What did you do to your EBike this week?

Grundy said:
Nice, I want to get one for my gen 3 Levo. I can’t decide which length will be the best to go for. I want to slam it as much as possible for asthetics. My bike is an S5 with 280mm max insertion
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Use the SRAM calculator tool to figure it out.
www.sram.com

Calculator - RockShox

Calculator, RockShox
www.sram.com www.sram.com

My S4 Levo SL was 280 insertion depth, and I needed 270 collar to rails. If I took a 34.9 width it said 175 was my max… but with a shimmed 30.9, I get a 200mm drop.
My bike was a ‘frame only’ when I got it, and came with the shim. Mine is slammed, so the bulge doesn’t look quite so odd!

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NMNomad said:
Purchased some Revgrips ergos. Hopefully it will help with the hand fatigue on long rides.
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I’d be interested to know which ones you got and how you get on with them as we’re think about them for my wife’s bike as arm pump is something she’s always suffered with. Do they feel weird and do they help or should she just run cheaper, thicker grips? Ta
 
Zero cool said:
I’d be interested to know which ones you got and how you get on with them as we’re think about them for my wife’s bike as arm pump is something she’s always suffered with. Do they feel weird and do they help or should she just run cheaper, thicker grips? Ta
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Raised the bars on my wife's 2022 Trek Rail and her arm pump disappeared. The fork steerer was of course cut silly short to enhance show room appeal.

Used a BBB TubeExtend BHP-22. As long as the extender is at least as strong as the fork steerer (which the BBB part is) then there are no safety issue. IIRC it is eMTB rated, whatever that means (probably just that it's fjcking strong).
 
irie said:
Raised the bars on my wife's 2022 Trek Rail and her arm pump disappeared. The fork steerer was of course cut silly short to enhance show room appeal.

Used a BBB TubeExtend BHP-22. As long as the extender is at least as strong as the fork steerer (which the BBB part is) then there are no safety issue. IIRC it is eMTB rated, whatever that means (probably just that it's fjcking strong).
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Cheers, the bike has 170mm forks so the bars are actually quite high anyway. She’s not ridden it in anything hard enough (yesterday was she maiden voyage, but with small kids it was just a few short flow laps. We’re just looking at possible options once we start hitting bigger stuff sans urchins.
 
Zero cool said:
Cheers, the bike has 170mm forks so the bars are actually quite high anyway. She’s not ridden it in anything hard enough (yesterday was she maiden voyage, but with small kids it was just a few short flow laps. We’re just looking at possible options once we start hitting bigger stuff sans urchins.
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Fork length might be 170mm but the steerer is probably cut very short. A TubeExtend raises bar height but has no effect on fork length (as below).

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Thank’s but the A2C combined with stem, spacers and bars has brought the stack height up to what she needs. That steerer extender would make it too high. I’ve also had bad experiences with cheap extenders (and bars/stems) in the past.

She’d also say it’s too ugly 😜
 
I'm not sure how to properly fit a mountain bike, I've just been relatively happy on mine, so never got serious on it. But, I do know from road bikes, that a proper fit is not intuitive. When I got my road fit done by a dedicated fitter, not a semi trained kid at a bike shop, it was transformative.

Also, it was NOT what I expected. Sometimes, we rest on the bars, when the body doesn't fit them, for my road bike, setting my foot position, seat front to back, and leg angle made my hand problems go away, and, we lowered the bars, vs. raising them. Seat type plays a part, a granny seat is different from a performance seat, etc.

I do know the guy I saw for my road bike does mountain bikes, I think he does remote fits as well, I just haven't taken the 2 hr trip to San Francisco to do it. Check out Fits by Pedro, he may have some MTB info out there.
 
She only gets armour on long rough descents (think whole days at BPW or riding in the Alps) so we’re looking to mitigate that as best we can (without One Up bars as Carbon bars are a once bitten, twice shy thing in our house).
 
Bled the brakes on my wife's Levo (running Shigura setup: Saint levers + MT5 calipers) and noticed the rear caliper started leaking from the bleed port a couple weeks later. The bike hadn’t even been ridden yet this season. Pulled the bleed screw, checked everything (looked fine), reinstalled it, applied pressure, seemed OK at first. But a week later, it was wet again.

Contacted Magura and, of course, they recommended buying a new caliper. With nothing to lose, I tried a small copper washer under the bleed screw. Problem solved. Bone dry now, even under pressure.

Cheap and simple fix that saved a caliper.

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Finally, I have my Levo SL back from the dealer after a shock and fork maintenance. I took the chance to add 10 mm to the Lyrik, so the bike is now 160/150 mm. I’m excited to get on the trails as soon as possible.

I also replaced the axles and bushings on my DMR V12 pedals and the rear Guide RE with Code R, which I already have on the front. According to my LBS, the Guide’s lever is broken beyond repair.

So, after all, the new season can start!

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Built up, set up, firmware updated, helitaped, fully charged
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and ready for its maiden voyage once the kids are dropped off at school. Hopefully I should be able to iron out any teething niggles on some local secret tracks.

It’s nothing fancy, but it’s all basic stuff that works and is reliable (it’s a Core 3 but my wife nicked the Fox suspension for her Core 1).
 
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Zed. said:
What did I do?

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Rode it again 😎

Okay, yesterday we fitted & bled the new Maven ultimate brakes so today was testing and bedding-in joy 🤨

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And the weather was horrible so Bpw at its finest 😎

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Managed to use all of the travel 😎

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And most of the rear travel 🙄
Maybe a few psi mort for tomorrows ride…

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As usual, managed to heat the brakes even with this weather!

Rich.
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Your rear brake looks odd, have you noticed? Looks like pads are not contacting whole disc? And it`s bleeding also 😀
 
I had a creak I thought was coming from the headset/fork.

Went round with an allen key and tightened everything I saw on the bike and the creak was still there so decided to do a lowers service on the fork and clean out the headset. Upper headset bearing was a bit rough so changed that and ... creak still there

In hindsight it's obvious but the main pivot is behind this cover, tightned that and no more creak. Will see if it loosens itself again, I've never changed any frame bearings before, not sure if I'd attempt myself or take it a bike shop.

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ZR1 said:
I've never changed any frame bearings before, not sure if I'd attempt myself or take it a bike shop.
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Before, I used to take my bike to the bike shop for repairs.

Then I got smart and started to do my own repairs.

Now my bike shop repairs the things I've fracked up ;) .


(Paraphrased from some YT clip)
 
Bndit said:
Your rear brake looks odd, have you noticed? Looks like pads are not contacting whole disc? And it`s bleeding also 😀
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thats the dögshit magura discs - used as they were the only 203mm diameter discs i had that also were centrelock compatable AND had provision to take a magnet to signal the motor's speed-sensor :cautious:

a little bit of 'it'll fit so I'll use it for a ride (or two / three / four) before relenting and swapping the DT Swiss wheel (centrelock) for a Nukeproof Horizon Pro wheel (6-bolt):p

Rich.
 
Serviced my Oneup V2 dropper with the V2.1 service kit. Hadn't been serviced since being installed about 4,000 miles ago which is about 500 hours. It was fjcking disgusting and amazing that it was still working OK when the recommended service interval is 50-100 hours!
 
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VWsurfbum said:
At least it will give you an excuse to buy a decent rotor.
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Can you recommend a decent rotor that will fit my Codes and won’t break the bank? I was liking the lever feel of the thicker rotors. Not sure how thick you can go with Codes (and the wife’s DB8s)
 
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