Kenevo SL Official 2022 Kenevo SL (KSL) Megathread!

alleeex said:
I’d say that’s not normal at all and you should get in contact with your local Spesh dealer so they can handle the warranty.
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got my main battery and the extender analyzed. They said it had to be lower than 75% before 300 cycles. So hugely dissapointed. They proposed however 50% discount on a new battery. Below the analysis.

MAIN BATTERY
1747390025034.png


EXTENDER

1747390052055.png
 
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Thanks. Glad I started looking into this. At 65kg, I seemed to be using all the rear travel regularly, so puchased some voulme spacers, which I was just about to fit. But after further investigation, it turns out I have fallen foul of the 2022 Fox Float X2 issues. Air getting into the oil seems to be a common thing on 2021 - 2023 shocks.
I contacted FOX to book it in for a service, but it turns out I am just within my UK 2 Year warranty by a few days! It has been shipped off to FOX this morning for a warranty repair.
EatSleepRideRepeat said:
Not that much of a difference if you take 18mm SAG (60mm stroke), 18.75mm (62.5mm) or 19.5mm (65mm).
I'd go with the 18.75mm SAG for the 62.5mm Stroke as the specialized data sheet says. If you set your SAG to 18.75mm but the stroke was only 60mm you're still only at 31.25% SAG. So no Problem, unless you're always bottoming out.
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cozzy said:
Its so much easier to whip the motor out. There is a moulded tube in the frame that the gear & dropper cable go through.
The electrical cable just ran next to the battery. Well this is how it was in mine anyway.
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Hi,

I’m trying to sort the cable routing as it seems like I missed the tube when I pushed the cable through, I wanted to remove the battery to see better but I was wondering if the main electric cable going to the charging port can be unplugged from inside the frame or shall I unscrew the port from outside? Thanks in advance for your help!
 
Hi all, I’ve had my Kenevo sl for 9 months or so now. I love the bike. What I do t get is all the hate towards e-bikes. I know it sounds ridiculous but at one point I considered selling it and going back to a regular bike. So many comments from people that just made me feel shit. I ride on my own mostly. Before the kenevo I just slogged through the climbs on my own year after year. Now I can breeze them and have more fun. Is that not what it’s all about?
 
Chrysaor said:
Hi,

I’m trying to sort the cable routing as it seems like I missed the tube when I pushed the cable through, I wanted to remove the battery to see better but I was wondering if the main electric cable going to the charging port can be unplugged from inside the frame or shall I unscrew the port from outside? Thanks in advance for your help!
Click to expand...
Unscrew the 4 small torx screws out from the port outside, that will get the cable out of the way.
 
MagisterBibendi said:
Unscrew the 4 small torx screws out from the port outside, that will get the cable out of the way.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I was able to get the cable out of the way as you said and reroute the cable properly.

On a side note, I was really impressed by the cleanliness of the assembly and the perfect alignment of the battery, the motor bolts and mounting points. I have dismounted other brands with much worst tolerance but the Specialized was a breeze.
 
Evilkenevil said:
Hi all, I’ve had my Kenevo sl for 9 months or so now. I love the bike. What I do t get is all the hate towards e-bikes. I know it sounds ridiculous but at one point I considered selling it and going back to a regular bike. So many comments from people that just made me feel shit. I ride on my own mostly. Before the kenevo I just slogged through the climbs on my own year after year. Now I can breeze them and have more fun. Is that not what it’s all about?
Click to expand...
Who gives a shit about other people and their opinion
 
AdmChr said:
Can anyone confirm that a 30t chain ring will work on a Kenevo SL? Or would the chain ride the rubber chain protector in the smallest cog? Asking for a friend ;)
Click to expand...
Old post I know. But how did you find the 30T? Fit on without adjustments or issues? Thinking of dropping to a 30T myself.

Looks to be the correct one
 
only for the 1st gen, 2nd gen is 104bcd and if you want to run transmission 34t is mandatory
 
Geas said:
Whatever's wrong with you, keep it to yourself. KSL 2 comes stock with 32t. My KSL2 came with 32t and Transmission as well. Have look below (source: Turbo Kenevo SL 2 Ohlins Coil, retrieved on 2025-06-05)
View attachment 161983
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I was trying to find what spring came with the ksl ohlins edition in each size, but could find absolutely no information.
What size did you get and what spring came with it?
Cheers.
 
cozzy said:
I was trying to find what spring came with the ksl ohlins edition in each size, but could find absolutely no information.
What size did you get and what spring came with it?
Cheers.
Click to expand...
I have the normal S-works, not the Ohlins Version. Link was just regarding the 32T/34T discussion.
 
Hi all. Looking for some advice on the SL 1.2 motor. I’m noticing some noice when I apply pressure on the cranks, bit crunchy. Are you guys servicing your motors at all? The bike is only a year old. Not sure if I should start taking the motor apart, look at the sprag clutch etc
 
Evilkenevil said:
Hi all. Looking for some advice on the SL 1.2 motor. I’m noticing some noice when I apply pressure on the cranks, bit crunchy. Are you guys servicing your motors at all? The bike is only a year old. Not sure if I should start taking the motor apart, look at the sprag clutch etc
Click to expand...

send the bike in to a Spech dealer for warranty inspection as thats covered for 2 years (y)

Rich.
 
Preparing KSL for sale.
I’ve been using Rockshox AXS dropper since new which I plan to replace with original wired dropper post before putting the bike for sale.
Anyone know if the motor needs to be dropped to run the dropper cable housing? I’ve tried running it from the front without removing the motor and it seems to get hung up near the motor.
 
Yes, dropping the motor makes less of a hassle.

Easiest way is to flip the bike over, remove the rear wheel, and the rear motor bolts only.

Pivot the motor with the upper bolts still in, feed the wire.
 
MetroNeck said:
Yes, dropping the motor makes less of a hassle.

Easiest way is to flip the bike over, remove the rear wheel, and the rear motor bolts only.

Pivot the motor with the upper bolts still in, feed the wire.
Click to expand...
WOW, Thanks for the tip! Dumb question…is it easier to feed the cable housing from the seat post or from the head tube for this bike?
 
Purchased an estoria for my kenevo to try, so moved the ohlins over to the sl with a fresh new 575 spring.
I really want to take it for a session but always remember how hard it is to pedal uphill at the local bikeparks 🤣.
Will hopefully get a few uplift days in this year once fully recovered from injuries.

IMG_20250503_141017~2.jpg
 
Hi all
I wondering anyone’s had a bit of a situation trying to trace a click/creak

My KSL is just coming up to 3 years old on 1 September. It’s recently developed a creak on hard standing pedalling.

It’s not the drivetrain because it’ll do it with the chain off, if I :-
1: Lean bike to right and press in and down on left pedal
Then lean to left and press right pedal. Even a light press causes quite a click (more click than creak really). It seems to echo through the frame downtube area.

Maybe i need an accomplice with a stethoscope.

So 4 hours tinkering in the garage.

R Crank off
Drop Motor out
Clean all mountings and bolts (it was clean)
Replace, carbon grease under heads and Loctite 243 on threads
R Crank lean splines, grease - back on -torque (no chain)
Creaks

Shock front end off
Grease the top hat insets (it’s an EXT Storia)
Retorqued
Creaks

Crank off again
Check torque on main pivot bolts
Replace crank, ring etc. torque it up.
Creaks

Switch both pedals
Creaks

Rear end.
Derailleur mount Torque up (left hand thread)
Creaks

Rear axle, grease and torque up
Creaks
Switch rear wheel
Still creaks.

Fork off headset and cups out
Clean, carbon Grease cups, grease bearings
Reassemble
Creaks

What next?
Possibly remove pivot bolts and grease under heads?
Rear shock mount grease etc? Fiddly, so not done that yet

I did read about a battery creak! Anyone had that.
Thanks.
 
nB2000 said:
Hi all
I wondering anyone’s had a bit of a situation trying to trace a click/creak

My KSL is just coming up to 3 years old on 1 September. It’s recently developed a creak on hard standing pedalling.

It’s not the drivetrain because it’ll do it with the chain off, if I :-
1: Lean bike to right and press in and down on left pedal
Then lean to left and press right pedal. Even a light press causes quite a click (more click than creak really). It seems to echo through the frame downtube area.

Maybe i need an accomplice with a stethoscope.

So 4 hours tinkering in the garage.

R Crank off
Drop Motor out
Clean all mountings and bolts (it was clean)
Replace, carbon grease under heads and Loctite 243 on threads
R Crank lean splines, grease - back on -torque (no chain)
Creaks

Shock front end off
Grease the top hat insets (it’s an EXT Storia)
Retorqued
Creaks

Crank off again
Check torque on main pivot bolts
Replace crank, ring etc. torque it up.
Creaks

Switch both pedals
Creaks

Rear end.
Derailleur mount Torque up (left hand thread)
Creaks

Rear axle, grease and torque up
Creaks
Switch rear wheel
Still creaks.

Fork off headset and cups out
Clean, carbon Grease cups, grease bearings
Reassemble
Creaks

What next?
Possibly remove pivot bolts and grease under heads?
Rear shock mount grease etc? Fiddly, so not done that yet

I did read about a battery creak! Anyone had that.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Few years back I had a mysterious creak on a MTB. None of the usual cleaning and greasing fixed it. Luckily I had another MTB that was same exact spec. One by one I swapped over a component from quiet bike to creaking bike, test, repeat with another component. After several hours, Bingo! Chain ring was the culprit. It was worn out after several years of riding.
 
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