Dengfu E10 Suspension/Wheel Options

"faily balanced in its handling ", no i do not say that, on contrary i find maniability amazing for a bike with 455mm of base and 1310 of empatement,

About angleset, I find strange, the people who modified an bike without testing how functioning the original geometry. When i perform modifications, generally it is to correcting a problem, not to reach a value.

Ok. That's good to hear. My reason for considering changing from 66 degree to 64.5 is because some of the trails I ride are very steep and rocky.
There is some fairly crazy trails are Derby that are good at sending people over the bars.
Although I'd still try it with both geometrys to test them out and see which one I like most. It's fairly easy to pop a Angleset in the headset
 
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I’d concur that the frame is a really stiff frame and will test your component choice, it won’t be the frame but how you pick and set up your suspension that will dictate the feel and handling.

In some ways it’s over built and too stiff, some already have raised the old school thoughts on frame flex to give feed back and suppleness but as soon as you hang suspenders on anything, the last thing you want is a bit of uncontrolled booty wobble to mix both frame and suspension movement, it makes setup almost a guess.

I ran mine in 27.5 fat mode in the winter on 2.8” tyres with great results in our mud and water filled mires and have now moved to mullet style for the faster hard paths we now have. So far I’ve done probably 2.5k kms without any issues.
 
You reason on mode "old geometry", now with 29", long reach. It is new world.

About waynmarlow return. I do not find the frame too rigid, on contrary, i found it very tolerant and easy to manage loose of grip, that contribuate at the maniabilty by easy slide control. I think same that racer, could find the frame not enough rigid for high engage

Point of vue of an old heavy rider, above than 100 kg and who have lowered his risk-taking levels
 
You reason on mode "old geometry", now with 29", long reach. It is new world.

About waynmarlow return. I do not find the frame too rigid, on contrary, i found it very tolerant and easy to manage loose of grip, that contribuate at the maniabilty by easy slide control. I think same that racer, could find the frame not enough rigid for high engage

Point of vue of an old heavy rider, above than 100 kg and who have lowered his risk-taking levels
PatDam, my comments on flex of the frame was not aimed at anyone in particular, I just find far too many comment wanting flex on a carbon frame and never realise that once you add suspenders, you want your frame as stable as possible to be able to set up the suspension.
 
PatDam, my comments on flex of the frame was not aimed at anyone in particular, I just find far too many comment wanting flex on a carbon frame and never realise that once you add suspenders, you want your frame as stable as possible to be able to set up the suspension.
No problems wayne. my opinion is not the universal truth, just my point of vue. I seem a few shifted in regards of other, but everybody have not the same expect (or may be it is my bad english who make i do not clearly understand).
 
Hi, Tunning my rear shox SAG I had to inflatte it to a very high pressure for set a 30% SAG. 270psi I'm 90kilos. Every body has to user higher than normal pressure to set the SAG??? Why this could be???
 
So probably my manometer is malfunctioning. I hope so.. I'm running a CK DB air IL
 
frame size is for shock irrelevant. You can fit same shock into S,M,L and XL size. What you need to do is order offset bushings to match
longer 216 length instead of 210=6mm iffset. Meaning you need to have at least 3mm offset per each bushing


while ordering, justmention dengfu E10 frame, total offset needed and boys will gladly advise. Also make sure, that your geometry does not goes in values you dont want to have.
 
frame size is for shock irrelevant. You can fit same shock into S,M,L and XL size. What you need to do is order offset bushings to match
longer 216 length instead of 210=6mm iffset. Meaning you need to have at least 3mm offset per each bushing


while ordering, justmention dengfu E10 frame, total offset needed and boys will gladly advise. Also make sure, that your geometry does not goes in values you dont want to have.
This is a good option if we want a cost effective alternative for a rear coil shock.
 
frame size is for shock irrelevant. You can fit same shock into S,M,L and XL size. What you need to do is order offset bushings to match
longer 216 length instead of 210=6mm iffset. Meaning you need to have at least 3mm offset per each bushing


while ordering, justmention dengfu E10 frame, total offset needed and boys will gladly advise. Also make sure, that your geometry does not goes in values you dont want to have.
Thanks a lot for your advises.
 
Anyone running a 216x63 shock with offset bushings?
If so, should material be removed from the yoke to prevent it touching the seat tube?

I will use the 17" frame. Hopefully the yoke and tolerances are identical for all sizes.
 
Anyone running a 216x63 shock with offset bushings?
If so, should material be removed from the yoke to prevent it touching the seat tube?

I will use the 17" frame. Hopefully the yoke and tolerances are identical for all sizes.
If am not wrong, based on some of the reply. Even with both bushings is offset, the maximum offset is only 5mm, therefore , removal of material off the yoke is still necessary. I stand corrected.
 
If am not wrong, based on some of the reply. Even with both bushings is offset, the maximum offset is only 5mm, therefore , removal of material off the yoke is still necessary. I stand corrected.
The bushings from Offset only have 2 mm offset using 8 mm bolt diameter at the E10 frame. 3 mm offset is only available for bushings with 6 mm bolt diameter. Be careful if You use 2 mm offset bushings on both sides. The reduced shock length of 216 - 4 = 212 mm will result in a fully compressed length of 212 - 63 = 149 mm only. The rear triangle may crash into the seattube in case of a hard impact landing. I measured it, I tested it with no air in the shock. I decided not to take the risk, used only 1 offset bushing, and reworked the yoke accordingly.
 
The bushings from Offset only have 2 mm offset using 8 mm bolt diameter at the E10 frame. 3 mm offset is only available for bushings with 6 mm bolt diameter. Be careful if You use 2 mm offset bushings on both sides. The reduced shock length of 216 - 4 = 212 mm will result in a fully compressed length of 212 - 63 = 149 mm only. The rear triangle may crash into the seattube in case of a hard impact landing. I measured it, I tested it with no air in the shock. I decided not to take the risk, used only 1 offset bushing, and reworked the yoke accordingly.

Would a coil rear shock not have this issue due to the presence of a physical spring?
 
Would a coil rear shock not have this issue due to the presence of a physical spring?
No, same situation. The coil shock with same lenght and travel will have the same fully compressed lenght. The spring is never fully compressed at end of travel, there is a rubber bumper on the shaft for bottom out.
 
The bushings from Offset only have 2 mm offset using 8 mm bolt diameter at the E10 frame. 3 mm offset is only available for bushings with 6 mm bolt diameter. Be careful if You use 2 mm offset bushings on both sides. The reduced shock length of 216 - 4 = 212 mm will result in a fully compressed length of 212 - 63 = 149 mm only. The rear triangle may crash into the seattube in case of a hard impact landing. I measured it, I tested it with no air in the shock. I decided not to take the risk, used only 1 offset bushing, and reworked the yoke accordingly.
How much material did you remove from the yoke? Any noticeable effect on its strength? Maybe some flex during pedalling?
 
I milled away appr. 2-3 mm on the upper yoke plate only. There is absolutely no effect on strength of the yoke. The whole design of the linkage is beefy and stiff, You will see once You have the frame in Your hands!
 
I milled away appr. 2-3 mm on the upper yoke plate only. There is absolutely no effect on strength of the yoke. The whole design of the linkage is beefy and stiff, You will see once You have the frame in Your hands!
Is it possible that you could take a picture so i could see how much clearance you have thank you
 
Here You are, it‘s appr. 2-3 mm.

E09770FD-DA51-437D-B9A3-7BEE27ECC16C.jpeg
 
Hi ! another one trying to mount a 216x63 shock on the frame. I've read with one offset bushing and removing about 3mm of yoke it is possible. Has anyone tried just remove about 6mm of yoke?

I also have one more question. In case I use my old bushing, I need to remove part of it also to leave it at 16mm length, but the white part of the shock should be removed too?

Hope anyone can enlighten me.

Thanks!

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I would cut (using a lathe) the black bushing down to 16.5 mm (not 16!) and keep the inner white bushing if it is not worn. Looks like there is a small groovo on each side in the white bushing for a small O-Ring. If possible, use this with a matching O-Ring to seal the inner bushing. If there is a gap remaining between the white bushing and the Yoke, use shims to fill it.
 
Hi all what spring rate would you recommend for vivid R2C 216x63.5 I am 104kg I know (fat f*****)!! ;) aggressive enduro rider .Would you take to count bike weight ?
 
I would recommend a 600 spring. I have the same shock dimensions, using a 500 spring @ 89 kg. I tried 550 as well, was ok but I prefer a more plush ride with 30+ % of SAG. Please share Your experience once You did Your first rides!
 
I would cut (using a lathe) the black bushing down to 16.5 mm (not 16!) and keep the inner white bushing if it is not worn. Looks like there is a small groovo on each side in the white bushing for a small O-Ring. If possible, use this with a matching O-Ring to seal the inner bushing. If there is a gap remaining between the white bushing and the Yoke, use shims to fill it.
Thanks for the info, I will try as you said!
 
I would recommend a 600 spring. I have the same shock dimensions, using a 500 spring @ 89 kg. I tried 550 as well, was ok but I prefer a more plush ride with 30+ % of SAG. Please share Your experience once You did Your first rides!
Hello.
What is your exact sag with a 500 spring?
The spring calculator shows that I need 500 for my weight 72kg

SPRING CALCULATOR
 
Its 19mm, at 63 stroke, 30%. If I calculate with Your bodyweight assuming a linear relation, Your spring would be at 404. This is all based on 216 shock length and 170 mm rear travel.
 
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