Crestline RS 181.2 thread – builds, reviews, technical info

Candid said:
Mud wise, interested to see feedback from 181.1 owners to see if it is a real issue?
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Someone in the crestline fb posted a photo of a ton of mud jammed up in there.

It’s just a weird open window. I wonder what the purpose is. Go check out yeti thread and see how much mud gets built up in their motor area. I also just don’t want to get it wet if I don’t have to. I wash my bikes often (I know some of you don’t but mine get messy.
 
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Singletrackmind said:
You sound super excited! You're gonna love that bike and the envy of your riding buddies 🤩

I was fortunate to land a Speed Shop Team Edition Complete bike with the Raw finish. Scheduled to arrive sometime in June.

Please post more pics as you complete your build.
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I like to "take my time" with a new build bonding with new components and unleashing their potential with a turn of the wrench! But things are underway of course..

Step 1 - Got the rear brake installed loosely to "root the cable" per the build video. I pulled my 600 battery out and used the left side routing tube built into the frame as T suggested is the way for RH2's, use the 2 guide tubes.

Slipped right through with some gentle wiggles and twists when needed.

20260417_094008.webp

Note that rear triangle glistening in this shot @Singletrackmind , just for you pardner.

The raw stuff shows up as well, raw looking and almost pre-scratched up appearing so you don't got to worry about being rough with this girl in my mind.

20260417_094332.webp


Now just wondering where the heck will I route the dropper post cable for the next step?!

There are 2 guide tubes, one comes with the display unit wire pre-installed. One for the rear brake, but what about that dropper cable?

Anyone with an RH2 and a 600 or 800 battery try routing a 3rd cable yet? Havent tried it to be honest, just looks to be super tight and my brain is already foreseeing a potential obstacle. T made it look easy , but the 700wh battery seems to make room with it's curved edges inside the squared frame.

20260417_094216.webp


Enjoy the day and the build "family"!
 
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E-NUB said:
I like to "take my time" with a new build bonding with new components and unleashing their potential with a turn of the wrench! But things are underway of course..

Step 1 - Got the rear brake installed loosely to "root the cable" per the build video. I pulled my 600 battery out and used the left side routing tube built into the frame as T suggested is the way for RH2's, use the 2 guide tubes.

Slipped right through with some gentle wiggles and twists when needed.

View attachment 182200
Note that rear triangle glistening in this shot @Singletrackmind , just for you pardner.

The raw stuff shows up as well, raw looking and almost pre-scratched up appearing so you don't got to worry about being rough with this girl in my mind.

View attachment 182201

Now just wondering where the heck will I route the dropper post cable for the next step?!

There are 2 guide tubes, one comes with the display unit wire pre-installed. One for the rear brake, but what about that dropper cable?

Anyone with an RH2 and a 600 or 800 battery try routing a 3rd cable yet? Havent tried it to be honest, just looks to be super tight and my brain is already foreseeing a potential obstacle.

View attachment 182207

Enjoy the day and the build "family"!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the follow up pics! Appreciate the efforts to highlight the "raw" finish. Totally understand the methodological approach you are taking.

Looks like the model I ordered as a complete build come with the silver or "clear" anodized Cascade links. Seems like it will match well with the silver Crestline branding/lettering.

I reached out to Crestline and Fanatik (the bike shop that had the last available RH3 frame size) to see if I could swap the red Zeb for a Black Zed and unfortunately but understandably Crestline pre-orders their entire kits and bike shop couldn't exchange as well.

Decided to swap out majority of components on my current S180 over to the new RS181.2 and will sell S180.

I like to have another bike set up more for climbing tyoe rides and looking at a Mondraker Zendit full 29er.
 
E-NUB said:
Think the issue may be it looks set to ST vs LT?!! :LOL:

Do you need to undo the shock mount to remove the rebound knob?

Does the bike go into stinkbug mode (lower front end pushing weight forward) in ST or does the geo change with the travel or?

What the fork.. 160, 180? I dont get the ST mode on this bike really can you explain how it works and the benefit as it seems there must be a reasoning for this?!
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It’s just an option to run shorter travel, as far as I’m aware ST does effect geo, just simply changes travel to 160. The geo change would come from different fork travel. 10mm of fork travel will adjust the HA by .4 of a degree, just apply that to any travel change plus or minus.

I’ve run both, i prefer 180 F/R. 160 ramps up quicker and is a little snappier so if that’s your jam go that way. 180 is still plenty playful but more comfortable.
 
Scford said:
It’s just an option to run shorter travel, as far as I’m aware ST does effect geo, just simply changes travel to 160. The geo change would come from different fork travel. 10mm of fork travel will adjust the HA by .4 of a degree, just apply that to any travel change plus or minus.

I’ve run both, i prefer 180 F/R. 160 ramps up quicker and is a little snappier so if that’s your jam go that way. 180 is still plenty playful but more comfortable.
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Thanks a bunch!

So it is the stinkbug effect, but minimal since you run the 180 fork. Definitely sounds worth testing out to see how it feels. (y)
 
This is the build thread,

Step 2 - Lindsey got her OneUp dropper cable routed and post installed!

20260417_150032.webp


I had removed the battery trying to be like T on the video, so ended up sliding the cable through first without the battery in.

Then zip tied the dropper cable to the display wire to hold the cable in place with some tension as I slid the battery back into position.

1776466214077.webp


Used a broom handle with a soft plastic tip to gently nudge the battery and align the mounting holes.

Learned this trick after the battery got "wedged" in the frame! I tried to run the cable housing damper (to be cool like T again) and it got stuck and tore the foam. Caressed it out without a scuff using the broom through the head tube.

20260417_133838.webp


The dropper cable ended up finding its own path or I may have got lucky. It lined right up with the groove in the battery along the display wire.

20260417_143618.webp


She is coming along mighty fine!

20260417_145924.webp




20260417_145825.webp


Hope this helps, cheers time family!
 
Super sweet build and weight. Looks great. I'm torn on wireless droppers... they are so ugly. I have one and its look always annoys me.
 
E-NUB said:
I like to "take my time" with a new build bonding with new components and unleashing their potential with a turn of the wrench! But things are underway of course..

Step 1 - Got the rear brake installed loosely to "root the cable" per the build video. I pulled my 600 battery out and used the left side routing tube built into the frame as T suggested is the way for RH2's, use the 2 guide tubes.

Slipped right through with some gentle wiggles and twists when needed.

View attachment 182200
Note that rear triangle glistening in this shot @Singletrackmind , just for you pardner.

The raw stuff shows up as well, raw looking and almost pre-scratched up appearing so you don't got to worry about being rough with this girl in my mind.

View attachment 182201

Now just wondering where the heck will I route the dropper post cable for the next step?!

There are 2 guide tubes, one comes with the display unit wire pre-installed. One for the rear brake, but what about that dropper cable?

Anyone with an RH2 and a 600 or 800 battery try routing a 3rd cable yet? Havent tried it to be honest, just looks to be super tight and my brain is already foreseeing a potential obstacle. T made it look easy , but the 700wh battery seems to make room with it's curved edges inside the squared frame.

View attachment 182207

Enjoy the day and the build "family"!
Click to expand...
Scroll back and read my post about the cable routing. Long story short, if you have a 600 or 800w battery, you must route the brake and shifter cable, (if your not wireless) through the 2 top tube tubes and the display and dropper cables through the 2 downtube tubes. The 2 top tube tubes entrances are on either side of the base of the seat tube and they exit just behind the display port in the top tube.

Edit, I see you managed to squeeze it in. Just note, there are 2 more tunnels to use which will make it much easier to get your battery in and out without jamming on the cable.
 
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TTEngineer said:
It really comes down to how much the rider weighs.

As a Clyde I require at minimum an 800wh battery. And if I plan on self shuttles the I really need an additional battery.

I have a 36” waste, 6’1”, FTP of 368, and weigh 245lbs. So for me if I want to ride with my buddy who weighs 160lbs and has 500wh then I have to swap at some point.

The swappable battery was the biggest reason I went with crestline.

I’m certainly going to detune, b/c no one needs 130Nm and 1300w. I’ll probably max it at 700w and 60Nm.

I asked the same question in the other thread as to what they meant by “contact us”. The explanation is weak in my option though. I’d love to see some detail photos of how they tape the cables and if they used the foam or not.

I wish the frame had tubes though. For the price, it really should have.


Either way, I’m stoked. I’m order 6404 so I’m like #200 ish down the line. Hoping to see traction on the FedEx app this week.
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TTEngineer said:
It really comes down to how much the rider weighs.

As a Clyde I require at minimum an 800wh battery. And if I plan on self shuttles the I really need an additional battery.

I have a 36” waste, 6’1”, FTP of 368, and weigh 245lbs. So for me if I want to ride with my buddy who weighs 160lbs and has 500wh then I have to swap at some point.

The swappable battery was the biggest reason I went with crestline.

I’m certainly going to detune, b/c no one needs 130Nm and 1300w. I’ll probably max it at 700w and 60Nm.

I asked the same question in the other thread as to what they meant by “contact us”. The explanation is weak in my option though. I’d love to see some detail photos of how they tape the cables and if they used the foam or not.

I wish the frame had tubes though. For the price, it really should have.


Either way, I’m stoked. I’m order 6404 so I’m like #200 ish down the line. Hoping to see traction on the FedEx app this week.
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I also went the Crestline way. Because of the removable battery. The more I read. The more I worry, that it will be hard work trying to hot swapped a battery, out on a ride.

I do big days out , without chance of a charge.

I’m hoping T or a member who’s built their bike. Comes back with a detailed answer.
 
N19EGT said:
I also went the Crestline way. Because of the removable battery. The more I read. The more I worry, that it will be hard work trying to hot swapped a battery, out on a ride.

I do big days out , without chance of a charge.

I’m hoping T or a member who’s built their bike. Comes back with a detailed answer.
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idk where I posted it but I did contact them about hot swapping and he basically said be extra careful when routing then being sure to tape the hoses off so they don’t kink when replacing the battery. Then he said the best option is to just use a power station (I have a jackery) and fast charge.

These batteries really weren’t meant to be removed and although they did design the frame to be able to more easily get the battery out, it isn’t an ideal solution. Seems like the fewer hoses you run thru the downtube, the easier it will be to hotswap.
 
Batteries, wanted the 800 but none left, got the 600. Troydon said he expected some 800’s left over but unfortunately bike showed up with a 600. My question is, is there a new version 800 along with the 700? Do I need that to get full watts and will they all fit the RH3?Thanks
 
jej737 said:
Batteries, wanted the 800 but none left, got the 600. Troydon said he expected some 800’s left over but unfortunately bike showed up with a 600. My question is, is there a new version 800 along with the 700? Do I need that to get full watts and will they all fit the RH3?Thanks
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All 3 batteries will fit the rH3 & 4. The rh2 will only take the 600 & 800. The 700 is the only battery with the new cells.
 
jej737 said:
Batteries, wanted the 800 but none left, got the 600. Troydon said he expected some 800’s left over but unfortunately bike showed up with a 600. My question is, is there a new version 800 along with the 700? Do I need that to get full watts and will they all fit the RH3?Thanks
Click to expand...
You need the 700 to get 1500w. The only other batteries that will fit are the old 600 and 800 which cap you at 1300w.
 
Wah said:
You need the 700 to get 1500w. The only other batteries that will fit are the old 600 and 800 which cap you at 1300w.
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Has anyone in the US been able to source a 700 or 800 battery?
 
FrogSkunk said:
#60 arrived just in time to take flight! Leaving for Jarrods Place on weds! LFG!! 🤘🏼View attachment 182348View attachment 182349View attachment 182350View attachment 182352View attachment 182353View attachment 182355
Zeb is a beaut, but she’s a chunky girl

View attachment 182351
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FrogSkunk said:
#60 arrived just in time to take flight! Leaving for Jarrods Place on weds! LFG!! 🤘🏼View attachment 182348View attachment 182349View attachment 182350View attachment 182352View attachment 182353View attachment 182355
Zeb is a beaut, but she’s a chunky girl

View attachment 182351
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Where do you live, I’m in ATL
 
FrogSkunk said:
Been in Santa Rosa Beach now for almost ten years. Its beautiful here, but I have to drive 3-4 hours every time I want ‘ride’ 🤣
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You got uwf trails nearish. I’m from Florida (Tampa area) originally and lived in defuniak for a year so close to you. I would ride those uwf trails a lot. There was also trails in Milton and niceville, but not as good.
 
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