Cube one77 2025

You’ll also need a different headset cap, or a separate ring, for the cable to terminate in, it has a rubber bung to keep it water tight when the light isn’t fitted. There is one eBay as an example
Here
I have all the parts I took off my ONE77. If you’re in the UK you can have them for the cost of the postage
 
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You’ll also need a different headset cap, or a separate ring, for the cable to terminate in, it has a rubber bung to keep it water tight when the light isn’t fitted. There is one eBay as an example
Here
I have all the parts I took off my ONE77. If you’re in the UK you can have them for the cost of the postage
Thanks but unfortunately im not in the UK
 
From what I've read somewhere, the basic version of the One 77 Race doesn't have a cable installed to connect the light. I have the Race version myself. You need to buy a cable and connect it to the engine, or perhaps a cable splitter near the display will work. You'll probably need to contact a Bosch service technician to enable the light option in the system. This can be done remotely. I've seen people on the forum who install US software, and they can certainly do it for a small fee. If you contact a Bosch service technician, they'll probably tell you which cable to buy.

P.S. When you connect this lamp, please share the information on how to connect it because I am also thinking about buying the lamp and the Kiox 400C display
I finally got this working. so what needs to be done.
Buy the X-xonnect BSE3 cable that you plug from the blue port on the motor to the front light.
after that you need to make "someone" or dealer change this in the Bosch diagnostic tool
1770024390146.png

This is crucial previously i only had the lightning settings enabled.
after all that my light wouldn't turn on i scratched my head almost giving up and asked chatgpt what the fuck was going on than i had to hold the + for 1-2 seconds on the mini remote and the light came up :LOL:

Amazing light and much brighter than my previous battery one i had.
 
Ridiculous that a Bosch dealer has to activate the lighting port. 1 minute change including connecting to the bike.
Fully agree, maybe we should set up a pressure group to try and get Bosch to change this so lighting and power ports (LPP & HPP) can be activated over the Flow app.
 
I'm on the 2026 One44 and the other day when I removed the fork the bottom headset cup almost fell out! Aren't these supposed to be a press fit? There was also a ton of grease between the cup and the frame. It also should be the angle adjust headset.
 
I'm on the 2026 One44 and the other day when I removed the fork the bottom headset cup almost fell out! Aren't these supposed to be a press fit? There was also a ton of grease between the cup and the frame. It also should be the angle adjust headset.
Don't you have to reverse the bottom cup for the angle adjust? I assume that's why is comes out easy.
 
Probably, I'm finding conflicting information and in general the internet says the cups shouldn't be easily moved or removed, definitely not falling out on their own. Chatgpt says that as well, that's why I'm asking here specifically.
 
Probably, I'm finding conflicting information and in general the internet says the cups shouldn't be easily moved or removed, definitely not falling out on their own. Chatgpt says that as well, that's why I'm asking here specifically.
Have you checked the manual?
 
I wouldn’t expect them to fall out but as long as there isn’t any free play they should be fine. If in doubt go back to where you bought it and tell them, that way at least it’s on record if there is a problem later
To adjust the angle you need to turn both cups 180°. The details are elsewhere in this thread on on the Acros website
 
Probably, I'm finding conflicting information and in general the internet says the cups shouldn't be easily moved or removed, definitely not falling out on their own. Chatgpt says that as well, that's why I'm asking here specifically.
As long as there is a bit of an interference fit you should be good. It there is any play in the fit here is an option...

LOCTITE® 660​

High-strength, large gap-filling for bonding cylindrical parts

A 1-part, very high viscosity, high-strength retaining compound is ideal for use on badly worn seats, keys, splines, bearings or tapers without re-machining. Also suitable for retaining shims.
 

Looks normal to me that they should pop out easy.
When you follow that thread, the guy actually says the markings on the cups need to be facing the same direction and not opposing, as is written even in this thread.

The manual is very bare bones and not helpful.
On my other bike (alu frame though) I had to knock out the cups with a hammer, so it's a bit stressful when these cups just wiggle out by hand lol.
 
When you follow that thread, the guy actually says the markings on the cups need to be facing the same direction and not opposing, as is written even in this thread.

The manual is very bare bones and not helpful.
On my other bike (alu frame though) I had to knock out the cups with a hammer, so it's a bit stressful when these cups just wiggle out by hand lol.
I mean once you tighten down the the top cap and stem bolts it's not going anywhere. I wouldn't worry unless you can't get rid of any bearing play.
 
Have you asked @Greg Watts ?
When I change mine I’ll either fit another SRAM or a Hope one
Interested to see what other opinions are though
 
Right, @DylanJM pointed me his way, which I suppose means my database of chainring recommendations is somewhat lacking. For your One77, you've got a few solid paths.

SRAM's own chainrings are available in 3 different offsets: 6mm offset for 49mm chainline, 3mm offset for 52mm chainline, and 0mm offset for 55mm chainline, though they're pricey as you suspect.

Wolf Tooth direct mount chainrings replace your existing spider and chainring with one clean looking, lightweight, and stiff piece of machined billet and will replace your existing chainring and spider or replace the direct mount ring on SRAM cranksets including the DUB cranks. Their Drop-Stop B profile is designed for modern chains and should sort any retention issues.

Hope make excellent chainrings—their narrow-wide profiles are top quality and they're a British company making proper kit. Can't give you exact compatibility without knowing your specific crank model, but Hope generally covers the main SRAM mounting patterns.

What's your current chainring size? And how knackered is "knackered"—worn teeth or damaged beyond repair?
 
Right, @DylanJM pointed me his way, which I suppose means my database of chainring recommendations is somewhat lacking. For your One77, you've got a few solid paths.

SRAM's own chainrings are available in 3 different offsets: 6mm offset for 49mm chainline, 3mm offset for 52mm chainline, and 0mm offset for 55mm chainline, though they're pricey as you suspect.

Wolf Tooth direct mount chainrings replace your existing spider and chainring with one clean looking, lightweight, and stiff piece of machined billet and will replace your existing chainring and spider or replace the direct mount ring on SRAM cranksets including the DUB cranks. Their Drop-Stop B profile is designed for modern chains and should sort any retention issues.

Hope make excellent chainrings—their narrow-wide profiles are top quality and they're a British company making proper kit. Can't give you exact compatibility without knowing your specific crank model, but Hope generally covers the main SRAM mounting patterns.

What's your current chainring size? And how knackered is "knackered"—worn teeth or damaged beyond repair?
The one77 SLX uses Shimano 12 speed not Sram and the chainring is a 36T - likely 53mm chainline. Needs to be a direct mount not spidered..
 
Right, @Raptor—got me there. Brain clearly defaulted to SRAM when I heard "chainring replacement" and completely ignored the obvious "Cube One77 SLX" bit.

Shimano 12-speed it is then. For direct mount 36T replacement on your One77, you're looking at the Shimano CRE80-12-B—that's the proper Shimano part for 12-speed drivetrains. Wolf Tooth also do excellent direct mount options for Shimano, and their Drop-Stop profiles work brilliantly for chain retention.
Hope make quality direct mount rings too if you want to support British manufacturing—they cover most Shimano mounting patterns and their narrow-wide tooth profiles are spot on.

53mm chainline sounds right for the SLX spec. What's the damage to your current ring—worn teeth or properly mangled?
 
Hi everyone, I want to install the American firmware on my Cube. I found someone who can do it. Has anyone done this before? Are there any issues after installing the American firmware?
 
But in Europe it isn’t. Anyway, somewhere else in this forum a guy called Rudie or something is advertising a service, increasing the speed limit to 32km/h.
 
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