Crestline RS 181.2 thread – builds, reviews, technical info

No.53 Checking in after a slow start aquiring the bike and a Battery to go in it. Just done 3 days riding with nearly 4000m up in 76km........

Have an Ohlins installed so looking to sell the unused Fox DHX2 if anyone is interested.

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TRP 223 2.3 Rotor with hope V4.......its very Binary here. Steep up and steep down......

Too early to report on the coil. For now I like it.....but its for sure not as crazy plush as my Pole Sonni on the steep offpiste.

Hoping Troydon has my name down for a 200mm rear conversion (hint hint Troyden)
 
Question for those who are running a SRAM AXS XO Eagle Transmission Rear Derailleur, can you verify number of chain links you're using?

SRAM calculator is tell me 118 links for an RH3 frame with a 36t Chainring.
 
My AXS RD keeps on moving forward, needing readjustment. Only way to keep it mostly put is torquing like crazy...

Those you use a SIM card: does it only work when the bike is powered on?
Are you torquing it to 35 Nm? If not, it’ll move exactly like you’re describing.

There isn’t a ton of information out there on the SIM card. Honestly, I still find some of it confusing. I originally thought the SIM would let you adjust power levels and bike settings remotely when you’re away from the bike, but that doesn’t seem to be the case.

If you’re near the bike, you can power it on through the app, which is convenient. What surprised me was how much data it uses. I’d recommend disabling the security features when driving to and from the trails, especially on longer trips, otherwise it’ll burn through data.
1st time calculator determined 118 which is why I reached out to this forum.

What size frame are you running? Using stock chainstay length?
RH3 MX 445 stays — 120 links and works like butter


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What cranks are yall finding to look good work well and come in 155mm?

My 5 dev don’t fit. They have sent me 2 pair, and new bolts but something with the motor spline and the female spline on their cranks don’t mesh. I think their tolerance is too tight. I can’t even get the bolt threads to start it’s so tight.

They are refunding me so no big deal, but this has been a 3 week process.

I need cranks asap.

I like the Arkoza but they can’t guarantee that they fit the M2S. Also a tad pricy for CNC AL.

Forx?

Hope?

EeWings aren’t made anymore nor are they available in 155mm.

Any help is appreciated.
 
What cranks are yall finding to look good work well and come in 155mm?

My 5 dev don’t fit. They have sent me 2 pair, and new bolts but something with the motor spline and the female spline on their cranks don’t mesh. I think their tolerance is too tight. I can’t even get the bolt threads to start it’s so tight.

They are refunding me so no big deal, but this has been a 3 week process.

I need cranks asap.

I like the Arkoza but they can’t guarantee that they fit the M2S. Also a tad pricy for CNC AL.

Forx?

Hope?

EeWings aren’t made anymore nor are they available in 155mm.

Any help is appreciated.
SRAM GX
 
What cranks are yall finding to look good work well and come in 155mm?

My 5 dev don’t fit. They have sent me 2 pair, and new bolts but something with the motor spline and the female spline on their cranks don’t mesh. I think their tolerance is too tight. I can’t even get the bolt threads to start it’s so tight.

They are refunding me so no big deal, but this has been a 3 week process.

I need cranks asap.

I like the Arkoza but they can’t guarantee that they fit the M2S. Also a tad pricy for CNC AL.

Forx?

Hope?

EeWings aren’t made anymore nor are they available in 155mm.

Any help is appreciated.
I use SRAM XO cranks which are compatible with Avinox motor (Model FC-X0-PA-D1 are explicitly compatible with the DJI Avinox M2S and M1 motor) and Ethirteen Helix Race e*spec Alloy Cranks. The e13's come in a few colors.
 
Using E13 155mm as well here, they look nice and are lighter than the previous generation. Only thing worth noting is the seal they come with doesn't fit/seal after you tighten the cranks, so I removed it and re-installed without. Also the boots seem ill fitting, they're loose and feel like they'd be rattle monsters, so I removed those as well.
 
ethirteen helix race 155 avinox... looks like they are sold out.

 
I have the silver NSB Talon emtb cranks sitting here waiting for the Forged frame to arrive. Not the lightest but strong and oh so sexy. 155mm is sold out. I picked up the 160mm.
 
😂 I would like to get some action shots, but I don’t happen to have a mobile photographer to come along to get the good action shots on my rides. I’m usually with a group and we only stop to regroup or when the ride is over. I do have a POV camera, but I’ve been too lazy to bother with it for awhile. I do need to put it on to get some vids of the new shred machine. It rips!
That’s what I was thinking. When I ride we don’t set up a camera shoot. We’re too busy riding. So, you’ll get PoV; or still shots of bikes leaning against things. Actually, it would be cool to get action shots, but we’re not interrupting the ride to capture them.
 
My AXS RD keeps on moving forward, needing readjustment. Only way to keep it mostly put is torquing like crazy... so much so that there is no way I could remove the wheel trailside with a small multitool.
This confuses me. The RD isn’t held onto the frame with the rear axle. They’re separate. You could weld the RD bolt on and it wouldn’t prevent you from removing the wheel.
 
What cranks are yall finding to look good work well and come in 155mm?

My 5 dev don’t fit. They have sent me 2 pair, and new bolts but something with the motor spline and the female spline on their cranks don’t mesh. I think their tolerance is too tight. I can’t even get the bolt threads to start it’s so tight.

They are refunding me so no big deal, but this has been a 3 week process.

I need cranks asap.

I like the Arkoza but they can’t guarantee that they fit the M2S. Also a tad pricy for CNC AL.

Forx?

Hope?

EeWings aren’t made anymore nor are they available in 155mm.

Any help is appreciated.
I’ve got Hope 155’s on my M2s. You are indestructible 👌
 
What cranks are yall finding to look good work well and come in 155mm?

My 5 dev don’t fit. They have sent me 2 pair, and new bolts but something with the motor spline and the female spline on their cranks don’t mesh. I think their tolerance is too tight. I can’t even get the bolt threads to start it’s so tight.

They are refunding me so no big deal, but this has been a 3 week process.

I need cranks asap.

I like the Arkoza but they can’t guarantee that they fit the M2S. Also a tad pricy for CNC AL.

Forx?

Hope?

EeWings aren’t made anymore nor are they available in 155mm.

Any help is appreciated.
Eagle 90. Cheap, work fine, not super heavy, and only have a small logo so they blend in with all your other parts, even if you don't have a SRAM drivetrain.
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Easier to swap out. I have managed to get 2 x 700 batteries, and it takes under 5 mins, and less fiddly (2 bash plate screws. 2 battery screws under downtube.
Which way did you route the cables ?
I’ve got wireless, so only the rear brake and control wire to route. Which I’m thinking of going through the top tube , with both. So I can hit swap the battery. Which is needed for big days in the Lake District
 
Yup, same reasons I got the eagle 90 155mm cranks.
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention they do 150mm, which few brands do. That was the main reason I got them. I might even go down to 140 or 145 if I can find some cheap-ish cranks in that length without a crazy Q factor. (I'm using a CYC X1 Pro motor, which is pretty wide already.)
 
Sram Power Cable not supplying power to derailleur when connected and bike is powered on. On the sram cable side one of the prongs looks off compared to the other one. Looks skinnier or pushed dow. Thought I’d ask here in case I’m missing something simple or just have a damaged cable.
 
This confuses me. The RD isn’t held onto the frame with the rear axle. They’re separate. You could weld the RD bolt on and it wouldn’t prevent you from removing the wheel.
The RD moves freely until the axle is tightened, and you need to set it at a key tension then. To keep it from moving, one the Crestline I need to tighten the axle so much that the rear wheel cannot be removed with a multitool.
 
The RD moves freely until the axle is tightened, and you need to set it at a key tension then. To keep it from moving, one the Crestline I need to tighten the axle so much that the rear wheel cannot be removed with a multitool.
Oh no man you messing up. Follow the sram video for install exactly. You tighten axle then back it off a full turn. You then pull the derailleur and torque that FIRST to 35nm or something like that. Then torque axle to like 11ish nm
 
How are people dealing with the short dropper length? Looks like I'd only be able to get 150mm on the RH-2, or 160mm if I get a really thin, uncomfortable saddle. And I have wide 'sit bones' so I need a 16cm saddle, which contacts my legs on steeps and corners unless I can get it really low. It's close to the perfect bike (at least on paper) apart from the dropper issue and short-ish reach. Or do you not find it's a problem when riding? I mostly do bike park and off-piste enduro/DH/jump tracks, so I like to get the saddle out of the way.
 
How are people dealing with the short dropper length? Looks like I'd only be able to get 150mm on the RH-2, or 160mm if I get a really thin, uncomfortable saddle. And I have wide 'sit bones' so I need a 16cm saddle, which contacts my legs on steeps and corners unless I can get it really low. It's close to the perfect bike (at least on paper) apart from the dropper issue and short-ish reach. Or do you not find it's a problem when riding? I mostly do bike park and off-piste enduro/DH/jump tracks, so I like to get the saddle out of the way.
That's the one legitimate knock against the Crestie. I have an RH-3 and can fit a SRAM AXS 170mm all the way slammed.

Not sure if you have tried a One Up Or Wolftooth Resolve (both have the lowest stack heights) and combine with an SQLAB saddle (some models have low stack height as well).

Running the shortest cranks you feel comfortable with will assist as well.
 
How are people dealing with the short dropper length? Looks like I'd only be able to get 150mm on the RH-2, or 160mm if I get a really thin, uncomfortable saddle. And I have wide 'sit bones' so I need a 16cm saddle, which contacts my legs on steeps and corners unless I can get it really low. It's close to the perfect bike (at least on paper) apart from the dropper issue and short-ish reach. Or do you not find it's a problem when riding? I mostly do bike park and off-piste enduro/DH/jump tracks, so I like to get the saddle out of the way.
I have an RH2 with a V3 180 One-up and an SQ Lab saddle. Works for me. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
That's the one legitimate knock against the Crestie. I have an RH-3 and can fit a SRAM AXS 170mm all the way slammed.

Not sure if you have tried a One Up Or Wolftooth Resolve (both have the lowest stack heights) and combine with an SQLAB saddle (some models have low stack height as well).

Running the shortest cranks you feel comfortable with will assist as well.
I've never ridden a Crestie but I am basing my calculations on a OneUp V3 and SQLab saddles. I have 150mm cranks and the top of the saddle should be about 700mm from the BB. I do like a thick saddle (currently the 602 Active touring saddle) but even a thinner one like the 611 only gains me about 10mm of drop. My medium Geometron G1, with 440 seat tube, gives me 180 drop, and I find that's not enough. So I guess the Crestie is out of the question?
 
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