Crestline RS 181.2 thread – builds, reviews, technical info

^^ I noticed my ridewrap has that gaping hole right around the battery mount too. What a terrible design if this is the case, I thought maybe the installer missed something. (n)

Guess they assume everyone received the super cool shuttle guard, which is out of stock on the Crestline site:

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🤷‍♂️

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^^ I noticed my ridewrap has that gaping hole right around the battery mount too. What a terrible design if this is the case, I thought maybe the installer missed something. (n)

Guess they assume everyone received the super cool shuttle guard, which is out of stock on the Crestline site:

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🤷‍♂️

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When ridewrap developed their wrap, they had a shuttle guard. If you reach out to them, they'll send you a replacement free of charge without the cut out.

Do you have a frame plug for that hole? I know the 181.1 came with plugs but it seems like the 181.2 did not receive plugs.
 
Everything means you updated your firmware as well?

What about raising the torque/watts limits to the max per the mode you are in while attempting to boost?

..Thinking maybe something to do with local boost enhancement which I dont fully understand just yet to be honest.
Yep. Firmware updated. Tried it turning it on from every other mode
 
When ridewrap developed their wrap, they had a shuttle guard. If you reach out to them, they'll send you a replacement free of charge without the cut out.

Do you have a frame plug for that hole? I know the 181.1 came with plugs but it seems like the 181.2 did not receive plugs.
Makes sense, wonder if they will just send the center part to fill in the hole for the missing shuttle guard area. I will reach out, thanks for the tip!

The photo is not mine, but a screw goes into the hole for the 600wh battery on my RH2. :cool:
 
Has to be a set up issue ,surely,keep us posted

I went back though all the settings and everything checks out. Tried the button again just cruising around on the road, no bueno. I changed turbo mode settings to max everything 1300w/130nm max assist, there's tons of power and all seems normal. As soon as boost is activated the power cuts and it feels like the motor is fighting me on the pedals. This happens regardless of the mode I started in and lasts the duration the timer. I also tried the high rpm hypothesis, and mashing as hard as I could. Everything seems normal other than the boost mode. It's not a huge deal for me it's not something I'd be using often anyway. I'm sure it's just a software bug they need to patch up, I will look into opening a ticket with Avinox.
 
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OMG! This bike is so fucking fast! My old bike was a gen 4 Bosch CX Race, which I thought was fast. But it pales in comparison to the Plaid! And mine is 46.5lbs with the 800w battery! I just did a quick rip up and down the street. I’ll take it on its maiden voyage tomorrow to get the shock dialed in.
 
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OMG! This bike is so fucking fast! My old bike was a gen 4 Bosch CX Race, which I thought was fast. But it pales in comparison to the Plaid! And mine is 46.5lbs with the 800w battery!
Great looking bike. Are you running Liners under those EXO casing tires ? I run EXO casing, but with Tannus Armour linings and TPU tubes. I have never punctured with this setup. Never dented a rim, even with 20psi pressure. It really strengthens the sidewalls, and you can damage the sidewalls and still get home.

I'm currently riding with a very small tear in my rear sidewall. You can just barely see the red of the liner through it.
 
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OMG! This bike is so fucking fast! My old bike was a gen 4 Bosch CX Race, which I thought was fast. But it pales in comparison to the Plaid! And mine is 46.5lbs with the 800w battery! I just did a quick rip up and down the street. I’ll take it on its maiden voyage tomorrow to get the shock dialed in.
Wow the weight ! And the saddle and stem. Nice build. U mind sharing the build sheet?
 
Great looking bike. Are you running Liners under those EXO casing tires ? I run EXO casing, but with Tannus Armour linings and TPU tubes. I have never punctured with this setup. Never dented a rim, even with 20psi pressure. It really strengthens the sidewalls, and you can damage the sidewalls and still get home.

I'm currently riding with a very small tear in my rear sidewall. You can just barely see the red of the liner through it.
I’ve been running this setup for years without any issues. I have 40i rims and 25psi in the rear and 20 up front. With 2.8’s on those rims I don’t get flats or any squirming in high speed turns. Maybe I’m just lucky, but I’ve always been able to get away with lighter weight tires and wheels. I guess I’ve always been pretty smooth with my line choices and light on the pedals, because like I said, I run blacks and double blacks, chunky, drops jumps etc in So Cal and I haven’t had any issues with the same setup on my other eeb. And oh BTW, I just slapped a rear fender on it to keep crap out of the linkage and motor. The white stuff on the chainring is chain wax from a freshly waxed new chain.
🤘🏻😎

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Wow the weight ! And the saddle and stem. Nice build. U mind sharing the build sheet?
Sure thing bro! It’s an RH2 with 450mm dropouts, 800w battery, SRAM 11SP XX1, 10-42 cassette, derailleur and shifter, 160mm Cane Creek e-ewings 3d printed Ti cranks with Ti Speed Play Frog pedals, 180 mm One Up dropper, SQ Labs 612R carbon saddle, Rulezman 15mm stem, Renthal FatBar Lite carbon bar, Hope brakes, Fox 38 fork with MRP Lift V2 damper and Noken air cap with MRP 10mm crown race, (to raise the front so geo remains the same as a mullet) and Float X2 shock. Wheels are LightBikes 40i carbon rims, Berd spokes on Tune hubs with 27.5 x 2.8 DHRII’s front and rear. Lastly Ti and alloy bolts throughout. P.S. I also have a 34t Garbaruk chainring on the way. I’ll hopefully have that by next week.
 
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I’ve been looking all over for the markings and haven’t found anything yet. Can you be more specific-if you remember the spot where they are printed on?
You have to unscrew one of the dropouts or the brake bracket. The numbers are printed on each piece but facing the frame.
 
I’ve been running this setup for years without any issues. I have 40i rims and 25psi in the rear and 20 up front. With 2.8’s on those rims I don’t get flats or any squirming in high speed turns. Maybe I’m just lucky, but I’ve always been able to get away with lighter weight tires and wheels. I guess I’ve always been pretty smooth with my line choices and light on the pedals, because like I said, I run blacks and double blacks, chunky, drops jumps etc in So Cal and I haven’t had any issues with the same setup on my other eeb. And oh BTW, I just slapped a rear fender on it to keep crap out of the linkage and motor. The white stuff on the chainring is chain wax from a freshly waxed new chain.
🤘🏻😎

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Now that’s a stacked up cockpit
 
What fender is that? How close are the 2.8 tires to the fender? I wasn't sure if I could run 2.6 (have a few extra e-wilds), so good to see that the newer design has a bit more room than the older rear triangles.
 
What fender is that? How close are the 2.8 tires to the fender? I wasn't sure if I could run 2.6 (have a few extra e-wilds), so good to see that the newer design has a bit more room than the older rear triangles.
It’s a Mud Hugger fender and there’s tons of clearance. I also have 450 dropouts which gives more clearance as the wheel goes farther back.
 
Looks easy peasy with the Avinox SS on centerlock. Have you run Vespers on an eeb before? Any issues? Nobl and Onyx push for classics, but I havent had any issues with my vespers.

Here are my wheels impatiently waiting for a frame to strap up to lol. Wonder if they will be white for more than the NBD photos 🤣
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Are those the heavier duty spokes? Just wondering if above can comment on the feel.
 
I’ve read 1500W power output is only possible with the new 700Wh battery and new removable 600/800 batteries (Boost mode only). Is the 150 Nm max torque also only possible with new batteries? When using the original 600 or 800 battery, is the max torque limited to 130 Nm?

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I’ve read 1500W power output is only possible with the new 700Wh battery and new removable 600/800 batteries (Boost mode only). Is the 150 Nm max torque also only possible with new batteries? When using the original 600 or 800 battery, is the max torque limited to 130 Nm?

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I think it will not go full boost from low power setting maybe,could cause wheelspin and loss of control
 
The opening below the linkage. Idk, its probably fine. It may actually be cut out the way it is so the linkage has room to move. Not sure.

Either way, the bike is effn awesome! We are getting acquainted at Jarrods Place….


Hell yeah 💪
 
The opening below the linkage. Idk, its probably fine. It may actually be cut out the way it is so the linkage has room to move. Not sure.

Either way, the bike is effn awesome! We are getting acquainted at Jarrods Place….


My god you are flying. This makes me feel like I should just send my bike back and get a pickleball paddle. 😅
 
It’s an RH2 with 450mm dropouts [...] Wheels are LightBikes 40i carbon rims, Berd spokes on Tune hubs with 27.5 x 2.8 DHRII’s front and rear.
So I presume there are no clearance issues with tire clearance or any rubbing on the chainstays, like people were reporting on the previous version with bigger tires?

Could you post a photo showing how much space you have with that setup?

I was planning to run 2.6 Schwalbe Big Betty, but I’ve been told those might rub the chainstays under flex, so I’m trying to get a realistic idea of the actual clearance.
 
Just to be clear, the only batteries that fit this frame are original fs600 and 800 along with the new unattainable 700, correct? I received a 600 but after two rides I definitely need larger, just want to make sure I’m sourcing the correct version and best version. Thanks
 
Just to be clear, the only batteries that fit this frame are original fs600 and 800 along with the new unattainable 700, correct? I received a 600 but after two rides I definitely need larger, just want to make sure I’m sourcing the correct version and best version. Thanks
Correct. Original 600, 800 and new 700 battery fit inside 181.1 and 181.2.
 
When ridewrap developed their wrap, they had a shuttle guard. If you reach out to them, they'll send you a replacement free of charge without the cut out.

Do you have a frame plug for that hole? I know the 181.1 came with plugs but it seems like the 181.2 did not receive plugs.
I didn't notice a frame plug. Maybe it's in the box of small parts but I don't recall seeing it. Do you have a photo by any chance?
 
So I presume there are no clearance issues with tire clearance or any rubbing on the chainstays, like people were reporting on the previous version with bigger tires?

Could you post a photo showing how much space you have with that setup?

I was planning to run 2.6 Schwalbe Big Betty, but I’ve been told those might rub the chainstays under flex, so I’m trying to get a realistic idea of the actual clearance.
There is plenty of clearance all the way around. Zero issues with my 2.8’s so you should be fine with any 2.6. Just don’t run narrow rims or flexy wheels. I have a fender on now so it’s hard to see, but there’s more than a 1/2” at the closest spots. 🍻
 
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