Cube one77 2025

Anyone know how easy it is to replace the rear brake hose? Do i have to drop the motor?
 
⚡ EMTB Pro Go Pro — exclusive discounts & ad-free Peaty's 25% off & more · Ad-free browsing · Pro badge See the deals →
When pushing the bike up the stairs using the walk assist mode, will the cranks hit the steps? I'm concerned about this because I live on the third floor and have to bring the bike up the stairs. I read in this thread that the One77 has a fairly low bottom bracket. I didn't have this problem with my Levo Gen 3, but its BB height was 350mm and the cranks were 160mm.
 
When pushing the bike up the stairs using the walk assist mode, will the cranks hit the steps? I'm concerned about this because I live on the third floor and have to bring the bike up the stairs. I read in this thread that the One77 has a fairly low bottom bracket. I didn't have this problem with my Levo Gen 3, but its BB height was 350mm and the cranks were 160mm.
Should be fine! I keep my bike in the spare room so i have to push it up stairs and i have had no problems.
 
When pushing the bike up the stairs using the walk assist mode, will the cranks hit the steps? I'm concerned about this because I live on the third floor and have to bring the bike up the stairs. I read in this thread that the One77 has a fairly low bottom bracket. I didn't have this problem with my Levo Gen 3, but its BB height was 350mm and the cranks were 160mm.
Great. Thank you for the quick response.
 
The best strategy is to pull the bike by walking in reverse. I have to do it to climb the 3 floors to go home, by far the best strategy in my opinion 😉
 
Sorty I've no info on connect module other than when I researched it the general comcensus was money would be better spent on a hidden apple air tag in the tyre .
That was my first thought but when I discovered the Bosch module, I learned it has a motion alarm and also a hard connection to your phone (live GPS) once the bike has been moved while locked? ie. does not rely on Apples Find My network. Perhaps @gio_se can comment. It probably seems overkill for many people, but I am going to be forced to leave it locked up in public locations occasionally.

Also where did you get your gen5 compatible one gio, they seem hard to get currently?
 
Last edited:
@jon2o4 That's right, it has motion detection by both sensors (accelerometer, gyroscope etc) and gps. It has two levels of activation and reaction based on motion detected. First level: loud warning beep on bike, no notification on cell phone - Second level: continuous warning tone and theft/tracking notification on cell phone. Plus with the new update expected to arrive soon it will also make the battery unusable via battery lock function. Cons: You have to pay for Flow+ subscription and you are tied to a single smartphone (plus a possible kiox300/500) as a key. Is this a TOTAL guarantee against theft? No. Is it a good deterrent to thieves? Yes. Would it help in finding the stolen bike? Yes. To me it is worth the expense.
The module and wiring are always the same, what changes are the mounts and screw (a few bucks). I got the kit for gen4 and separately the screw and mounts for gen5, I found everything online available from various seller.

EDIT:

Here is the list of specific parts for CX5 (brackets and screws only) ;) :

Bosch ConnectModule Screw for BDU38YY (Bosch code EB112000TA)
Bosch ConnectModule Fixing Plate for BDU38YY (Bosch code EB13900019)
Bosch ConnectModule support for BDU38YY (Bosch code EB13900018)

And this is the Bosch code of the COMPLETE kit (with ALL the components) specific for CX5:

EB1390001L
 
Last edited:
Wondering if I will get some advantages to change stem from stock (50mm) to 35/40 mm...? ...
 
Maybe twitchier steering? Do you actually need shorter?
It´s an ongoing debate. Stem optimal lenght , and how to fine tunnig it. Should it equal fork offset and impact on going longer or shorter?
I´m good with it, but I like to experiment changes also based on other riders imputs.
 
It´s an ongoing debate. Stem optimal lenght , and how to fine tunnig it. Should it equal fork offset and impact on going longer or shorter?
I´m good with it, but I like to experiment changes also based on other riders imputs.
Experimenting is always nice, go for it and report 👍 I’ve spent too much money on bad experiments 😁 not saying that this is one though.
 
Experimenting is always nice, go for it and report 👍 I’ve spent too much money on bad experiments 😁 not saying that this is one though.
Everyone of us have been there...o_O . We don´t learn without mistakes...
I was thinking on going a tad lower and short. Still looking for a stem to match...
 
Hi all, help needed. I picked up my new One77 yesterday and straight away stripped it to change forks, brakes and gears.
I’ve also re-routed the rear brake cable to exit on the RH side of the headset because I’m in the UK and run rear brake on the left.

Anyway, the headset is total pain in the arse, no surprise there, but I’m trying understand which way is steeper and if both dimples should face the same direction.

There’s conflicting information out there. Please can someone check if their factory installed, unmolested, bike has the dimples facing the same direction please.

Also, is the steering a little stiffer with integrated headset. Seems to be when wiggling the steering on the stand.

Thanks!
 
Same. My top is facing front tyre and bottom facing rear. I think that’s high mode.
 
I wanna upgrade my rotas on my one77. Hs2 or something. Might go mavens or hopes instead tho. Unsure tbh.
 
What upgrades are you planning/installing?
Swapped the forks for my existing Grip2 damper, new Hope Tech 4 V4 brakes with TRP 2.3mm rotors 220/200 front/rear, shimano XT 11S Linkglide, PNW bars, stem and 170mm dropper and added low speed adjuster to the rear shock. Finally PINND 140mm cranks and pink Deity pedals that the bike shop gave me for free.
IMG_1992.jpeg
IMG_1993.jpeg
IMG_1994.jpeg
IMG_1995.jpeg
IMG_1996.jpeg
IMG_1997.jpeg
IMG_1998.jpeg
IMG_2001.jpeg
IMG_2002.jpeg
 
And a different set of mullet wheels that I built. Stans Flow EX3 rear rim and DT Swiss HX531 front with Hope Pro 4 hub. Tyres are just what I’m currently running.

Only been round the block to bed the brakes in but it’s got plenty of pop and loving being able to run a 170mm dropper on a medium frame. Gets the seat nice and low, together with the mullet I can’t wait to hit the techy, steep, off piste that I love.

Brakes are very impressive, enjoying the modulation compared to my on/off Shigarus.
 
Anyone know how easy it is to replace the rear brake hose? Do i have to drop the motor?
Fairly easy. I removed the front motor mount bolt and loosened the rear which allowed the motor to pivot out of the way.

Obviously remove the battery and motor guard first!

If you’re leaving the routing the same through the headset then you’ll get away with the sram/avid connectamajig thing or whatever it’s called.

The Cube’s high tech internal routing solution is a crappy fabric sleeve!

I changed the rear brake line to exit from the RH side of the headset because my left lever is the rear. As a consequence I run the cable out of the sleeve and it was easy enough.

Be careful when you loosen the cable guide exit on the LH chain stay, don’t completely remove the small bolt because there’s a rear part that lives inside the chain stay. Stupid design.
 
Fairly easy. I removed the front motor mount bolt and loosened the rear which allowed the motor to pivot out of the way.

Obviously remove the battery and motor guard first!

If you’re leaving the routing the same through the headset then you’ll get away with the sram/avid connectamajig thing or whatever it’s called.

The Cube’s high tech internal routing solution is a crappy fabric sleeve!

I changed the rear brake line to exit from the RH side of the headset because my left lever is the rear. As a consequence I run the cable out of the sleeve and it was easy enough.

Be careful when you loosen the cable guide exit on the LH chain stay, don’t completely remove the small bolt because there’s a rear part that lives inside the chain stay. Stupid design.
Thanks so much for that. My rear cable is twisted and catches on the rear wheel without being tied to the frame. SRAM barb and pull through with your tips on pivoting the motor will hopefully make the repair process easier. Thanks for the tips.
 
And a different set of mullet wheels that I built. Stans Flow EX3 rear rim and DT Swiss HX531 front with Hope Pro 4 hub. Tyres are just what I’m currently running.

Only been round the block to bed the brakes in but it’s got plenty of pop and loving being able to run a 170mm dropper on a medium frame. Gets the seat nice and low, together with the mullet I can’t wait to hit the techy, steep, off piste that I love.

Brakes are very impressive, enjoying the modulation compared to my on/off Shigarus.
Hopes would be nice, I’ve E4s on my hardtail. On this bike I’d love to install V4s, but so far I’m ok with shimano. Maybe it’s the next upgrade. So far I’ve replaced the suspension, wheels, handlebar… I think I should have bought the cheapest version of the bike, because everything will be replaced anyway… 🤔
 
Hello Guys,
The Bike is quite Nice but I think i Will put a dhx coil shock.
It's really really.low in term of bottom bracket event with the 140 mm cranks I had a lot of issues
I destroyed the engine cover in plastic do you know if we can find a stronger protection ?
And I had a bad crash (I'm ok) but the Bike is damaged 😞

IMG_6846.jpeg IMG_6831.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Anyone know where i can get a motor cover? just would like a spare.
 
Hello Guys,
The Bike is quite Nice but I think i Will put a dhx coil shock.
It's really really.low in term of bottom bracket event with the 140 mm cranks I had a lot of issues
I destroyed the engine cover in plastic do you know if we can find a stronger protection ?
And I had a bad crash (I'm ok) but the Bike is damaged 😞
Check this: Schwarzburg GbR
This month they should release skidplates for the 2025 Cube bikes. I have one for the Stereo Hybrid 120 and is pretty good.
 
First ride yesterday and…. Interesting.

The bb is definitely too low. I fitted 145mm cranks and had one pedal strike but I was never totally at ease pedalling up technical climbs.
I’d just like another 10mm quite honestly.

To compensate I added more pressure to the rear shock. I’m circa 80kg and was running about 220psi.

However, I absolutely loved the ride. Incongruously it gobbled up rock gardens and gave me great pop off jumps, I had an absolute blast!

I really appreciated the ability to run a 170mm dropper on my medium (I’m 173cm) and reckon I could probably fit a 180mm OneUp dropper as there’s 290mm of space in the seat tube.
Also, my little legs and arse enjoyed the fact it’s a mullet and it ripped corners and I didn’t get buzzed on any steeps.

Final bonus for me was the ability to remove the battery and comfortably get the bike in the back of car for my hotel stay last night.

The ride was a mix of trail riding, flow and older school dh tracks.

So far so happy. Happy to answer specific questions if you have any.
IMG_2044.jpeg
IMG_2042.jpeg
IMG_2041.jpeg
 
Keep reading
    Browse all

    Similar Threads

    Community Stats

    Since 2018
    668K
    Messages
    40,764
    Members
    Join 30,000+ Riders, it's free!
    Back
    Top