What did you do to your EBike this week?

FrogSkunk said:
They do.
Looks like Nick at Nobl built these up for me. Got a great deal from Tim.likes.bikes and couldnt resist. Hope I like the feel, but can say they do feel noticeably lighter in my hands.

I have another set of TR37’s with Vespers, but with Sapim D-light spokes. Im going to run the two sets back to back over a long weekend trip, and see if I can notice a difference. Apparently, they are more compliant. View attachment 181118
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I had considered lacing Berd spokes on a new wheel set a while ago. I wasn’t too worried about weight at the time, mostly how they fastened to the hub. Some hubs with a hook method are now available.

Hub type, wheel type, 2 cross or 3 cross, are all critical for sizing. The assembly process looked complicated so I didn’t get them.
 
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Amber Valley Guy said:
I have Hope Forteus on my bike and an e-Mazza (2.4) on the front, great tyre. I've never run an e-Mazza on the rear though as I use Michelin e-Wilds (2.6) as they're cheap, and work well for what I ride so I never got around to trying something else, as I buy 2 at a time.
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I can't get a Mazza race front tyre on my new Fortus rim ,back was ok. May try and heat it. See wilds cheap just now .
 
Just gan said:
I can't get a Mazza race front tyre on my new Fortus rim ,back was ok. May try and heat it. See wilds cheap just now .
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Leave it out in the sun for a bit, then when you're fitting it cover the bead and rim in soapy water. If it's just the last bit of bead you're fighting to get over the rim make sure the rest of the bead on both sides is sitting the middle of the rim to give you as much slack as possible. Also try the resting it on a bin method (lay wheel flat over a round dustbin so you can leverage you're full weight over it).

Failing that, get one of these and show it who's boss ;)

www.bikeparts.co.uk

IceToolz DH Tyre Lever for Aluminium or Carbon Rims

Screw type downhill tyre lever works for even the most stubborn bicycle tyres. Cr-V steel parts covered by durable Nylon propvides extra protection when used on Alu & Carbon rims
www.bikeparts.co.uk www.bikeparts.co.uk
 
MeatBike said:
Leave it out in the sun for a bit, then when you're fitting it cover the bead and rim in soapy water. If it's just the last bit of bead you're fighting to get over the rim make sure the rest of the bead on both sides is sitting the middle of the rim to give you as much slack as possible. Also try the resting it on a bin method (lay wheel flat over a round dustbin so you can leverage you're full weight over it).

Failing that, get one of these and show it who's boss ;)

www.bikeparts.co.uk

IceToolz DH Tyre Lever for Aluminium or Carbon Rims

Screw type downhill tyre lever works for even the most stubborn bicycle tyres. Cr-V steel parts covered by durable Nylon propvides extra protection when used on Alu & Carbon rims
www.bikeparts.co.uk www.bikeparts.co.uk
tried all that
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Tried all that on Monday it was sunny and lots of soapy water no joy. There was about a 12 inches still to go on and bar tight had tie wrap on to hold other side but still coming off. Try gentle heat gun today . It came off the roval wheel and put it back on yesterday no problem . Selling Mitchellin wilds 29 poun in Edinburgh Coop I seen. Tyre is a Tyre to me . But it could be a chew 🤔 too.
 
Just gan said:
Tried all that on Monday it was sunny and lots of soapy water no joy. There was about a 12 inches still to go on and bar tight had tie wrap on to hold other side but still coming off. Try gentle heat gun today . It came off the roval wheel and put it back on yesterday no problem . Selling Mitchellin wilds 29 poun in Edinburgh Coop I seen. Tyre is a Tyre to me . But it could be a chew 🤔 too.
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Keep at it, you'll get it on eventually.

When I was fitting the Hans Dampfs to my Trek I had to put zip ties through every 2nd spoke gap all the way round to there the troublesome length of bead was, with double tie wraps either side so it didn't pop off.

The Ice Toolz DH lever does make light work of it though (I leant mine to a mate years ago and never got it back, so really should order another).
 
MeatBike said:
Keep at it, you'll get it on eventually.

When I was fitting the Hans Dampfs to my Trek I had to put zip ties through every 2nd spoke gap all the way round to there the troublesome length of bead was, with double tie wraps either side so it didn't pop off.

The Ice Toolz DH lever does make light work of it though (I leant mine to a mate years ago and never got it back, so really should order another).
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I'm a tube man as well so probably doesn't help. The plastic lever was breaking the ice tool with rubber on the end was good but rubber long gone. Heat gun I think
 
Just gan said:
I'm a tube man as well
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giphy.gif
 
Just gan said:
Beginning to rethink that one i must admit. 2012 I binned tubeless after the walk of shame back down on gondala at Anoch Mor. Liked your quip about putting tyre in sun , your thinking on those Arizona boys maybe.
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Sunny in Aberdeen right now... people in Torry will hae their taps aff and the BBQ oot this aefternoon nae doot.

Some tyre and rim combos are just a pain in the arse. Worst for me were Schwalbe UST tyres and Mavic UST rims, which is funny as they were designed for each other!
 
Just gan said:
I'm a tube man as well so probably doesn't help. The plastic lever was breaking the ice tool with rubber on the end was good but rubber long gone. Heat gun I think
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I have used my foot with some success in this situation, wheel on a blanket, suitable trainers on and stand on the tyre where it hasn't seated
 
MeatBike said:
Sunny in Aberdeen right now... people in Torry will hae their taps aff and the BBQ oot this aefternoon nae doot.

Some tyre and rim combos are just a pain in the arse. Worst for me were Schwalbe UST tyres and Mavic UST rims, which is funny as they were designed for each other!
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It's on strangely not too much effort. New tube in which was flat as it came out of box. Pushed it to top of tyre . Stood on bottom off tyre and stretched it thought of spending more money going tubeless gave me super human strength. Maybe 25 miles at Glenlivet yesterday on other wheel softened it. We will never know.
 
BikeBert said:
It's less what I did to my bike and more what my bike did to me 😉

Levo Brose 2.2 motor failed:

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.
youtube.com youtube.com

Sent for inspection and repair.🤞
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Familiar noise that I remember it well.
 
I put on the summer tires. Last year's Magic Mary(red stripe) front, a new Nobby Nic (blue) on the rear. Tubless, using Fillmore valves of different lengths, as I have the Bosch Rim magnet. Last year, I used Fillmore on the front only, and a tube at the rear. When I tried to fit the rear, I realized that it was too short. Off to the dealer (on the net) again, then...

One problem arose: I could't measure the pressure with my digital BBB pressure gauge. It doesn't seem to reach the Fillmore valve's stem. No air escapes, hence no pressure is measured. I believe I need a new pressure gauge.

The Topeak Shuttle Gauge Digital seems nice, but pricey. Any other suggestions, preferrably tested with Fillmore valves?
 
Swapped a worn Shimano chain for a KMC. Bike now skipping under load in a couple of higher gears. Probably a worn cassette but I know from experience Shimano can be sensitive with KMC so ordered a Shimano chain & if that cures it, I'll keep the KMC for my analogue & if not, then new cassette time.
 
RustyMTB said:
Swapped a worn Shimano chain for a KMC. Bike now skipping under load in a couple of higher gears. Probably a worn cassette but I know from experience Shimano can be sensitive with KMC so ordered a Shimano chain & if that cures it, I'll keep the KMC for my analogue & if not, then new cassette time.
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If anyone is curious, a new Shimano chain fixed the skipping, so imo KMC's claim that their chains are cross compatible seem off in the context that I tried the chain across two different wheels with cassettes worn to different levels & it didn't work well on either.
 
Some new stuff for us :
  • Schwalbe Magic Mary Radial Ultra soft tyre - running it on the front and has so much more grip and confidence over the Maxxis DHF I ran previously.
  • Two new spare batteries, a 750Wh for me and 625Wh for my son.
  • An AllPowers R1500 Portable Power station. With this and the spare batteries we can run all day in Turbo mode if we wish.
    It also allows me to tow my son up on his DH bike (Marin Quake), at the smaller bike parks - Fly Up, Windhill, Forest of Dean etc... for all day sessions too.
 
Bled the rear brake (XT) as it was getting spongy. No air bubbles came out and it felt great on the stand, but still spongy and lacking any real power going up and down my street. Re-did the bleed but this time pushed almost about 2/3rds of a syringe of mineral oil through the caliper (first time used about a third of a syringe), again no bubbles... then a dark patch of mineral oil made it's way into the cup on the lever. Looks like it needed a full flush as I guess the first syringe didn't push the dirty oil through enough. Anyway, it's all good, in fact it's way better than it's ever been tbh, so next time I'll just flush the system instead of trying to just bleed air out (as it could be water/dirt ingress and not air causing the sponginess).
 
Amber Valley Guy said:
Bled the rear brake (XT) as it was getting spongy. No air bubbles came out and it felt great on the stand, but still spongy and lacking any real power going up and down my street. Re-did the bleed but this time pushed almost about 2/3rds of a syringe of mineral oil through the caliper (first time used about a third of a syringe), again no bubbles... then a dark patch of mineral oil made it's way into the cup on the lever. Looks like it needed a full flush as I guess the first syringe didn't push the dirty oil through enough. Anyway, it's all good, in fact it's way better than it's ever been tbh, so next time I'll just flush the system instead of trying to just bleed air out (as it could be water/dirt ingress and not air causing the sponginess).
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Good post and info - reminds me that have got to do ours (M6120 calipers). (y)
 
irie said:
This afternoon took both our January 2022 alloy Rails to @Bearing Man salubrious eBike Motor Centre to get the Bosch Gen 4 non-smart motors overhauled (last overhauls were August 2024). Nothing wrong with the motors, simply preventive maintenance.
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Sorry I missed you yesterday Irie, give me a shout when you pick your bikes up (y)
 
Lower fork service (Lyrik) today...how does a few ml of fork oil make such a bloody mess on the garage floor (my fault as I accidentally knocked the small container I'd put to catch the oil out of the way)....and don't get me started on the tiny hose clamp bolt made of chocolate and a what appears to be a watchmakers thread! Anyone else had problems with that tiny through bolt on the hose clamp?

IMG_20260417_141013.webp
 
Amber Valley Guy said:
Lower fork service (Lyrik) today...how does a few ml of fork oil make such a bloody mess on the garage floor (my fault as I accidentally knocked the small container I'd put to catch the oil out of the way)....and don't get me started on the tiny hose clamp bolt made of chocolate and a what appears to be a watchmakers thread! Anyone else had problems with that tiny through bolt on the hose clamp?

View attachment 182174
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Come on now they are trying keep the weight down you know that.
 
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