Cube one77 2025

Rando’s top suggestion on marking the suspension linkage/shock bolts with small blobs of paint when at the right torque is here Cube one77 2025

My record of fixing the top battery mount here Cube one77 2025 and an earlier post with pics from the other thread here Cube Hybrid EMTB 2025 looks lit!. I’d also recommend checking the 2 lower battery mount bolts and sticking a 5-10mm foam pad on the flat plastic area just below the top mount mechanism; that stops the slight play at the top of the battery when it‘s clipped in place.

With all of that done I got no creaks or knocks from the frame area, the only knocks remaining are from the front brake pads on first use after dropping into a descent (like they’re clunking back into place, having centred themselves during a ride up/flat). Not sure there’s much to do about that; must be a Shimano XT BR-M8120 brake calliper thing. New pads might have different tolerances and help, but this really is nit picking and doesn’t improve function at all.

Thanks! This is timely... After getting the bike back from the LBS for shock work, fitting new cranks, and a new stem the bike rides great.... But now I have a creak under load and a bastard of a rattle 😂

Was just about to search for all the info again.... 👍
 
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This review picks out the One 77 and one44 SLX models as best value For 2025 bikes .
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That was my initial impression when I got mine delivered Dec 2024 and it's still one of the nest value Enduro Capable EMTB even taking sale prices in to consideration
 
Nothing wrong with the XT brakes, I’ve gone and put them on my hardtail, replacing the MT5s which in turn replaced Codes which really are garbage. I think all in all they are the best all round brake for the money and work nicely with other shimano product.

I do like the Hays and they do seem quite special (they look gorgeous in both the bronze and the purple) but I’m very much an MT7 Pro HC3 or Hope Tech 4 V4 kind of guy. I’ll be consolidating brands at some point on all bikes and when I do it’ll probably all move to hays or hope.
Tech 4 V4 ,s with Surron 220mm x 3mm discs 🔥🔥🔥 Just done a week in the Alps with zero fade 👍
 
First run with the new AVS guard on and its is deformed 😅

20250824_223445.jpg 20250824_223441.jpg
 
I did the same to mine, it not the first run! 😁

That’s why I added a further, moulded, kydex guard to my bike. Which you can see in my earlier posts. Great, cheap, added protection.
 

i need some black pedals i think. Loving the bike now tho!
 

i need some black pedals i think. Loving the bike now tho!
Simply lovely, there is something about that color combo!

1756154408891.jpeg
 
Looks like my upper shock mount developed some play. When I pull the bike up there is a slight "pop" sound coming from the top shock bolt and I can feel some movement placing my finger on top of that area.
Did anyone have this happen to them? Perhaps I need to replace the bushings?
I have the SLX version
 
Spent a bit of time yesterday tightening everything as per the advice on here... Then followed up with a paint marker.

Went out today for a ride:
PXL_20250825_194722425.jpg


Was having fun until I started hearing a creak that got worse as the ride went along. Looked over my little white dots and immediately saw this:

PXL_20250825_195250769.jpg


When I got back home I added Loctite and torqued it down again.... Hopefully that's it for now.

Thanks for all the experience you guys have shared on here so far! (y):D
 
New bike day 😀
Got to say I’m very impressed it’s better than I expected. XT brakes seem better than my old Hopes, AXS is phenomenal, Newman wheels are more than good enough. The smart system even tells you your phone battery is low 😂
Not keen on the cockpit to be honest it seems a bit harsh, not sure if it’s the grips or the bars. Easily sorted either way
IMG_8762.jpeg
 
New bike day 😀
Got to say I’m very impressed it’s better than I expected. XT brakes seem better than my old Hopes, AXS is phenomenal, Newman wheels are more than good enough. The smart system even tells you your phone battery is low 😂
Not keen on the cockpit to be honest it seems a bit harsh, not sure if it’s the grips or the bars. Easily sorted either wayView attachment 166986
Enjoy I have one of those due for delivery anyday
 
Hi everyone. Does anyone know if there will be support for eshift with sram axs? Does it make sense? I'm just choosing a new transmission between sram axs and Shimano.
 
Hi everyone. Does anyone know if there will be support for eshift with sram axs? Does it make sense? I'm just choosing a new transmission between sram axs and Shimano.
From running Shimano XT cable to SRAM XO transmission and ignoring the wireless aspect I can tell you now that the transmission is stronger and more durable however the shifting is painfully slow by comparison and it just doesn’t seem as smooth. If you look after your drivetrain and swap out worn chains etc in time with preventatives maintenance in mind then I’d probably want the shimano system myself. The question however about longevity can’t yet be answered where as the transmission range is pretty much proven now so there’s that element of risk to consider too.

Cassettes and chains seem cheaper for the shimano stuff too as it’s all backward compatibility with existing stuff. The repair ability of the SRAM is pretty good too, I’ve no idea about the Shimano.

I don’t know how shift works either so if you have a confirmation on one brand over the other and it’s important to you, given the pros and the cons are pretty level, I’d go for that.
 
Hi everyone. Does anyone know if there will be support for eshift with sram axs? Does it make sense? I'm just choosing a new transmission between sram axs and Shimano.
SRAM is currently not listed as a partner on Bosch’s eshift webpage https://www.bosch-ebike.com/us/products/eshift but Shimano are. Whilst that could change in the future and SRAM are added, if you’re planning today I think you can only assume it doesn’t work with SRAM AXS products.
 
Thank you very much for the detailed answer. I would like to know more about the software part. In the fall, Bosch will release an update where our motor will work with the Shimano electronic transmission. Maybe someone knows if the same is planned with the electronic transmission from Sram? I looked at all the pros and cons and SRAM seems more reliable and accurate to me, but slower. I also really like the way SRAM looks.
 
Before I go to the effort of switching the headset cup, has anyone ridden this bike in both the steep and slack positions? Curious to hear how the ride feel compares. I’m currently running it in the steep position.
 
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has anyone ridden this bike in both the steep and slack positions?
I switched to the steep setting after a couple of weeks of ownership and have left it there. In my case I’d sized up from L to XL, so the longer reach already has me in a good position for steep stuff and the slight change in steering response going steeper was beneficial. Using the basic angle measure on my iPhone, the forks appeared to be closer to 64 degrees on the steep setting, rather than the quoted 64.4 degrees,; so the slack setting is probably really slack.
 
I switched to the steep setting after a couple of weeks of ownership and have left it there. In my case I’d sized up from L to XL, so the longer reach already has me in a good position for steep stuff and the slight change in steering response going steeper was beneficial. Using the basic angle measure on my iPhone, the forks appeared to be closer to 64 degrees on the steep setting, rather than the quoted 64.4 degrees,; so the slack setting is probably really slack.
I have also sized up, for my bike from a medium to a Large and have been wanting to try a steepened headset angle.
I am traveling and do not have tools, it sounds simple as mentioned below:


1) use an angle measurer (on phone) to make sure the cups are correctly set, most likely it is in the slack setting around 63.8.
2) take out stem and spacers. When I did it, I actually left the stem on about 4cm higher (partially off the steerer tube) loosely tightened to avoid the fork from dropping out of the frame.
3) push fork out of frame slightly, no need to fully remove, everything should loosen up. The cups have almost no friction, just rotate the top and bottom one by 180, notice the little guide dimples that ensure they are centered.
4) get everything back into the frame and tighten
5) measure angle to ensure it is the desired one, if going towards steep it should be 64.4
 
New bike with few miles and there is a click at a specific position of the crank on each revolution. I took a quick look and when loading the left pedal the forward left side motor mount bolt moves. I assume that all the mounting bolts should be tightened and that would require some tools. Do I assume that I would need some torx driver sizes and a chain ring removing tool?
 
New bike with few miles and there is a click at a specific position of the crank on each revolution. I took a quick look and when loading the left pedal the forward left side motor mount bolt moves. I assume that all the mounting bolts should be tightened and that would require some tools. Do I assume that I would need some torx driver sizes and a chain ring removing tool?
Check the rear shock mount if it's too tight it will creak under pedaling and it sounds like it's coming from the motor.
 
New bike with few miles and there is a click at a specific position of the crank on each revolution. I took a quick look and when loading the left pedal the forward left side motor mount bolt moves. I assume that all the mounting bolts should be tightened and that would require some tools. Do I assume that I would need some torx driver sizes and a chain ring removing tool?
Also check the crank bolt is not coming loose. I heard a creaking and mine crank fell off.
 
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Also check the crank bolt is not coming loose. I heard a creaking and my crank fell off.
Definitely, out of curiosity I wonder if the dealership did the bolt replacement recall, I will find out when I dig into it this week.
 
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