Just a list of Relay things

[dumpy]

Hi,

I found that the other forums i used to be at have less traffic than this one, and this one has a Relay manual which is nice. I thought I'd just compile the list of things that may be useful to Relay owners (as a new owner of that bike myself) as reference. Files attached in case things are down (Transition's site tend to be down often usually for a day or two, in my experience...)

Shock tunes

DHX on Large PNW (from myself)

2023 SERIES DHX TRUNNION 2POS-ADJ
Part number: 960-04-212
Description: 2024_23, DHX, F-S, Cr, 2pos-Adj, Trunnion, Transition, Rapido PNW, 205, 65, 450lbs/in, CMSSAL001, PRMAL001, Rezi LLB3, No Logo

Float X on GX AXS (size unknown, from 1050st@ on mtbr)

2023 Series FLOAT X 2pos-Adj - 2024_23, FLOAT X, P-Se, A, 2pos-Adj, Trunnion, Evol LV, Transition, Patrol, 205, 60, 0.7 Spacer, CMSSAL001, PRMAL001, Rezi LLB3, No Logo, Neutral Logo

Software

• RIDE60 firmware page, Toolbox software (req. to update)
• Fazua mobile app
• Current fw 009

Manuals

• Staff assembly manual (from frank_doktor@ here, thanks!)
• Relay support page
  • Transition's Decals file
  • Transition's quickstart guide
• Fazua motor assembly, motor manual

Torque settings

Frame specs


Modifications

Stronger battery door latch (from me)
Replace the weak spring by a rubber o-ring - these take much more force than any spring ever will. Tape the frame around the gasket area to improve grip. Result: door no longer moves/no noise during DH riding on fast and rocky terrain.

 

[dumpy]

If you ever wondered, the chainring-bash-guard-protector-and-thing-that-holds-the-actual-chain-ring-on-the fazua-motor-shaft-thing weight 158.8gr on my scale without bolts or chainring.

For what it's worth the lockring that goes on top is specced for 30nm reverse threading and uses a tool such as the park tool BBT (16 notch fitting - same as for the Shimano ultegra BBR60 or Deore XT MT-800 bottom brackets.

What I found though is that its hard to fully engage the threads and achieve 30 nm in practice, the risk of stripping is very high. Perhaps there is a better suited tool than the Parktool in this case. You also need to hold the pedal as you do it, so ideally you have a friend (you need to push the cup inwards, hold the pedal and torque all at the same time), or a vice that is at pedal-height perhaps.

My very bike was torqued to something like 5nm, no thread locker and would loosen up (it took me a while to receive the tool to fix it). I could not find the right manual for these, so decided to add a bit of blue thread locker and I torque the thing to about 20nm (couldn't achieve 30nm myself with the equipment i have around, but its still weight higher than .. whatever they did during assembly at the shop or at transition...).

For what it's worth changing the chainring also require removing this lockring anyway.

Side note: i also found that the counter-locking ring of the ETOR cranks (the thing that need a cassette tool) was also not torqued to spec at all on the non-drive side for me. Didn't seem to be a problem but...

 

[RudiTD]

Hi guys,
I have added some adhesive foam, similar to what is already on the battery cover/door.
Is your battery cable area bone dry after a wet ride or washing the bike?

The whole locking system (good idea on the O ring) and flimsy plastic is really not great… ie I shiver at the idea of using a garden hose on that part of the bike. (It really feels like water would 100% get in…).

Any other ideas/input apart from the O-ring instead of the spring?

 

[dumpy]

mines slightly wet. the way the battery is mounted its not a big deal unless you fully submerge the bike imo but yeah. i guess youd need a gasket, or a much better panel (or both, probably).

i assume a relay v2 will fix this one day. i pondered making my own door in carbon w/ 2 rubberized covers, so its lighter and stiffer than the original but thats a lot of work for little gain IMO. You could also use some high quality foam gasket cut to size if you really wanted to?

 

[RudiTD]

mines slightly wet. the way the battery is mounted its not a big deal unless you fully submerge the bike imo but yeah. i guess youd need a gasket, or a much better panel (or both, probably).

i assume a relay v2 will fix this one day. i pondered making my own door in carbon w/ 2 rubberized covers, so its lighter and stiffer than the original but thats a lot of work for little gain IMO. You could also use some high quality foam gasket cut to size if you really wanted to?

Hi,
I had the same ideas too!
Just a shame that Transition saved a few bucks on something that is so critical…
I hope that, as more and more bike are sold, a third party provider would make the carbon door with better rubber/foam seals.
Meanwhile… enjoy the rides!

 

[dumpy]

Update: Parktool now has the proper distance on the axle/crank tool... LRT-5 Lockring Tool — Fazua® Ride 60 (LRT-5, released today), which should really help with servicing the bike

 

[Poggs38]

I’m liking this thread - very useful. I have a similar concern with my relay. Just washed bike for first time and found battery got really quite damp. I had already steamed and reshaped door to make it a better fit/ seal. I’m interested in you taping the frame to provide a better seal. Was that just a length of electrical insulation tape? I do like the idea of oring instead of spring - I think I’ll give that a go. I have ordered a new battery cover, so I can play around with the old one and make it seal better. I was wondering about a slightly thicker foam seal instead?? I think I’ll order one of those tools you recommend.

 

[Poggs38]

Hi guys,
I have added some adhesive foam, similar to what is already on the battery cover/door.
Is your battery cable area bone dry after a wet ride or washing the bike?

The whole locking system (good idea on the O ring) and flimsy plastic is really not great… ie I shiver at the idea of using a garden hose on that part of the bike. (It really feels like water would 100% get in…).

Any other ideas/input apart from the O-ring instead of the spring?

Hi, have you got a photo of how the foam looks and also if the door now fits more proud of the frame, after fitting additional foam?

 

[Poggs38]

Hi guys,
I have added some adhesive foam, similar to what is already on the battery cover/door.
Is your battery cable area bone dry after a wet ride or washing the bike?

The whole locking system (good idea on the O ring) and flimsy plastic is really not great… ie I shiver at the idea of using a garden hose on that part of the bike. (It really feels like water would 100% get in…).

Any other ideas/input apart from the O-ring instead of the spring?

Just received this in post today to seal battery door better

 

[Poggs38]

View attachment 131876
If you ever wondered, the chainring-bash-guard-protector-and-thing-that-holds-the-actual-chain-ring-on-the fazua-motor-shaft-thing weight 158.8gr on my scale without bolts or chainring.

For what it's worth the lockring that goes on top is specced for 30nm reverse threading and uses a tool such as the park tool BBT (16 notch fitting - same as for the Shimano ultegra BBR60 or Deore XT MT-800 bottom brackets.

What I found though is that its hard to fully engage the threads and achieve 30 nm in practice, the risk of stripping is very high. Perhaps there is a better suited tool than the Parktool in this case. You also need to hold the pedal as you do it, so ideally you have a friend (you need to push the cup inwards, hold the pedal and torque all at the same time), or a vice that is at pedal-height perhaps.

My very bike was torqued to something like 5nm, no thread locker and would loosen up (it took me a while to receive the tool to fix it). I could not find the right manual for these, so decided to add a bit of blue thread locker and I torque the thing to about 20nm (couldn't achieve 30nm myself with the equipment i have around, but its still weight higher than .. whatever they did during assembly at the shop or at transition...).

For what it's worth changing the chainring also require removing this lockring anyway.

Side note: i also found that the counter-locking ring of the ETOR cranks (the thing that need a cassette tool) was also not torqued to spec at all on the non-drive side for me. Didn't seem to be a problem but...

New Fazua ride 60 specific chainring about to land. Looks way better than the supplied one, in my opinion. Of course, I will need the tool to replace it. Not available in uk at mo

 

[dumpy]

it does look nice. Ill replace it when mine dies, but yeah, would recommend the new parktool tool for this.

 

[Natch]

I haven't examined it closely -- is the stock bash ring separate from the chainring or is it integral? Would I be able to run the bash ring with this SRAM ring?

 

[Poggs38]

I haven't examined it closely -- is the stock bash ring separate from the chainring or is it integral? Would I be able to run the bash ring with this SRAM ring?

No you would not be able to. It doesn’t bother me - I’ve never run a bash ring. Would have been nice to have a chain device though.

 

[Natch]

No you would not be able to. It doesn’t bother me - I’ve never run a bash ring. Would have been nice to have a chain device though.

Thanks. This is the first bike I've had in awhile without a chain guide. We'll see how things go...

 

[dumpy]

The bash ring is a separate piece - but it takes a special chainring, so yeah, wouldn't work. With that said its also a fairly heavy thing and your mileage may vary. I did hit a few times on it so far, which is more than i normally would, not sure why, the bike is low but not that low. Either way, i'd also take the risk, most of my bikes don't have one and unless you hit really hard its fine. Plus i'd rather damage my chainring than the motor's axle...

 

[Natch]

The bash ring is a separate piece - but it takes a special chainring, so yeah, wouldn't work. With that said its also a fairly heavy thing and your mileage may vary. I did hit a few times on it so far, which is more than i normally would, not sure why, the bike is low but not that low. Either way, i'd also take the risk, most of my bikes don't have one and unless you hit really hard its fine. Plus i'd rather damage my chainring than the motor's axle...

Thanks for your input. I've only had a few rides and my bash ring already has marks on it from our rocky trails so I feel better having one on there. On my other bikes the bash guard is mounted with an ISCG mount rather than to the chainring. I wish that were possible on the Relay because mine take a beating.