What did you do to your EBike this week?

(^^not bad for a bike that covered 200 miles from new before Canyon's battery thing so had a year unridden & now on 250miles😧)

This whole Canyon battery thing sounds outrageous. Did you guys got any compensation for the downtime?
 
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I hit 10 000km on my gen4 cx last week (in 1,5 year),it was getting bit noisier on the rough stuff, i decided to open it up, and re grease it. Looks like it got a little bit water ingress. Didn't took any picture afterwards, but I used a hefty amount Motorex white grease on the cogs, and the clunking noise is barely noticeable anymore. Also replaced the bearing protection rings.

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Since i bought the used Kenevo, i felt the overrun was inconsistent, and too long in Turbo mode, ordered new sprag bearings, and replaced them. It feels pretty normal now.

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Damn! Nice job at that. My motor has developed some crank stickiness, probably from water ingress. I'm contemplating sending it for repairs or opening it up myself.
 
Laitoin helikopteriteippiä tarranauhan alle!
Samoin teippasin,sen jälkeen Butyylinauhaa 6mm,kiinniyskohtaan nippuside kiristys.Butyyli estää liikkumisen ,on myös helppo irroittaa tarvittaessa .Massan jjälki poistuu esim,wd 40 tai muulla öljyllä.
 
I put a 35mm stem on the Scott (bbs01b) aka The Wine Fetcher, and went out for a ride. I built it about 5 years ago and today wondered why on earth I hadn't changed from a 55mm to a smaller stem years ago 🤔. Made a change from riding the Cannondale and covers flattish ground quicker.

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Sent fox x2 factory off for warranty work due to some weird squishing sound
They fix or replace it for free as it was a silent recall
also sent back MT7 brakes under warranty as master reservoir burst again and they can’t be repaired
fully expect Magura to say it’s my fault but truth is they just failed on a trail

strategically sent off when I’ll be away for 2 weeks
Ok so back from holiday
Fox we’re class with their warranty all done in 3 days just straight swap for full retail and with levo tune aswell. After mentioning which bike it was

Magura give them credit as well after hearing nothing fired an email to make sure they had recieved my brake. Replied straight away and again just a straight swap for full retail including changing the coloured discs to what was on 🤟 the calipers
wasn’t expecting Magura to do that thought they would just change the lever reservoir tbh

fantastic warranty from both
 
I removed my chain and measured it over 100 links with a steel tape measure, which is still the most accurate method. After 1402 miles it is only at 0.3%. (Shimano XT 12 speed).

While the chain was off, I took the opportunity to clean the jockey wheels. I use neat Hope's Sh1t Sh1fter and a stiff brush to clean the mech and cassette every time I clean the bike. But despite that, there was a surprising amount of black compacted gunk adhered to the jockey wheels that had to be scraped off with a small screwdriver. Must be a mix of vegetation and oil, compressed between the chain and the jockey. Better off without it!

With the bike and motor at 3675 miles and over 4 years old, I thought I'd test the crank and BB. I spun the crank and it was free, silent, and spun for quite a while. :) No sideways or left-right movement in the crank, indicating that the BB is OK. :) Pedal bearings also OK. :)
 
So last night:
  • I fitted the new jockey wheels.
  • Fitted the new TI brake rotor bolts
  • Serviced the PNW dropper.
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I left the Moterra at home and took the Wine Fetcher for a spin with it's new manual 27.2 mm dropper (under saddle lever). It works well, once you get used to taking a hand off the bars to operate, and a lot better than not having a dropper post on the bike.

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Replaced my lads Sram Code Brakes with Hope v4's.

Also replaced the rotors with Hope ones and had to change to useing Hope post mounts as the ones on his bike did not take the hope calipers

Tempted to replace my Codes RSC's now
 
Heavy rain this afternoon so instead of riding checked wife and my Rails wheels runout and spoke tension. Both have Hunt E_ALL eMTB wheels which are still spot on. Not the lightest but they handle serious abuse no probs. :😎
 
It put on the studded tires from last year. Tried to do the front tubeless, but it leaked a lot through the sidewalls. So I ended up with tubes.

I also mounted a new rear Galfer brake disk using my new Park Tool centerlock socket. So far so good. Then, Galfer purple e-bike pads.
However, When pushing the pistons back in the caliper, one of the pistons got stuck. Then, a small leak appeared. I finally got the piston back in place and mounted the pads, but no joy.
At best, I have to bleed it. At worst, a new caliper is the solution. I'm off to my LBS today to buy Shimano mineral oil and a bleed kit and take it from there...
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It put on the studded tires from last year. Tried to do the front tubeless, but it leaked a lot through the sidewalls. So I ended up with tubes.
.............................
If you had used a latex-based sealant, then I believe that if you had persisted, the sidewalls would have sealed. It is the one big advantage that latex-based sealants have over other (water-based?) sealants. When you think about it, if the sealant can fix big holes, so it should be able to deal with porosity.

After you have added sealant and inflated the tyre (to several times your normal pressure), shake the wheel in all directions in order to get the sealant all over the inside of the tyre. Stand the wheel on a bucket or other suitable container. This will concentrate the sealant on to the sidewalls. Give it 30 mins, check the air pressure, shake as before then replace the wheel on to the bucket, the other way up. The higher air pressure helps to force the sealant into the pores more quickly.
 
At best, I have to bleed it. At worst, a new caliper is the solution. I'm off to my LBS today to buy Shimano mineral oil and a bleed kit and take it from there...
I did my first ever bicycle disk brake bleeding yesterday aftrenoon. All went well, the rear brake is OK again.
 
Replaced a pair of Code R’s that I broke a piston on while servicing it (🤦🏼‍♂️) with a pair of DB8s that I picked up from Banana Industries for £45. It seemed a no-brainier when a single piston was £25. I’ve been more than happy with DB8s I’ve ridden on other bikes (including long alpine descents and bike park days) with their 220mm rotors.

Also can any one tell how straight Uberbike rotors are? I’m pretty sure my Galfers had never actually been really straight since I’ve had them.
 
We have a what did you buy for your ebike thread, but I don't see a What did you do to your ebike thread

So here it is

Mods delete if not applicable
Was successful in installing a dropper after dropping the motor and then thought wrecked a motor to display or motor to sensor connector only to fine that connectors between the two are different. Next up figuring out how to tidy stuff up, check everything works, rearrange the cables and put everything back together..
 
What bothers me is if I get run over by a bus tomorrow, she sells them for what I told her I paid for them.

I have another expensive hobby - F class shooting.

In my safe is a small notebook that contains lists of items from all my hobbies including the MTBs.

It then has the items real values alongside.

Whilst she (wife) will likely be angry when she sees the totals, at least she will not underprice their sale.
 
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