Are you suggesting a fettled Float X is a better shock than a fettled Float X2?
Cube one77 2025
- Thread starter Rando_12345
- Start date
Nooo, if you open up the X by adding the mods as mentioned then yes it will perform heaps and bounds better than a stock X2 without the additions. LSC adds loads of scope to how the rear end feels which you don’t get on a standard “performance” part, only the Elite and Factory.
The difference between the X and the X2 is small with the x2 feeling more sure footed and the X more playful and even then it’s trivial enough that I personally haven’t noticed all too much between them until you get in to the realms of adding LSC and tokens.
The performance with the upgrade is identical to the Performance elite which is identical to the Factory minus the Kashima coat.
Finally got my AT variant in XL this weekend (having reordered, as the L I originally ordered felt a bit too small). I’ve only managed to do a few laps at my local trails and feels good so far; definitely happy with my choice. There’s definitely a ‘sit in’ the bike feel now I’m on the XL, and it handled the steep off piste side of the hill with ease. The jumps weren’t completely squashed either. There’s definitely more tweaking of the suspension settings needed though; the Fox recommended start points are OK, but I know things can be better yet (I have borrowed a Shockwiz, so will tweak things later).
Reflecting on some of the idiosyncrasies already mentioned in this thread., the creaking from a loosening rear shock mount bolt was alive and well after 45 mins of riding; that feels like it will need some thread lock in due course. A fallen thick branch across a return trail was a good test for ground clearance. BB height measured at just over 330mm, so it is 8-10mm lower than my Sommet 290 CRX, but the One77 seemed to be a similar ‘feeling’ clearance over the log. I only ever noticed hitting cranks on some corners on climbs, but I think that’s largely just my lack of skill on an eMTB. The battery securing bolts seemed solid; so maybe someone in the factory or my LBS adjusted things before I got the bike. All in all, minor niggles only.
I’m very lucky, Hemlock is genuinely my local at only 1km from my door. I’ll keep an eye out for another One77 up there!
GDAS
Active member
that looks really nice. I think the AT in XL has a 210mm dropper, whereas my SLX in XL came with only 170, and I'd like to go longer. How are you getting on with that 210 - is the outer at your chosen position, or is that as low as it will go? Oh, and what's your front mudguard?
Raptor
Active member
I am also thinking of 'upgrading' the dropper post to a PNW Range 200mm on my large SLX so I can have the dropper all the way down when I need it. Currently I have too much of the outer base raised to fit me properly (I'm 6'1" 32 inside leg). I need to check that the base will fit all the way down first.
Yes, the Fox Factory Transfer that comes with the XL sized AT is 210mm drop. In the picture it’s not fully extended, as aesthetically the seat looks better when it’s kept roughly level with the top of the bars. The AT in a L comes with the 170mm FF Transfer, so that was a definite plus when I found I needed the larger size (although I’m very used to 170mm, as that’s what was in my Sommet 290). Is 210mm better than 170mm; of course!
It’s the Standard (rather than short) RRP Proguard V1 bolt on. I quite like the look of the V1 and didn’t see any need to pay the extra for the V2 version.
Aesthetically the bike would look better sat on flat ground but in reality it would show how slack the frame geometry is and nobody really wants to see that....
Yes, this one is a bit closer to flat and things do look way slack, even if the iPhone has otherwise distorted things in the shot; I’m fairly sure the wheels are still round
.I guess what most of us see is the bike when we ride it, so maybe this short video I’ve added to YT, from some quick laps at Hemlock today, is of use. Btw, the creaking sound riding up is my helmet’s mips layers rubbing rather than the bike - I did add some grease and thread lock (not in the same place obviously….) to the lower shock bolt, which has sorted the noise I got yesterday.
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No, that white SLX model looks good too; I was very tempted by one of them. The decider for me was that I knew I’d want to upgrade the suspension and dropper post, so when I added that together the AT version made sense.
People rave about Nukeproof yet I’ve cracked welds on two by the cranks on the Scout. Your mileage will vary with everything ultimately. So far, less issues seem to crop on on the cubes than the Nukeproof subreddits and given Cube is essentially the German equivalent in terms of popularity etc as the Uk has for Specialized, it would be safe to say they know what they’re doing for the most part and perhaps you just got unlucky as I did with the Nukes? FYI, I still have a scout, horror stories aside it’s still the best HT produced imho.
I was the same but polar opposite side of that boat myself.
Bought the SLX as I have the full Kashima parts list that could be bolted on already and if I really wanted to, I have an 230x65 DHX2 Factory and 190mm Zeb Ultimate to throw on top as well as a 180mm OneUP dropper that would fit.
With various wheel sets at my disposal too the only thing I could possibly want would be the SRAM transmission but truth be told, the XT more than holds its own at the moment so I’ve not bothered.
Regarding brakes, any bike that doesn’t have Tech4 V4s or MT7 Pros on it will see either or added if I’m riding as it’s what I’m used to.
There is one tiny area on your bike that I am jealous of though by having the SLX.. that tiny gold accent near the water bottle. It’s only small but it adds that little bit of something that Im quite partial to!
Yes, brakes are the one thing I’d be tempted to swap out, but it’s not urgent. There’s nothing wrong per se with the Shimano XT with the ice tech rotors, but they just aren’t as good as the Hayes Dominion A4 system that came with my Sommet 290 CRX; caliper casting finish aside (function over form), I’ve been very happy with the Hayes, even with the rear brake only having a 180mm rotor.
More predictable bite point, lighter touch, nicer feeling levers, and better progressive power increase. A lot of that is subjective and down to personal preferences.
Post in thread 'Maven/Dominion/V4'
Maven/Dominion/V4
A little bit of feedback from my own use not the most useful feedback on the Maven but a little a the same with plenty of use on other systems by other brands.
Raptor
Active member
Does anyone happen to know the max seatpost insertion depth of the 177 in large for a dropper? Might save me having to remove mine to measure if possible. I'd like a new dropper where the dropper is min insertion but when raised it fits better
Hi there, it’s 290mm on the medium so maybe add the seat tube length difference between M and L to give you an approximate depth?
Anyone trying different rear shocks for this bike ? Looking to upgrade but no real testing nothing i could find, want to go coil but not sure if its compatible, looking at ext storia v4, ohlins or cane creek tigon also as its more progressive but i just can use maybe any coil shock with progresive spring like sprindex?
I’ve used the Float X performance, upgraded it to the Float X performance elite with the nod to give both high and low speed compression. I’ve not got the Float X2 Factory and also have the DHX2 Factory for the bike too.
Coils fit but technically aren’t covered by warranty so be careful (DHX2) for example.
Works a treat though, absolutely love the DhX2 for some heavy stuff, keep the X2 on for 99% of the time though.
T
You’ll just need to check. The DHX2 stancion is thin and they don’t work well with a yoke. If it gives way it’ll break the frame, that’s a coil that wouldn’t be covered, the DHX however probably would be.
Rando_12345
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #300
Gutted at the damage you guys have had.
That bolt came loose on my bike 2 weeks after checking it, within the first 3months of ownership. If you have a creak, and have tightened the rear shock mount, it could be one of those bolts hidden by the seat tube.
I recommend marking all your bolts on the bike with a small paint mark to easily check that the bolts are lined up and not coming loose:
That bolt came loose on my bike 2 weeks after checking it, within the first 3months of ownership. If you have a creak, and have tightened the rear shock mount, it could be one of those bolts hidden by the seat tube.
I recommend marking all your bolts on the bike with a small paint mark to easily check that the bolts are lined up and not coming loose:
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