M820 Bafang - LIGHTCARBON LCE930 Frame (lightweight)

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Just looking at crank arm options... obviously isis spline but what is the correct offset or q factor is it the same as bosch/yamaha? I can get my hands on a carbon crankset for bosch/yamaha for a really good price ... cheers
 
Remember "Q" does not have anything to do with the motor. It has to do with how far the crank arms flare out. You need enough flare to clear the chainstays but not so much that your feet are too far apart to be comfortable.
Here is an image and some measurements I made for the CEF50 thread.

M820 Bafang - CEF50 frame (lightweight)

Can you tell me which version to choose? 36V 43V or maybe 48V??? what are the pros and cons of a given voltage?
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patdam said:
For that i have understand following KaroKönig sharing, bosch cranks will be increase Q factor of 12mm on the M820.
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Bafang m820

can u take photo the remote from side, so it show how thick it is? Display
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The crank KaroKonig uses are made by Miranda. Miranda makes crank arms with multiple Q. The Q8, Q8FB, the Q16 etc.
All that changes is the flare of the crank arm. I have used the Q8 and the Q8FB. What Q is best for you depends on your stance. How wide a distance between your feet is comfortable. I am tall so I prefer a crank with more Q.
I current use the FSA crank because it is available in 150,155 and 160mm lengths.
 
FSA makes lots of crank arms. If you look at the link above it has weights for all the crank arms I have.
My FSA CK220 are 205g per arm.
 
I use the Prowheel 152mm crank. Q-factor is higher then original. It is about 11 mm more per side compared to original bafang.

I definitely like the short crank, but q-factor is maybe too much, I am searching for some around 155-160 mm long with lower q-factor. Preferebly aluminium.

With the short crank I can really spin like crazy and this motor seems to work well on high cadens. And of course, no problem pedalstrikes. I can pedal all the way in most corners, even when leaning over.
 
Finally built up/first ride photos. Had a great first ride, motor has some characteristics I need to get used to coming from an EP800 bike. That bike was about 53lbs, so this thing is a lot more manageable. Need to get a final weight still.

IMG_8616.jpg IMG_8615.jpg
 
crustafur said:
Finally built up/first ride photos. Had a great first ride, motor has some characteristics I need to get used to coming from an EP800 bike. That bike was about 53lbs, so this thing is a lot more manageable. Need to get a final weight still.

View attachment 133011 View attachment 133012
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Did you paint it by yourself? I have never seen this color.
 
So while changing brakes I noticed what others have mentioned here also. The headset is wearing down the cables and hoses very quickly.
This is my brake hose:
IMG_1766.JPG

IMG_1770.JPG


So I should probably get a different model, but for now I sanded down the sharp edges and hope for the best:
IMG_1767.JPG

IMG_1769.JPG
 
Freda said:
So while changing brakes I noticed what others have mentioned here also. The headset is wearing down the cables and hoses very quickly.
This is my brake hose:
View attachment 133166
View attachment 133167

So I should probably get a different model, but for now I sanded down the sharp edges and hope for the best:
View attachment 133169
View attachment 133170
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Damn! You could probably also add some heat shrink to the cables/hoses near that location. I intend to pull mine apart to sort some routing issues I wasn't happy with. Good think on the clean up of the upper wedge.
 
The headset is designed so you have cables straight through, but in reality they are at an angle leaning against the sharp edges. So when turning the handlebar it is chewing really bad into the cables.
 
Freda said:
The headset is designed so you have cables straight through, but in reality they are at an angle leaning against the sharp edges. So when turning the handlebar it is chewing really bad into the cables.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the information and pictures. I will be taking measures to prevent this now too. A slice in a brake line wouldn't be fun 😬.
 
TLDR: what orientation for lower shock hardware spacers?

Hey all. starting my rough in build (don't have motor yet) but suspension and running lines an such. The rear shock included bottom hardware....has 2 strange looking spacers / washers along with the bushing and bolt etc. The spacers have a distinct orientation requirement as one side has a an angled chamfer and the other flat. Seems pretty clear they take up the space between the frame mounts and the shock eyelet but which way are they to be oriented? Meaning, which side in and out.

sorry, no pic handy because it was last night puttering and it is 3 stories down right now. Those who know, will know.
 
cwoodffr said:
TLDR: what orientation for lower shock hardware spacers?

Hey all. starting my rough in build (don't have motor yet) but suspension and running lines an such. The rear shock included bottom hardware....has 2 strange looking spacers / washers along with the bushing and bolt etc. The spacers have a distinct orientation requirement as one side has a an angled chamfer and the other flat. Seems pretty clear they take up the space between the frame mounts and the shock eyelet but which way are they to be oriented? Meaning, which side in and out.

sorry, no pic handy because it was last night puttering and it is 3 stories down right now. Those who know, will know.
Click to expand...
I think you are describing the front motor mount spacers.
you need to purchase the bottom eyelet spacer
 
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