New Shimano FW update E8000 - 4.9.0, E7000/E6100 - 4.6.0, E5000 - 4.4.2

It doesn't work on 4.9.0
I know the manual says 4.8.0 but wondering if anyone has tried updating the gearing settings with 4.9.0. My buddy has a Decoy that was DI2 but he has since swapped it out for mechanical shifting and every time he gets to 1 bar on the battery he loses pedal assist due to the ECU reserving battery for shifting. I want to use ST Unlocker to change his settings to mechanical. I would rather not downgrade and after hearing that 4.9.0 was purely for derestriction it seems like it should be fine for gearing but figured I’d reach out here first
 
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Ive got a bike with stock Di2. Not updated the fw yet. Can I turn off the battery preserverance by changing my gearing type to mechanical in the stunlocker and keep the Di2 or this works only if the deraileur is also replaced with mechanical?
 
Ive got a bike with stock Di2. Not updated the fw yet. Can I turn off the battery preserverance by changing my gearing type to mechanical in the stunlocker and keep the Di2 or this works only if the deraileur is also replaced with mechanical?
yes, if your bike has FW < 4.9.0
 
By the way do you maybe know if there is a reserve for lighting preserved in the steps system and wether it is switchable or not?
 
By the way do you maybe know if there is a reserve for lighting preserved in the steps system and wether it is switchable or not?
You can change it in STUnlocker. Doesn't work with latest FWs (downgrade is required)
 
Great. Didn't notice it before. Is the reserve active only if a light source is connected or all the time?
 
yes, if your bike has FW < 4.9.0

I've got Di2 on my bike, but changed the setting in the STUnlocked to Mechanical to turn off the battery preserve reserved for the Di2 operation. Since then my display shows W032 error. I've read its explanation, but can I safely ride with that error or maybe is there a way to turn it off?
 
I've got Di2 on my bike, but changed the setting in the STUnlocked to Mechanical to turn off the battery preserve reserved for the Di2 operation. Since then my display shows W032 error. I've read its explanation, but can I safely ride with that error or maybe is there a way to turn it off?
You have to set it back to Di-2 transmission. You can configure a battery reserve at Light settings...
 
But will switching it back do Di2 transmission bring back the reserve for its operational? Is the battery reserve settings at Light page the only one the system use or just for ligths?
 
But will switching it back do Di2 transmission bring back the reserve for its operational? Is the battery reserve settings at Light page the only one the system use or just for ligths?
Who said you switch to manual? Who said you that Di2 requires additional reserve time?
 
Who said you switch to manual? Who said you that Di2 requires additional reserve time?

Well, 10 posts above I asked about that and you advised I can switch to manual to turn off the reserve. I've read about the reserve for Di2 in some post here or some other forum so I asked here. Nevermind.

I've got another question related to STUnlocker. I've changed my chainring to 32T and you looked in the app for an option to change the chainring size in the app. I found it finally but if I try to change there's a warning that it is not adviced to change this because the E8000 works properly without the change. Previously there's been 38T. So I left it. During my trip the computer reported several W011 errors and the range and distance readings was totally wrong. So can I change the setting to 32T in the app and get rid of the errors and get properly calculated distance/range readings on the display?
 
Well, 10 posts above I asked about that and you advised I can switch to manual to turn off the reserve. I've read about the reserve for Di2 in some post here or some other forum so I asked here. Nevermind.

I've got another question related to STUnlocker. I've changed my chainring to 32T and you looked in the app for an option to change the chainring size in the app. I found it finally but if I try to change there's a warning that it is not adviced to change this because the E8000 works properly without the change. Previously there's been 38T. So I left it. During my trip the computer reported several W011 errors and the range and distance readings was totally wrong. So can I change the setting to 32T in the app and get rid of the errors and get properly calculated distance/range readings on the display?
Yes, in most cases changing gear size is not required and results in an error.
 
Yes, in most cases changing gear size is not required and results in an error.

But I didnt change this setting. I only replaced the physical chainring on the bike and getting the errors now. So will that setting help me to make things right?
 
But I didnt change this setting. I only replaced the physical chainring on the bike and getting the errors now. So will that setting help me to make things right?
You have the tool to change changerings - try it. I have no experience with this
 
But I didnt change this setting. I only replaced the physical chainring on the bike and getting the errors now. So will that setting help me to make things right?
If you're f/w is v4.9 you will not be able to change the chainring size with Stunlocker or the Etube apps - I've been getting E010 errors running a 34t with the motor set at 38t (no idea why it was set to 38t in the first place) and even my lbs were unable to change it. The only way I've found to get things straight is using the eMax app which, for some reason, allows you to edit the motor's chainring info --- chain ring size = motor chainring size = no errors(y)(y)
 
If you're f/w is v4.9 you will not be able to change the chainring size with Stunlocker or the Etube apps - I've been getting E010 errors running a 34t with the motor set at 38t (no idea why it was set to 38t in the first place) and even my lbs were unable to change it. The only way I've found to get things straight is using the eMax app which, for some reason, allows you to edit the motor's chainring info --- chain ring size = motor chainring size = no errors(y)(y)
4.9+ does not allow to change gear settings via Bluetooth connection. It's not possible to change it using any other App via Bluetooth. It's possible to change only via PCE interface.
STUnlocker changes gear settings in the same way as ETube, eMax and other Apps. So there are no any benefits to use emax instead of STUnlocker
 
4.9+ does not allow to change gear settings via Bluetooth connection. It's not possible to change it using any other App via Bluetooth. It's possible to change only via PCE interface.
STUnlocker changes gear settings in the same way as ETube, eMax and other Apps. So there are no any benefits to use emax instead of STUnlocker
Apologies but I beg to differ regarding eMax - as I've stated, I used it to change my chainring from 38t down to 36t using the mobile app and, as a result, cleared an intermittent fault that's been bugging me for months. I'm no expert on apps or firmware I just ride my bike:cool:
 
My FW is 4.7. Today I've changed the setting to 32T as my chainring is but the computer displayed E010. So I've changed it to 34T and this time after power on/off cycle there's been no errors but still the distance and range are obviously incorrectly calculated. I think I'll switch to 34T physical chainring. It still should be better than the stock 38T and calculations.
 
My FW is 4.7. Today I've changed the setting to 32T as my chainring is but the computer displayed E010. So I've changed it to 34T and this time after power on/off cycle there's been no errors but still the distance and range are obviously incorrectly calculated. I think I'll switch to 34T physical chainring. It still should be better than the stock 38T and calculations.
Speed/distance calculations are not related with gears size. The motor uses speed sensor for that. It's not necessary to change front chainring size in the motor's settings.
 
Hnn... So what's wrong with the system? I've got standard wheels on it. Cranks are shorter however but shouldn't be the reason.
 
Hnn... So what's wrong with the system? I've got standard wheels on it. Cranks are shorter however but shouldn't be the reason.
Only wheel circumference parameter affect on speed/distance.
 
So I checked this parameter and it is 2240 mm with 0% speed correction on your app. My rear wheel is 27.5x2.6 so it's 2250 circumference which is about 0.5% difference to the app circumference, but my yesterday ride was 35.4 km on the bike computer and 33.74 on my Garmin GPS. Strava app on my phone recorded the same distance as Garmin. The difference is 4.96% between GPS and the bike. It doesn't seem to be caused by the circumference.
 
It doesn't seem to be caused by the circumference.
But it does! GPS distance and wheel distance are different things. You can spin the wheel in place or move the bike 2 meters forward / backward and see the increased distance covered. In this case, GPS distance will be 0.
Moreover, Strava and Garmin Apps optimize GPS route, usually they register 5-10m between two GPS points.

Another thing: tire size is not the constant - different tire width or different tire manufacture. So if you want correct speed on your display - find proper wheel circumference value to match your bike.
 
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5% is a huge difference and gps is not that inaccurate. I have observed different measurements against gps and the difference was never that big. I'm pretty sure that if I mounted a simple odometer using a sensor on a wheel spoke it wouldn't show the same distance as the steps computer. In my case.

And it's not only about distance. Actual speed is also different.
 
5% is a huge difference and gps is not that inaccurate. I have observed different measurements against gps and the difference was never that big. I'm pretty sure that if I mounted a simple odometer using a sensor on a wheel spoke it wouldn't show the same distance as the steps computer. In my case.

And it's not only about distance. Actual speed is also different.
You're answering your own question. Your GPS speed and distance will be accurate. Your Steps system will rely on the wheel size being set correctly. If the wheel size is entered incorrectly, the steps system can only go in the information it has, so it will tell you the wrong result.

As @vadII says, just because you're saying your tyre is X size, doesn't mean it actually is X size in real life. For example, if you mark the ground. Put your rear wheel on the mark with the tyre valve on the mark, roll the bike 10 wheel revolutions with you on the bike and then mark again. Measure the distance and divide by ten, that will give you a more accurate idea of your REAL wheel size.

Tyre pressure, rider weight, temperature will all add more variables to it on a daily basis.
 
Why do you assume that my tire size is not X in the real life? I have measured the size and the speed/distance difference is more than the circumference difference between real size and the app circumference. Speed correction is 0% in the app as well. I would understand any difference below 1%, but not that big.
 
Why do you assume that my tire size is not X in the real life? I have measured the size and the speed/distance difference is more than the circumference difference between real size and the app circumference. Speed correction is 0% in the app as well. I would understand any difference below 1%, but not that big.
Do you know that speedometer in your car does not showing correct speed? Usually it shows 10% less than a real speed.
 
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