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Can you post a pic of the "yoke" part you refer to as coming loose, please?It’s written on the bolts.
General suggestion is to loosen off the shock and frame pivot bolts enough to put some thread lock in where the end of the bolt will screw back in to. Then, once torqued up, drop small blobs of white paint on the end of the bolts and immediately next to that on the frame. That way it’s easy to visually check if a bolt is coming loose.
I found the pivot bolts on the yoke next to the seat tube needed tightening, but they are a pig to get to unless you put the bike in a stand and remove the wheels and shock.
Be careful with removing the top shock bolt as there’s a (really important) conical washer that just loves to fall out and roll under the nearest immovable fixture you have in your garage![]()
How did you get rid of the battery noise? I'm hearing a noise that I think is coming from the battery or a wire vibrating inside the tube. If I squeeze the battery with my hand, it moves inward a little, but I don't know if that's normal or not. I also don't know how to adjust the battery so it doesn't move that little bit.I've also ridden it a bit and I can say that it's very quiet. The only noise from the bike is the knocking of the brake pads. I've eliminated the battery noise, otherwise there's no noise. The suspension creaks occasionally, but I think all this can be fixed. The bike is just super, I'm thinking of installing a 600 battery.
Thank you! I will check mine.
Remove the battery lock. There is another bolt under it holding the battery up against the down tube.How did you get rid of the battery noise? I'm hearing a noise that I think is coming from the battery or a wire vibrating inside the tube. If I squeeze the battery with my hand, it moves inward a little, but I don't know if that's normal or not. I also don't know how to adjust the battery so it doesn't move that little bit.
I've tightened all the screws on the battery mounts, but it still moves a little.
Further to Sig84’s point about the bolt holding the battery lock in place (you’ll need a T10 torx to get the Abus lock out of the way first), check the bolts at the bottom of the battery mount and adjust upwards to tighten the battery into place if necessary. I then stuck a thin (roughly 5mm thick) pad of packaging foam to the flat plastic behind the top of the battery, to eliminate that play you can feel if you press the top of the battery inwards once locked in place. Having done that, I‘m not getting any rattles or knocks from the battery area; the bike is very quiet descending now.How did you get rid of the battery noise? I'm hearing a noise that I think is coming from the battery or a wire vibrating inside the tube. If I squeeze the battery with my hand, it moves inward a little, but I don't know if that's normal or not. I also don't know how to adjust the battery so it doesn't move that little bit.
I've tightened all the screws on the battery mounts, but it still moves a little.
What size Fidlock bottle is that please.? I also have an X2 shock & want to fit the biggest bottle possible.Updated my wheels and thought I’d try the Kryptotal and Argotal combo as the weathers better. FR541 on Hope5s, happy days!
View attachment 164568
It is the Fidlock 590 ml version. it's not my image, but I have a similar bottle...What size Fidlock bottle is that please.? I also have an X2 shock & want to fit the biggest bottle possible.
Thanks![]()
Excellent. Thanks for your reply. It looks like this.?
It’s the 590. The largest I could get on the bike as it happensWhat size Fidlock bottle is that please.? I also have an X2 shock & want to fit the biggest bottle possible.
Thanks![]()
I wasn’t sure if this would have been too tall. It’s marginally shorter than the 590 which I guess helps. Do you have a pic on the bike?Excellent. Thanks for your reply. It looks like this.?
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TWIST bottle 750 compact + bike base | Smoke | 09676-P01032(TBL)
The TWIST bottle 750 compact lives up to its name: Due to the voluminous design, this water bottle does not require more space than the TWIST 590 bottle - but transports significantly more liquid for the big thirst. Especially with narrow frame geometrie…www.fidlock.com
Ah, yes. Mine's a Large so maybe the 590 ml is the max size to go for. FlashtoBang.. What size is your frame.?I wasn’t sure if this would have been too tall. It’s marginally shorter than the 590 which I guess helps. Do you have a pic on the bike?
Edit. Signals rubbish, pic randomly loaded in after I send message. Ignore![]()
Yes, mine is the XL frame, but there’s loads of space. When I checked them out in the shop, the only difference I could see is the 750ml was fatter than the 590ml one, but not any longer that I could see. Maybe worth a trip to your LBS to see if they have both in stock to confirm.FlashtoBang.. What size is your frame.?
Thank you so much for the info. I'm sure 2mm will not be an issue. I'll see if I can find them in stock at my local lbs to compare.Yes, mine is the XL frame, but there’s loads of space. When I checked them out in the shop, the only difference I could see is the 750ml was fatter than the 590ml one, but not any longer that I could see. Maybe worth a trip to your LBS to see if they have both in stock to confirm.
Edit - the 590 one is 208mm in length TWIST bottle 590 + bike base | Smoke | 09636-001032(TBL) and the 750 one is 210mm in length TWIST bottle 750 compact + bike base | Smoke | 09676-P01032(TBL) so I seriously doubt 2mm will make any difference. I suspect the 750mm one will work in the L frame bike if the 590 does.
I'll risk it & report backI can confirm based on the length of the 750 that it won’t fit. The thickness of the 750 brings the part where you drink up and currently I only have about 3mm of space. A bit of basic maths puts the edge of the cap approx 4.2mm upwards which would foul. As you can see, I have to have my lid a particular way in order to have it fit already.
Edit, the cap seems different, maybe it will fit… it’ll be bloody close that’s for sure.
Which Galfer pads would think are the best for this bike FlashToBang? The G1652 (ebike pad) are the obvious choice but are any of the other recommended?Further to Sig84’s point about the bolt holding the battery lock in place (you’ll need a T10 torx to get the Abus lock out of the way first), check the bolts at the bottom of the battery mount and adjust upwards to tighten the battery into place if necessary. I then stuck a thin (roughly 5mm thick) pad of packaging foam to the flat plastic behind the top of the battery, to eliminate that play you can feel if you press the top of the battery inwards once locked in place. Having done that, I‘m not getting any rattles or knocks from the battery area; the bike is very quiet descending now.
The only residual (occasional) noise is the brake pads ’clonking’ (for want of a better word) into place, when they are engaged after a short period of no braking (usually notice this on first use of the front brake after dropping into a DH trail). That must be a generic Shimano XT calliper trait, but maybe unique to the Shimano pad variant Cube have elected to use (they weren’t the usual vented pads one normally sees on Shimano callipers fitted to eMTBs). This clunk might reduce after putting new/different pads in, once the current ones wear out (they function OK, so a waste just to chuck in the bin now). Once the current pads are done, I’ll be switching to Galfer pads, as I’ve got on well with them in the past. The other option is fit new brakes altogether; I’ve already concluded the Hayes Dominion A4 brakes I’ve got on my Enduro rig are (for me) way better than these Shimano XT ones (even if the Hayes do use ducking killing DOT fluid, rather than the slightly less poisonous mineral oil Shimano use).
The eMTB (purple) or Advanced (red) ones (both seem very similar) would probably be the best balance for year round use on this bike. I have the Pro (green) ones on my Enduro rig, which have the benefit of bedding in super quick and are the most powerful, but they wear out much quicker than the others; no bad thing, as that means they probably wear the disc less. If you can afford it, it’s worth keeping a set of the Pro (green) ones for emergencies anyway; if you turn up for a bike park uplift day and realise your existing pads are worn out, you can just swap the Galfer Pros in and ride off, knowing they will quickly bed in within the first couple of minutes if downhill use. All that said, I know a couple of friends that swear by the cheapest Performance (Black) pads, for anything other than full on wet winter riding. I guess it all depends what riding you expect to do.Which Galfer pads would think are the best for this bike
Brilliant info. Thank you.The eMTB (purple) or Advanced (red) ones (both seem very similar) would probably be the best balance for year round use on this bike. I have the Pro (green) ones on my Enduro rig, which have the benefit of bedding in super quick and are the most powerful, but they wear out much quicker than the others; no bad thing, as that means they probably wear the disc less. If you can afford it, it’s worth keeping a set of the Pro (green) ones for emergencies anyway; if you turn up for a bike park uplift day and realise your existing pads are worn out, you can just swap the Galfer Pros in and ride off, knowing they will quickly bed in within the first couple of minutes if downhill use. All that said, I know a couple of friends that swear by the cheapest Performance (Black) pads, for anything other than full on wet winter riding. I guess it all depends what riding you expect to do.
(side note - I’ve bought most of my Gafer pads from totalbleedsolitions.co.uk; they usually have a good price and free shipping in UK. FD 426 is the right pad shape code (all compounds) for the Shimano XT BR-M8120 according to the Galfer website)
There’s quite a few of us in the UK that have had the updates and the new modes, so don’t think it’s a Cube thing. Might be worth getting in touch with Bosch customer support.I'm trying to work out if this is a Cube thing rather than a Bosch thing which is why I've posted in this thread. I'm in the UK.
Have you had a look in the selected modes for emtb+?Has anyone had any problems with the recent Bosch power and mode updates? I have a 2025 Stereo One77 Hybrid Race spec and I've managed to get the power updates. However, the new modes like EMTB+ have not arrived. I've tried unstalling/reinstalling the Flow app but still no luck. I'm trying to work out if this is a Cube thing rather than a Bosch thing which is why I've posted in this thread. I'm in the UK.