Crestline RS 181.2 thread – builds, reviews, technical info

Lfhao said:
If I run AXS derailleur and wired dropper, can I have dropper cabel and brake line both go through the downtube? size RH-2
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RH2 downtube has 2 guide tubes…. The one on the right has the display wire and I ran the brake hose in the left one. The guide tube is like the size of a straw so it won’t fit a dropper housing with the other hoses already inside so I ran it to the right side of the right guide tube.

IMG_7068.webp
 
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Lfhao said:
If I run AXS derailleur and wired dropper, can I have dropper cabel and brake line both go through the downtube? size RH-2
Click to expand...
You apparently can, but it will be a pain in the ass to get your battery in or out. It’s best to put the display and dropper cables through the downtube and the brake cable through the top tube. The AXS cable obviously plugs into the motor.
 
Wah said:
RH2 downtube has 2 guide tubes…. The one on the right has the display wire and I ran the brake hose in the left one. The guide tube is like the size of a straw so it won’t fit a dropper housing with the other hoses already inside so I ran it to the right side of the right guide tube.

View attachment 182797
Click to expand...
Here’s another pic of the RH2 tubes

IMG_2916.webp


IMG_2915.webp
 
A few replies after reading a bunch of this thread:

I think some of the spare parts are actually motor spacers. Their ID matches that bolt, it appears. The thing that looks like a chain ring bolt goes with the chain guide.

I saw someone was asking about routing wires and housing. There are two tube in tube guides running up through the top tube to the controller.

I too don’t get any boost!

I want to run a light for emergencies. Does it plug into the extra wire on the bottom of the controller?

Stoked on the new ride! Hope to get out Friday!
 
bikedrd said:
A few replies after reading a bunch of this thread:

I think some of the spare parts are actually motor spacers. Their ID matches that bolt, it appears. The thing that looks like a chain ring bolt goes with the chain guide.

I saw someone was asking about routing wires and housing. There are two tube in tube guides running up through the top tube to the controller.

I too don’t get any boost!

I want to run a light for emergencies. Does it plug into the extra wire on the bottom of the controller?

Stoked on the new ride! Hope to get out Friday!
Click to expand...
Where does the small bolt go with the chain guide?
 
Question: when I took out the front motor mount bolt, a locking washer fell on the ground. There was another one on the head of the bolt. Were both washers stacked on each other at the head of the bolt before putting it back in? Seems like the only reasonable place for it to have come from.


Anyone with an 800wh battery cover the hole in the downtube with anything?
 
Wah said:
Question: when I took out the front motor mount bolt, a locking washer fell on the ground. There was another one on the head of the bolt. Were both washers stacked on each other at the head of the bolt before putting it back in? Seems like the only reasonable place for it to have come from.


Anyone with an 800wh battery cover the hole in the downtube with anything?
Click to expand...
Your intuition is correct, as both washers go on at the head of the bolt.

I didnt cover the extra hole in the downtube, but I am thinking about putting tape or something over the hole above the motor, under the shock. I got a quarter sized rock up in there yesterday and was able to get it out before it fell down into the motor area.
 
FrogSkunk said:
Your intuition is correct, as both washers go on at the head of the bolt.

I didnt cover the extra hole in the downtube, but I am thinking about putting tape or something over the hole above the motor, under the shock. I got a quarter sized rock up in there yesterday and was able to get it out before it fell down into the motor area.
Click to expand...
Which hole in frame yo covering with tape?
 
Wah said:
Question: when I took out the front motor mount bolt, a locking washer fell on the ground. There was another one on the head of the bolt. Were both washers stacked on each other at the head of the bolt before putting it back in? Seems like the only reasonable place for it to have come from.


Anyone with an 800wh battery cover the hole in the downtube with anything?
Click to expand...

Both washers go on the bolt. Note the orientation , the longer ramps on the washers should be touching inside. The finer teeth go to the outsides.


1776948041547.webp
 
FWIW I've been riding an m1 druid for months and the boost function hits hard in any setting and with any cadence. What everyone is describing sounds unusual and totally inconsistent with my experience over the last 5 months. The only setting m1 has is duration of boost.

That being said, when I first began riding the m1 I quickly learned that pressing the boost button would drop the mode to a less powerful setting when I was actually trying to engage boost. Anyone who's ridden this system quickly learns the button must be held for a moment to access the boost. I'm stating the obvious to many but on your first ride you could easily experience that abrupt loss of power that is being described.
 
Lfhao said:
If I run AXS derailleur and wired dropper, can I have dropper cabel and brake line both go through the downtube? size RH-2
Click to expand...
I have to mention, I ran the dropper housing like I stated in my other post... alongside the right side guide tube. Last night I was trying to slide it up the seat tube to start installing the dropper, and realized that it is a real big pain in the ass to get the housing to slide in either direction. This will be a problem when taking the dropper out. I might see if I can relocate the display wire to one of the top tube guide tubes and run the dropper housing through the now empty right side downtube guide tube.

Or just use a reverb AXS which I was trying to avoid.
 
Wah said:
I have to mention, I ran the dropper housing like I stated in my other post... alongside the right side guide tube. Last night I was trying to slide it up the seat tube to start installing the dropper, and realized that it is a real big pain in the ass to get the housing to slide in either direction. This will be a problem when taking the dropper out. I might see if I can relocate the display wire to one of the top tube guide tubes and run the dropper housing through the now empty right side downtube guide tube.

Or just use a reverb AXS which I was trying to avoid.
Click to expand...
I ran my dropper cable through the left guide post, then the brake cable in the right hand battery groove next to the guide tube. This let's me work with the dropper and adjust or remove it as I have done a couple times already.

20260417_143618.webp


Going back or if I ever want to try a back up battery I would probably try to fish the brake up the seat post and through the top tube, but this way keeps all the weight down low for improved handling!

Battery swapping seems to be more of a forgotten dream as we learn about the frame details... maybe some folks are out there swapping left and right, what do I know?!
 
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E-NUB said:
I ran my dropper cable through the left guide post, then the brake cable in the right hand battery groove next to the guide tube. This let's me work with the dropper and adjust or remove it as I have done a couple times already.

View attachment 182830

Going back or if I ever want to try a back up battery I would probably try to fish the brake up the seat post and through the top tube, but this way keeps all the weight down low for improved handling!

Battery swapping seems to be more of a forgotten dream as we learn about the frame details... maybe some folks are out there swapping left and right, what do I know?!
Click to expand...
Why not run the display wire thru the top tube instead of the brake line?

And yes, taking the battery out of this bike is a total pain in the ass. Nothing like my canyon where I can just flip the bike over, take the motor cover off and pull on nylon strap at the end of the battery as it slides out easily along the battery rails.
 
Anyone have a 29” dropout they want to sell? I’m in California. Figured someone changed out their stock dropout and it’s just going to collect dust. Reply or DM me if that’s the case.
 
Hardback said:
FWIW I've been riding an m1 druid for months and the boost function hits hard in any setting and with any cadence. What everyone is describing sounds unusual and totally inconsistent with my experience over the last 5 months. The only setting m1 has is duration of boost.

That being said, when I first began riding the m1 I quickly learned that pressing the boost button would drop the mode to a less powerful setting when I was actually trying to engage boost. Anyone who's ridden this system quickly learns the button must be held for a moment to access the boost. I'm stating the obvious to many but on your first ride you could easily experience that abrupt loss of power that is being described.
Click to expand...

I see the countdown and the animation on the screen but alas no power. Part of me wonders if this doesn't work for the first 100mi for break in or something, I only have 30mi so far. No doubt in my mind this software related, everything else works as expected.
 
PhoS said:
I see the countdown and the animation on the screen but alas no power. Part of me wonders if this doesn't work for the first 100mi for break in or something, I only have 30mi so far. No doubt in my mind this software related, everything else works as expected.
Click to expand...
Also is it to do with having the new 700wh battery installed?
 
Wah said:
Why not run the display wire thru the top tube instead of the brake line?

And yes, taking the battery out of this bike is a total pain in the ass. Nothing like my canyon where I can just flip the bike over, take the motor cover off and pull on nylon strap at the end of the battery as it slides out easily along the battery rails.
Click to expand...
Similar setup but I like your thought, the display wire may be a bit easier to fish through the top tube, hopefully it's long enough!

At this point I am leaving it as is unless there is an issue or if I ever get a backup battery.

Agreed, a drawstring/strap/handle would be needed for any battery swapping to remove and help align the mounting holes when installing. I tried to pull the battery out with my fingernails and it didnt work!
 
jej737 said:
View attachment 1821739 clicks out, looks tight, anyone have any problems? Not sure max clicks
Click to expand...
Is this rebound knob hitting the frame only an issue in short travel setting? I'm in long travel and it seems good to go the way it is but don't want to find out the hard way. I want to leave it in for my first few rides at least as I dial in the suspension.

IMG_3740.webp


IMG_3738.webp


IMG_3739.webp
 
Mike54 said:
Also is it to do with having the new 700wh battery installed?
Click to expand...

Doesn't matter it would still boost from Eco to Eco+ , etc to 130nm with the other batteries as described in the screenshot above. I don't feel any increase in power at all, totally the opposite actually.
 
E-NUB said:
Similar setup but I like your thought, the display wire may be a bit easier to fish through the top tube, hopefully it's long enough!

At this point I am leaving it as is unless there is an issue or if I ever get a backup battery.

Agreed, a drawstring/strap/handle would be needed for any battery swapping to remove and help align the mounting holes when installing. I tried to pull the battery out with my fingernails and it didnt work!
Click to expand...
Ahhh right might not be long enough. I'll let you know tonight if I get around to trying it. I have to check my motor mount washers anyway.
 
PhoS said:
Doesn't matter it would still boost from Eco to Eco+ , etc to 130nm, as described in the screenshot above. I don't feel any increase in power at all, totally the opposite actually.
Click to expand...
Its strange!!
 
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