Crestline RS 181.2 thread – builds, reviews, technical info

Brawwp said:
You got uwf trails nearish. I’m from Florida (Tampa area) originally and lived in defuniak for a year so close to you. I would ride those uwf trails a lot. There was also trails in Milton and niceville, but not as good.
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uwf is decent and Shane has been doing serious work at Muscogee. Timberlake in FWB is decent, but we have a pretty good step up at Niceville and a few other fun jumps. Nothing like you have in your part of Florida though.

Honestly, Jarrods ruined me. All I want to do is go up there and launch myself into outer space. 🚀 🪐 😂
 
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E-NUB said:
The ebike gods have spoken, let there be a coil on your Plaid!

I ordered the air as well, but hoping for a coil shock now in my box too.. 🤞
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I should have a rock shock coil with mine but have an Ohlins coil on order so I’ll be selling my shock that’s in the box. Arriving sometime next week. I’m in California.
 
Wah said:
idk where I posted it but I did contact them about hot swapping and he basically said be extra careful when routing then being sure to tape the hoses off so they don’t kink when replacing the battery. Then he said the best option is to just use a power station (I have a jackery) and fast charge.

These batteries really weren’t meant to be removed and although they did design the frame to be able to more easily get the battery out, it isn’t an ideal solution. Seems like the fewer hoses you run thru the downtube, the easier it will be to hotswap.
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Totally agree. I'm thinking if you want to hot swap battery the wireless dropper post almost seems to become a requirement. You can hear the "T-guidance" is now fast charging over hot swapping and removable battery.

The 700 looks to have extra room to keep stuff out of the way. Maybe a couple 700 batteries may work out with the extra space for cable routing. 🤷‍♂️

If you can get some type of strap/handle/drawstring on the battery to help pull it out and align the bolt holes for mounting this also would go a long ways for swapping.
 
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Anyone who ordered the Fox fork with the bike missing the brake line clip? Or is it somewhere well hidden? Thanks.
 
Can these run a 32t chainring? I run a 45-9 cassette, I miss the 51t on steep climbs in eco or off if that makes sense.

Yes and don't worry, I know how turbo works. I often pedal with others on normal bikes 🙂
 
Brawwp said:
You got uwf trails nearish. I’m from Florida (Tampa area) originally and lived in defuniak for a year so close to you. I would ride those uwf trails a lot. There was also trails in Milton and niceville, but not as good.
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Still in Tampa?
 
Brawwp said:
No ride reports yet?!
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First shakedown ride complete. Coming off a RS75 (same geo), the handling is very familiar. The motor is quiet and smooth. I also have a Levo gen3 and this M2s is comparable in terms of noise levels (almost none). Tire noise is much more noticeable. I had to stop and check my pressures just to be sure they were good.

The build was straight forward except for cabling. My biggest problem was routing the Sram power cable. Trying to use the supplied guide string was useless. The string will choose a narrower path than the power cable connector will fit thru. Best approach was to run a 4mm shifter cable housing thru the chainstay from the motor end to the derailleur end. Once you get the housing thru to the aft hole, you can fish it out with a pick. Then tape the power cable connector to the housing and pull it thru carefully. The shifter housing will take a larger path when pulling it thru the chainstay. I didn't have too much of an issue with a seat post cable. It went thru to downtube pretty easily along side of the controller cable. Battery housing was not too bad. I will say that (hot swappable) is not a term I would associate with this battery. It takes some patience getting a battery back in without pinching cable. The Levo is a two minute job whereas this battery is gonna take awhile. Not really worth it. I would stick with wireless drivetrain and seatpost if you plan on frequent battery swaps.

If you detach the rear likage as depicted in the installation video, make trIple sure the re-install with the spacers. There is a spacer on the outside of each of the 4 bearings. It's pretty easy to miss getting the associated thru bolt thru one of the spacers and not notice ( don't ask how I know). If you miss the spacer closet to the chainring, your chainring will be even closer than before.

IMG_1023.webp
 
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Wah said:
We need more plaid build pics. C'mon people.

EDIT: Did anyone that ordered a Zeb or fox 38 thru crestline get their frame and forks yet?
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Yes - received my chalk 3 (frame 120) with Zeb yesterday - packaged well and toghether - pondering wheels and parts!
 
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Madog said:
If you detach the rear likage as depicted in the installation video, make trIple sure the re-install with the spacers. There is a spacer on the outside of each of the 4 bearings. It's pretty easy to miss getting the associated thru bolt thru one of the spacers and not notice ( don't ask how I know). If you miss the spacer closet to the chainring, your chainring will be even closer than before.
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Thank you!! 🙏🏼
Your post just saved me from a catastrophic failure 😂. I read yours, then started looking because I did struggle for a few minutes when I was lining them up. I thought I had them. I did not. Phewwww
IMG_7221.webp
 
Madog said:
My biggest concern is the chain ring. T-Type is supposed to be a 55mm chainline. This chainring is 52. Shifting is okay but the teeth are quite close to the chainstay. I think a 34 tooth would be better for now until someone make a compatible chainring with a 55mm chainlinel.


View attachment 182442
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Did the chain ring come with the bike? Does it not have 8mm printed on the chain ring?

e13 offer an Avinox version that is '8mm offset for 55mm chainline' as stated on their site. - Helix Race e*spec Chainring

1776619964567.webp
 
breakfasttaco93 said:
Reminder to all to remove the rebound knob from vivid airs (and coil maybe?) if you're running ST flip chip position. Will definitely contact the shock tunnel when suspension cycles thru travel.
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Is there a method to change rebound once together? Can you temporarily put the knob on just to change settings without taking things apart? I’m not familiar with how the knob is affixed.
 
Powerslider said:
Is there a method to change rebound once together? Can you temporarily put the knob on just to change settings without taking things apart? I’m not familiar with how the knob is affixed.
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It just pulls off. It's a removable 3mm hex key knob you can use to adjust HBO and HSC.

To adjust rebound you have to take the loam cover off and use a long 3mm hex to click thru rebound settings. You can't reinstall the knob once the shock is reinstalled, no clearance to get it back on as it hits the frame. TBH even in LT it's kinda tough to rotate the rebound knob with the tight clearance between the shock tunnel, loam cover and the knob.

I asked Troydon about it and he basically said "just run it in LT".

Same deal on my megatower, just a VPP thing.
 
Candid said:
Did the chain ring come with the bike? Does it not have 8mm printed on the chain ring?

e13 offer an Avinox version that is '8mm offset for 55mm chainline' as stated on their site. - Helix Race e*spec Chainring

View attachment 182469
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I stand corrected. I had not seen that spec listed. I just saw the 53mm spec and assumed that’s what we got. The 8mm offset stamp is behind the locking so I’ll trust that’s the case. Still think the chainring teeth are close to the chainstay. After a ride though I had no issues with it.
 
Madog said:
I stand corrected. I had not seen that spec listed. I just saw the 53mm spec and assumed that’s what we got. The 8mm offset stamp is behind the locking so I’ll trust that’s the case. Still think the chainring teeth are close to the chainstay. After a ride though I had no issues with it.
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Yeah does look close!

Hopefully my frame will arrive this week so I can see for myself !
 
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