2019 Turbo Levo Owners Thread

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Kiwi in Wales said:
Hi,
How tight it needs to be is actually displayed in your photo.
40 Nm.
You will need a torque wrench with the correct Nm range to carry out this task.

If you do not have a torque wrench..... 40Nm is fairly high so to get you by until you get yourself a torque wrench or borrow one from a mate you will need to tighten it up with quite a bit of force but try not to go too overboard and just keep an eye on it by checking every ride until you get hold of a torque wrench.
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40nm is for the bearing cone, that part is fine. I'm talking about the stainless steel nut shown. I can't even find what that part is called
 
Does anyone know how many tokens are in the Deluxe shock of a 2019 Expert Large ? I think I need to add one or two.
 
Please I need your help guys...
I have a real problem with the sensors of my 2019 Levo.
The sensors are paired with a Garmin Edge 820 - no problem with the pairing - but the values which they deliver are complete nonsense.
1.) The power sensor either shows some crazy numbers, it goes up to 3 or 4 thousand watts or it doesn't show any value at all as if the sensor wasn't present.
2.) The speed sensor always shows a constant speed of 25.x km/h after one or two turns of the rear wheel and stays there until the bike actually reaches that speed. Beyond 25.x it seems to work normal again.

I already did a factory reset of the TCU and uninstalled / reinstalled the sensors a couple of times on my Garmin device. No change.

As for the speed problem: I have installed a DT Swiss wheel set and just put a magnet on the rear brake disc (the original magnet doesn't work because of the centerlock adapters). First I was thinking that it might be problem of the magnet but on the other hand the motor shouldn't work at all if it wouldn't get a signal from the magnet, right ?!
And in any case it doesn't explain the problem with the power sensor at all...

Did anyone else experience similar problems and is there possibly a solution to fix it?

Any help would be highly appreciated!!

Thanks a lot in advance :)
a.
 
Specialized Rider Care said:
Thanks for asking. Key point here is that these are small running changes, we consider them cosmetic and you shouldn't be too concerned about them. Yes, these are available via authorized retailers.

Sponges will be available to retailers around the end of November/early December depending on where you are in the world, hence we posted a way for riders to create their own if they prefer. Either way it's an easy job for a retailer or rider to perform and it takes 2 minutes to fit.

Motor covers I believe are available sooner (some countries will have these already) however please note that to replace the cover you need to completely remove the motor and with it we advise replacing the motor hardware kit (bolts and aluminium inserts/spacers). For such a small cosmetic change it is a lot of work (for authorised retailers only) and we wouldn't recommend it unless they were taking the motor out anyhow. Worth repeating that these bikes are designed to get wet and muddy and that these small changes won't make big differences.
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Where are the sponge updates, surely your dealers should have these by now!
 
Quick question what settings are people using for the flip chip setting running 29” wheels, High or Low?
 
QUOTE="galaga187, post: 35494, member: 292"]Quick question what settings are people using for the flip chip setting running 29” wheels, High or Low?[/QUOTE]
Low
 
Hannes_3000 said:
Please I need your help guys...
I have a real problem with the sensors of my 2019 Levo.
The sensors are paired with a Garmin Edge 820 - no problem with the pairing - but the values which they deliver are complete nonsense.
1.) The power sensor either shows some crazy numbers, it goes up to 3 or 4 thousand watts or it doesn't show any value at all as if the sensor wasn't present.
2.) The speed sensor always shows a constant speed of 25.x km/h after one or two turns of the rear wheel and stays there until the bike actually reaches that speed. Beyond 25.x it seems to work normal again.

I already did a factory reset of the TCU and uninstalled / reinstalled the sensors a couple of times on my Garmin device. No change.

As for the speed problem: I have installed a DT Swiss wheel set and just put a magnet on the rear brake disc (the original magnet doesn't work because of the centerlock adapters). First I was thinking that it might be problem of the magnet but on the other hand the motor shouldn't work at all if it wouldn't get a signal from the magnet, right ?!
And in any case it doesn't explain the problem with the power sensor at all...

Did anyone else experience similar problems and is there possibly a solution to fix it?

Any help would be highly appreciated!!

Thanks a lot in advance :)
a.
Click to expand...

I'm having the same problem by using the fake channel with a Garmin 64S. Battery reading is fine but speed is fixed to 25.x
No changes on the bike setup. Looks like there's a bug in the transfer protocol.
 
Thegiampi said:
I'm having the same problem by using the fake channel with a Garmin 64S. Battery reading is fine but speed is fixed to 25.x
No changes on the bike setup. Looks like there's a bug in the transfer protocol.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Today I will put the original wheel with the original magnet back to check if it works with the stock components, but I doubt it, let's see...
Can you possibly check what firmware version you have (motor and TCU firmware as shown in MC App)?
 
James_MTB said:
From Antony at bikescene

"Its just a rubber tube cut up with a plastic shim to secure it at the bottom. We’ve made a template so it’s easier to make in the future. The top section is just held in place with double sided automotive trim tape. This section acts as protection for when stones get caught up there too. "
Click to expand...

Brilliant! The ultimate solution, and very neat. Well done Antony - you should have been involved in the bike design from the outset...

Flap.JPG
 
Have you ever tried to pedal without assist? I ran out of battery yesterday 3km before I was home and it felt so darn heavy. Does the motor add any resistance or is it just the TL 2019 is just so heavy and tires add so much resistance.
 
Koo said:
Have you ever tried to pedal without assist? I ran out of battery yesterday 3km before I was home and it felt so darn heavy. Does the motor add any resistance or is it just the TL 2019 is just so heavy and tires add so much resistance.
Click to expand...

I've tried it just for fun the other day, wondering why I could not keep up with hybrid bike on the way to work. Did quick swap of tires on Levo, and compared it to my old Lapierre Zesty (although 29" vs 26" wheels, so not very good comparison). To compensate different weight of bikes I've run Zesty with stuffed backpack.

I've realized three things:
a) yes there is little bit of resistance from motor itself (tested on the stand, decoupled from wheel)
b) tires add up quite a lot (original Butcher vs slick Conti Speed King 2.2) but depends on pressure too
c) after run with motor support I tend to shift for harder gears that on normal bike since it feels too slow

My strategy, if I ever run out of juice, is to pump up the tires. It makes quite a difference. Plus I'll go for easier gears and higher cadence...
 
@Highflyer I think you have come up with the best solution so far.
  • It should solve the problem.
  • Keeps the back of the motor open for ventilation.
  • And it looks good.
Looking back at post #1,034 which shows a recessed area, makes me wonder if Specialized forgot to fit a rubber flap/bridge? Their current "sponge" solution seems like it's a knee jerk reaction to adopt the current forum solution (at that time). They probably passed it by the engineers for their approval, rather than asking them to come up with a solution.
 
Last edited:
Don't mean to rubbish your shit shield, but I think crap will still get in :-(
 
Indigo said:
@Highflyer I think you have come up with the best solution so far.
  • It should solve the problem.
  • Keeps the back of the motor open for ventilation.
  • And it looks good.
Looking back at post #1,034 which shows a recessed area, makes me wonder if Specialized forgot to fit a rubber flap/bridge? Their current "sponge" solution seems like it's a knee jerk reaction to adopt the current forum solution (at that time). They probably passed it by the engineers for their approval, rather than asking them to come up with a solution.
Click to expand...

Disagree sorry.... #1,034 is the best solution not #1,042. The foam option from Specialized is okayish and good for a temp fix but #1,034 gets my vote (y). Please take note @Specialized Rider Care.
Post #1,042 will definately stop some of the crap but not All of it.
When the rear shock is at half or full compression the swing arm raises which exposes the hole.

@Indigo have a look at the photo below and you will see what I mean. The photo is with the rear shock at full compression and the rear wheel removed. As you can see, it is a BIG hole. Debris from the spinning rear wheel is still going to find its way in if you go with the #1,042 solution.

Gap 002.jpg
 
James_MTB said:
From Antony at bikescene

"Its just a rubber tube cut up with a plastic shim to secure it at the bottom. We’ve made a template so it’s easier to make in the future. The top section is just held in place with double sided automotive trim tape. This section acts as protection for when stones get caught up there too. "
Click to expand...
Is there any chance to get one of these things from your LBS? I love the solution!
 
James_MTB said:
From Antony at bikescene

"Its just a rubber tube cut up with a plastic shim to secure it at the bottom. We’ve made a template so it’s easier to make in the future. The top section is just held in place with double sided automotive trim tape. This section acts as protection for when stones get caught up there too. "
Click to expand...

I think this is the best solution so far as well but I am only asking myself if the hole was also designed for cooling purposes? If so, then the sponge would be the best solution although I also think it clog/block rapidly. Anyone any ideas about this?
 
Specialized Maastricht said:
I think this is the best solution so far as well but I am only asking myself if the hole was also designed for cooling purposes? If so, then the sponge would be the best solution although I also think it clog/block rapidly. Anyone any ideas about this?
Click to expand...

see post #747 second paragraph
 
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