Bafang M820 Firmware thread

I wonder how they count that. Even with 48V battery and 43V firmware I get maximum 650W. So with cadens 80 that is still only 77Nm.
 
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I wonder how they count that. Even with 48V battery and 43V firmware I get maximum 650W. So with cadens 80 that is still only 77Nm.
Its called rounding up :)

Most I've seen logged at the battery has been 630W's with 52V's on 48V firmware.
 
So this one from #11 is written in Chinese/Japanese and when you install the file it says 4812E
I don’t know anything about that. I guess you have checked through all the posts to search for the firmware you want?
 
Hi guys,
About a month ago I installed the 36v 3.3 final firmware on my Cef.50 with the Bafang Go+ v2.2 app. I could change the settings with my phone. I was happy with it. I wanted to try the 36v 3.2 final firmware. I have to say I found it better. It gives me more thrust with less force on climbs, but it doesn't let me change the settings with the app, like with the 3.3.
I think some firmware can be modified on my phone and others can't.

With Beest, I can do everything.
Has anyone experienced the same thing with the Bafang Go+ v2.2 app?
All the other versions don't work; they don't let me change the settings.
 
Hey guys, quick question:
Is there any difference in hardware between the 36v, 43v and 48v hardware variants, or are they identical? My 48v m820 arrived DOA, but the vendor was able to sell me a used m820 for dirt cheap to get me up and running while I wait for Bafang US to do the warranty repair. The motor was flashed to the 48v firmware, but I'm wondering if there's any reason running it out of its original spec might reduce its life? I'd think the 48v firmware would actually reduce the amps it pulls, and actually help extend life, but I dont know for sure.

I'm sure this info has already been answered, but my searches here and on google didnt turn up anything concrete. But from what I can see, seems like lots of people are swapping firmware pretty interchangably. Thanks.
 
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Hi, for the settings on an M820 48v (firmware, wheel diameter, or speed), which is more recommended: Besst or K1flash? From what I've seen, K1flash seems easier to use, but I don't know if it has fewer features. Does anyone have both and can recommend one?
 
Is there any difference in hardware between the 36v, 43v and 48v hardware variants,
No hardware difrences there.

Hi, for the settings on an M820 48v (firmware, wheel diameter, or speed), which is more recommended: Besst or K1flash? From what I've seen, K1flash seems easier to use, but I don't know if it has fewer features. Does anyone have both and can recommend one?
None of them. Canable now can do all of this and it's dirt cheap.
 
No hardware difrences there.


None of them. Canable now can do all of this and it's dirt cheap.

Thanks for the confirmation.

I'm also half way down the canable rabbit hole myself. Ordered mine from aliexpress a couple weeks ago, and hoping it gets delivered today, actually. Following the canable thread on ES looks promising. Thank you for your efforts!
 
THX.
In besst version 1.1.18 you can go offline - without login. Speed changes without problems.

I took firmware 4813E from here. The same firmware was sent to me by those who sold the besst adapter.

I made my m820 almost the same as the 4th generation Bosch. The motor helps at once with 600 watts. This is very cool. I get a kick in the ass again with such power. Now I enjoy the mountains.

Thanks to everyone on the forum. Without you, I wouldn't be riding a bike now.

The bike immediately produces 600 watts in boost mode. Before, the maximum was 450 watts and the motor did not help right away. The bike was very sluggish. Now the bike is a blast. 600 watts is very, very good for a light bike of 19-20 kg.
Could you share the firmware 4813e maybe it is different from mine
 
Hi thanks, for respondin. I have found CRX30PC4313E102004.5_230721. and have put that on. Is it the same 43V 13amp as mentioned above? I had done a short ride with it and it’s much better than what was previously in the motor? I will do a longer ride to test it more, especially for battery consumption. Question, how can I tell the difference in 10am v 13amp firmware? I guess it’s shown in the letter/number sequence? Cheers
An update, so far so good. The firmware has enabled me to travel far more than previously on a single charge, currently I have covered 54k mostly in E mode, but only 564 ascent, it will be higher but I have not recorded height gain on two of the three short rides I have done so far, 41% remaining battery is shown on the display, but I think that remaining capacity may drop off quite quickly on the next ride.
 
Hello, I have a M820 and are on firmware, CRX30PC4812E102012.1_240412.bin I have Besst PRO and updated to the latest firmware on the program but its the wrong voltage setting as I get 07 error, how do find the best / latest firmware for the M820, my max in boost is like 420w or something, and its a bit slugglish, does anyone know of new FW, maybe firmware 4813e??? where do I get that??? thx in advance!
 
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Hello, I have a M820 and are on firmware, CRX30PC4812E102012.1_240412.bin I have Besst PRO and updated to the latest firmware on the program but its the wrong voltage setting as I get 07 error, how do find the best / latest firmware for the M820, my max in boost is like 420w or something, and its a bit slugglish, does anyone know of new FW, maybe firmware 4813e??? where do I get that??? thx in advance!
Bro what your battery voltage ? 36 or 42 or 48
 
Which is the best of the 12a? I think the 13a might overheat.
I am using the E road version as it has less OVER RUN
 

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With 48V battery you should definetly try this 43V firmware. More power and longer range. Downsides are battery percentage is more messed up than normal, it stays on 100% until battery is about 70%, then it drops more rapidly.
 

Attachments

Which is the best of the 12a? I think the 13a might overheat.
I just loaded the
With 48V battery you should definetly try this 43V firmware. More power and longer range. Downsides are battery percentage is more messed up than normal, it stays on 100% until battery is about 70%, then it drops more rapidly.
so how does this work, the 43v FW is 13A, but as the voltage is now 48v, you end up pulling more current, thus its MORE POWER, that right??, how do you then get more range, if your pulling more power???
 
I'm guessing the lower "low voltage cutoff" is the reason for greater range. For me, keeping more accurate battery percentage readings and a more conservative /safer LVCO are far more important than a small increase in output. But that's just my take.

I am curious what other aspects of the 4313 firmware make it faster than the 4813 firmware, and if any of those can be addressed through BESST or Canable Pro / Open Bafang.

But for now, Ive been happy with 4812. I'm no featherweight, and worry about overheating.
 
I'm guessing the lower "low voltage cutoff" is the reason for greater range. For me, keeping more accurate battery percentage readings and a more conservative /safer LVCO are far more important than a small increase in output. But that's just my take.

I am curious what other aspects of the 4313 firmware make it faster than the 4813 firmware, and if any of those can be addressed through BESST or Canable Pro / Open Bafang.

But for now, Ive been happy with 4812. I'm no featherweight, and worry about overheating.
AHH lower LVC, makes sense, but I am w you, better to keep correct LVC for battery life, I just installed 4813E, but are only 70kg, so will keep an eye on heat for sure..... thx guys!!
 
The firmware 4813E, as it's listed on the control panel I installed a 4813E, but the control panel shows 4812E. Could you please check this?
 
The firmware 4813E, as it's listed on the control panel I installed a 4813E, but the control panel shows 4812E. Could you please check this?
I installed 4813e, but on the screen on my bike, it shows, 4812E, anyway, hope that is the info your after....not sure why, but going to test it this morning....
 
I installed 4813e, but on the screen on my bike, it shows, 4812E, anyway, hope that is the info your after....not sure why, but going to test it this morning....
Sorry I haven't try the 4813e as I am using 4812 e road and I like to cycle non stop until battery fall under 30% which motor sometime overheat mid way.
 
Hey Guys, just a quick report on the 4813e FW< it seems to be less cadance to get good power, so power is pushed a bit more to the MID RPM band, I can back off my MODE selection, so use to ride S+ and boost, but now, S and S+ feel the same....and under boost, up a hill on a 30degC day, temp (touched by hand) was about 50deg...so not too bad...I will keep an eye on heat levels, as we are in summer here in AU... thx everyone, its a better bike to ride now!!!

20251113_145453.jpg
 
I'm guessing the lower "low voltage cutoff" is the reason for greater range. For me, keeping more accurate battery percentage readings and a more conservative /safer LVCO are far more important than a small increase in output. But that's just my take.

I am curious what other aspects of the 4313 firmware make it faster than the 4813 firmware, and if any of those can be addressed through BESST or Canable Pro / Open Bafang.

But for now, Ive been happy with 4812. I'm no featherweight, and worry about overheating.
Yes, you are right, the battery percentage shown is not good but I have learned how it goes over time. Even using 48V firmware doesn't show correct values, it drops slowly in the beginning and in the end it drops very quickly.

The lower voltage cutoff is a compromise. Bafang has gone very conservative and added on top of that a slow mode (max 120W) from 20% down. When battery goes under 47V(3.6V per cell) it goes into the battery saving mode on 48V firmware. Using 43V firmware, the battery saving starts around 43V(3.3V per cell). I use JBD bms and it shows as default 20% around same time as the display, on the 43V firmware. Other motor manufacturers, like shimano and bosch, don't have this kind of behavior and they still work fine.

Battery will probably last longer with "standard" settings. Probably best if you don't use it at all. I want to use it to the max as long as it lasts, but it is my personal choice. I use diy battery, so building a new battery is not a big deal, using OEM batteries also has to be taken into account.
 
Even using 48V firmware doesn't show correct values, it drops slowly in the beginning and in the end it drops very quickly.
All Li-ion batteries will do this. The only way around this is to measure Coulombs together with OCV. Complex and would add additional cost to the motors.
 
First custom firmware for M820 is here.
For now for 11S battery.
The changes introduced in brief:
- fixed battery SOC and cutoff
- fixed walk assist with a lot of more power
- modified SPD Table for more torque sensor range
More details on Endless topic:
 
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First custom firmware for M820 is here.
For now for 11S battery.
The changes introduced in brief:
- fixed battery SOC and cutoff
- fixed walk assist with a lot of more power
- modified SPD Table for more torque sensor range
More details on Endless topic:
Is this firmware work with 43V motor and battery?
 
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