Dji avinox- Amflow - Discussion

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Anyone had an issue with their motor after clipping a pedal?

I caught a pedal while out riding yesterday which initially stopped the assistance while pedalling but it would still auto shift and walk mode was still working so not a specific motor issue. It wasn’t the hardest pedal strike but did jolt the bike.

I’ve reset the bike from the on/off button and done the available update which has helped but it’s still throwing an intermittent fault which then clears on its own.
 

Interesting to see the battery pack out of the frame, they’re using some good 21700 LG cells there.

Does this assembly slip into some other kind of outer casing before going into the frame? Or does it slide into the frame as is?

Asking as it doesn’t look to be protected against moisture ingress, is the area where it sits in the frame weather sealed?
 
So I pulled the trigger on an PL Pro and will be swapping out the wheelset when it arrives (I have a spare DT 350/NOBL wheelset that I plan to use).
The carbon rims seem quite good quality. So I replaced the front hub, nipples and spokes and kept the rim. The rim was 28H so I got the matching hub. I used J type spokes. Just so much easier to source and replace.

I would have done the same with the rear rim. But I wanted to mullet it. So after too and fro-ing about carbon or alloy rear rim. I chose a Raceface 32H 27.5 alloy rim. Fitted a Koozer 490 hub. But didn't like the alloy axel. So I fitted a Koozer 350 hub with chrome moly axle and ratchet freehub. Didn't like the ratchet. So I discovered that Koozer make a 490 Pro version with chrome moly axle and a pawl freehub.

So after 4 different hubs. I'm finally happy with my wheelset. And even though I'm running different materials and brands of rims, front and back. I fitted matching decals, so you'd never know.

I also swapped to Tanwall light casing tyres, after liking the Tanwalls on the Velduro. . Assegai front and DHR 2 rear. I think I'm happy with the final package.

1762086413599.png
 
The carbon rims seem quite good quality. So I replaced the front hub, nipples and spokes and kept the rim. The rim was 28H so I got the matching hub. I used J type spokes. Just so much easier to source and replace.

I would have done the same with the rear rim. But I wanted to mullet it. So after too and fro-ing about carbon or alloy rear rim. I chose a Raceface 32H 27.5 alloy rim. Fitted a Koozer 490 hub. But didn't like the alloy axel. So I fitted a Koozer 350 hub with chrome moly axle and ratchet freehub. Didn't like the ratchet. So I discovered that Koozer make a 490 Pro version with chrome moly axle and a pawl freehub.

So after 4 different hubs. I'm finally happy with my wheelset. And even though I'm running different materials and brands of rims, front and back. I fitted matching decals, so you'd never know.

I also swapped to Tanwall light casing tyres, after liking the Tanwalls on the Velduro. . Assegai front and DHR 2 rear. I think I'm happy with the final package.

View attachment 170520

So you put Enve stickers on the OEM rims?
 
So after 4 different hubs. I'm finally happy with my wheelset. And even though I'm running different materials and brands of rims, front and back. I fitted matching decals, so you'd never know
...but, We know! Also no gold rims, just decals? I'm pretty disappointed...
 
So you put Enve stickers on the OEM rims?
It's not actually the ENVE logo. It's similar to half that has been elongated. You cannot even join two to try and nearly form the Logo, because they are all the same shape, and would need to be opposites to join them. So they really are just gold decals that look similar to ENVE.

ENVE decal.
1762240843785.png


These decals.
1762240890868.png
 
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...but, We know! Also no gold rims, just decals? I'm pretty disappointed...
My friends nicknamed me after an Australian Fashion designer, because I take graphic details to the extreme.

Each layer must contrast the previous layer ........ So .......

The tyre tread is black. Then the tyre walls are tan. Then the rims are black. So a top black rim gap to the gold rim decal. Then a bottom black rim gap to the gold nipples. Then the spokes are black. Then the hub is gold.

Every layer planned. Every layer correct. Is it OCD. Maybe. :ROFLMAO:

1762242133658.png
 
I need to drop the motor/drive unit to remove the dropper cable. The videos I've seen claim that the cranks and spider need to be removed to do this, but looking at the bike, it seems that the motor mount bolts are fully accessible with the cranks and chainring/spider still on. And actually, I think that *removing* the dropper cable (inner and housing) won't require dropping the drive unit at all - just loosening the cable guide bolts.

Can anyone provide any insight?
 
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I need to drop the motor/drive unit to remove the dropper cable. The videos I've seen claim that the cranks and spider need to be removed to do this, but looking at the bike, it seems that the motor mount bolts are fully accessible with the cranks and chainring/spider still on. And actually, I think that *removing* the dropper cable (inner and housing) won't require dropping the drive unit at all - just loosening the cable guide bolts.

Can anyone provide any insight?
I've dropped my motor without removing cranks and chainring.
 
I need to drop the motor/drive unit to remove the dropper cable. The videos I've seen claim that the cranks and spider need to be removed to do this, but looking at the bike, it seems that the motor mount bolts are fully accessible with the cranks and chainring/spider still on. And actually, I think that *removing* the dropper cable (inner and housing) won't require dropping the drive unit at all - just loosening the cable guide bolts.

Can anyone provide any insight?

You can just do the two motor bolts.

I'd advise turning it upside down tho, so it doesn't hang on the cables.

I removed the dropper cable by disconnecting the lever end, loosen the two bolts on the downtune, remove post and let the cable come with it. (Replaced with AXS B1)

I did drop the motor to plug in the the X0 cable, but not dropper removal.
 
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Probably worth taking the cranks off. It’s just an 8mm Allen key. They just wind themselves off. The chainring needs a park tool lrt-3 tool or similar but it’s fine if you leave it on to be honest.

The motor drops out buy removing the 2 through bolts. It’s an easy enough job.
 
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Hey. Not sure if it has been posted. But Amflow have updated the spare parts on the website. And you can now buy a spare battery. I'm tempted to get the 600Wh battery, as I'm rarely using more than half my 800Wh battery on most rides.

So I could fit the 600Wh, and drop another kilo of weight, taking the bike to 19kgs for most of my rides. Then fit the 800Wh for my adventure trips. Perhaps even bring the extra battery and exchange batteries if needed. I reckon I could swap them in about 15 mins. Motor removal is pretty easy.

Prices are AUD$

1762300291536.png
 
Hey. Not sure if it has been posted. But Amflow have updated the spare parts on the website. And you can now buy a spare battery. I'm tempted to get the 600Wh battery, as I'm rarely using more than half my 800Wh battery on most rides.

So I could fit the 600Wh, and drop another kilo of weight, taking the bike to 19kgs for most of my rides. Then fit the 800Wh for my adventure trips. Perhaps even bring the extra battery and exchange batteries if needed. I reckon I could swap them in about 15 mins. Motor removal is pretty easy.

Prices are AUD$

View attachment 170607
I don't yet see the links on the US sites?
 
I'm very pleased with the spares pricing too. AUD$39 for a headset kit is nice. AUD$59 for the spider kit is so cheap. It includes the removal tool, and I paid $45 for just the tool at a 3rd Party site.

I have bent a spider arm, and just straightened it. It's not perfect though. If I didn't already have the tool. I would be purchasing for sure.

1762306097361.png
1762306220950.png
 
My bike arrived at my bike shopt today but not the extra speed sensor I ordered.
AUD$59 for the whole kit. Include the speed ring. Considering SRAM are charging more than twice that for the derailleur cable. It's crazy. As it's just a cable with a higo connector.

1762306602237.png
 
My dealer quoted $20 US for the speed sensor by itself which for what it is, is a lot, but in the bike world not bad. My buddy has an Amflow and I think was able to get one from the same dealer. Alas, the chainring tool is not available but at least Wheels Mfg is going to be offering on but $42 for chunk of Aluminum with simple CNC machining is a lot.
 
I read further up that the XXL version either never got made or no longer is getting made. Is there any info why that is the case? It's a shame for tall folks like me.
 
The Amflow performs well. My mate who used to race downhill runs a Norco. I did lend him my Amflow and he did like it.

But everyone who I have lent it to agrees with what these two reviewers commented on. The Amflow is just so playful, and brilliant for getting air. It just pops off anything with little effort.

 
You can just do the two motor bolts.

I'd advise turning it upside down tho, so it doesn't hang on the cables.

I removed the dropper cable by disconnecting the lever end, loosen the two bolts on the downtune, remove post and let the cable come with it. (Replaced with AXS B1)

I did drop the motor to plug in the the X0 cable, but not dropper removal.

FYI I was able to remove the dropper cable and housing simply by loosening the three bolts on the downtube that hold the cable guide. It pulled right out.

I f*cking love this bike. Wow. Handles sooooo much better than my Pivot Shuttle or Levo (Gen 3 S Works) did.
 
The Amflow performs well. My mate who used to race downhill runs a Norco. I did lend him my Amflow and he did like it.

But everyone who I have lent it to agrees with what these two reviewers commented on. The Amflow is just so playful, and brilliant for getting air. It just pops off anything with little effort.


...and it really handles tight, fast corners better than any eMTB I've ridden.
 
...and it really handles tight, fast corners better than any eMTB I've ridden.
I was spoiled with My Canyon. It almost outhandles my PL Pro. It has a lower center of gravity and was a mullet from the factory so i carves really well.

Once I put the 27.5 on the pro, it really helped the Amflow, but the kicker is, the Canyon always has peddle strikes, so the great handling came with a price. On this bike there is no price, and peddle strikes are rare.

Awesome machine
 
Can confirm in the UK on the Amflow website, you can buy pretty much any part of the Avinox system, including the 600w battery.
 
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