Cube one77 2025

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I’m unsure, between the motor and caliper, looking at where it is on the cable.
 
Hello Guys,
The Bike is quite Nice but I think i Will put a dhx coil shock.
It's really really.low in term of bottom bracket event with the 140 mm cranks I had a lot of issues
I destroyed the engine cover in plastic do you know if we can find a stronger protection ?
And I had a bad crash (I'm ok) but the Bike is damaged 😞

View attachment 159832 View attachment 159833
I also joined the crash club today, first high speed crash of the season 😁 luckily no casualties and even the bike is ok, except the derailleur hanger, new + spare ordered already.. People, wear your protective gear! Luckily I had full face helmet and upper body protection + neck brace.
 
Hi, just a quick question: motor fixing bolts: what's the required torque? And is it T35? I've just ordered Hope V4s and while waiting for the parts delivery, I can prepare tools etc 👍
Answer from Cube on this torque topic: 20Nm.

Follow up question, since the delivery has been delayed: when replacing the hose, is any dismantling required in addition to dropping the motor? Just attach new hose to the old one and push it through?
 
Answer from Cube on this torque topic: 20Nm.

Follow up question, since the delivery has been delayed: when replacing the hose, is any dismantling required in addition to dropping the motor? Just attach new hose to the old one and push it through?
i didnt drop the motor when doing my rear brake hose... i just pushed it through from the rear of the bike. The cable guide behind the battery is very thin plastic and breaks :( I need to order a new one.
 
Anyone else getting headtube/toptube area rattle?

I'm pretty sure it's a cable rattling around inside. I'm also noticing my cables are getting sucked into the frame through the headset, I've looped some tape around them so they stay in place, but it's a weird phenomenon.
 
Anyone else getting headtube/toptube area rattle?

I'm pretty sure it's a cable rattling around inside. I'm also noticing my cables are getting sucked into the frame through the headset, I've looped some tape around them so they stay in place, but it's a weird phenomenon.
Yes, noticed this today. Highly annoying so I shall be looking to see what I can do about it.
 
When you’re fixing, please take some pictures while you’re at it 👍
 
Because I changed the brakes and moved the rear hose to come out of the RH side (LH rear brake) I cut the hose to the bare minimum length and did the same to the derailleur and dropper cables too.

As a consequence they’re all very short, but do not negatively impact steering etc.

Hopefully the shortness will stop rattle because it certainly stops the cables getting sucked into the frame!
 
I tried sorting them via the battery entrance, but the lock
Think I’m just going to stuff some bubble wrap or something in the frame from the top tube cut out.
Hmm that could work, I tried to tape one of the loose wires (think it's the one from controller to motor), but hard to access that area without removing the battery locking mechanism which I'm not that keen on doing though it isn't that long/bad to do.

Stuffing some bubble wrap could be a low effort, easy to undo thing to check
 
1000066137.jpg
Done mine today, changed almost all the parts for itbut got it lowest pces becauseof that. Question: anyone know what size rear shock bushings do i need ? I want to change because removed from stock one just want to get newones for ohlins coil, just need to play with setup had first ride rear felt a bit flexing not sure if i like that, but definitely jumps better and more playfull than my old trek rail, well tomorrow proper of piste ride will put it to the proper test. So far i like it. Nonoises from battery or frame maybe because i just rebuild it :D
 
View attachment 161176Done mine today, changed almost all the parts for itbut got it lowest pces becauseof that. Question: anyone know what size rear shock bushings do i need ? I want to change because removed from stock one just want to get newones for ohlins coil, just need to play with setup had first ride rear felt a bit flexing not sure if i like that, but definitely jumps better and more playfull than my old trek rail, well tomorrow proper of piste ride will put it to the proper test. So far i like it. Nonoises from battery or frame maybe because i just rebuild it :D
Nice setup 👍

Maybe a few words about the selected components?
 
Yeah, yoke is not a friend of coil shock.

 
Anyone know where i can get a replacement cable guide whats behind the battery? I may or maynot have snapped mine when trying to sort this rattle out :( lol
 
I’ve bought one of these because I’m finding the Float X a bit out of its depth in the really gnarly stuff I like.

That’s what I have on mine. One other thing, You could just spend £30 on one of these and modify the Float X in to the factory (minus the Kashima).


Bargain upgrade to the float X if you don’t mind fiddling.
 
Nice setup 👍

Maybe a few words about the selected c

Nice setup 👍

Maybe a few words about the selected components?
Thanks, i have chamged to from Zeb ultimate 3.1, with rmp cartridge, sram maven ultimate brakes, sram x01/xx1 11speed setup because of weight also carbon wheelset just rear changet to this i had it, carbon cranks, tyres MM radial front rear ill use provably different than eddy current just heavy and not so much of roling my liking. I mainly ride of piste trails, steep technical DH tracks, jumps, fast trails etc. Bike handles good everything apart maybe not having momentum as 29er had i bit missing that but maybe because of coil setup, so thinking maybe to go and try air shock maybe like vivid ultimate...
 
That’s what I have on mine. One other thing, You could just spend £30 on one of these and modify the Float X in to the factory (minus the Kashima).


Bargain upgrade to the float X if you don’t mind fiddling.
I’ve already done that upgrade 😁
 
Is there going to be much improvement with the factory shock?
It allows for both high speed and low speed compression as you would get with the factory shock. If you are willing to then fiddle and perhaps (depending on your weight) add volume spacers you can make the shock perform drastically different to how it comes as stock and depending on your riding style have it perform better than the X2 that’s been mentioned as an upgrade.
 
It allows for both high speed and low speed compression as you would get with the factory shock. If you are willing to then fiddle and perhaps (depending on your weight) add volume spacers you can make the shock perform drastically different to how it comes as stock and depending on your riding style have it perform better than the X2 that’s been mentioned as an upgrade.
Surely there must be more in the factory shock to justify such a bit cost difference apart from the coating (which I'm not sure i'd see any benefit from apart from bling?) ?
 
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