Crestline RS 181.2 thread – builds, reviews, technical info

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Some of you are killing my OCD with your cables, haha. Here is my setup. I wish I could eliminate the brake cables too!

Some of you are killing my OCD with your cables, haha. Here is my setup. I wish I could eliminate the brake cables too! View attachment 183193
Looks nice but it won't work out too well after your first big 'get off' and those bars rip your cables out of the masters!
 
Having trouble with the thread search and ready to rip my hair out with this AXS cable routing. Can someone please point me to some help with this thing. Thank you in advance!
I had the some problem with this as well. I assume you're referring to the sram axs power cord. Every time I tried to pull it through (rear to front) it got hung up in the chainstay. I was using the supplied cable guide, a park tool cable routing kit, lawn trimmer string and shifter cable. All those methods failed because the thinner guide/cable/string will follow a thinner route thru the chainstay so the fatter connector for the power cord will get hung up. I finally routed some shifter cable housing (4mm) from the front hole to the rear. I then taped the power cord connector to the cable housing and pulled it back thru to the front. The thicker cable housing will follow a path that the connector can fit thru.

Getting the shifter cable housing thru initially was not easy either but if you keep fishing, you will get it to a point where you can see the end of the cable thru the rear hole. When you get it that far, you can use a small pick (maybe a tooth pick or dental pick) to fit into the cable end and guide it thru to rear hole.
 
I’d probably wait and see how the stem feels with your stock reach before you order the -5* headset. It might feel good as is. If it still feels too long out front, then get the -5 headset. 🤷🏻‍♂️
I was considering getting your Rulezman 15 mm stem but it costs about the same $336 + shipping + tariff (the last bike items I had shipped from Europe came with tariff bills from FedEx).

The RR stem is -15 mm…so won’t need the -5 mm headset, unless I do not like it.
 
Are any of you shorter RH2 riders using the -5 mm reach adjust headset? (it was sold out when I ordered my Forge frame)

Are any of you shorter riders going to try the BeMoreBikes Gen 2 90 mm RR (Reversed Raised) stem on your RS 181.2?

I doubt I'd feel comfortable with the taller 150 mm version that @Rob Rides EMTB is using...

I ordered one, hopefully it will be worth its $400 cost.
5'10" with an RH2. Plan is to ride the thing a bunch and fine tuning prior to any aggressive geo changes.

I think I am liking the shorter reach so far personally. I found my old bike I slid the seat up all the way forward, I seem more centered with my seat and weight on the Crestline.
 
5'10" with an RH2. Plan is to ride the thing a bunch and fine tuning prior to any aggressive geo changes.

I think I am liking the shorter reach so far personally. I found my old bike I slid the seat up all the way forward, I seem more centered with my seat and weight on the Crestline.
5'10" here on a RH2 as well. My current bike, TR Relay size M has a 452 reach, 634 stack, with 40mm stem and 35mm rise bars. This bike is one of the most fun, comfortable bike's I've ridden. I feel like I have a ton of power to move the bike around so my leverage points must be pretty dialed with the effective reach.

I can compensate the 5mm difference in stack with one less spacer under the stem and I'm assuming I really won't notice the 2mm difference in reach. Heck, rolling my bars forward a couple of degrees could compensate for that. Both bikes have 440 rear center lengths, and in my experience, the "effective reach" (comprised of frame reach, frame stack, spacer stack and stem length) and chain stay length have the most impact on how a bike fits and performs. So I have high expectations for the 181.2 to fit me really well and be a blast to ride.

But if for some reason I feel cramped, it's really nice to be able to add 5mm of reach with a headset.
 
Having trouble with the thread search and ready to rip my hair out with this AXS cable routing. Can someone please point me to some help with this thing. Thank you in advance!

Oh no a family member in need, sorry for the delay here!!

Agree it is tough to find the gold hidden amongst this massive thread, I had posted this back there somewhere..

FIrst use the plastic guide and some tape to fish a strong string with extra length to work with for some real fishing. Then tie the string around the connector to hold it while you pull it through.

Then I wrapped some plumbers tape to hold the string inline with the connector and create a coned shape. Lastly covered it with shipping tape to keep it together and smooth.

Use as little tape as feasible to keep it slim of course. Here is the setup, worked first time no issues.

20260417_185208.webp


Pulled it right through, easy peasy!

20260417_185506.webp


Hope this helps!
 
Finally got my bike from the FedEx warehouse today.

Seat tube was a little smashed but I was able to get the clamp on and a post in so I think I’m gtg. We will see if it creaks.

FYI, my chain stay ends didn’t ship with lock tight on the bolts. I also greased them while pulling them off. Then blue lock tight to keep things snug.
 
I had the some problem with this as well. I assume you're referring to the sram axs power cord. Every time I tried to pull it through (rear to front) it got hung up in the chainstay. I was using the supplied cable guide, a park tool cable routing kit, lawn trimmer string and shifter cable. All those methods failed because the thinner guide/cable/string will follow a thinner route thru the chainstay so the fatter connector for the power cord will get hung up. I finally routed some shifter cable housing (4mm) from the front hole to the rear. I then taped the power cord connector to the cable housing and pulled it back thru to the front. The thicker cable housing will follow a path that the connector can fit thru.

Getting the shifter cable housing thru initially was not easy either but if you keep fishing, you will get it to a point where you can see the end of the cable thru the rear hole. When you get it that far, you can use a small pick (maybe a tooth pick or dental pick) to fit into the cable end and guide it thru to rear hole.
Thank you for the response! I eventually followed a similar technique and finally got it! Took lots of patience for sure😂
 
Back to the bike….

How many mm’s of stem spacers did you guys put under your stem?
 
On the AXS cable saga: @Madog gave perfect advice.
I worked on this before any of this was posted, and used the wrong technique, and ended up with a stuck cord in my chain stay. For a moment I thought it would never come out, and that I would have to live with a clogged chain stay forever. By the time I got it out, it was pinched and non-functional. So be careful!
 
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Back to the bike….

How many mm’s of stem spacers did you guys put under your stem?
I have 22.5mm under mine. I just saw this video last night and went straight in the garage. Sure enough, it was bang on for me. I guess thats why I felt instantly comfortable on this bike. One of the reasons anyway.

Clip from youtube:

 
I’m 5’6 with 29 or 30 inseam. I tried to do the math the best I could and it seemed like a 180 fully slammed might be right on the edge of being too high for me. I wondered if I ran a super low profile seat like an sq lab 611 it might fit perfectly
Hey Nick, I'm the same height as you and am concerned about the the RH2 size being a little bigger than I'm accustomed to. Are you riding your's already? How do you like the size? Did you change the dropout or go -5 on the headset? Standover is fine? Thanks in advance!
 
So did my second ride today. 3 laps of the Luge in OC. I decided to put the hammer down to see what it could do. It’s just crazy good. I ended up with 5% battery left and it slowed considerably on the 3rd lap. Probably thermal overload. So I put it in auto once that happened. Still awesome ride. The bike was really really good. 49 achievements and 12 KOM’s!
My Strava ride
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So did my second ride today. 3 laps of the Luge in OC. I decided to put the hammer down to see what it could do. It’s just crazy good. I ended up with 5% battery left and it slowed considerably on the 3rd lap. Probably thermal overload. So I put it in auto once that happened. Still awesome ride. The bike was really really good. 49 achievements and 11 KOM’s!
My Strava ride
Once below 10%ish the best assist you'll get is auto no matter what mode you set it in.

Luge has been on my to do list. When does it get unridable hot out there?
 
So did my second ride today. 3 laps of the Luge in OC. I decided to put the hammer down to see what it could do. It’s just crazy good. I ended up with 5% battery left and it slowed considerably on the 3rd lap. Probably thermal overload. So I put it in auto once that happened. Still awesome ride. The bike was really really good. 49 achievements and 12 KOM’s!
My Strava ride
View attachment 183297
View attachment 183298

View attachment 183301
View attachment 183304
Damn you're ripping! nice times!
 
Once below 10%ish the best assist you'll get is auto no matter what mode you set it in.

Luge has been on my to do list. When does it get unridable hot out there?
It’s always rideable, but best conditions are like 2 days after a rain. Otherwise even on the hot days, just get an early start and you’ll be good. 👍🏼
 
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Damn you're ripping! nice times!
Thanks brother! I figured I might have a couple good ones, but I had no idea it would be 12! The bike just rips though!
 
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Three rides on the rig, and it rips. Top 5 Strava cups on classic DHs here in Marin... shaving off 40 seconds from my previous best times on 7 minute runs. Absolutely awesome bike! So happy!
 
I have 22.5mm under mine. I just saw this video last night and went straight in the garage. Sure enough, it was bang on for me. I guess thats why I felt instantly comfortable on this bike. One of the reasons anyway.

Clip from youtube:

Dang I need to buy two two steps…
 
Be careful when trying to get the sim slot cover off the display. They use locktite and those screws are tiny. One of mine just won’t budge and I stripped the head. So pissed. Gonna take it to a mobile phone repair place and see if they can extract the screw.


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