your photo is quite informative. The holes surrounding the actual connector ( 2nd photo) are guide holes rather than designed to prevent movement and you first photo suggests it is only those holes and the latch that prevents the battery moving from side to side. I agree increasing the vertical pressure will help but both the latch and the guide lugs must be under significant pressure and neither are designed to deal with lateral loads. I would want some packing between the walls of the downtube and battery on 3 sides to prevent that loading. I think the thing to understand is that the latch works on a cammed lever system and it will only stay in the locked position if the battery does no move laterally. Happy for you that you are getting rides in with no problems at the moment but I would not bet on it lasting I'm afraid.
Strive:ON problems
- Thread starter hubertsk
- Start date
yes that looks very similar to the arrangement on my bike which uses the Bosch Rail. Not too sure about the bottom "hatch" as he calls it. Looks a bit soft for a bash guard, unless there is something else that fits over that part?
not sure if I agree. the rail only supports in one direction, a bit sideways as wellI don't own the bike, it was a candidate for my next bike. Well from all I can/could read I completely agree with your findings.
There is vertical and lateral battery movement that creates the damage.
The one and only mistake Canyon did was not using proprietary Bosch(rail system) parts. With the rail that most probably would not happen.
but Canyon solved that with this feature:
the Bosch rail seems heavy for not so much extra support.
I Like the idea of Canyon by only support at the top and bottom and rely on the stifness of the battery and frame. and hence reducing wheight. it a shame it just not well executed.
the support at the bottom is not good enough.
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el.guillyt
Member
I don't know if it's only me, but I can't see the attachment
Hayes dominion a4 are fantastic brakes
Tubby G
❤️🔥 Hot Stuff ❤️🔥
Just a thought on this issue. As a temporary fix has anyone tried running some Compriband tape along the length of the battery?
It’s an expanding tape used for sealing window & door frames in the construction industry. It might help wedge the battery within the down tube and eliminate any movement. Should still be able to remove the battery ok and then just add more tape when re-installing the battery. Just an idea
It’s an expanding tape used for sealing window & door frames in the construction industry. It might help wedge the battery within the down tube and eliminate any movement. Should still be able to remove the battery ok and then just add more tape when re-installing the battery. Just an idea
now ok?
el.guillyt
Member
yes Thanks
Is this on all new deliveries?
I'm sorry if i was not clear, this is already on all Strive:ON s from the beginning.
i believe (and proven with my temp solution, for now at least
) that the issue is at the bottom of the battery, there are two issues according to me:- latch is not strong enough.
- battery is not snug enough.
The latch seems not strong enough. i guess the mistake Canyon made is to use the bosch latch. in this thread you can see Whyte keeps the battery in place with the battery cover.
the second (and biggest) mistake is that they accept the 'damage' because the issue is not (yet) on all bikes. probably a VP with an MBA, looking at numbers rather than an engineer wanting to solve the issue.
Anyway, Canyon sent me a new latch, i'll keep you posted if the design has changed.
Mario Antony
Active member
Sorry, are you comparing a tiny bit of plastic attached throught bolts at the battery, with a full cradle made of steel and weighting around 450g?
The cradle or rail system, supports the battery 3 faces of the hexagonal form battery, and the charging port as well as the latch is bolted to this craddle/rail.
All dimensions can be respected according to manufacturing tolerances.
On Canyon Strive :ON...........well we need to believe that the inside blader makes a wonderful job, living the inside tube with perfect surface and that the downtube is stiff enought so that no stress goes into the battery supports.
Mario Antony
Active member
Scott uses the same Latch system, but it uses some kind of inner craddle.I'm sorry if i was not clear, this is already on all Strive:ON s from the beginning.
i believe (and proven with my temp solution, for now at least
in my homble opinion, both would not be solved with rail from bosch.
- latch is not strong enough.
- battery is not snug enough.
The latch seems not strong enough. i guess the mistake Canyon made is to use the bosch latch. in this thread you can see Whyte keeps the battery in place with the battery cover.
the second (and biggest) mistake is that they accept the 'damage' because the issue is not (yet) on all bikes. probably a VP with an MBA, looking at numbers rather than an engineer wanting to solve the issue.
Anyway, Canyon sent me a new latch, i'll keep you posted if the design has changed.
As far as I could research, there are no Problems with Scott Patron Eride
I´m inclined to agree.
With the bosch rail system all parts move in unison (Battery, latch and connector). On the Strive these parts can move independently of each other which is producing the stresses on the latch and disconnections from the connector.
30 kms of a bike park today, No issue with latch. Over jumped & landed flat on everything first few runs too, The strive likes to be in the air..
But.... Bike seemed real draggy at times, Not punchy at low speeds, Also beyond the 16mph "So not assisting" after some peddling the motor seemed to hold the bike back, Like not free wheeling. Anyone else had this ?
There is an update pending, perhaps ill try that.
This bosch doesn't seem to better my brose in the levo, the bosch i had in a trek rail 2 years ago was a beast...
But.... Bike seemed real draggy at times, Not punchy at low speeds, Also beyond the 16mph "So not assisting" after some peddling the motor seemed to hold the bike back, Like not free wheeling. Anyone else had this ?
There is an update pending, perhaps ill try that.
This bosch doesn't seem to better my brose in the levo, the bosch i had in a trek rail 2 years ago was a beast...
Have you tweaked the settings in the app?
yes plus 5 in all of it in turbo
el.guillyt
Member
I had something similar before the second time the cut off's where coming back, it was like the motor was not giving all, sometimes nothing, but the bike didn't cut off completely, in the next couple of rides went worse until the cut off came back, I don't know if it's exactly the same as you
Something seperate to cut off ? My bike hasn't cut off at all, The battery has not moved, its never turned off, or never flickered the on lights. it purely feels like motor drag, underpowered.
el.guillyt
Member
everything on the bike was normal, no flickering, not cutting off, just lack of power and at times no power at all, I thought with the silicon strap I put around the battery and latch bracket was good enough to secure the battery (similar to the zip ties some of you guys used), it felt really solid with my hands, but apparently it's not enough, hopefully I'll have the bike back soon, I want to investigate the possibility to attach a strap from top to bottom, so it compresses the battery against the top bracket/connector
Yes you are right. When using the Bosch rail system the battery is fully attached to the rail and the only movement of the battery can be if the rail is not firmly connected to the downtube or the battery connector is not bolted on firmly. Most importantly, as you point out, the battery connector , and latch slot , are all integrated as part of the rail which is steel. I have said before...but worth repeating, the breaking of the latch is a symptom not a cause. Those using zip ties etc are not strengthening the latch, they are preventing sideways movement at the latch slot. That does not prevent the same lateral movement at the battery connector however. That is only being prevented....or not...by the plastic lugs which will eventually wear, distort, or snap.
Quick question for everyone - my bike is on the way 3-10 days... is it obvious where/how to attach the cable ties?
Would you ride it first and see how it goes or just put the in right away?
If right away: Perhaps a stupid question but do you need to remove the battery to make the "cable tie net" work?
Appreciate I'm asking in advance without any reference bike here but I'm asking as I really just want to have it all ready to prepare when it arrives so I can get riding as quick as possible.
Thanks all!
Would you ride it first and see how it goes or just put the in right away?
If right away: Perhaps a stupid question but do you need to remove the battery to make the "cable tie net" work?
Appreciate I'm asking in advance without any reference bike here but I'm asking as I really just want to have it all ready to prepare when it arrives so I can get riding as quick as possible.
Thanks all!
cris cross, front two are obvious. rear are the motor mounts, the one side is fiddly, use decent ties, halfords not amazon...
Battery removal required??
Yes, Bike out the box, get the battery out, get it on charge. Build ur bike, you will need battery ouit to be able to loop your cable ties through the steel hanger at front, motor mounts at rear.
Thanks!!!
CrispyDesigns
Active member
Has anyone else seen this fix for the battery latch (it's on the EMTB Facebook page): Log into Facebook
I've ordered one. Should be sent out on Saturday. For the relatively small cost it'd be a worthwhile option to try in the interim
I've ordered one. Should be sent out on Saturday. For the relatively small cost it'd be a worthwhile option to try in the interim
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