The Official BLEvo Thread

[Shane’s1000rr]

Warranty aside, if you derestrict it and come flying out of the woods and pile into a bus-stop full of nuns, you'll probably find yourself in the and Specialized won't be there to pay your legal fees.
However, if there are no bus-stops containing the afore mentioned nuns near your local woods, you should be ok with this example.

Be too busy dishing out the kiss of life to them nuns rather than worry about that warranty ?

 

[Stumpy]

my lbs says that using other apps does void the warranty. If they have to send battery or motor back to specialized they can find out other apps have been used and in one case they already had to deal with specialized neglecting the warranty.

Versus

So in short, would you say that if you derestrict your bike using Blevo, and then have a problem, as long as you reset your settings back to standard using Mission Control, everything should be fine if you have to take your bike back to the shop?

That's exactly what I was told by my Specialized dealer.

and that's just a couple of recent examples that were easy to quote, there's probably xx amount more for both points of view...

So still not conclusive and only conjecture.... My use case is I've got a ride out on tarmac from home to the woods and then back again afterward, my typical road speed is above the limit of the motor and I don't want to use MY energy on the tarmac when I'd rather save every last drop for the woods .... so... I'm thinking to increase the limit for the road - I personally don't think I'd need or use it off-road.

Personal choice and risk tolerance level I guess

To be definitive I guess we need to hear about a case where someone had de-restricted and Spesh would not fix...?

 

[Shane’s1000rr]

Versus





and that's just a couple of recent examples that were easy to quote, there's probably xx amount more for both points of view...

So still not conclusive and only conjecture.... My use case is I've got a ride out on tarmac from home to the woods and then back again afterward, my typical road speed is above the limit of the motor and I don't want to use MY energy on the tarmac when I'd rather save every last drop for the woods .... so... I'm thinking to increase the limit for the road - I personally don't think I'd need or use it off-road.

Personal choice and risk tolerance level I guess

To be definitive I guess we need to hear about a case where someone had de-restricted and Spesh would not fix...?

I don’t think there is one only ones I’ve heard are all positive if you don’t want to deristrict bigger front cog for tarmac might be better as I agree mate don’t really need more in the woods personal preference we all like different set ups

 

[DEADMEAT]

Warranty aside, if you derestrict it and come flying out of the woods and pile into a bus-stop full of nuns, you'll probably find yourself in the and Specialized won't be there to pay your legal fees.
However, if there are no bus-stops containing the afore mentioned nuns near your local woods, you should be ok with this example.

Haha, don't get me started on the ethics of this. Whilst it's supposedly fine for the lycra brigade to do 40mph on busy public roads with non existent, gripless skinny tyres, terrible brakes or none at all, 30cm wide handlebars that offer no control whatsoever and the worst possible riding position imaginable, pedestrians on UK streets are literally losing their lives because of the fundamental inadequacies of these bikes, and E-Mountain Bikers are the ones being targeted as a speed/danger problem?
After the case last year involving a woman who died after being hit by a cyclist in London who just couldn't stop in time because he had no brakes, there was a lot of talk about the law requiring all bikes to have a front brake which is obviously a good thing, and i totally agree, but when i'm riding along on my Kenevo, the things that stick out to me are:

Even with unlimited assistance you'd struggle to get any bike with proper mountain bike tires up the sort of speeds roadies do.

I'm in a fairly high and upright position giving me a better view and more spacial awareness than any other vehicle on the road.

My bike is purpose built with handling and maneuverability as the priority, not speed, and is literally the most responsive, safest thing on the road.

I have massive tyres and massive brakes, which mean i will out brake ANYTHING on the road from 40 - 0.... Anything, any car, any motorbike and certainly any road bike, i'd only be beaten by someone with enough legs to get a normal DH bike up to those speeds, which aint really gonna happen in the first place.

I could go on, but the crux of my point is that it feels mightily unfair being stuck at 15.5mph when i'm on the safest bike on earth, then being overtaken by roadies doing twice my speed with less than half my ability to stop.

Argue with that

 

[PaoloBLEvo]

I really like the smart heart rate mode of BLevo, but my lbs says that using other apps does void the warranty. If they have to send battery or motor back to specialized they can find out other apps have been used and in one case they already had to deal with specialized neglecting the warranty. Somebody here already had trouble with that?

The warranty is broken only if you change the limit speed.. you can use the Smart functionalities..

 

[DEADMEAT]

The warranty is broken only if you change the limit speed.. you can use the Smart functionalities..

That's probably the tenth time you've said that in this thread
I know you feel you HAVE to keep saying that, but i think i can safely speak for everyone and say WE KNOW THAT ALREADY...
What we don't know, is wether or not Specialized can tell you've done that using diagnostics, all this beating round the bush is annoying

 

[davegixer]

Be too busy dishing out the kiss of life to them nuns rather than worry about that warranty ?

Actually laughing right now

 

[davegixer]

Haha, don't get me started on the ethics of this. Whilst it's supposedly fine for the lycra brigade to do 40mph on busy public roads with non existent, gripless skinny tyres, terrible brakes or none at all, 30cm wide handlebars that offer no control whatsoever and the worst possible riding position imaginable, pedestrians on UK streets are literally losing their lives because of the fundamental inadequacies of these bikes, and E-Mountain Bikers are the ones being targeted as a speed/danger problem?
After the case last year involving a woman who died after being hit by a cyclist in London who just couldn't stop in time because he had no brakes, there was a lot of talk about the law requiring all bikes to have a front brake which is obviously a good thing, and i totally agree, but when i'm riding along on my Kenevo, the things that stick out to me are:

Even with unlimited assistance you'd struggle to get any bike with proper mountain bike tires up the sort of speeds roadies do.

I'm in a fairly high and upright position giving me a better view and more spacial awareness than any other vehicle on the road.

My bike is purpose built with handling and maneuverability as the priority, not speed, and is literally the most responsive, safest thing on the road.

I have massive tyres and massive brakes, which mean i will out brake ANYTHING on the road from 40 - 0.... Anything, any car, any motorbike and certainly any road bike, i'd only be beaten by someone with enough legs to get a normal DH bike up to those speeds, which aint really gonna happen in the first place.

I could go on, but the crux of my point is that it feels mightily unfair being stuck at 15.5mph when i'm on the safest bike on earth, then being overtaken by roadies doing twice my speed with less than half my ability to stop.

Argue with that

I agree with most of your thoughts, I guess my main concern is more relevant to the whole future of E-Bikes; if the speed creeps up we could enter a realm where E-Bikes become a vehicle and then require tax, insurance etc and will not be allowed on any of the MTB trails. So, if the speed limit preserves our trail use, then it's fine with me.
Don't get me wrong - I'm a speed nut, and just this morning I hit the speed limiter pedalling on fast single tracks, but would I want it faster? Yes, of course, but not at the expense of the hobby. I've had dirt bikes for decades, MX, Enduro, Trials and Trail, and finding somewhere to ride in the UK is a PITA, I'd hate that to happen to E-Bikes as it would remove the whole point of them (for me).

Just checked Mission Control from this morning's ride, I hit 42km/h downhill, and pedalled past the limiter to 33km/h on the flat. So there's still speed to be had.

A huge debate, and a very interesting one, and we're probably in the wrong thread to have it. Apologies if there is a speed limiter thread @Rob Hancill ?

 

[grayedout]

Is there a reset to factory on in the BLEV app ? also is it thought that specialised can check on there end if you have messed with the setting ?

 

[DEADMEAT]

I don’t think there is one only ones I’ve heard are all positive if you don’t want to deristrict bigger front cog for tarmac might be better as I agree mate don’t really need more in the woods personal preference we all like different set ups

Not quite sure what you're on about, assumed drunk typing, but whilst were talking gear ratios, i have to say the stock gearing on the Kenevo is utterly ridiculous.

Firstly i'd just say i rarely hit speeds on tarmac that i do on a dh track so i don't quite see why the need for a higher gear ratio would be just for road use?

Years ago i settled on 40 - 11 (3.64/1 Ratio) as my perfect hardest gear, ensuring i never run out of cadence on any of the fastest tracks i ride.
38 - 11 (3:45/1) left me a little short but improved my climbing gears when the largest rear cog available was a 36t, so i usually ran that.

The stock 32 - 11 (2.91/1) on this bike is an absolute joke, and the largest sprocket you can get away with is a 36t, so i fitted one straight away.
But with a highest ratio of 3.27/1, it still leaves you spinning out if you try to pedal at high speed. Fitting a 10 toothed cassette in conjunction with the 36t sprocket gets me as close as i can to the 40 - 11 configuration as possible at 3.6/1, and is as hard as you can go without resorting the the overpriced and apparently unreliable (not tried it myself) E-Thirteen 9 toothed cassette, if you do choose that though you have the option of running smaller front sprockets again and improving the chain/suspension interaction problems that are possibly created by using a 36t front sprocket.

Any effect using a 36t on the front has on the lower gears would be solved by fitting, for example, a Hope 10 - 48 cassette, the stock GX mech is designed to shift up to a 48t.
Lowest stock gearing at 32 - 42 gives you a 1.31/1 ratio, fitting the Hope 10 - 48 cassette with a 36t front sprocket gives a 1.33/1 lowest gear, so almost totally eliminates the problem of gearing up the whole system by fitting a 36t sprocket.

I hope that's clear enough, basically i totally recommend a 36t front with a 10 - 48 rear if you want a normal, adult range of gears, rather than one from a kids bike.

 

[DEADMEAT]

Is there a reset to factory on in the BLEV app ? also is it thought that specialised can check on there end if you have messed with the setting ?

Why does it need that when you can just do it on Mission Control? But yes there is...

As for Specialized knowing, I literally just posted the same question, seems the person here who probably knows for sure would rather not say on record...

 

[Shane’s1000rr]

Not quite sure what you're on about, assumed drunk typing, but whilst were talking gear ratios, i have to say the stock gearing on the Kenevo is utterly ridiculous.

Firstly i'd just say i rarely hit speeds on tarmac that i do on a dh track so i don't quite see why the need for a higher gear ratio would be just for road use?

Years ago i settled on 40 - 11 (3.64/1 Ratio) as my perfect hardest gear, ensuring i never run out of cadence on any of the fastest tracks i ride, 38 - 11 (3:45/1) left me a little short but improved my climbing gears when the largest rear cog available was a 36t, so i usually ran that.

The stock 32 - 11 (2.91/1) is an absolute joke, and the largest sprocket you can get away with on a Kenevo is 36t, so i fitted one straight away, but with a highest ratio of 3.27/1, it still leaves you spinning out if you try to pedal at high speed. Fitting a 10 toothed cassette in conjunction with the 36t sprocket gets me as close as i can to the 40 - 11 configuration as possible at 3.6/1, and is as hard as you can go without resorting the the overpriced and apparently unreliable (not tried it myself) E-Thirteen 9 toothed cassette, if you do choose that though you have the option of running smaller front sprockets again and improving the chain/suspension interaction problems that are possibly created by using a 36t front sprocket.

Any effect using a 36t on the front has on the lower gears would be solved by fitting, for example, a Hope 10 - 48 cassette.
Lowest stock gearing at 32 - 42 gives you a 1.31/1 ratio, fitting the Hope 10 - 48 cassette with a 36t front sprocket gives a 1.33/1 lowest gear, so almost totally eliminates the problem of gearing up the whole system by fitting a 36t sprocket.

I hope that's clear enough, basically i totally recommend a 36t front with a 10 - 48 rear if you want a normal, adult range of gears, rather than one from a kids bike.

Not quite sure what you're on about, assumed drunk typing, but whilst were talking gear ratios, i have to say the stock gearing on the Kenevo is utterly ridiculous.

Firstly i'd just say i rarely hit speeds on tarmac that i do on a dh track so i don't quite see why the need for a higher gear ratio would be just for road use?

Years ago i settled on 40 - 11 (3.64/1 Ratio) as my perfect hardest gear, ensuring i never run out of cadence on any of the fastest tracks i ride.
38 - 11 (3:45/1) left me a little short but improved my climbing gears when the largest rear cog available was a 36t, so i usually ran that.

The stock 32 - 11 (2.91/1) on this bike is an absolute joke, and the largest sprocket you can get away with is a 36t, so i fitted one straight away.
But with a highest ratio of 3.27/1, it still leaves you spinning out if you try to pedal at high speed. Fitting a 10 toothed cassette in conjunction with the 36t sprocket gets me as close as i can to the 40 - 11 configuration as possible at 3.6/1, and is as hard as you can go without resorting the the overpriced and apparently unreliable (not tried it myself) E-Thirteen 9 toothed cassette, if you do choose that though you have the option of running smaller front sprockets again and improving the chain/suspension interaction problems that are possibly created by using a 36t front sprocket.

Any effect using a 36t on the front has on the lower gears would be solved by fitting, for example, a Hope 10 - 48 cassette, the stock GX mech is designed to shift up to a 48t.
Lowest stock gearing at 32 - 42 gives you a 1.31/1 ratio, fitting the Hope 10 - 48 cassette with a 36t front sprocket gives a 1.33/1 lowest gear, so almost totally eliminates the problem of gearing up the whole system by fitting a 36t sprocket.

I hope that's clear enough, basically i totally recommend a 36t front with a 10 - 48 rear if you want a normal, adult range of gears, rather than one from a kids bike.

i don’t drink and as I said everyone has their own preference me included more teeth on the front works for me obviously not for everyone but I ain’t no pro I just enjoy riding bikes your obviously a very knowledge fella cheers for the advice

 

[DEADMEAT]

i don’t drink and as I said everyone has their own preference me included more teeth on the front works for me obviously not for everyone but I ain’t no pro I just enjoy riding bikes your obviously a very knowledge fella cheers for the advice

Sorry mate, it's just you seem to be allergic to punctuation, you know, commas and that, makes it really hard to read

 

[Shane’s1000rr]

Sorry mate, it's just you seem to be allergic to punctuation, you know, commas and that, makes it really hard to read

Never did educational stuff intelligence is very close to madness like a said I just ride bikes leave the mechanic to work all the fancy stuff out you have your self a good night fella ?

 

[Tori]

Hey Paolo . . . I have an issue with BLEvo you might be able to resolve.

I now have a 2nd Levo battery. On a recent ride, I started Bike Monitor and rode until I needed to do a battery change. I continued the tour with the new battery.

The problem is this : when I export the tour to Strava, it only uploads the part of the tour with the 2nd battery . . . yet in the tour I have all the details and correct length of the tour. I have tried the TCX and GPX exports and imports to Strava . . . all have the same problem, I am only able to see the portion of the ride with the second battery . . .

Are you able to help resolve this?

 

[Dusty]

I have one, very accurate

At what heart rate do you guys aim for to get the desired fitness ?

 

[Tori]

Hey Paolo . . . I have an issue with BLEvo you might be able to resolve.

I now have a 2nd Levo battery. On a recent ride, I started Bike Monitor and rode until I needed to do a battery change. I continued the tour with the new battery.

The problem is this : when I export the tour to Strava, it only uploads the part of the tour with the 2nd battery . . . yet in the tour I have all the details and correct length of the tour. I have tried the TCX and GPX exports and imports to Strava . . . all have the same problem, I am only able to see the portion of the ride with the second battery . . .

Are you able to help resolve this?

I spoke to Paolo last night; he indicated I just needed to merge two TCX files (each battery had a separate folder on my device). Thanks Paolo

 

[Tori]

At what heart rate do you guys aim for to get the desired fitness ?

If I'm using BLEvo Smart Heart rate I usually set at about 150 - 155.

 

[Al Boneta]

After the great debate in another thread I decided to try the app out on an old spare battery to see what the fuss was about.
The first thing I noticed is even if you don’t change the top speed, the app is so much better than the mission control app. I never use the mission control app after I set my bikes up initially so I wouldn’t use it all that much.
The app told me I was traveling at 35.7mph, but it really didn’t feel that fast. It sure didn’t feel like that 20mph brick wall the bike hits when it hits the governor.
I’d have to experiment with it, but it’s not really for me
All in all, it wasn’t as evil as I thought it was going to be.
Bonus points for having Italian voice controls. It makes me miss my grandma

 

[ccrdave]

Well i just had my firmware updated to ver 23 wish i hadnt ver 22 plus BLEvo was miles better.
Just my opinion of course

 

[Al Boneta]

Well i just had my firmware updated to ver 23 wish i hadnt ver 22 plus BLEvo was miles better.
Just my opinion of course

It may be your opinion, but you’re probably right

 

[Stumpy]

It may be you’re opinion, but you’re probably right

I’m not sure if I’m unlucky or not? Having only owned my Levo for a few weeks, it shipped with ver 23 so I know no different!

However, if 22 was better it must of been superb as 23 feels good to me....

 

[Donnie797]

I’m not sure if I’m unlucky or not? Having only owned my Levo for a few weeks, it shipped with ver 23 so I know no different!

However, if 22 was better it must of been superb as 23 feels good to me....

No reason to feel unlucky, x.23 is amazing compared to x.22.
It was BLevo combined with x.22 which greatly improved the motor assist of the standard x.22.
I'm absolutely happy with x.23 as well - plenty of assist, more than I need in Turbo mode.

 

[Shane’s1000rr]

No reason to feel unlucky, x.23 is amazing compared to x.22.
It was BLevo combined with x.22 which greatly improved the motor assist of the standard x.22.
I'm absolutely happy with x.23 as well - plenty of assist, more than I need in Turbo mode.

Got to agree, I am happy with .23, seems smoother somehow.

 

[ccrdave]

Yes of course its 22 plus blevo 22 on its own was horrid but 22 plus blevo was much more versatile. You could tune the motor to suit what you wanted to do, hard and punchy for techy climbs, fluid for peddly flowy singletrack or battery saving for long rides. Now all you can do is get greater or lesser effects of the same mode.
It just amazes me that one guy @PaoloBLEvo can do so much more than the mighty Spesh.
Still just my opinion

 

[Al Boneta]

Yes of course its 22 plus blevo 22 on its own was horrid but 22 plus blevo was much more versatile. You could tune the motor to suit what you wanted to do, hard and punchy for techy climbs, fluid for peddly flowy singletrack or battery saving for long rides. Now all you can do is get greater or lesser effects of the same mode.
It just amazes me that one guy @PaoloBLEvo can do so much more than the mighty Spesh.
Still just my opinion

Paolo is able to operate without restriction (see what I did there?) and bureaucracy.

They have to adhere to all applicable laws and compliance standards.

Specialized has to make something simple and intuitive that won’t expose them to liability.
I worked for Specialized at one point in my life and it was the most stressful job I ever had. You would be amazed at all of the ideas and concepts that never end up seeing the light of day.

 

[Tori]

Yes of course its 22 plus blevo 22 on its own was horrid but 22 plus blevo was much more versatile. You could tune the motor to suit what you wanted to do, hard and punchy for techy climbs, fluid for peddly flowy singletrack or battery saving for long rides. Now all you can do is get greater or lesser effects of the same mode.
It just amazes me that one guy @PaoloBLEvo can do so much more than the mighty Spesh.
Still just my opinion

Having a 3rd party app like BLEvo is a godsend. I didn't honestly consider it prior to my Levo purchase, but I'm damn glad I got a bike that has a bit of software like this. My partner rides a Merida with the Steps system, and she's always very envious of the data fields I have on hand, and the heap of functionality that BLEvo offers me. Thinks like heart rate integration with my bike are something out of reach on all other bikes at this point.

Dave; sorry to hear you're not enjoying x.23. Perhaps you could take your bike back to your dealer and ask for the downgraded software version? You'd think they'd be able to do this?

 

[bigborett]

I had my motor and battery upgraded at the LBS the other day. I had fiddled, derestricted, tampered and generally stuffed around with the software via both BLevo and the other one, can't remember the name, the bluetooth one, reset everything with mission control before they did the upgrade and no mention was made of my tampering.
I would sought of expect the average tech to say something if it came up in their software that the bike had been tampered with. So I doubt that it does.

Oh and Georgia Leslie has stated on EMBN that the use of the apps will void the warranty.

Don't be scared, just do it.

 

[Al Boneta]

I now have a Levo that goes 28mph without The BLEvo app or any other ”cheat” device.

I just put the motor from a Turbo Vado 3.0 in it and problem solved?

I don’t have to worry about voiding the warranty either

I still like BLEvo more than mission control

 

[bigborett]

I now have a Levo that goes 28mph without The BLEvo app or any other ”cheat” device.

I just put the motor from a Turbo Vado 3.0 in it and problem solved?

I don’t have to worry about voiding the warranty either

I still like BLEvo more than mission control

Bolts straight in?