Other JUST DROPPED: All-new Slash+ e-MTB

[ebikerider]

I would have definitely stuck with Ride Wrap if it offered the protection I expected. It did not. Maybe so for road/gravel or easy cross country style of riding. But for my style of riding, it was a waste of time & money. However, regardless of what wrap you choose, I recommend getting a pattern vs clear especially for the first time doing an install. Because bubbles invariably develop and they are most noticeable on a clear wrap. Just my 2 cents.

It’s amazing that your style of riding requires even more protection. Do you ride so much harder that the rocks hit your bike with more velocity? Or do you fall off ten times a ride?

 

[Piccirilli]

It’s amazing that your style of riding requires even more protection. Do you ride so much harder that the rocks hit your bike with more velocity? Or do you fall off ten times a ride?

I have crashes now and then. At age 67, I should be given some priviledges, right? But to highlight the weakness of RideWrap, my bike was stationary on a trail one day when it lost balance and fell over onto a rock. It cut through the Ridewrap like it was tissue paper and gouged the carbon frame. Had I installed the WilderWild wrap earlier, this damage could have been prevented or greatly minimized. I am not trying to convince anyone here what is best for you. But in my experience with both types of these wraps, the thin overpriced ones/ easy to apply, or the thick & tougher stuff, I know which is going on my bikes here on out.

 

[Piccirilli]

It's official. When your bike is worth more than than the car you drive, you know your priorities are set right.

 

[mike172]

Got a problem with My Slash+ TQ50 charging. Anyone had this? 2nd time its happened to me in about 8 months.

Battery is sat 65% and it wont charge, battery charger flashing red.
TCU shows no error codes, TQ app can connect and make changes to the bike settings.
Bike can be ridden, motor functions fine I can ride the bike for a while without error codes popping up.
Left battery disconnected from motor for 12 hrs.
Connecting the charger wakes up the TCU as expected.
Left 'charging' for 12 hrs but nothing, remains at 65%

Last time this happened I didn't notice the bike wasn't charging so rode it (got to the trails and noticed it was not fully charged) and its been fine since. So will be riding it again tonight hopefully and ill see what it does.

 

[Emailsucks98]

Got a problem with My Slash+ TQ50 charging. Anyone had this? 2nd time its happened to me in about 8 months.

Battery is sat 65% and it wont charge, battery charger flashing red.
TCU shows no error codes, TQ app can connect and make changes to the bike settings.
Bike can be ridden, motor functions fine I can ride the bike for a while without error codes popping up.
Left battery disconnected from motor for 12 hrs.
Connecting the charger wakes up the TCU as expected.
Left 'charging' for 12 hrs but nothing, remains at 65%

Last time this happened I didn't notice the bike wasn't charging so rode it (got to the trails and noticed it was ully and ill see what it does.

Got a problem with My Slash+ TQ50 charging. Anyone had this? 2nd time its happened to me in about 8 months.

Have you tried plugging the charger directly into the battery? That would eliminate the TCU, port & wiring/ connections as sources of the problem.
If that doesn't resolve it, I'd think you're looking at a battery firmware update or warranty (hopefully)

 

[mike172]

Have you tried plugging the charger directly into the battery? That would eliminate the TCU, port & wiring/ connections as sources of the problem.
If that doesn't resolve it, I'd think you're looking at a battery firmware update or warranty (hopefully)

e/ Just tried this and the charger is now flashing green thanks.

Ill have a read over the manual to check how the charger port in the frame is setup, not sure if its called the strap or something I am sure ive seen it.

 

[Mteam]

e/ Just tried this and the charger is now flashing green thanks.

Ill have a read over the manual to check how the charger port in the frame is setup, not sure if its called the strap or something I am sure ive seen it.

I had an issue with my charging port, but in my case I didn't have any issues when charging, but when running on the range extender battery the motor would occasionally cut out.

I could also reproduce the issue at will be wiggling the range extender plug at the charge port.

I ended up buying a new wiring harness which includes the charging port, and I haven't had any issues since and that was over a year ago

 

[Emailsucks98]

@mike172 glad you got it sorted!

For a while I had a Norco with a shimano motor. It would throw error codes and die.... I learned the fix was cleaning all the wiring connections with electrical cleaner, then a little bit of dialectric grease. I haven't had issues with my TQ stuff, but I still do this as maintenance on the battery connection etc.

 

[rotaryjesus]

I saw some posts regarding the weight of this bike being on the heavy side, especially comparing to bikes like the Kenevo SL. I have a 1.1 Kenevo SL and HPR50 Slash+ with both batteries (thanks @Emailsucks98 for the part numbers earlier in the thread). I decided to weigh both frames when I was building up my slash+. The weights are for S3/Medium and include the headset, but do NOT include the crankarms, chainring, or shock. They run the same shock size (though the KSL runs 62.5mm stroke instead of 65mm). Weights are (accurate to ~50g):

Kenevo SL (320wh): 7.25kg
Slash+ (580wh): 8.7kg
Slash+ (360wh): 7.95kg

So, with a similar battery the weight difference is about 0.7kg/1.5lb.

My Slash+ build came out to 41.8lb/18.9kg. I have a coil shock I have yet to throw on and I need to throw a tool in the headtube, but all said and done it should be about 43lb on the nose.

I'm running magic mary radials with gravity casing rear. I'm not running any light parts aside from the saddle, it's a pretty normal build aside from the lighter battery. If you wanted to go crazy you could probably get the bike really close to 40lb, maybe even under. That said, if you are running thin enough tires and light enough brakes to get down to 40lb you are probably severely overbiked.

 

[Bogdan_CH]

sounds good . Can you share an image or some more details regarding your build ?

 

[oettam20]

I saw some posts regarding the weight of this bike being on the heavy side, especially comparing to bikes like the Kenevo SL. I have a 1.1 Kenevo SL and HPR50 Slash+ with both batteries (thanks @Emailsucks98 for the part numbers earlier in the thread). I decided to weigh both frames when I was building up my slash+. The weights are for S3/Medium and include the headset, but do NOT include the crankarms, chainring, or shock. They run the same shock size (though the KSL runs 62.5mm stroke instead of 65mm). Weights are (accurate to ~50g):

Kenevo SL (320wh): 7.25kg
Slash+ (580wh): 8.7kg
Slash+ (360wh): 7.95kg

So, with a similar battery the weight difference is about 0.7kg/1.5lb.

My Slash+ build came out to 41.8lb/18.9kg. I have a coil shock I have yet to throw on and I need to throw a tool in the headtube, but all said and done it should be about 43lb on the nose.

I'm running magic mary radials with gravity casing rear. I'm not running any light parts aside from the saddle, it's a pretty normal build aside from the lighter battery. If you wanted to go crazy you could probably get the bike really close to 40lb, maybe even under. That said, if you are running thin enough tires and light enough brakes to get down to 40lb you are probably severely overbiked.

Great weight! Can you share the spec?

 

[DomV]

J'ai vu des messages concernant le poids relativement élevé de ce vélo, surtout comparé à des modèles comme le Kenevo SL. Je possède un Kenevo SL 1.1 et un HPR50 Slash+ avec les deux batteries (merci à @Emailsucks98 pour les références des pièces mentionnées plus haut dans la discussion). J'ai décidé de peser les deux cadres lors du montage de mon Slash+. Les poids indiqués correspondent à une taille S3/M et incluent le jeu de direction, mais pas les manivelles, le plateau ni l'amortisseur. Ils utilisent le même amortisseur (bien que le KSL ait un débattement de 62,5 mm au lieu de 65 mm). Les poids sont les suivants (à 50 g près) :

Kenevo SL (320 Wh) : 7,25 kg
Slash+ (580 Wh) : 8,7 kg
Slash+ (360 Wh) : 7,95 kg

Ainsi, avec une batterie similaire, la différence de poids est d'environ 0,7 kg/1,5 lb.

Mon Slash+ pèse 18,9 kg (41,8 lb). Il me reste un amortisseur à ressort à installer et un outil à insérer dans le tube de direction, mais au final, il devrait peser environ 19,5 kg (43 lb).

J'utilise des pneus radiaux Magic Mary avec un pneu arrière à carcasse Gravity. À part la selle, je n'ai pas installé de pièces allégées ; c'est un montage assez classique, mis à part la batterie plus légère. En cherchant l'allègement maximal, on pourrait probablement descendre le vélo à près de 18 kg, voire moins. Cela dit, si vous utilisez des pneus suffisamment fins et des freins suffisamment légers pour atteindre ce poids, votre vélo est probablement surdimensionné.

I'm very surprised about your weight with gravity tyres . Have you got carbone wheels and handlebar?

 

[rotaryjesus]

sounds good . Can you share an image or some more details regarding your build ?

I can take a picture later in the week. I'm just wrapping it up.

Bought a slash+ shimano build, primarily for the frame. I've only kept the frame, grips (new ones on the way), shifter, derailleur, chain, crankarms, chainring. Might swap the drivetrain later, I'm running a sram cassette.


Frame: SLash+
Battery: 360wh
Shock: Ohlins ttx22m/Fox Float X/Vivid (I have all 3, the weight above was with the Float x, but I plan to run the ttx22m)
Fork: Mezzer Pro
Stem: Anvl swage (but I'm switching to an i9 - tweaking reach)
Bars: One Up 50mm rise (I normally run 35mm, but I'm trying to get closer to my madonna stack/reach)
Grips: Stock bonty - but I normally ride PNW Loam - so those are going on when my set comes in.
Brakes: Lewis LH4 with the shimano 203mm rt66
Tires: Magic Mary Radial front and rear, gravity rear, trail front
Shifter: Shimano M8100
Derailleur: Shimano M8100
Cassette: Sram xg-1295 10-50t
Wheelset: One up hubs, pillar bladed spokes, alloy nipples, carbonfan rims - I've build similar wheels on all my bikes. I ride in santa cruz pretty dang hard and I've only cracked one of these rims so far (but I don't think anything would have survived what I did - and they had 1200 miles on them at that point). Total weight about 1600g for this set.
Dropper: 210mm one up
Saddle: ryet carbon - seems comfortable so far - the only intentionally 'light' part of the bike
Pedals: tatze link - pretty light, forgot about this. They were spares off a bike I sold.

 

[Bogdan_CH]

Thanks for the build spec but those are alot of light parts there Not saying there are bad, but defitenelty your build is lightweigh one Maybe it fits your terrain / weight etc but honestly for a 85 kg / 187 lbs rider it wouldn't do the cut

The Mezzer - lighest fork out there for enduro (38 , Zebs are 300+ grams)
XT - one of the lightest transmision (that cassete brings thing further)
Float shock is half of a Vivid or way more out of Coil
Trail tyres in Radial are light and not that supportive. With Carbon rims thats a big gamble.

So adding like a T type new XT / XTR electrical , Mavens , X2/Vivid. , Beefier fork and some gravity tyres alone, would add way over 1 kg if not close to two.

So a more Enduroish build is closed to 22 kg . Not bad, but not great as you can get a full power Bosch Gen 5 with a 600wh battery at those levels without going crazy.

 

[rotaryjesus]

Thanks for the build spec but those are alot of light parts there Not saying there are bad, but defitenelty your build is lightweigh one Maybe it fits your terrain / weight etc but honestly for a 85 kg / 187 lbs rider it wouldn't do the cut

The Mezzer - lighest fork out there for enduro (38 , Zebs are 300+ grams)
XT - one of the lightest transmision (that cassete brings thing further)
Float shock is half of a Vivid or way more out of Coil
Trail tyres in Radial are light and not that supportive. With Carbon rims thats a big gamble.

So adding like a T type new XT / XTR electrical , Mavens , X2/Vivid. , Beefier fork and some gravity tyres alone, would add way over 1 kg if not close to two.

So a more Enduroish build is closed to 22 kg . Not bad, but not great as you can get a full power Bosch Gen 5 with a 600wh battery at those levels without going crazy.

I'm not following your logic.

Mezzer Pro - chosen because my friends have tried them with good success, including racing enduro. I like the triple chamber forks and wanted to try this one (I have an rxf38, ext era 2.1, zeb with luftkappe on other enduro bikes I own). If it doesn't pan out, I'll just switch to one of my other forks.
XT - sram gx is 20g heavier - didn't think of this difference as being 'light' - it was one place I could 'cheap out' and not buy something else.
Float - as mentioned above, I plan to run my ttx22m, adding 1lb
Trail tires not being sufficient in radial. While I'll give you that I have not ridden them, I normally ride assegai DD or argotal DH front - both of which are 120g heavier. In rear I typically run DHRII DD or Kryptotal RE DH, which are 180g and 70g lighter than the gravity radial respectively. In other words, the 'set' weight is +/-70g.

That said, I often find I need to run a cush core or cush core xc in the rear, so that could add some weight.

The pedals and saddle are light. I suppose you could say the wheelset is as well, but the rims and spokes have been proven many time over for me. Hubs, I don't know... but they aren't particularly light (or heavy, they are pretty average).

As for comparing to full powered bikes that weigh a few kg more, I think that's a bit comparing apples and oranges. I find they ride quite differently. The full powered bikes don't really fit the niche I'm trying to fill (90% of my miles are on my enduro bikes - 10% ebike). Nothing wrong with full powered bikes, they seem to be the most popular bike segment these days. Just... not for me. I'm on the opposite end of the spectrum - hoping more manufacturers look at the Rallon RS and get some ideas.

 

[roQer]

I can take a picture later in the week. I'm just wrapping it up.

Bought a slash+ shimano build, primarily for the frame. I've only kept the frame, grips (new ones on the way), shifter, derailleur, chain, crankarms, chainring. Might swap the drivetrain later, I'm running a sram cassette.


Frame: SLash+
Battery: 360wh
Shock: Ohlins ttx22m/Fox Float X/Vivid (I have all 3, the weight above was with the Float x, but I plan to run the ttx22m)
Fork: Mezzer Pro
Stem: Anvl swage (but I'm switching to an i9 - tweaking reach)
Bars: One Up 50mm rise (I normally run 35mm, but I'm trying to get closer to my madonna stack/reach)
Grips: Stock bonty - but I normally ride PNW Loam - so those are going on when my set comes in.
Brakes: Lewis LH4 with the shimano 203mm rt66
Tires: Magic Mary Radial front and rear, gravity rear, trail front
Shifter: Shimano M8100
Derailleur: Shimano M8100
Cassette: Sram xg-1295 10-50t
Wheelset: One up hubs, pillar bladed spokes, alloy nipples, carbonfan rims - I've build similar wheels on all my bikes. I ride in santa cruz pretty dang hard and I've only cracked one of these rims so far (but I don't think anything would have survived what I did - and they had 1200 miles on them at that point). Total weight about 1600g for this set.
Dropper: 210mm one up
Saddle: ryet carbon - seems comfortable so far - the only intentionally 'light' part of the bike
Pedals: tatze link - pretty light, forgot about this. They were spares off a bike I sold.

This build is really on the lighter side. I think with a 580 Wh battery, 38 or Zeb, Transmission AXS and a sturdy wheelset it will be very hard to stay under 21-22 kg. My size L is around 21,7 kg with parts which reflect the purpose of this bike. The only compromise which I made is Magic Mary Radial Trail as front tire but it holds really well up to now.

 

[rotaryjesus]

This build is really on the lighter side. I think with a 580 Wh battery, 38 or Zeb, Transmission AXS and a sturdy wheelset it will be very hard to stay under 21-22 kg. My size L is around 21,7 kg with parts which reflect the purpose of this bike. The only compromise which I made is Magic Mary Radial Trail as front tire but it holds really well up to now.

Sure, there are some parts that are lighter than average, but I don't think many (or any?) compromise the most important part of the experience, when the bike is pointed downhill.

I can't speak to the brakes, tires, or fork - but pretty much every other part I've chosen has been proven on other enduro bikes I own. Those parts that I had not tried were recommended by friends. If they don't pan out, I'll go back to what I've found success with. If the bike rides better with a 21-22kg build, so be it.

The reason I made my original post was to provide additional information between the kenevo SL and slash+. I see them compared often and people tend to say the slash+ is needlessly heavy. The reality is it's about 700g heavier like for like, or 1.5kg heavier with a much larger battery. At least that data is out there now. What we decide to hang on our frames whether it be an analog bike, sl bike, or full power bike is going to differ person to person, and it's hard to compare full bike weights when manufactuers are doing things like throwing paper thin tires on their enduro bikes.

 

[oettam20]

On my Slash+ I wanted to try installing a 29" rear wheel. So I tried buying the lower link used to mount the shock to the frame, the one officially made for the non-electric Slash with a 29" rear wheel.
The link arrived and it works perfectly on the Slash+ as well. I was even able to keep the rear mudguard installed, with about a 10 mm clearance from it with a 29x2.40 rear wheel.

However, when I removed the original Slash+ link, I noticed that on the inside it has “27.5/29” stamped on it, as if the same link—maybe mounted in reverse—could also work with a 29" wheel.

Does anyone know more about this?

PS: according to official TREK manual/documentation, installing a 29" rear wheel is not bossible, neither with a spare part nor with the original link...

 

[DylanJM]

On my Slash+ I wanted to try installing a 29" rear wheel. So I tried buying the lower link used to mount the shock to the frame, the one officially made for the non-electric Slash with a 29" rear wheel.
The link arrived and it works perfectly on the Slash+ as well. I was even able to keep the rear mudguard installed, with about a 10 mm clearance from it with a 29x2.40 rear wheel.

However, when I removed the original Slash+ link, I noticed that on the inside it has “27.5/29” stamped on it, as if the same link—maybe mounted in reverse—could also work with a 29" wheel.

View attachment 180087

Does anyone know more about this?

PS: according to official TREK manual/documentation, installing a 29" rear wheel is not bossible, neither with a spare part nor with the original link...

View attachment 180088

I don't think it's reversable. I assume it just means for a bike with a 27.5 rear and a 29 front. A full 29er version would be stamped with 29/29.

 

[Mukkiman]

How does it ride as a complete 29er?

 

[oettam20]

How does it ride as a complete 29er?

I don't know yet... still need to try.

 

[Emailsucks98]

The link arrived and it works perfectly on the Slash+ as well. I was even able to keep the rear mudguard installed, with about a 10 mm clearance from it with a 29x2.40 rear wheel.

Did you happen to compress the suspension with the 29" wheel and shock removed? (of course, you'd have to measure to figure out where the shock would actually bottom out)

I've noticed this bike can bottom out pretty violently. Not a problem with proper shock tuning, clearance checks and gentle shake-down rides....

 

[Bogdan_CH]

I'm not following your logic.

Mezzer Pro - chosen because my friends have tried them with good success, including racing enduro. I like the triple chamber forks and wanted to try this one (I have an rxf38, ext era 2.1, zeb with luftkappe on other enduro bikes I own). If it doesn't pan out, I'll just switch to one of my other forks.
XT - sram gx is 20g heavier - didn't think of this difference as being 'light' - it was one place I could 'cheap out' and not buy something else.
Float - as mentioned above, I plan to run my ttx22m, adding 1lb
Trail tires not being sufficient in radial. While I'll give you that I have not ridden them, I normally ride assegai DD or argotal DH front - both of which are 120g heavier. In rear I typically run DHRII DD or Kryptotal RE DH, which are 180g and 70g lighter than the gravity radial respectively. In other words, the 'set' weight is +/-70g.

That said, I often find I need to run a cush core or cush core xc in the rear, so that could add some weight.

The pedals and saddle are light. I suppose you could say the wheelset is as well, but the rims and spokes have been proven many time over for me. Hubs, I don't know... but they aren't particularly light (or heavy, they are pretty average).

As for comparing to full powered bikes that weigh a few kg more, I think that's a bit comparing apples and oranges. I find they ride quite differently. The full powered bikes don't really fit the niche I'm trying to fill (90% of my miles are on my enduro bikes - 10% ebike). Nothing wrong with full powered bikes, they seem to be the most popular bike segment these days. Just... not for me. I'm on the opposite end of the spectrum - hoping more manufacturers look at the Rallon RS and get some ideas.

To make things more simple to follow , take all your parts and mount them on a Santa Cruz Bullit . You’ll be surprised if the difference between the bikes would be more than a pound .

The Slash & Slash+ are amazing enduro bikes . Can’t hide that.

is is a different tool than a full power ebike with a similar battery ? No…

 

[rotaryjesus]

To make things more simple to follow , take all your parts and mount them on a Santa Cruz Bullit . You’ll be surprised if the difference between the bikes would be more than a pound .

The Slash & Slash+ are amazing enduro bikes . Can’t hide that.

is is a different tool than a full power ebike with a similar battery ? No…

I completely agree. The bullit may be a better bike for a lot of riders too. That said... I don't believe a lighter battery option is available right now, and if you are interested in a full power I suspect that a smaller battery doesn't have the range to fit your needs. I did consider full power bikes as well, even though with my KSL most riding was in eco and trail modes - so full power would be very overkill. I don't believe the 2026 bullit allows for as quick a battery swap as the slash+ either. So, potentially comparable and similar weight, but I think it's a bit different horses for courses. The data is out there at least, so if those things matter to someone, they can make a choice.

For whatever it's worth, weight was not a major factor in my decision to give the slash a try. I was looking at heavier and lighter bikes, but factors such as geo, fit, dropper insertion depth, price, availability and other features are what drove my decision. There are probably other bikes I'd prefer given an infinite budget and time to try them all. IE: The druid and rallon RS just barely missed the mark for me.

A bike I rode quite a while, and did several 5000-6000' elevation gain days was a 41lb/18.5kg norco range (the high pivot non-ebike). I didn't sell it due to the weight. The bike I ride most often is a 38.5lb/17.5kg madonna. Not exactly light pedal bikes...

 

[Emailsucks98]

is is a different tool than a full power ebike with a similar battery ? No…

Seems semantics to argue if they're different/similar. They are similar is used similarly.

The removable/modular battery options are a big advantage for TQ bikes, but an advantage many won't use or care about.

 

[Bogdan_CH]

Seems semantics to argue if they're different/similar. They are similar is used similarly.

The removable/modular battery options are a big advantage for TQ bikes, but an advantage many won't use or care about.

Hate to give my bike as an example but Mondraker is quite a decent bike and has an ultra rapid battery swap . Can go under 21 kg with a light build and 600wh battery . There are people here on the forum that found a mod to put a 400wh battery so that’s another 1 kg down.

It’s a full 29er so maybe not for all people around .

 

[whitymon]

Without investing huge amount of money and with gravity tyres, I failed to see how you could be far from 21kg - with the stock battery of course, best build I have seen again with stock battery was 20.5kg.

What also just figure out by switching from time to time to other bike is that, yes the bike bottom out way easier than some other and I was skeptical about some comments but I do confirm that the slash is really more nose heavy as some suspected and unfortunately by a non negligible margin.

I also ride with a mate who have a KSL and you really feel the difference we use the same parts and the slash still feel way heavier, and is as a matter of fact, battery diff does not hold the overall difference.

 

[ebikerider]

Without investing huge amount of money and with gravity tyres, I failed to see how you could be far from 21kg - with the stock battery of course, best build I have seen again with stock battery was 20.5kg.

What also just figure out by switching from time to time to other bike is that, yes the bike bottom out way easier than some other and I was skeptical about some comments but I do confirm that the slash is really more nose heavy as some suspected and unfortunately by a non negligible margin.

I also ride with a mate who have a KSL and you really feel the difference we use the same parts and the slash still feel way heavier, and is as a matter of fact, battery diff does not hold the overall difference.

Regarding the bottom out comment..is this just not a setup issue? Bottoming out itself isn’t an issue but repeated bottoming is more likely to be incorrect spring rate.

 

[Emailsucks98]

Regarding the bottom out comment..is this just not a setup issue? Bottoming out itself isn’t an issue but repeated bottoming is more likely to be incorrect spring rate.

100%. The vivid air with no spacers in the linear setting is just too linear for 30% sag to work. But that's a very common starting point. Easily fixed!

 

[mike172]

Without investing huge amount of money and with gravity tyres, I failed to see how you could be far from 21kg - with the stock battery of course, best build I have seen again with stock battery was 20.5kg.

What also just figure out by switching from time to time to other bike is that, yes the bike bottom out way easier than some other and I was skeptical about some comments but I do confirm that the slash is really more nose heavy as some suspected and unfortunately by a non negligible margin.

I also ride with a mate who have a KSL and you really feel the difference we use the same parts and the slash still feel way heavier, and is as a matter of fact, battery diff does not hold the overall difference.

Are you on Zebbs (9.9)? By front heavy, do you mean the forks dive into their travel? With 1 or 2 tokens they do, they lack decent mid support. With 3 spacers in the fork you get decent mid support from the Zebbs, not quite Ohlins level, but very good and there was no discernible loss in compliance compared to 1 or 2 tokens in my opinion.

Ive driven the KSL and it is indeed lighter. For what its worth I have an Enduro, and switching between the Enduro and Slash+ is easy, compared to Switching between a Gen 3 Levo and Enduro where the weight difference was very noticeable.

I like how the battery doesn't come too close to the head tube/stem area on the slash+, its one of the reasons I bought it. it was one of my gripes with the Levo. It felt much heavier.