agree this graph is accurate. In reality, trails are undulating and your pedal input changes all the time.
Real world riding, nobody complains of a loss or drastic dip in power or motor derate with the DJI
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Exactly. With so much power and battery on tap, it's doubtful most on a DJI will have a mindfulness to ride efficiently. Cadence, optimal gear-shifting, and power settings be damned!

But slap a 400WH battery on you bike to lighten it for riding dynamics - you will be mindful about utilization. TQ motor on your bike? - you will be mindful of motor speed for optimal power delivery. It's really no surprise the DJI has little motivation to push out their lower capacity batteries. Why shoot yourself in the foot when you got a good formula out of the gate that would otherwise reveal potential inefficiencies?
 
slickrock said:
Exactly. With so much power and battery on tap, it's doubtful most on a DJI will have a mindfulness to ride efficiently. Cadence, optimal gear-shifting, and power settings be damned!

But slap a 400WH battery on you bike to lighten it for riding dynamics - you will be mindful about utilization. TQ motor on your bike? - you will be mindful of motor speed for optimal power delivery. It's really no surprise the DJI has little motivation to push out their lower capacity batteries. Why shoot yourself in the foot when you got a good formula out of the gate that would otherwise reveal potential inefficiencies?
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Yeah full power charging on a big battery is a different fish to mid power svelte riding.

But the heavier you go the more you compromise on riding dynamics. So there's less fun riding down on a bike that's heavier

There's is a market for a lighter e bike for sure. It is ideal to have both light weight an full power. Dji are missing the opportunity to option more weight savings to customers currently.

Sure you can buy a amflow trail bike at 20kg. But that ain't going to handle the torture a 180mm rider is going to put the bike through.

As this thread proves. Only 800wh available. That sucks. These Crestline ddji's are close on 2kg heavier than my Crestline with 400wh battery installed. I dont want a 52lb bike. Been there done that. Too heavy, too much front weight bias.

The great thing about full power bikes with small battery options is you can have two bikes in one. Simply slap the small battery in and you have yourself a mid power weight bike. Simply turn the power down on the bike.

Want full power inefficient charging. Throw a big battery in and go for it.

Out on a mid power ride with little battery and want to clean some tech section you can't get on the mid power setting. No problem. Smash it into full power for a frew seconds and clean that section.

Want to ride for a good time not a long time. Go full power battery burn on the small battery and enjoy mid power weight ot full mania speeds.... oh yeah.

Maybe by the time im in the market for another e dji will have small battery option's out there.
 
slickrock said:
Exactly. With so much power and battery on tap, it's doubtful most on a DJI will have a mindfulness to ride efficiently. Cadence, optimal gear-shifting, and power settings be damned!

But slap a 400WH battery on you bike to lighten it for riding dynamics - you will be mindful about utilization. TQ motor on your bike? - you will be mindful of motor speed for optimal power delivery. It's really no surprise the DJI has little motivation to push out their lower capacity batteries. Why shoot yourself in the foot when you got a good formula out of the gate that would otherwise reveal potential inefficiencies?
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The Avinox motor is a monster for sure. Have 3 rides in on my DJI Crestie so far and I’ve stayed in a de-tuned Auto mode 99% of the time, simply because the add’l gobs of power provided is not needed. I will actually de-tune Auto mode some more to increase battery efficiency.
 
freeriding said:
So this motor rattles? Let's see what other faults it has in the next 6-12 months.
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Some say motor rattles, some say it doesn’t rattle at all. Even different riders with same model bike, Amflow PL carbon or PL carbon Pro, have shared different experiences. It’s quite puzzling 🤔
 
Honestly I think it’s kinda subjective, some are more sensitive to noise than others. I don’t notice a rattle, and I didn’t really notice much of a rattle on my ep8. Another couple of my buddies have a gen 4 Bosch, none of them complain about rattle and I don’t hear it when I ride with them. So imo take it all with a grain of salt.
 
Scford said:
Honestly I think it’s kinda subjective, some are more sensitive to noise than others. I don’t notice a rattle, and I didn’t really notice much of a rattle on my ep8. Another couple of my buddies have a gen 4 Bosch, none of them complain about rattle and I don’t hear it when I ride with them. So imo take it all with a grain of salt.
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My Bosch Gen 4 and EP8 did rattle a lot. The EP8 was more of a higher pitch metal on metal rattle can sound while the Bosch was a bit more dampened rattle sound.
I ended up getting I9 Hydra hubs to help drown out the noise but pedal kickback was terrible.
 
Couple years back, I rented a Commencal Meta Power SX with Bosch CX4 motor for couple days. Lots power, great battery efficiency but significant motor rattle. On other hand, I’ve ridden friend‘s Pole Voima with same motor, no rattle. I don’t mind the sound motor makes when it’s producing power, tells me it’s working, but rattling when it’s not providing assistance is poor design.
 
Suns_PSD said:
Review this test: 30 eMTBs in Our Huge 2025 E-MOUNTAINBIKE Comparison Test: What’s the Best eMTB of the Year?

The section titled "1. Vertical Range Test".

They utilized power pedals to normalize power input (150w) and cadence (75rpm). I think the DJI has two issues: 1) it produces way more power at low cadence & low input, which isn't relevant at the numbers used above, and 2) it overheats and can end up with lower average power production on a long warm climb as shown by the Velomotion dyno results. Screenshot below. (I also acknowledge that there is a problem with this chart as it shows the 85NM Bosch at nearly the same 100NM peak as the new 100NM version!)

But the gist of it is that the Bosch bike tested (which was an anchor of a Haibike btw and about 2-3 kgs heavier than the 2 DJI bikes, the Mith & the Amflow)) climbed both faster (22 kph) AND more efficiently (44w/ 100m) under these particular circumstances than the DJI bike (Mith 50w/ 100m & Amflow 47w/ 100m, both at 21 kph). So, the Bosch bike had a higher average speed and a longer run time too (because it's 800w battery lasted longer).

It's just something to consider. The DJI powered HP bikes in particular seem awfully power hungry to me and it's left me feeling like a Bosch with Sidekick hubs instead of a DJI HP (I know the Crestline is not an HP bike) is going to get a lot more range and be a lighter package to boot. So much so that a 600watt Bosch in a 48# Regulator, might be faster and climb just as far as a 52# DJI with an 800w.

I'm just trying to figure out if I spring for the DJI, did I just add 3-4# (because it needs the larger battery) just for more streamlined looks, while also gaining significant rattle?

These thought experiments are for my own purposes as my divorce just got signed this very morning :) and I'm either buying a Spectre Crestline, or a CX-R Regulator as soon as they are available, as my Relay replacement. Yes, I obsess over this stuff!

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This High Pivot Avinox used .70watts/ meter (27m/ km). I guess DJI power (some in turbo mode) mode combined with HP drag will do that.

He also said repeatedly that the pedals were sort of to pretend pedal and that the bike, even in the lower settings just rocketed off.

There IS a pattern forming here. I'm not 100% sure yet, but I think that a Bosch with a 600watt battery with no high pivot idler BUT instead Sidekick hubs (which also roll great, further assisting in efficiency), is going to give me the right combination of <50#s (w/ coil suspension, DH tires, pedals & tools), no engine rattle, long range, built in bash guard, exceptional suspension behavior & still have a distinctly bicycle like feel for my AM trails. Still would like to see a definitive efficiency test between the upcoming CX-R vs the Avinox to know for certain.

I thought what this tester said in his comments was really interesting: "The sync phase of the power support on the Bosch is more in sync with the rider. The DJI and GoBao have a motor that sits ahead of the pedal input, so turning the power down probably won't do much. Not the Asian manufacturing style at this point, they like assistive ebikes not bikes that are assitied. I've tried enough now to say that Bosch have got the power syncing right. DJI not yet, which gives it that motor bike feel."

* worth noting is that he only used 40% of the battery, and the DJI has been known for showing less watts used at first then usage accelerating later just like Tesla does to impress the user, in a nonlinear manner.
 
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freeriding said:
I don't need an emtb and i would never put my money on a 1st gen motor like dji.
Wait till next gen, when also other companies like bosch will probably have a same style motor-battery as an alternative.
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It’s a motor with a 2 year warranty and been very reliable by all accounts. Even in UK winters.

Life is too short to wait 5 years for full maturity….. and it’s made by a tech giant with a lot of money and resources. Risks are always going to be there but I’d consider it low at this point since the motors been out for a year already
 
John_likes_bikes said:
Why is every DJI thread littered with people bringing nothing relevant to the conversation but the same regurgitate talking points of no value? It ruins these threads.
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Freeriding banned from this and the other Crestline thread for reasons you've stated. Deleted some of their posts too as they add nothing which hasn't already been discussed.

Update : He carried on being a moron, so he's gone now ....
 
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Quick rip today, ~2200ft, little over 6 miles, mostly all boost with turbo a couple times to make the steep climb cake. Used about 32% battery.

First couple rides were 160/160 configuration. Today was 180/170 as I don’t have a 180mm airshaft at the moment. I definitely prefer the 180 setup, the 160 feels like you’re hitting a limit that shouldn’t be there. The bike just feels like it has more to give but it’s locked out.
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Installed the chainring and cranks and turned the cranks on the bike stand and notice a good amount of resistance on the motor. Even back pedaling was a lot of resistance.

I haven’t turned the bike on yet since I don’t have a fork or wheels setup for it yet, I was just spinning the cranks. Do u guys notice this also? I have had an EP8, Bosch Gen 4/5, Specialized motors and none of them have any resistance when backpedaling and had very little resistance pedaling forward.

Please let me know if you guys experience the same thing or perhaps there’s something wrong here.

PS, installed the wired battery, perfect fit but I haven’t turned on the bike yet 😂, hope it works

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MTB_MIKE said:
Installed the chainring and cranks and turned the cranks on the bike stand and notice a good amount of resistance on the motor. Even back pedaling was a lot of resistance.

I haven’t turned the bike on yet since I don’t have a fork or wheels setup for it yet, I was just spinning the cranks. Do u guys notice this also? I have had an EP8, Bosch Gen 4/5, Specialized motors and none of them have any resistance when backpedaling and had very little resistance pedaling forward.

Please let me know if you guys experience the same thing or perhaps there’s something wrong here.

PS, installed the wired battery, perfect fit but I haven’t turned on the bike yet 😂, hope it works

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After a ride or two the stiffness should change dramatically.
 
Rob Rides EMTB said:
After a ride or two the stiffness should change dramatically.
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Cool, hopefully this is the case…
BTW, there’s so much opportunity for cable rattle by the motor after dropping the motor and having a look around. I ended up just taping some of the wires together and installing some wire foam (not pictured) to mitigate any potential sounds.

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I am a bit bummed that a 36t chainring is going to protrude past the bash guard.

Lots of rocky technical climbs where I live and the #1 cause of snapped chains is lightly scuffing or smacking the chainring on something and not noticing anything until one day the chain snaps for no reason.
Well the reason is you’ve compromised the chain when you lightly smacked something.

I think I’m just going to install a couple bumpons down there to hopefully take the hit.
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MTB_MIKE said:
I am a bit bummed that a 36t chainring is going to protrude past the bash guard.

Lots of rocky technical climbs where I live and the #1 cause of snapped chains is lightly scuffing or smacking the chainring on something and not noticing anything until one day the chain snaps for no reason.
Well the reason is you’ve compromised the chain when you lightly smacked something.

I think I’m just going to install a couple bumpons down there to hopefully take the hit.
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I thought several people said a 36t is safe? Dumb question but since I bought a 36t as well, what is a bump on?
 
MTB_MIKE said:
I am a bit bummed that a 36t chainring is going to protrude past the bash guard.

Lots of rocky technical climbs where I live and the #1 cause of snapped chains is lightly scuffing or smacking the chainring on something and not noticing anything until one day the chain snaps for no reason.
Well the reason is you’ve compromised the chain when you lightly smacked something.

I think I’m just going to install a couple bumpons down there to hopefully take the hit.
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I think I'd go to a 34t for the same reasons.
 
MTB_MIKE said:
Installed the chainring and cranks and turned the cranks on the bike stand and notice a good amount of resistance on the motor. Even back pedaling was a lot of resistance.

I haven’t turned the bike on yet since I don’t have a fork or wheels setup for it yet, I was just spinning the cranks. Do u guys notice this also? I have had an EP8, Bosch Gen 4/5, Specialized motors and none of them have any resistance when backpedaling and had very little resistance pedaling forward.

Please let me know if you guys experience the same thing or perhaps there’s something wrong here.

PS, installed the wired battery, perfect fit but I haven’t turned on the bike yet 😂, hope it works

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As Rob said, I've read that they loosen up significantly.
That said, some resistance always remains from what I've read and I suspect that accounts for lower efficiency.
 
MTB_MIKE said:
Installed the chainring and cranks and turned the cranks on the bike stand and notice a good amount of resistance on the motor. Even back pedaling was a lot of resistance.

I haven’t turned the bike on yet since I don’t have a fork or wheels setup for it yet, I was just spinning the cranks. Do u guys notice this also? I have had an EP8, Bosch Gen 4/5, Specialized motors and none of them have any resistance when backpedaling and had very little resistance pedaling forward.

Please let me know if you guys experience the same thing or perhaps there’s something wrong here.

PS, installed the wired battery, perfect fit but I haven’t turned on the bike yet 😂, hope it works

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Mine were/are stiff as well. I also had an ep8 and they spun pretty freely. The dji feels a lot more stiff comparatively, I was questioning myself like you are.
 
MTB_MIKE said:
Cool, hopefully this is the case…
BTW, there’s so much opportunity for cable rattle by the motor after dropping the motor and having a look around. I ended up just taping some of the wires together and installing some wire foam (not pictured) to mitigate any potential sounds.

View attachment 165613
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There’s also two spots for zip ties built into the inside of the carbon fiber frame to secure cables from rattling.
 
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