2019 Turbo Levo Owners Thread

With the dropper post you have to make sure it is at its max height before sitting down, as if it hasn't quite got up to the top rachet it will drop down to the next one.
Also make sure the cable isn't too tight, you can slacken it off at the adjustment nut by the lever.
Mine was too tight with caused the post to drop on occasion, since adjustment it's been fine.
 
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Paul Mac said:
With the dropper post you have to make sure it is at its max height before sitting down, as if it hasn't quite got up to the top rachet it will drop down to the next one.
Also make sure the cable isn't too tight, you can slacken it off at the adjustment nut by the lever.
Mine was too tight with caused the post to drop on occasion, since adjustment it's been fine.
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Cable tension is not the issue. The seat is at max height then when you sit, it drops about an inch, over and over and over and over and over again. You approach an accent, put the seat up all the way, then it drops just as you start climbing, over and over and over again, sometimes it stays at the top, therefore you never know, what you are going to get on the next hill climb, like Russian Roulette. The rest of the seat post operation is about as smooth as sitting on a box of roofing nails. There is enough upward force that it could launch a gorilla to the moon. Yesterday when I got to the top of a big drop and stopped because of the slippery mud conditions (where it just rianed suddenly and briefly a few moments prior), I pushed the seat down first as I approached the edge, then as I was climbing off the bike, I had my thumb on the lever still by mistake and it launched me up and almost over the edge.
 
Will Ridealpine said:
Cable tension is not the issue. The seat is at max height then when you sit, it drops about an inch, over and over and over and over and over again. You approach an accent, put the seat up all the way, then it drops just as you start climbing, over and over and over again, sometimes it stays at the top, therefore you never know, what you are going to get on the next hill climb, like Russian Roulette. The rest of the seat post operation is about as smooth as sitting on a box of roofing nails. There is enough upward force that it could launch a gorilla to the moon. Yesterday when I got to the top of a big drop and stopped because of the slippery mud conditions (where it just rianed suddenly and briefly a few moments prior), I pushed the seat down first as I approached the edge, then as I was climbing off the bike, I had my thumb on the lever still by mistake and it launched me up and almost over the edge.
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Yep, pull up to the edge of a big slippery drop, (or any edge for that matter, the narlier the better), put you seat down as you approach nice and early, but then as you dismount from the sketchy situation, keep your thumb on the dropper lever while dismounting and enjoy the ride over the edge.
 
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Will Ridealpine said:
Cable tension is not the issue. The seat is at max height then when you sit, it drops about an inch, over and over and over and over and over again. You approach an accent, put the seat up all the way, then it drops just as you start climbing, over and over and over again, sometimes it stays at the top, therefore you never know, what you are going to get on the next hill climb, like Russian Roulette. The rest of the seat post operation is about as smooth as sitting on a box of roofing nails. There is enough upward force that it could launch a gorilla to the moon. Yesterday when I got to the top of a big drop and stopped because of the slippery mud conditions (where it just rianed suddenly and briefly a few moments prior), I pushed the seat down first as I approached the edge, then as I was climbing off the bike, I had my thumb on the lever still by mistake and it launched me up and almost over the edge.
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I agree these posts are not the most refined in use, but they should not keep dropping as you are experiencing, I would take it back under warranty and they will replace it for you.
Are you positive it's not the cable tension, as that's exactly what it sounds like.
Or the cable is caught in the frame some how, and it's not quite realising the mechanism fully.
 
Matt00 said:
Thanks, well pleased with it.

The Burgtec finished kit was just fitted by RaceCo and is just extra Burgtec bars, pedals, stem etc. I stuck with the 50mm stem length rather than going shorter.

Yes the bike had an invisiframe kit fitted for protection. Well recommended!

Hope your pleased with yours in Dec!
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Is that your bike on EMBN this week?
 
Will Ridealpine said:
Cable tension is not the issue. The seat is at max height then when you sit, it drops about an inch, over and over and over and over and over again. You approach an accent, put the seat up all the way, then it drops just as you start climbing, over and over and over again, sometimes it stays at the top, therefore you never know, what you are going to get on the next hill climb, like Russian Roulette. The rest of the seat post operation is about as smooth as sitting on a box of roofing nails. There is enough upward force that it could launch a gorilla to the moon. Yesterday when I got to the top of a big drop and stopped because of the slippery mud conditions (where it just rianed suddenly and briefly a few moments prior), I pushed the seat down first as I approached the edge, then as I was climbing off the bike, I had my thumb on the lever still by mistake and it launched me up and almost over the edge.
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There are some dropper post in the field with an O-ring used with a slightly to big diameter.
This is the reason why the post doesn't stay in the top position.
Your dealer can help further. Had it on my ride as well, was fixed in a couple of minutes.
 
Has anyone flipped their chip from low ( standard ) to high on the new Levo ? If so could you honestly feel any difference to the ride.
 
Can’t wait to give this a try out !

CB8C4B3F-0297-4B24-B7EA-AF9C07BAD2A3.jpeg
 
Highflyer said:
Has anyone flipped their chip from low ( standard ) to high on the new Levo ? If so could you honestly feel any difference to the ride.
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Yes, and the LBS does it on all the bikes they sell. I have not tried it but the shop did, and they told me it is a big difference. The area where we live is an old dune zone, so the climbs and decents are small, but with lot of single tracks and tight turns between the trees
 
Hello guys! Could anyone post some pictures about the 2nd/2019 generation Levo's motor cover? Which is the upgraded version.

Have anybody experience with the fresh and upgraded 2nd generation Levo?
I'm a bit afraid about the read issues.
 
Highflyer said:
Has anyone flipped their chip from low ( standard ) to high on the new Levo ? If so could you honestly feel any difference to the ride.
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Mine came with the chip in the High Position. This video has slightly confused me as it seems to say the low chip position raises the BB and slackens the head angle
 
Mine arrived this week.

Because of work i did not have much opportunity to ride a lot, just few kilometres. It feels very light and „bicycle-like“ compared to the 2018 model.

The engine is now a tiny bit louder, but i did only notice it inside my underground car park. Still quiet enough for me.

Changed the dropper post and went tubeless. No other mods so far.

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galaga187 said:
Mine came with the chip in the High Position. This video has slightly confused me as it seems to say the low chip position raises the BB and slackens the head angle
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Tongue tied I guess. Just pick your rear wheel off the ground whilst looking at the angle of your fork legs. The penny will then drop ( or raise ;) lol )
 
Highflyer said:
Magic Mary's now available in 29 x 2.6 there is a god !!
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Been available in Germany quite a while. Weird that not even on the schwalbe site. They are pretty damn big even on a 30mm rim. I decided to stay on 2.35, it doesn't break traction enough to warrant a 2.6 imo.
 
All Mountain Coaching said:
Been available in Germany quite a while. Weird that not even on the schwalbe site. They are pretty damn big even on a 30mm rim. I decided to stay on 2.35, it doesn't break traction enough to warrant a 2.6 imo.
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I only use the German on-line stores as the UK stock levels of anything Schwalbe seem disappointing. Eddy Currents next
 
I’ve got a 19 levo carbon expert, with 29 wheels. I’ve found that it’s a bit sluggish coming out of tight turns and I’m overshooting sometimes into the grass/bushes. I’m a big unit. 6ft and 120kgs. I’m not the fittest but not the weakest and my riding ability is ok, not professional or anything. I’ve had a few pedal strikes already as it is.

I’m going to look at changing to a set of 27.5 wheels with 2.8 butchers on and flipping the chip. basically a wheel Swap of a 2018 levo. Due to have this done in the morning. Have people done this already? Or are people going 27.5 to 29er?

I’m worried I’m going to regret going 27.5. I’ve chatted with a few people today who have gone smaller and found the results better.

Anyone in here experience with this
 
Will Ridealpine said:
My version 2.1 Gorilla Tape fender. Just stick to pieces together, then tape it on.

View attachment 7723

View attachment 7724
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All, This particular ‘fix’ is NOT going to stop ALL of the crap getting in.

Let me try to explain....
When the suspension is static as pictured in your post the ‘large hole in question’ is covered by the swing arm brace. The tape you have on the bike as pictured ‘will’ stop most of the crap getting in and this would work ‘if’ the bike was a Hardtail.

However, as soon as you sit on your rear suspended bike the ‘swing arm brace’ as pictured below will move in an upwards curved direction (See the first photo). Also once you start riding the swing arm brace will move up even further as the suspension works its way through its 150mm of travel. This movement upwards exposes the hole which is covered when the bike is static or the rear suspension is locked out to everything that is attached to your spinning rear tyre. At full travel on the rear the hole is completely exposed (See the second photo below) If the hole is not covered or filled with foam everything attached to your spinning rear tyre that is flung off it when next to this hole will find its way in as it is a very BIG hole.

E4ADAEAD-8B2F-4FBB-888F-84D3425BF05B.jpeg




At full travel on the rear suspension this is what the hole looks like.
If you were off the bike the black swing arm brace as pictured below (blue on your bike) completely covers this hole.
4E32C389-3D56-41F4-A6EF-C9ED77A71620.jpeg
 
Specialized Rider Care said:
There is no risk of over-heating by closing the gap here. The motor will automatically de-rate itself if it reaches a certain temperature, allowing it to cool naturally - it's part of the Brose design so you cannot damage it like this.
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I put a piece of scouring pad sponge in the gap between the swing arm and motor housing and fitted a a front mudhugger as others have, I also filled the motor casing gap with silicon grease.
My first 6 week service with 350 miles found 1 pine needle inside the motor casing, probably as the first few rides had no protection.
Simple precautions and no worries from my perspective
 
Glen said:
My first prototype, Will add sponge as well.
View attachment 7836
Just got this bike two weeks ago. Love it!!
Cheers
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Wow, good work. What kind of material did you make that out of? Will that stop stuff from getting in the motor when the rear suspension is fully compressed like @Kiwi in Wales was refering to? How are you going to put a sponge in the gap withough taking the motor cover off? They are supposed to be replacing the motor covers also.
 
Kiwi in Wales said:
All, This particular ‘fix’ is NOT going to stop ALL of the crap getting in.

Let me try to explain....
When the suspension is static as pictured in your post the ‘large hole in question’ is covered by the swing arm brace. The tape you have on the bike as pictured ‘will’ stop most of the crap getting in and this would work ‘if’ the bike was a Hardtail.

However, as soon as you sit on your rear suspended bike the ‘swing arm brace’ as pictured below will move in an upwards curved direction (See the first photo). Also once you start riding the swing arm brace will move up even further as the suspension works its way through its 150mm of travel. This movement upwards exposes the hole which is covered when the bike is static or the rear suspension is locked out to everything that is attached to your spinning rear tyre. At full travel on the rear the hole is completely exposed (See the second photo below) If the hole is not covered or filled with foam everything attached to your spinning rear tyre that is flung off it when next to this hole will find its way in as it is a very BIG hole.

View attachment 7737



At full travel on the rear suspension this is what the hole looks like.
If you were off the bike the black swing arm brace as pictured below (blue on your bike) completely covers this hole.
View attachment 7738
Click to expand...
Thanks sounds right to me. After riding though, there is all kinds of trail debris on top of the tape, but under the tape it looks clean.
 
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