There’s always electrician tape…comes in a few colours also.
That screw seems kinda small and fragile though.
What did you do to your EBike this week?
- Thread starter Mik3F
- Start date
That screw seems kinda small and fragile though.
They've been like that for donkey's years, so...
The best way is to hold the plastic fitting tight to the corresponding spot on the leg & gently start the bolt when you're certain you're perpendicular with the bolt to the hole. Stop immediately if you feel any resistance or it will become threaded. If it does, wedge a bit of cable tie, matchstick. ptfe tape, anything to help hold it in place.
another tip for not rounding off screws is to go backwards until you feel a click then screw it in
Agree but that specific bolt is tiny, short threaded & more or less captive in the plastic fitting. It's the single bolt on a bike where that doesn't really work.
Amber Valley Guy
Well-known member
And they go in on a slight angle, whilst fighting the stiff hose and trying to align the clamp. Think it's an M2 ( might be M2.5) bolt not a set screw.....with threads made of chocolate or possibly a soft French cheese. I'm guessing any muck, dirt, grit etc behind the clamp knackers the thread on the bolt whilst undoing it, then it becomes a nightmare.
I always put a touch of copper grease on the bolt thread before re-installing the clamp. Agree that the bolt does go in at a slight angle and super easy to get it wrong.
Got our bikes back today with the motors duly serviced and overhauled. Surprised and very pleased with the quick turn round, many thanks @Bearing Man ! Cost was also very reasonable with a couple of knackered bearings in each motor and some updated seals - the previous overhaul in 2024 has obviously paid off by minimising wear since then. Motors are also quieter with the nice new bearings.
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ozzybmx
Active member
What a hoo-haa today. New fork arrives at 2pm, I'll fit it up and head out for a ride, shouldn't take much longer than a couple of hours 
Story - the Podium was meant to fit on a size Med Amflow PL. I can tell you it does not and my experimental sizing soon made it clear that it was going to need a full 10mm spacer under the Amflow steerer crown ring to stop the dials hitting the frame, this would have moved the factory ring 10mm up the taper meaning it had no grip on the bottom tapered section.
Not sure how everyone is running 10mm spacers on the crown race to fit their Zeb forks, plus the 10mm spacer means lifting the front by a further 10mm in addition to the 10mm gained from running a 170mm fork.
Left me with 3 options, remove the dials, send the fork back or get the unused Amflow knock block working.
Not ideal as they dumped the idea of the knock block as a hard crash can apparently damage the frame. Seems to work well and do the job.... famous last words, someone can remind me when I hit up Amflow for a front triangle replacement
Its now 7:20pm so it only took 5 hours, going get the lights on and head out for a test ride.
Story - the Podium was meant to fit on a size Med Amflow PL. I can tell you it does not and my experimental sizing soon made it clear that it was going to need a full 10mm spacer under the Amflow steerer crown ring to stop the dials hitting the frame, this would have moved the factory ring 10mm up the taper meaning it had no grip on the bottom tapered section.
Not sure how everyone is running 10mm spacers on the crown race to fit their Zeb forks, plus the 10mm spacer means lifting the front by a further 10mm in addition to the 10mm gained from running a 170mm fork.
Left me with 3 options, remove the dials, send the fork back or get the unused Amflow knock block working.
Not ideal as they dumped the idea of the knock block as a hard crash can apparently damage the frame. Seems to work well and do the job.... famous last words, someone can remind me when I hit up Amflow for a front triangle replacement
Its now 7:20pm so it only took 5 hours, going get the lights on and head out for a test ride.
I have the same contact problem between the compression dials on my Zeb and the frame of my 2022 Trek Rail size M. The Trek knock block does effectively prevent this contact when just rotating the forks by hand, but in the event of a crash the torque on the end of the handlebars from hitting the ground is sufficient to blow past the knock block and I have some - fortunately very minor - scrapes on the frame and dials as a result.Left me with 3 options, remove the dials, send the fork back or get the unused Amflow knock block working.
Not ideal as they dumped the idea of the knock block as a hard crash can apparently damage the frame. Seems to work well and do the job.... famous last words, someone can remind me when I hit up Amflow for a front triangle replacement
So what I do now is ensure that the two bolts holding my stem to the steer tube are only torqued up just enough to ensure that the bars don't twist around from normal riding, but will allow the stem clamp to rotate in the event of the handlebar end plummeting into the ground. So far this works pretty well, and stops the handlebars being over-rotated in a crash and leading to the fork dials hitting the frame. Just my 2 cents.
ozzybmx
Active member
Thanks @nickf, yeah aware that its only stopping gentle bar spins. Relying on the crown ring gripping the tapered steerer to stop rotation is not going to do much it in a decent crash. I'll have to deal with the consequences of that if it arises
Might get some 3D printed replacement dial covers once I have the fork set up correctly. That would be the ideal outcome.
That’s actually a good idea with the stem clamp bolts. An off-centre bar will not ruin your day …but a cracked frame will. I do the same with the brake lever bar clamps. I only tighten those clamps enough to stay in position. They will hopefully rotate in the event of a crash.
I’ve broken Shimano master cylinders before …lesson learned.
I have a medium Rail with knock-bloc and rubber bumpers under the lower tube …where the fork dials/crown could touch. One of those rubber bumpers started to fall off (likely from a crash). I cleaned and re-glued the bumper into position.
Me too.
I have the same rubber bumpers on my med Rail too, but bizarrely the fork dials just miss them when the fork is over-rotated, hence the minor scuffing to the underside of the down tube.
I recall several years back that someone had the same contact issue with their carbon fibre Rail (mine's an aluminium) and he posted pics of how the carbon fibre had been potentially structurally damaged by the serious gouge that the fork cap had made in the frame!
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Carbon frame here also. Perhaps different brands of Forks or different models of forks, just clear the bottom tube.
I have Lyric Forks. The dials don’t clear so the bumper and knock bloc does its job.
But slightly looser stem clamp bolts makes sense.…as long as they are not too loose.
My Rail is a 2022 med size model. I know that larger sizes don't have the same issue, nor the later models that come with a 750Wh battery, since the angle of the downtube from the headtube is different and adds a tad more clearance.
Gila Man
Active member
Uberlube per Powerslider’s recommendation.
Galfer purple per B-man and Polar’s recommendation. If they don’t work and I end up plunging to my doom on some mountainside, the forum has my post-mortem permission to mock both of them.
Galfer purple per B-man and Polar’s recommendation. If they don’t work and I end up plunging to my doom on some mountainside, the forum has my post-mortem permission to mock both of them.
Vallydtor
New Member
Replaced brake lever grips.
JStrube
Active member
set my seat right
cantaloupe
Member
Replaced my 200mm dropper with a 240mm. My partner got jealous, replaced her 120mm dropper with a 150mm.
I crashed on the rocks, luckily at a low speed. I scratched the fork and the rear derailleur and bent the hanger. My body held up, although my wrist took a bit of a hit. All good
Uberlube per Powerslider’s recommendation.
Galfer purple per B-man and Polar’s recommendation. If they don’t work and I end up plunging to my doom on some mountainside, the forum has my post-mortem permission to mock both of them.
Ditto I did the same for the same reasons, haven't tried them in anger yet
JStrube
Active member
Took a nice ride, and discovered my Fox Transfer doesn't pop all the way up.
I can't see what the *may contain scents of says. Is it cigarettes and piss?
It's a nice toilet paper holder.
This is standard with Fox Transfers. Mine goes fully up 50% of the time. My old one was even less.
Of all the droppers I've owned, the most resilient has been the cheapy Brand X Ascend. You can still get them for about £100. The anodising is wearing thin on mine now in places & the seal does let more dirt by than I would like but it has never broken, is a doddle to service & just keeps on trucking.
The One-Up is the best I had. But they don't have a gold version
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