Let's wait for @Mario Antony. I think he has a good solution. And if he has tested it enough he hopefully will reveal it here. And of course if the battery is fixed well and cannot move the Bosch motor is also known for its rattling noises on descents... This is (technically) not a problem at all, just a little unpleasant.
Sorry for all this time, sincerelly!
Thank you for the update! Have some nice holidays!Sorry for all this time, sincerelly!
After the summer holidays I'll have news.
For now... nothing to report, other than bike hasn't had any problems.
I would insist on everyone doing the threadlock mod on the upper bracket.
That alone, I would say it will stop any disconection 99%.
Cheers!
PS: for now, it's time to enjoy other things
View attachment 143731
What is the thread lock mod? Some lactate on the 2 screws? Thank'sSorry for all this time, sincerelly!
After the summer holidays I'll have news.
For now... nothing to report, other than bike hasn't had any problems.
I would insist on everyone doing the threadlock mod on the upper bracket.
That alone, I would say it will stop any disconection 99%.
Cheers!
PS: for now, it's time to enjoy other things
View attachment 143731
Take a look here:
For a backup plan to get you "home" is ok.
Looks really nice!
can you elaborate on how those adjuster screws work? I also received and installed the cascade components latch. But I just tightened those 2 big screws. Didn't seem like they were adjustable or anything.
Unfortunately, Cascade Components does not provide any explanation or instructions on how to correctly attach the latch. I will try to explain how the adjustment mechanism for increasing the clamping force (symbol F in the pic below) works. It's not that easy, so I quickly made a small sketch that only shows the components schematically, but I think it's clear when you have the latch in front of you. So first attach the latch to the battery with the four small screws. There are no adjustment options here, just tighten them (be careful, as the engineer says: after tight comes loose, so don't tighten with brute force, that won't help). Then insert the battery with the latch and try the latch first, i.e. close it. If the battery can still be moved, or you think it's not enough, you have to increase the clamping force: As in the picture below: slightly loosen the two screws and move the latch in the direction of the arrow "+" symbol (less is more at first), which is engraved on the latch. Then tighten the screws and close the latch again. Test whether the battery is now tight enough (even with a lot of force, you can't move mine when the latch is closed). If not, repeat the process until the battery is tight enough. What you do with this is shown in the picture below: by moving the latch in the "+" direction, the distance to the latch counterpart is shortened (a little) and the clamping force F (picture below) increases. This presses the battery more firmly against the metal holder, with the effect that it can no longer move. If the clamping force should decrease later for some reason, you can readjust it using the allen screws. (Sorry for the long text, but I hope it helps to understand the mechanism).
this is perfect. I appreciate you taking the time to draw this out, I'm sure it will help out a lot of folks trying to figure this out. Yes this makes sense now. I'm also assuming we don't want it too tightly latched since that may cause issues with the connector.
on second thought, this only increases how tightly it pulls the battery towards the Metal Holder, and has nothing to do with increase force between the metal holder and the connecter in the down tube. So making it too tight would only make the metal holder start to bend towards the battery.
Yes, exactly! But I guess if you would make it too tight (in order that you would bend the metal holder) you would not be able to close the latch lever anymore. So, as always, you need a bit of tact...
In addition, it would not be good if the latch exerted a large force on the battery connector in the down tube. I think Cascade Components has done a really good job here. The engineering explanation is that if you increase the clamping force F, you also increase the friction force between the metal bracket and the battery (F friction = F *μ) where μ is the coefficient of friction. This solution is much more elegant than simply exerting more pressure on the battery connector.Yes, exactly! But I guess if you would make it too tight (in order that you would bend the metal holder) you would not be able to close the latch lever anymore. So, as always, you need a bit of tact...
. You all know what happens then... a serious crash with shoulder and helmet grind on the right side... shoulder pain, and thumb on the left hand badly sprained... No apology, instead fierce accusations from the "arm-hooker"... You are not allowed to ride here... Great!! Got up, rode on (of course left a few swear words behind) and... Everything was perfect. 
Latch is in place and my trust in Cascade Components has grown enormously (However, trust in mutual consideration and human behaviour has suffered a serious blow). Now the Latch is good but I need some time until my thumb is back to a point where I can hold the handlebars securely... ahhhhrghhh militant walkers... 
. Next time I'll be so fast that his arm will dislocate...
Did he act on propose?Next update in the Cascade Components Latch test: Today again 60km on natural trails with some tough downhills and rumble tracks. No power cut outs, no noise from the battery, everything was perfect... Then, just before I got home, another test of a special kind. One of these militant walkers with a dog jumped up to me and hooked his arm into my left arm
Next update in the Cascade Components Latch test: Today again 60km on natural trails with some tough downhills and rumble tracks. No power cut outs, no noise from the battery, everything was perfect... Then, just before I got home, another test of a special kind. One of these militant walkers with a dog jumped up to me and hooked his arm into my left arm
Yes, he did! Don't know why. I wasn't going too fast for the width of the path and it wouldn't have been a problem, but there seems to be a strong rivalry between hikers and bikers in the forest. The only difference between us is the first letter...
.
Yes I have the 750 Wh battery. The 60 km are certainly nothing special. I usually ride a mix of eco, auto, eMTB and turbo, with most of the time in auto and eMTB mode. Average speed > 23 km/h, average cadence around 90. After 60 km I still have two full green(!) bars available, which is about 40%.
@S1mmo: Yes, exactly, thank you for your words. That's what I think too. There is enough space for all of us. I am aware that there are idiots on our side too. At least for me, I am not an aggressive rider (quite the opposite), especially not on shared paths. I have also had a hiker come towards me on a downhill trail (on all fours). I almost crashed so as not to endanger him, and I just said "hello" in a friendly way... (I think that was enough for him to realize that he had made a mistake. In any case, I never saw him there again
).
My....oh my!Yes, he did! Don't know why. I wasn't going too fast for the width of the path and it wouldn't have been a problem, but there seems to be a strong rivalry between hikers and bikers in the forest. The only difference between us is the first letter...
And yes, the more important news is that the Battery latch is doing it's job perfectly (up to now).
Thank you for your good wishes. This morning I got a few more bruises, but nothing serious...
I think what @InRustWeTrust is experiencing is not the usual latch issue.
Oh, yeah I know, just wanted to add my bits to the whole Strive:ON thread here!
@jakeu:
