Vitus E-Sommet VR

[R120]

I think they do, I was heavily leaning towards an MRP, but I dont want to spend 500 quid plus on a shock that I may not like, and due to the sizing isn't going to be easy to sell on to anyone other than a Vitus owner.

I will say I am looking for a rear end that tracks the ground, I do like to play around a bit but popability isn't my main target.

 

[R120]

Just as a heads up it’s looking like the coil won’t fit, at least with a 600 spring - the spring hits the sides of the frame pass though at the rear, I haven’t given it a proper go yet but not optimistic.

 

[davosaurusrex]

Balls!

 

[Cisco]

Just as a heads up it’s looking like the coil won’t fit, at least with a 600 spring - the spring hits the sides of the frame pass though at the rear, I haven’t given it a proper go yet but not optimistic.

View attachment 14795

For reference/comparison, the Ohlins 525lb spring has an OD of 53mm. Also, If available, I would expect an equivalent titanium spring to be a little thinner.

 

[R120]

The RS 600lb spring is 56mm, going to try with the 550.

 

[gtaadicto]

Does anyone else find the stock WTB rims quite soft? My rear wheel has already got 3 or 4 dings even with a Rimpact insert.

 

[R120]

So I can confirm the RS Super Deluxe coil won't fit on an E-Sommett, at least with anything that isn't a lower weight spring that is likely not enough for an emtb, as the RS Springs are a larger diameter than an Ohlins or Fox and foul on the frame. I am going to see if I can source an alternative spring from TI-Springs which may work, but not hopeful.

In other news I have made some tweaks to the bike.

• Reduced fork travel back to 170mm from 180mm
• Hope 36t Chainring
• DT Swiss thru axle on the back
• Swapped my pedals from One-Up to Burgtec, which I am now running on all my bike as I like how close they sit to the cranks.
• Removed the e8000 display and have gone display less by using the EW-EN100 module.
• Some new decals for the forks from Slik
• Michelin E-Wild 2.6 tyres

I am really liking the EW-EN100, de clutters the bike, and I now realise that the screen is quite a distraction - by using the E-Tube ride app on my phone you can get range etc etc info if I need to check anything.

I dropped the travel on the forks back to 170mm as although I liked running the 180mm, I dont need the extra 10mm and it puts the front of the bike slightly too high IMO for weighting the front end well and being able to flick the bike about. It also made it want to wheelie like a bastard on steep climbs.

Only had one ride on the tyres but they where great on the forum ride in a mix of hardpack trails with mud where the sun hasn't cleared the water in the woods, but will reserve full judgement until a few months time - the side knobs are fecking beasts though!

I still love this bike, and can't see any reason to move on, or any other bike I would rather have.

 

[Gary]

So I can confirm the RS Super Deluxe coil won't fit on an E-Sommett, at least with anything that isn't a lower weight spring that is likely not enough for an emtb, as the RS Springs are a larger diameter than an Ohlins or Fox and foul on the frame. I am going to see if I can source an alternative spring from TI-Springs which may work, but not hopeful.

how much by?
and where does it rub?
I've carefully dremelled away frame uprights in the past to clear non OE shocks/springs. but they were always DH frames and had plenty material there.
Possible? non?
Don't have my Sommet with me so can't take a quick look to guess where it's fouling.

I am really liking the EW-EN100, de clutters the bike, and I now realise that the screen is quite a distraction - by using the E-Tube ride app on my phone you can get range etc etc info if I need to check anything.

That's really neat. I like it a lot... does it show no indication at all though? a simple LED that changed colour between blue/green/yellow would have been cool. not sure I'd prefer it even if it did as I do refer to the coloured (mode indicator) power bar on mine a lot while riding,

I tend to set my E8000 display to show cadence and have a tiny Tomtom GPS multisports watch bar mounted at the other side of the stem showing gps speed as the main metric with two smaller metrics above showing elapsed time and time of the day (mainly for commuting/geting to work on time). it also shows total elevation among other functions (real handy for range guestimate)

 

[R120]

It has 2 led's - a green one that comes on when you switch the bike on, then another one next to it, which is unlit when power assistance is off, blue when Eco, Green when Trail, and Red when Boost. The little button is for activating the bluetooth connection, you just hold it down for a couple of seconds and the power LED starts flashing to indicate its looking for a connection. The bike is switched off in the pictures. There is also a red battery symbol that comes on when you get down to one bar.

I keep my phone in my pocket, I can see the battery life left when on the bike by looking at the battery LED's, but if I want to check range etc I just pull the phone out. The phone app is designed to replicate a display, so you could mount the phone to the bars, you can customise the app to display all the info at once, or just what you want, so it soul just display cadence and speed for example.

I suspect the Junction A could connect to a Garmin and you could display the info via the Shimano Steps function that I think the latest gARMINS HAVE.

New Garmin Edge with Shimano Steps integration - EMTB Forums

The story behind the shock is that the bike went into a LBS for full suspension service, and to alter the fork travel (I had a crash and needed time off the bike, so took the opportunity to do this as was overdue).

Long story short they sent the suspension off to Sram Tech Centre to be serviced, which they where told would take 4 days, but ended up being a nightmare and taking 4 weeks (I only got the bike back on Friday, just in time for the Forum ride).

I had intended to fit the coil myself, but given how long Sram where taking, I asked the shop too, and they had the issue - I went in to have a look, and took the attached picture, but it wasn't an ideal situation to try as at the time I went in to double check as the bike was stripped down and not on a work stand, but you could see where the coil hits the frame.

However I want to check this all through again, i just want to ride the bike now, but will give it a go myself in a couple of weeks. I reckon I may be able to get it to work, with a very tight clearance, I think it would fit when sagged, my concern is that it would still rub/hit with no load on it.

I also have a Meg Neg can on order to try out.

 

[Gary]

Hmm..
That does look mighty close.
it also looks as if the spring is oversized for thre spring colar retainer underneath.
Maybe a custom spring could give you the clearance you need.

Odd that the shop couldn't service your suspension in house. Were (non seal/service kit) parts damaged ?

thanks for the detailed explanation of the EN100
is it possible to attach it so the junction box would sit infront of the stem/bars (LEDs facing up) ?

I was riding with a few Levo/Kenevos today and thought to myself how daft the positioning of the LED display was on the downtube

 

[R120]

Yup you can position it pretty much anywhere, I pushed the cable that goes from the display to the motor back down into the downtube, but you could attach it to any cable, or indeed part of the bike within reason of the length of the controller cable. It come with a rubber housing that allows you to attach it to the cables.

I had noticed that on the retainer - the shock came with a 300lb spring out the box.

 

[R120]

Most of the shops round here send stuff off to TF or Sram (or Silverfish if Fox). There is a local guy who is top notch, but he seems to have disappeared off the face of the planet, hence why I ended up going to LBS, who to be fair where really good, and didn't charge me for any of the labour, only the parts, due to the delay, even though it wasn't really their fault.

 

[tonyker]

Has anybody gone 2.8 tyres? If so what have you gone for?

 

[gtaadicto]

I think that my E- sommet at 1100 km is starting to develop bottom bracket play. There is a very slight lateral movement at the tip of the cranks. This movement is transmitted through the BB from one crank to the other so I guess it's the BB
I'll try to replace the threaded caps for new aluminium ones, but I'm not very optimistic.

 

[Gary]

I'll try to replace the threaded caps for new aluminium ones, but I'm not very optimistic.

This will do nothing to aleviate play. Alu caps are just a security measure to solve crank arms walking off the axle and losing a crank.
The cap for E8000 cranks doesn't take up bearing play like a standard HTII crank arm cap does. It simply pushes the arm onto the spline before the pinchbolts hold it in place.
If your axle has play it's the main axle bearings going/gone.
there is slight lateral play in the E8000 axle from new. (it's sort of sprung) it's when the play becomes angular rather than lateral you have a problem.
When this happens your motor (bearings/axle) will start to make creaking noises when pressure is applied to the crank.

 

[R120]

Was out yesterday and noticed at the bottom of a run that the motor assistance had cut out - as I don't have the display any more I had to use the E-Tube Ride app to see what it was, and I got the W010 fault code, which depending on what bit of literature you read means either the motor has got too hot, or unknown fault:

Drive unit temperature higher than normal

Turned the bike on and off a few times, and still no assistance. Then changed the battery for my spare, and it worked for about 10 minutes before starting to get the W010 code, then turned on and off, and got the W013 code, which is:

Initialization of torque sensor not completed successfully

Got back home and put the bike away, then last night had another play with it - same problem when Turing on, straight to the W013 code. So then I cleaned all the connectors, and did a full software update on all the components (hadn't done one in about 6 months). This appeared to solve the problem, as I took the bike out for 20 minutes and it rode fine, will take it out again this morning and see what happens.

It was very hot yesterday, and I was riding the bike hard around Surrey Hills, so hoping nothing terminal.

The attached pics of behind the connection cover shows the amount of crud accumulated in there since I last took it off back in October - looks bad but actually quite impressed not more, considering I ride the bike in all conditions all year round.

 

[R120]

Upadte - wouldn't work again this morning, so off to the LBS to plug in the laptop and see if that sheds any light on the matter. Hoping it isn't terminal!

 

[Gary]

Bear in mind most of the mud/dirt that's got into your motor will have been wet as it entered the casing. Your connections could be in pretty bad shape.
It's a pretty poor design on the Sommet. And there's a completely open gap into the junction box from above. (straight through the wiring nest and down directly in to the connector junction compartment)
Mine now stays clean since I
Motofoamed above the motor, under the wiring nest, to the rear and inside Downtube junction. Added the wiring nest Pakora tray flap/cover above. Siliconed the cover edge and added a strip of electrical tape to the edge.

Hope yours isn't terminal.. Or I hope you have a fast turn around if it needs replaced.

 

[Cisco]

I had the W013 error come up on mine mid ride quickly followed by a full screen E010

I did everything I could in the way of terminal cleaning and resetting but that motor never started again. CRC replaced the motor and I'm cooking on gas again.

After a slow start CRC warranty came through well. From fault occurring to bike being returned was around six weeks which got me out on my Capra again but I missed the e-bike. It's a real game changer for me at least.

As far as the lhs junction box is concerned I filled the void where the three cables enter with some bathroom silicone which keeps the crud out.

Good luck with, after years of fixing cars, bikes and everything else it is a shock to be stopped dead in your tracks by an electric motor error code!

 

[R120]

I am lucky in that I have two EMTB's, but have to say given the weather at the moment I will be proper pissed if the bike has to go back.

 

[davosaurusrex]

Can't you just nick the motor from the hardtail? Guess not if they insist on having the whole bike back

 

[R120]

Can't you just nick the motor from the hardtail? Guess not if they insist on having the whole bike back

Yes, but than I have to send the hardtail back, and that's had a respray so they may have a grumble at that.

 

[tonyker]

Thinking of boosting my fork to 180mm has anybody one it on theirs?

 

[Master Link]

Just noticed that CRC has a medium VR for sale

 

[inwoods]

Lat ride out I was getting some what seemed like chain slipping, got in indexed gears and still the same, bought a new chain and still the same, tried my other wheel and that was fine with no slipping so I took the cassette off and I'm met with this...cassette seems fine, no chunks missing or even bad wear at least to my eyes, WTF.

 

[khorn]

Lat ride out I was getting some what seemed like chain slipping, got in indexed gears and still the same, bought a new chain and still the same, tried my other wheel and that was fine with no slipping so I took the cassette off and I'm met with this...cassette seems fine, no chunks missing or even bad wear at least to my eyes, WTF.

View attachment 15775

View attachment 15776

View attachment 15777

View attachment 15778

It looks like your cassette have been a little loose on the freewheel, were it tight enough when you took it off?
Anyway an alu freewheel will eventually end up looking like this sooner or later due to the extra power - getting a steel freewheel if possible is a good investment.

Karsten

 

[inwoods]

Yeah it was real tight Karsten, looks like I can just replace the cassette body but struggling to find the correct one, the serial on there comes up with nothing on google.

 

[StuE]

Thinking of boosting my fork to 180mm has anybody one it on theirs?

I replaced the yaris on mine with some 180mm lyrics, bike rides better because they are a better fork, not sure the extra 10mm of travel makes much difference though, if you are happy with the performance of your current fork I would not bother changing it for the extra travel

 

[khorn]

Yeah it was real tight Karsten, looks like I can just replace the cassette body but struggling to find the correct one, the serial on there comes up with nothing on google.

I don't know the Vitus in details but I guess that it is an 11 speed 11-42t or 11-46t. If so, the best bang for buck is the Shimano SLX cassette like this:

Shimano SLX CS-M7000 Cassette 11-speed

Karsten

 

[khorn]

I don't know the Vitus in details but I guess that it is an 11 speed 11-42t or 11-46t. If so, the best bang for buck is the Shimano SLX cassette like this:

Shimano SLX CS-M7000 Cassette 11-speed

Karsten

Maybe I misunderstood you and you mean the freewheel, if so you will need to find the hub model and use that as a reference in your google search.

Karsten